The Wine Savant: A Guide to the New Wine Culture
Page 17
Jordan, Ehren, 146–47
Jorge Ordóñez, 52
José Pastor Selections, 52
Joseph Phelps Vineyards, 69, 98
Judgment of Paris (1976), 14, 94–95, 96, 97, 100, 108
Kabinett, 133, 165–66
Kafka, Franz, 70
Keller Wines, 139
Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, 51
Keynes, John Maynard, 90
Kramer, Matt, 9, 15–16, 27, 38, 107
Krankl, Manfred, 145–46
Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil, 25, 138
Kurniawan, Rudy, 10
Kutch, Jamie, 100
Kutch Wines, 108
Kysela Père et Fils, 53
labels, 6, 116
California Grand Cru on, 103–4
grape varieties on, 49, 50
place of origin on, 49, 50, 155
regulation and custom pertaining to, 49–50, 65
switching of, 13
lactic acid, 130
Lafite, Château, 123
1982, 124
Lafite-Rothschild, Château, 111
Asian market for, 8
fake, 10
Lafleur, Château, 124
1947, 164
1982, 25
Lafon, Dominique, 126, 145, 146–47
Lafon Meursault-Perrieres, Domaine (Burgundy), 138
Lagrein grape, 8, 160
La Paulée de New York, 84, 167–68
Lapierre, Marcel, 6, 78
La Rioja Alta, 55
Larmandier-Bernier Champagne, 118
Latour, Château, 123
gran vin of, 54
1961, 124
Laureau, Damien, 138
Lebowitz, Fran, 61
L’Eglise-Clinet, 1947, 164
Leflaive, Domaine, 69, 120, 125
Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet, Domaine (Burgundy), 138
Lehman Brothers, 141
Leonardo LoCascio/Winebow, 52
Leroy, Domaine, 69, 124
L’Évangile, 1947, 164
Lewin, Benjamin, 114
Liebfraumilch, Blue Nun, 134
Lioco Winery, 108
liquor:
sales regulation of, 43–44
wine drinking vs. drinking of, 3–4
lobster, 90
Loire River, 71
London, 8, 85
Loosen, Erni, 145
López de Heredia, 17, 55
Riojas, 17
Rosé, 17
Los Angeles Times, 45–46
Louis/Dressner Selections, 52
Louis Roederer, 69
lungs, 19
Luyt, Louis-Antoine, 6
Lynch, Kermit, 26–27, 51
Mackay, Jordan, 84
Mâcon, 122, 146
Mâcon-Lugny, 50
Macon-Villages, 88
Madeira, 5, 56, 168–70
decline of, 169
fortification of, 168–69
Mahle, Pax, 98
Maison Louis Jadot, 116, 122
Maison Louis Latour, 116
Malmsey grape, 169
Malvasia grape, 169
Marc de Grazia Selections, 52
Margaux, Château, 123
2000, 124
Marqués de Murietta, 55
Marqués de Riscal, 55
Marquis d’Angerville, Domaine, 116, 125
Martine’s Wines, 52
Martin Ray Winery, 97
Master Sommelier exam, 82
Mataró grape, 161
Matt Kramer on Wine (Kramer), 27
Mayacamas Vineyards, 55, 108, 131
McCarthy, Ed, 27
Mencia, 13
Mencia grape, 157–58
Merlot, 4
backlash against, 128
Cabernet Sauvignon blended with, 111
California, 64, 66
French, 111, 127, 128
Merlot grape, 66, 111, 152–53, 160
Meursault, 84
Meyers, Duncan Arnot, 98
Michael Skurnik Wines, 53
Michel Chapoutier, 69
Michel Lafarge, Domaine, 125
Mina, Michael, 84
Mission Haut-Brion, Château La, 124
1961, 25
Moët & Chandon Champagne, 116–17
Mollydooker, 61
Mondavi, Robert, 66
Mondavi, Tim, 66
Mondavi Reserve, 96
Monika Caha Selections, 51
Monte Bello, Ridge, 55, 95–96, 104
Montelena, Chateau, 55, 95–96, 104, 108, 131
Chardonnay, 1973, 94, 129–30
Monterey, Calif., 98
Montille, Domaine de, 125
Montrachet, 35, 83, 104
Montrachet restaurant, 83
Morgon, 78
Moueix, Christian, 145
Mount Eden Vineyards, 98, 131
