Urban Crayon

by Kim Barrington Narisetti

  Entry: Rs 10 Indians/Rs 250 foreigners

  Entry for Sound and Light Show: Rs 50. Tickets are available at a kiosk at the fort

  Time required: 2 to 4 hours

  Timings of sound and light show: Nov–Jan: 7:30 pm; Jan–Apr: 8:30 pm; May–Aug: 9 pm; Sept–Oct: 8:30 pm

  Safdarjung’s Tomb

  Considered the poor, underrated cousin of Humayun’s Tomb, Safdarjung’s Tomb entombs Muqim Abul Mansur Khan, also known as Safdarjung. He was the viceroy of Awadh under Mughal Emperor Mohammed Shah and later became prime minister. In 1754, Nawab Shuja-ud-Daulah, Safdarjung’s son, built the tomb, which holds the distinction of being the last garden tomb built in Delhi. Despite its historical importance, the tomb sometimes doesn’t register on the must-see sights radar. Located near the Safdarjung Airport on Aurobindo Marg, the tomb was built on a high terrace in a grand garden with high walls and a central domed mausoleum. The 2 graves inside the tomb are of Safdarjung and his wife. The tomb, typical of Mughal architecture, is made of red sandstone and buff stone and has several pavilions, a courtyard, mosque and a madrassa (Muslim school) inside the premises. There is a library over the main gateway, maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). There are toilets and drinking water for visitors.

  >Intersection of Safdarjung Road and Aurobindo Marg, near the Safdarjang Airport (Central Delhi)

  Nearest Metro:Central Secretariat

  Timings: Daily sunrise to sunset

  Entry: Rs 10 Indians, Rs 100 foreigners

  Time required: 1 hour

  Nearby sights: Dilli Haat, Lodhi Garden, India Gate

  Nearby places to eat: Food court at Dilli Haat, Eatopia, restaurants at Khan Market

  Zafar Mahal

  Zafar Mahal was the part-time home of the late Mughals. Believers in the powers of the Sufi saint Qutubuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki, his followers built a little palace next to his dargah (tomb) in Mehrauli. At the site, one also finds the Moti Masij and some graves that are in dire need of upkeep. Those buried here include Bahadur Shah I, Shah Alam II (who was blinded by the Rohillas), his son Akbar Shah and Prince Mirza Fakhru (son of Bahadur Shah II, also known as Zafar).

  > From Adham Khan’s tomb, next to the Mehrauli bus stand, walk down the main street toward Bakhtiyar Kaki’s dargah. Bring a plastic bag as you will have to remove your shoes and carry them with you through the dargah.

  Timings: Daily sunrise to sunset

  DAY TRIPPIN' AND OVERNIGHTERS

  No. 1: Agra. Explore three World Heritage Sites within

  a short distance from each other including the grand

  monument to love, the Taj Mahal.

  There is plenty to see and do just a few hours drive from Delhi. Experience nature, calming lakes, and places where we just want to relax. The Taj Mahal in Agra should top the list, but also buy crafts at the Surajkund mela; watch the birds at Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary and soar over the city in a hot air balloon from Damdama Lake. If forts get the pulse racing, there’s Neemrana Fort Palace, Kesroli Fort and the Mud Fort in Kuchesar. Picnics in parks outside the city, boating and horseback riding can easily be managed with some preplanning and snacks for the road. However, if sometimes just a day in picturesque surroundings won’t do, there are lots of hotel/guest house options nearby.

  A Peep into History

  Agra

  The Taj Mahal in Agra needs no introduction. It was built as a mausoleum of Shah Jahan’s favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. It is probably one of the world’s most photographed monuments. One of the New Seven Wonders of the World, it is just 4 hours away by car (if you leave Delhi by 7 in the morning, that is); and 2 hours by train. The Taj and its surrounding lawns are magnificent—children will enjoy the hokey photos that make it look like they have the Taj Mahal in the palm of their hands, but the guides are nothing like the hilarious rendition by the kids in Slumdog Millionaire! Located on the banks of the Yamuna river in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh, Agra was once the capital of India from 1526 to 1658, before Emperor Shah Jahan shifted the capital to its current home. The Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri are all UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Have lunch at the Oberoi Amarvilas, then hit the road back to Delhi. For security reasons, you have to call beforehand to make a lunch reservation. But you don’t have to pin down a specific time as the dining room is never packed. After lunch, hit the road back to Delhi and you’ll be home for dinner. A round trip can be done in 12 hours.

