Moon Coastal Carolinas

by Jim Morekis

  beach at Hilton Head

  Fishing and Boating

  As you’d expect, anglers and boaters love the Hilton Head-Bluffton area, which offers all kinds of saltwater, freshwater, and fly-fishing opportunities. Captain Brian Vaughn runs Off the Hook Charters (68 Helmsman Way, 843/298-4376, www.offthehookcharters.com), which offers fully licensed half-day trips ($400). Miss Carolina Sportfishing (168 Palmetto Bay Rd., 843/298-2628, www.misscarolinafishing.com) offers deep-sea action at a little over $100 per hour. Captain Dave Fleming of Mighty Mako Sport Fishing Charters (164 Palmetto Bay Rd., 843/785-6028, www.mightymako.com) can take you saltwater fishing, both backwater and near-shore, on the 25-foot Mighty Mako for about $400 for a half day. If you’re at the South Beach Marina area of Sea Pines Plantation, head into Blue Water Bait and Tackle (843/671-3060) and see if they can hook you up with a trip.

  Public landings in the Hilton Head area include the Marshland Road Boat Landing and the Broad Creek Boat Ramp under the Charles Fraser Bridge, and the Haigh Landing on Mackay Creek.

  Hiking and Biking

  Although the very flat terrain is not challenging, Hilton Head provides some scenic and relaxing cycling opportunities. Thanks to wise planning and foresight, the island has an extensive and award-winning 50-mile network of biking trails that does a great job of keeping cyclists out of traffic. A big plus is the long bike path paralleling the William Hilton Parkway, enabling cyclists to use that key artery without braving its traffic. There is even an underground bike path beneath the parkway to facilitate crossing that busy road. In addition, there are routes along Pope Avenue as well as North and South Forest Beach Drive. Go to www.hiltonheadisland.org/biking to download a map of the island’s entire bike path network.

  one of Hilton Head’s biking trails

  Palmetto Dunes Oceanfront Resort (4 Queens Folly Rd., 800/827-3006, www.palmettodunes.com) has a particularly nice 25-mile network of bike paths that all link up to the island’s larger framework. Within the resort is Palmetto Dunes Outfitters (843/785-2449, www.pdoutfitters.com, daily 9am-5pm), which will rent you any type of bike you might need. Sea Pines Plantation also has an extensive 17-mile network of bike trails; you can pick up a map at most information kiosks within the plantation.

  But the best bike path on Hilton Head is the simplest of all, and where no one will ask you where you’re staying that night: the beach. For a few hours before and after low tide, the beach effectively becomes a 12-mile bike path around most of the island, and a pleasant morning or afternoon ride may well prove to be the highlight of your trip.

  There’s a plethora of bike rental facilities on Hilton Head with competitive rates. Be sure to ask if they offer free pickup and delivery. Try Hilton Head Bicycle Company (112 Arrow Rd., 843/686-6888, daily 9am-5pm, $16/day).

  Hikers will particularly enjoy Pinckney Island National Wildlife Refuge, which takes you through several key Lowcountry ecosystems, from maritime forest to salt marsh. Other peaceful, if nonchallenging, trails are at the Audubon-Newhall Preserve.

  Horseback Riding

  Within the Sea Pines Forest Preserve is Lawton Stables (190 Greenwood Dr., 843/671-2586, www.lawtonstableshhi.com), which features pony rides, a small-animal farm, and guided horseback rides through the preserve. You don’t need any riding experience, but you do need reservations.

  Bird-Watching

  The premier birding locale in the area is the Pinckney Island National Wildlife Refuge (U.S. 278 east, just before Hilton Head, 912/652-4415, www.fws.gov, daily dawn-dusk, free free). You can see bald eagles, ibis, wood storks, painted buntings, and many more species. Birding is best in spring and fall. The refuge has several freshwater ponds that serve as wading bird rookeries. During migration season, so many beautiful birds make such a ruckus that you’ll think you’ve wandered onto an Animal Planet shoot.

  Golf

  Hilton Head is one of the world’s great golf centers, with no less than 23 courses, and one could easily write a book about nothing but that. This, however, is not that book. Perhaps contrary to what you might expect, most courses on the island are public, and some are downright affordable. All courses are 18 holes unless otherwise described; greens fees are averages and vary with season and tee time.

  The best-regarded course, with prices to match, is Harbour Town Golf Links (Sea Pines Plantation, 843/363-4485, www.seapines.com, $239). It’s on the island’s south end at Sea Pines and is the home of the annual RBC Heritage Classic, far and away the island’s number-one tourist draw.