Mourvèdre grape, 161
Mouton Rothschild, 94
1945, 44
Mouton Rothschild, Château, 123
1947, 164
1973, 124
1982, 25, 162
Mugnier, Domaine, 48, 125
Musigny 2005, 48
Mugnier, Frédéric, 84
Muscadet, 13, 157
Musigny Vineyard, 126
Nalle Winery, 109
natural wine movement, 75–80
Nebbiolo grape, 63, 160
Negroamaro grape, 153
Neil Empson Selections, 52
Nero d’Avola grape, 153
New Age philosophy, 73
New York, N.Y., 8, 72, 78, 83–84, 135
wine drinking in, 4, 153, 156
New York Finger Lakes region, 135
New York Times, 14, 19
New Zealand, 57
wines of, 9, 33, 34, 103, 112
Nieporent, Drew, 83
oak, 62–65
American, 64
bark of, 68
chips of, 64, 76
flavor of, 62–65, 66, 96, 99, 129–30
French, 63, 64, 129–30
Limousin, 129
new, 6, 61, 62–66, 99, 102, 107
Slovenian, 63
oenology, 40
oenophilia, 4, 7, 8, 37
accessibility of, 9
American, 5
defense of, 7, 12–20
exploring the culture of, 11
pleasures of, 31–32
stereotypes of, 3
wine snobbery vs., 13–15
oenophobia, 4
Official Guide to Wine Snobbery, The (Bernstein), 14
Old Bridge Cellars, 51
Olé Imports, 53
Oregon, 168
wines of, 9, 33, 35, 103, 112
Outliers (Gladwell), 26
País grape, 6
palates, 37, 61, 79
cleansing of, 67, 91
evolution of, 62
fickleness of, 45
German, 133
sensitive, 39
superior, 39
Western, 91
Paris, 26, 49, 85, 94–95, 115, 117
Intercontinental Hotel in, 94
wine drinking in, 4
Parker, Robert, 14, 16, 27, 28, 42–43, 45–47, 54, 69, 113, 134, 140
influence of, 43, 66–67, 96, 99, 112, 147
as polarizing figure, 61, 62, 64–65, 112
ratings by, 100, 112, 145
Parr, Rajat, 84–85, 100
Pastor, José, 52, 151–52
Paul Masson Winery, 97
Pedralonga Wine, 135
Petit Verdot, 111
Pétrus, Château, 124, 145
1947, 164
1982, 53–54
1989, 25
Peynaud, Émile, 79
Phelps Insignia, 95–96
phenylthiocarbamide (PTC), 39–41
phylloxera root louse, 7, 153–55
Pickering, Gary, 40
Pierre Gimonnet Champagne, 118
Pierre Moncuit Champagne, 118
Pierre Peters Champagne,
118
Pierre-Yves Colin Morey, Domaine, 125
Pinon, François, 137
Pinot Meunier grape, 117
Pinot Noir, 4, 21, 24, 68, 100, 132
best qualities in, 102
California, 22, 33, 67, 84, 97–98, 102, 108, 109, 112, 146
French, 67, 96, 110, 112–13, 127, 128
high-alcohol, 67
New Zealand, 33, 34, 103, 112
Oregon, 33, 35, 84, 103, 112
popularity of, 110, 112–13
Sonoma, 22
Pinot Noir grape, 8, 67, 97, 99, 100, 101, 103, 110–11, 117, 121, 136, 166
Pithon, Jo, 138
Pitte, Jean-Robert, 115
Poland, 70
Polaner Selections, 53
Ponsot, Domaine, 125
Port, 92
vintage, 25, 55–56
Portugal, 9
Douro region of, 8
Madeira Island, 168–69
preservatives, 76
Prohibition, 129, 169
repeal of, 43
propylthiouracil (PROP), 39–41
Prosecco, 90
Quinta do Noval Vintage Port Nacional, 1963, 25
radiation poisoning, 19
Ramonet Montrachet, 1986, 57
Raveneau, Domaine (Chablis), 125
Ravines Winery, 135
Recession, Great, 4, 21, 99, 113, 141
red wines, 30, 34, 38–39
acidity of, 56
aging of, 56
Australian, 32
California, 32, 94–95
color in, 39
flavinoids in, 18
French, 32–33, 48, 67, 111, 113, 126–27
great vintages of, 56
health benefits of, 18–20
Italian, 33, 35, 55
pairing food and, 91, 92
resveratrol in, 18–20
Spanish, 152
stemware for, 35