  >By car: About 200 km from Delhi. Take Mathura Road to the NH-2 and follow the signs to Agra. There’s a McDonald’s on the way, at the half-way point. Stop for breakfast, coffee or a bathroom break.

  >By train: Indian Railways: Check www.indianrail.gov.in for train times and fares. Go to www.irctc.co.in for online booking.

  Places to eat in Agra: Oberoi Amarvilas, Taj East Gate Road. Numerous other budget options.

  Tel: +91 562 223 1515

  Web: www.amarvilas.com/Hotel/Hotel-Overview.aspx

  Kesroli Hill Fort

  Palaces and forts seem to sprout out of the hillsides around Delhi and the Kesroli Hill Fort is no exception. What only appears in fairytales for kids in the rest of the world (except Europe), a real life climb-and-imagine-you’re-a-warrior-or-heroinewaiting-to-be-rescued is do-able in a day. The driving distance to the fort is no big deal once you’ve been to Agra and back in a day. Located in Rajasthan, the distance of 155 km takes about 3 hours. The fort is on a hill overlooking the village of Kesroli. Built in the fourteenth century, the heritage property is just 15 km away from Alwar. It also offers easy access to the Sariska Tiger Sanctuary and Siliserh Lake. The property is owned by the Neemrana group, but visitors are welcome to take in the view from the fort. The hotel has one restaurant and bar.

  >Kesroli village, near MIA post office, Bahala, Alwar, Rajasthan

  Tel: 01468 289 352 or the Neemrana shop at 011 4358 7183

  Web: www.neemranahotels.com

  Kuchesar Mud Fort

  With the holy Ganges River just 24 km away from the Mud Fort in Kuchesar, the 60 km drive offers a two-for-one visit. Set amid mango orchards and lush greenery, the 7-turreted fort was built in the eighteenth century by the Jat rulers to defend against cannon attacks from the British. A moat was also constructed around the palace. Beautiful gardens can be seen from 3 sides of the fort. The resort offers a bullock cart safari and horseback riding, both of which you don’t need to be a guest to enjoy. Be sure to also explore the bustling Bulandshahr Market along Ansari Road.

  >Delhi–Moradabad Road

  Tel: +91 573 627 3038

  Web: www.mudfortkuchesar.com

  Neemrana

  Neemrana is an ancient historical town in the Alwar district of Rajasthan, located just 133 km from Delhi on the Delhi–Jaipur highway. The splendid Neemrana Fort Palace is the main attraction here. Kids won’t tire of exploring it. Built in the fourteenth century, the beautifully restored fort has spectacular views of the countryside. Converted into a 40-room hotel, there are 2 restaurants in which to eat after taking in the stunning views. Because the fort is now a hotel, only public areas are open to visitors. But they provide wonderful views of the hillside.

  > Neemrana, Alwar district

  Tel: 95 1494 24 6006 or the Neemrana shop in Khan Market at 011 4358 7183

  Web: neemranhotels.com

  Call of the Wild

  Camp Wild

  Nestled in the Aravalli Valley, Camp Wild at Dhauj offers adventure and fitness activities. There’s an endless list of activities for kids who love to move-it, move-it, such as rock climbing, mountain biking, zorbing, parasailing and cliff jumps. Those who err on the side of caution can play volleyball, cricket and football. There’s a fun obstacle course for kids to channel their inner Georges of the Jungle.

  >Holiday Moods 3/6 DB Gupta Road, Paharganj

  Tel: 011 4300 0800

  Entry: Overnight packages from Rs 1,400 for shared room

  Web: www.holidaymoods.net

  Damdama Lake

 
Damdama Lake is one of the biggest natural lakes in the Haryana, covering 300 acres. It is located about 20 km from Gurgaon on the Gurgaon–Alwar road. Surrounded by the Aravalli Hills, it is a popular picnic spot to spend the weekend. Those who are into adventure sports will feel that this place is downright paradise because of the boating, rowing, fishing, kayaking, cycling, hot air ballooning and parasailing facilities. Nature walks should also be on the agenda as the lake attracts more than 190 species of birds, both migratory and native during the winter, which runs from November to March. Numerous resorts have sprung up along the lake if plans are afoot to spend the weekend instead of heading back to Delhi.