  There are two Arthur Hills-designed courses on the island, Arthur Hills at Palmetto Dunes Resort (843/785-1140, www.palmettodunes.com, $125) and Arthur Hills at Palmetto Hall (Palmetto Hall Plantation, 843/689-4100, www.palmettohallgolf.com, $130), both of which now offer the use of Segway vehicles on the fairways. The reasonably priced Barony Course at Port Royal Plantation (843/686-8801, www.portroyalgolfclub.com, $98) also boasts some of the toughest greens on the island. Another challenging and affordable course is the George Fazio at Palmetto Dunes Resort (843/785-1130, www.palmettodunes.com, $105).

  Hilton Head National Golf Club (60 Hilton Head National Dr., 843/842-5900, www.golfhiltonheadnational.com), which is actually on the mainland just before you cross the bridge to Hilton Head, is still highly rated for both condition and service, despite recently losing nine holes to a road widening project. Golf Week has named it one of the country’s best golf courses. The 18-hole course is public and greens fees are below $100.

  It’s a good idea to book tee times through the Golf Island Call Center (888/465-3475, www.golfisland.com), which can also hook you up with good packages.

  Tennis

  One of the top tennis destinations in the country, Hilton Head has over 20 tennis clubs, some of which offer court time to the public (walk-on rates vary; call for information). They are: Palmetto Dunes Tennis Center (Palmetto Dunes Resort, 843/785-1152, www.palmettodunes.com, $30/hour), Port Royal Racquet Club (Port Royal Plantation, 843/686-8803, www.portroyalgolfclub.com, $25/hour), Sea Pines Racquet Club (Sea Pines Plantation, 843/363-4495, www.seapines.com, $25/hour), South Beach Racquet Club (Sea Pines Plantation, 843/671-2215, www.seapines.com, $25/hour), and Shipyard Racquet Club (Shipyard Plantation, 843/686-8804, $25/hour).

  Free, first-come, first-served play is available at the following public courts, maintained by the Island Recreation Association (www.islandreccenter.org): Chaplin Community Park (Singleton Beach Rd., 4 courts, lighted), Cordillo Courts (Cordillo Pkwy., 4 courts, lighted), Fairfield Square (Adrianna Ln., 2 courts), Hilton Head High School (School Rd., 6 courts), and Hilton Head Middle School (Wilborn Rd., 4 courts).

  Zipline

  Billing itself as the only zipline experience within 250 miles, the new Zip Line Hilton Head (33 Broad Creek Marina Way, 843/682-6000, www.ziplinehiltonhead.com) offers an extensive canopy tour making great use of the area’s natural scenery and features. You generally “fly” in groups of about eight. Reservations are strongly encouraged. The newest offering is “Aerial Adventure,” a challenging two-hour trip ($50) with about 50 obstacles.

  ACCOMMODATIONS

  Generally speaking, accommodations on Hilton Head are often surprisingly affordable given their overall high quality and the breadth of their amenities.

  Under $150

  You can’t beat the price at Park Lane Hotel and Suites (12 Park Ln., 843/686-5700, www.hiltonheadparklanehotel.com, $130). This is your basic suite-type hotel (formerly a Residence Inn) with kitchens, laundry, a pool, and a tennis court. The allure here is the price, hard to find anywhere these days at a resort location. For a nonrefundable fee, you can bring your pet. The one drawback is that the beach is a good distance away. The hotel does offer a free shuttle, however, so it would be wise to take advantage of that and avoid the usual beach-parking hassles. As you’d expect given the price, rooms here tend to go quickly; reserve early.

  $150-300

  By Hilton Head standards, the S Main Street Inn & Spa (2200 Main St., 800/471-3001, www.mainst
reetinn.com, $160-210) can be considered a bargain stay, and with high quality to boot. With its Old World touches, sumptuous appointments, charming atmosphere, and attentive service, this 33-room inn and attached spa on the grounds of Hilton Head Plantation seems like it would be more at home in Charleston than Hilton Head. The inn serves a great full breakfast—not continental—daily 7:30am-10:30am.

  Another good place for the price is the South Beach Marina Inn (232 S. Sea Pines Dr., 843/671-6498, www.sbinn.com, $186) in Sea Pines. Located near the famous Salty Dog Cafe and outfitted in a similar nautical theme, the inn not only has some pretty large guest rooms for the price, but it also offers a great view of the marina and has a very friendly feel. As with all Sea Pines accommodations, staying on the plantation means you don’t have to wait in line with other visitors to pay the $5-per-day “road fee.” Sea Pines also offers a free trolley to get around the plantation.