restaurants, 81–93, 132
BYO bottles in, 89–90
chefs in, 81–84, 85–86
corkage fees in, 89
eclectic cooking trends in, 85–87
French, 133
high-end, 85
ordering wine in, 36, 81–89, 90–93
rejecting wine in, 59, 89
tasting menus in, 86–87
tips for a happy wine experience in, 87–89
see also sommeliers; wine lists
resveratrol, health benefits of, 18–20
reverse osmosis machines, 77, 140
Rhône, 56
Rhône grape, 145
Rhys Vineyards, 97, 101–3, 108, 131
Ribolla Gialla grape, 152
Richaud, Marcel, 106
Ridge Vineyards, 95–96, 98, 108, 131, 145, 168
Sonoma County Three Valleys Zinfandel, 145
Riedel family, 35
Riesling, 131–36, 145, 159
acidity in, 133
alcohol levels in, 133
Alsatian, 92, 132, 139
American, 108, 109, 134–35
Austrian, 134, 135, 139
California, 108, 109, 134
dry, 5, 132, 133–34, 139
Finger Lakes, 135
German, 56, 91, 92, 132–34, 135, 139, 165–66
off-dry, 92, 134
popularity of, 131–32, 134
traditional sweet, fruity, 5, 91, 132–34
Riesling grape, 8, 131–32, 134–35, 136, 150
Rieussec, Château, 144
Riojas, 33, 155
aging of, 64
classical, 5, 17, 64
López de Heredia, 17
old vintages of, 55
RN74 restaurant, 84
Robert Kacher Selections, 51
Robert Mondavi Winery, 66
Roberts, Nathan Lee, 98
Robinson, Jancis, 27, 112–13
rodent control, 71
Rolland, Michel, 99
Romanée-Conti, Domaine de la, 10, 54, 64, 69, 95, 116, 121–22, 124, 140, 145, 147
grand cru reds of, 121
Montrachet, 121
vineyards of, 121
Romanée-Conti La Tâche, Domaine de la, 121
1971, 25
1990, 25, 162
Romanée-Conti Le Montrachet, Domaine de la (Burgundy), 138
Romans, ancient, 82, 159
Rosé, López de Heredia, 17
Rosenthal Wine Merchant, 52
Rothschild, Baron Philippe de, 124
Roy Cloud/Vintage ’59 Imports, 52
Rudi Wiest Selections, 52, 134
Rukeyser, Louis, 54
Russian Revolution, 169
Russian wine market, 8
Salon (Champagne), 138
Samuel Goldwyn Films, 82
San Andreas Fault, 102
Sandhi Wines, 84, 108, 131
Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, 131
San Francisco, Calif., 84, 97, 98, 100, 167
wine drinking in, 4, 135, 156
Sangiovese grape, 160
San Sebastián, 156
Santa Barbara International Film Festival of 2013, 82
Santa Cruz Mountains, 96, 97–98, 101–2, 168
Sardinia, 158
Sauternes, 91–92, 144
Sauvignon Blanc, 127–28
Sauvignon Blanc grape, 127–28, 135, 136, 152–53, 157
Savennières, 71–72, 73, 137–38
Savio Soares Selections, 52
Schäfer-Fröhlich Wine, 139
Schildknecht, David, 134
Science of Wines, The (Goode), 40
screw caps, 57–58
Sea Smoke Cellars, 103–4
Seattle, Wash., 84
Secrets of the Sommeliers (Parr and Mackay), 84
Sercial grape, 169
sex, erectile function and, 19
Shanghai, 8
Shaw, David, 45–46
Shenzhen, 8
Sherry, 5, 38, 56, 119
Shiraz, 37, 91, 141
Sicily, 51
Sideways (film), 3–4, 97, 136
Silesia, 70, 72
Sine Qua Non Winery, 145–46
60 Minutes, 18
Slate, 11, 127–28, 141, 142, 145, 163
Smith, Barry, 37–38
Smith, Douglass, 73–74
Smith, Stu, 73, 75
Smith-Vadrone Vineyards, 109
soil, 107
chalky, 166
limestone-rich, 96–98, 103
matching grapes with, 104
mineral-rich, 135
qualities derived from, 102
shallow, weathered, 101–2
Somm (film), 82
sommeliers, 33, 61, 81–89, 131, 135
American, 83–84
bad attitudes of, 88