  One of Hilton Head’s favorite hotels for beach lovers is The Beach House (1 S. Forest Beach Dr., 855/474-2882, www.beachhousehhi.com, $200), home of the famed Tiki Hut bar on the beach. Staff turnover is less frequent here than at other local accommodations, and while it’s no Ritz-Carlton and occasionally shows signs of wear, it’s a good value in a bustling area of the island.

  One of the better resort-type places for those who prefer the putter and the racquet to the Frisbee and the surfboard is the Inn at Harbour Town (7 Lighthouse Ln., 843/363-8100, www.seapines.com, $199) in Sea Pines. The big draw here is the impeccable service, delivered by a staff of “butlers” in kilts, mostly Europeans who take the venerable trade quite seriously. While it’s not on the beach, you can take advantage of the free Sea Pines Trolley every 20 minutes.

  Recently rated the number-one family resort in the United States by Travel + Leisure, the well-run S Palmetto Dunes Oceanfront Resort (4 Queens Folly Rd., 800/827-3006, www.palmettodunes.com, $150-300) offers something for everybody in terms of lodging. There are small, cozy condos by the beach or larger villas overlooking the golf course and pretty much everything in between. The prices are perhaps disarmingly affordable considering the relative luxury and copious recreational amenities, which include 25 miles of very well done bike trails, 11 miles of kayak and canoe trails, and, of course, three signature links. As with most developments of this type on Hilton Head, most of the condos are privately owned, and therefore each has its own particular set of guidelines and cleaning schedules.

  A little farther down the island you’ll find the Sonesta Resort (130 Shipyard Dr., 843/842-2400, www.sonesta.com/hiltonheadisland, $160-200), which styles itself as Hilton Head’s only green-certified accommodations. The guest rooms are indeed state-of-the-art, and the expansive, shaded grounds near the beach are great for relaxation. No on-site golf here, but immediately adjacent is a well-regarded tennis facility with 20 courts.

  Another good resort-style experience heavy on the golf is on the grounds of the Port Royal Plantation on the island’s north side, The Westin Resort Hilton Head Island (2 Grasslawn Ave., 843/681-4000, www.westin.com/hiltonhead, from $200), which hosts three PGA-caliber links. The beach is also but a short walk away. This AAA four diamond-winning Westin offers a mix of suites and larger villas.

  Vacation Rentals

  Many visitors to Hilton Head choose to rent a home or villa for an extended stay, and there is no scarcity of availability. Try Resort Rentals of Hilton Head (www.hhivacations.com) or Destination Vacation (www.destinationvacationhhi.com).

  FOOD

  Because of the cosmopolitan nature of the population, with so many transplants from the northeastern United States and Europe, there is uniformly high quality in Hilton Head restaurants. And because of another demographic quirk of the area, its large percentage of senior citizens, you can also find some great deals by looking for some of the common “early bird” dinner specials, usually starting around 5pm.

  Breakfast and Brunch

  There are a couple of great diner-style places on the island. Though known more for its hamburgers and Philly cheesesteaks, Harold’s Diner (641 William Hilton Pkwy., 843/842-9292, Mon.-Sat. 7am-3pm, $4-6) has great pancakes as well as its trademark brand of sarcastic service. Unpretentious and authentic in a place where those two adjectives are rarely used, it has been said of Harold’s that “the lack of atmosphere is the atmosphere.” The place is small, popular, and does not take reservations.

  If you need a bite in the Coligny Plaza area, go to Skillets (1 N. Forest Beach Dr., 843/785-3131, www.skilletscafe.com, breakfast daily 7am-5pm, dinner daily 5pm-9pm, $5-23). Their eponymous stock-in-trade is a layered breakfast dish of sautéed ingredients served in a porcelain skillet, like the “Kitchen Sink” (pancakes ringed with potatoes, sausage, and bacon, topped with two poached eggs).

  A great all-day breakfast place with a twist is S Signe’s Heaven Bound Bakery & Café (93 Arrow Rd., 843/785-9118, www.signesbakery.com, Mon.-Fri. 8am-4pm, Sat. 9am-2pm, $5-10). Breakfast is tasty dishes like frittatas and breakfast polenta, while the twist is the extensive artisanal bakery, with delicious specialties like the signature key lime pound cake. You’ll be surprised at the quality of the food for the low prices. Expect a wait during peak periods.

  German

  I’m pretty sure you didn’t come all the way to South Carolina to eat traditional German food, but while you’re here . . . check out S Alfred’s (807 William Hilton Pkwy./Hwy. 278, 843/341-3117, www.alfredshiltonhead.com, Mon.-Sat. 5pm-11pm, $20-30), one of the more unique spots on Hilton Head and a big favorite with the locals. Expect a wait. Bratwurst, veal cordon bleu, and, of course, Wiener schnitzel are all standouts. I recommend the German Mix Platter ($25), which features a brat, some sauerbraten, and a schnitzel.

  Mediterranean

  For upscale Italian, try Bistro Mezzaluna (55 New Orleans Rd., 843/842-5011, daily 5pm-9:30pm, $18-25). Known far and wide for its osso buco as well as its impeccable service, there’s also a great little bar for cocktails before or after dinner.

  Middle Eastern

  Hard to describe but well worth the visit, S Daniel’s Restaurant and Lounge (2 N. Forest Beach Dr., 843/341-9379, http://danielshhi.com, daily 4pm-2am, tapas $10-12) combines elements of a traditional Middle Eastern eatery, an upscale tapas place, a beach spot, and a swank bar scene to create one of the more memorable food-and-beverage experiences on the island. Add in the fact that the prices are actually quite accessible and you’ve got a must-visit. Their “big small plates,” meaning larger-portion tapas, run about $10-12 per plate. While they market their Middle Eastern flavor with plates like the cinnamon lamb kebab, their tapas have a cosmopolitan feel; they range from a Caribbean salmon steak to chicken pesto sliders.

  Seafood

  Not to be confused with Charley’s Crab House next door to Hudson’s, seafood lovers will enjoy the experience down near Sea Pines at S Charlie’s L’Etoile Verte (8 New Orleans Rd., 843/785-9277, http://charliesgreenstar.com, lunch Tues.-Sat. 11:30am-2pm, dinner Mon.-Sat. 5:30pm-10pm, $25-40), which is considered by many connoisseurs to be Hilton Head’s single best restaurant. The emphasis here is on “French country kitchen” cuisine—think Provence, not Paris. In keeping with that theme, each day’s menu is concocted from scratch and handwritten. Listen to these recent entrées and feel your mouth water: flounder sauté meunière, grilled wild coho salmon with basil pesto, and breast of duck in a raspberry demi-glace. Get the picture? Of course, you’ll want to start with the escargot and leeks vol-au-vent, the house pâté, or even some pan-roasted Bluffton oysters. Reservations are essential.

  A longtime Hilton Head favorite is Red Fish (8 Archer Rd., 843/686-3388, www.redfishofhiltonhead.com, lunch Mon.-Sat. 11:30am-2pm, dinner daily beginning with early-bird specials at 5pm, $20-37). Strongly Caribbean in decor as well as menu, with romanticism and panache to match, this is a great place for couples. The creative but accessible menu by executive chef Sean Walsh incorporates unique spices, fruits, and vegetables for a fresh, zesty palette. Reservations are essential.

  Fresh seaf
ood lovers will enjoy one of Hilton Head’s staples, the huge Hudson’s on the Docks (1 Hudson Rd., 843/681-2772, www.hudsonsonthedocks.com, lunch daily 11am-4pm, dinner daily from 5pm, $14-23) on Skull Creek just off Squire Pope Road on the less-developed north side. Much of the catch—though not all of it, by any means—comes directly off the boats you’ll see dockside. Try the stuffed shrimp filled with crabmeat. Leave room for one of the homemade desserts crafted by Ms. Bessie, a 30-year veteran employee of Hudson’s.

  INFORMATION AND SERVICES

  The best place to get information on Hilton Head, book a room, or secure a tee time is just as you come onto the island at the Hilton Head Island Chamber of Commerce Welcome Center (100 William Hilton Pkwy., 843/785-3673, www.hiltonheadisland.org, daily 9am-6pm).

  TRANSPORTATION

  A few years back, the Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport (SAV, 400 Airways Ave., Savannah, Georgia, 912/964-0514, www.savannahairport.com) added Hilton Head to its name specifically to identify itself with that lucrative market. The move has been a success, and this facility remains the closest large airport to Hilton Head Island and Bluffton. However, it’s not actually that close: Keep in mind that when your plane touches down in Savannah, you’re still about a 45-minute drive to Hilton Head proper. From the airport, go north on I-95 into South Carolina and take exit 8 onto U.S. 278 East.