ceremony and élan of, 82
dealing with, 88–89
French, 82–83
offering a taste to, 88
prominence of, 81–85
role of, 82–83, 86–87, 88
as tastemakers, 81, 101
South African wines, 136
South American wines, 6–7
Spain, 85, 135, 161
Basque country in, 156
Bierzo region of, 157
Galicia region of, 51, 153–54, 156
Rías Baixas appellation in, 156
Ribeira Sacra region of, 157
Ribera del Duero region of, 152
Rioja region of, 64, 152
Rueda appellation in, 156
Valdeorras appellation in, 156, 157, 159
wine importers of, 52–53, 151–52
wines of, 4, 9, 49, 64, 74, 90, 151–58
sparkling wines, 35, 128, 135, 137, 166
American, 90
food combination with, 90
see also Champagne
Spätlese, 133, 166
Spiegelau stemware, 35
spinning cones, 77
Spottswoode Estate Vineyard and Winery, 95–96
Spurrier, Steve, 94
Stag
’s Leap Wine Cellars, 94
Steiner, Rudolf, 69–71, 72–73, 74, 75
homeopathic preparations of, 71, 74
see also biodynamic viticulture
steroids, 79
Stone, Larry, 83
Stony Hill Vineyard, 108, 131
sulfur dioxide (SO2), 76, 77, 78, 120
Summer of Riesling, 131–32
sushi, 90, 92
Sydney, 153
Syrah, 67, 76, 127
California, 97–98, 100, 108, 146
Syrah grape, 8, 100, 152
Taber, George, 129
Taille aux Loups, Domaine de la, 137
Taittinger Champagne, 116–17, 138
tannins, 23, 31, 56, 64, 76, 160
TAS2R38 gene, 40–41
taste, 60, 76, 99
bitter, 39–41
five basic sensations of, 40
harmony and balance of, 23, 30
“hollow midplate,” 22
individuality of, 37, 45
“peacock’s tail,” 23
salty, 40, 41
savory (umami), 40, 41
sour, 40, 41
sweet, 40, 41
see also flavor; wine tasters; wine tastings
tasting notes, 24, 27–31
“professional,” 29, 31
purpose of, 30
Tasting Pleasures (Robinson), 27
Tatler, 29
taverns, 15
Taylor Wines, 56
tectonic plates, 102
Terrantez, 1795, 169
Terrantez grape, 169
Terres Dorées, Domaine des, 2007 Beaujolais l’Ancien, 154–55
terroir concept, 18, 23, 50, 60, 67, 68, 96, 98–100, 102, 107–8, 114–15, 117–18, 121
Terry Theise Estate Selections, 52, 134
Theise, Terry, 51, 52, 134
Thévenet, Jean, 106
Time, 129
Tokyo, 85
tongues, 40–41
circumvallate papillae on, 40
foliate papillae on, 40
fungiform papillae on, 39, 40
taste buds of, 39
Treixadura grape, 151
Trimbach Winery, 132
Riesling Clos Ste. Hune of, 25, 132, 139
Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile of, 132, 139
Trockenbeerenauslese Wine, 133
Trousseau, 153
Turley, Helen, 99
Twitter, 61, 84
2, 4, 6–trichloroanisole (TCA), 56
Txakoli, 153, 156
Tyler Winery, 108, 131
Ulysse Collin Champagne, 118
United States:
ascendancy of confident and sophisticated wine drinking in, 4–5, 12–14, 16–18, 43–44, 50–51, 62, 82, 143
beer and liquor vs. wine drinkers in, 3–4, 12, 15
campaign finance system in, 44
importing wines to, 50–51
pop culture in, 12–13
professional wine service in, 83–85
Prohibition and Repeal in, 43, 129, 169
regulatory alcohol law in, 43–44, 65
social mobility in, 105
wine consumption statistics in, 4
Valencia, 151
Valhalla, 55
Vanity Fair, 10
Vega Sicilia Winery, 155
Verdejo grape, 8, 156, 157
Vermentino grape, 158
Veuve Clicquot Champagne, 116–17
Viagra, 19
Vias Imports, 52
Vienna, 69
Vieux Château Certan, 1947, 164