  >45 km from Dhaula Kuan on Delhi–Alwar highway

  Best time to go: Oct to March

  The Ballooning Club of India

  The club organizes hot air balloon rides over Damdama Lake (see Playground Paradise, pp.57–8). Balloon rides are best suited for children 5 and older. They will have to be accompanied by an adult. Taking off and landing are a thrilling experience. Regular rides last one hour and cost Rs 10,000 for 10 people. However, a 15% discount is given for groups of 10.

  >Office: 8-B Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg

  Tel: 011 2371 6665; Mr Gupta (chairman) 98100 11382

  Departure point: Damdama Lake, Haryana

  Timings: From Sept to March

  Entry: Rs 300 per child; Rs 500 for adult with a minimum of 10 people

  Other options: The Saras Tourist Complex in Haryana also offers paragliding, rock climbing, parasailing and for those in the know, there’s sphering or zorbing, a sport that involves rolling down a hill in a plastic ball. Eat lunch post your balloon ride. A group of at least 30 is required for the activities, so rope in more adventurous family and friends. Parasailing is Rs 12,000 per day for 30 to 50 people; paragliding Rs 1,700 per flight with a minimum of 8 flights per day; rock-climbing Rs 5,500 per day for 30 to 40 people; sphering Rs 6,500 per day for 30 people. Booking has to be made 3 days ahead of time.

  Keoladeo National Park

  Keoladeo National Park in Bharatpur has over 300 species of birds and animals. The best time to visit this park is October to February. Migratory birds fly in from China, Central Asia and Siberia. Bharatpur was founded by a local ruler in the 1870s and is named after a Keoladeo (Shiva) temple within its boundaries. It was made a World Heritage Site in 1985. Pythons can frequently be seen sunning themselves around the park. Tigers are also a big attraction in the park. Other animals that can be spotted include antelopes, nilgai, sambhar, chital, wild boar, porcupines, jackals, leopards, jungle cats and marsh crocodiles. Vehicles are only permitted up to a certain point. The van provided by the forest department can be hired in the sanctuary, although the best way to explore the park is on foot or bicycles which are available on hire. Cycle rickshaws can also be hired. Restaurants are very basic so if you plan on spending an entire day in the park, it is best to pack a picnic. Situated at the border between Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh, at 215 km away from Delhi, the drive will take about 3 hours.

  > Keoladeo Ghana is situated just 2 km from the town of Bharatpur, which is connected by train and road to Delhi (200 km away). There are regular buses to Bharatpur from Delhi. A map of the park’s walking trails can be obtained from the reception counter at the entrance.

  Entry: All visitors to Keoladeo Ghana, Bharatpur, need to obtain an entry permit from the Warden or Ranger at the entrance to the park. Foreigners pay an entry fee of Rs 200; Indians pay Rs 25. Extra charges are levied for cameras and photographic equipment.

  Siliserh

  A popular picnic spot, Siliserh is situated on the Jaipur road, 15 km from Alwar in Rajasthan and just 164 km to the west of Delhi. The Siliserh Lake that surrounds the wooded hills is tranquil. Few places are worth the visit not only for the views they offer but more so for the convenience of going by car, and Siliserh fits the criteria. Maharaja Vinay Singh built Siliserh Lake for his queen Sheela in 1845 AD. In order to build this lake, 2 earthen dams were constructed between 2 hills. Siliserh Lake is on the forested slopes of the Aravallis and various migratory birds often frequent this lake, so this is also a bird watcher’s haven. The lake offers boating facilities so the family can row, row, row their boats, and many sportsmen also bring their fishing poles. Motor boats can be rented at Rs 300 for 15 minutes. It is an ideal family getaway in the summer.

  > Siliserh District, Alwar Leave early in the morning, starting at Dhaula Kuan and taking the NH-8 for Gurgaon. Continue south on NH-8 for Dharuhera past Manesar. At Dharuhera, turn left on State Highway for Alwar via Tijara. At Alwar, take the local road for Siliserh.

  Places to stay: The Siliserh Lake Palace is a great option. Operated by Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation, the Hotel Lake Palace has 10 rooms. The in-house restaurant serves Indian and regional cuisines.

  Tel: 011 2435 6145

  Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary

  At any given time, there are about 5,000 migratory birds, 50 to 100 different species, in the Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary and that number can soar to 50,000 from October to December. Species from Europe, Siberia and even central Asia come to the lake within the sanctuary. There are 4 watch towers (machans) at various locations and binoculars for use. Located about 50 km outside Delhi, the park has parking, toilet facilities, drinking water, and a children’s park in the reserve. A popular spot for picnics during the day, if you’re interested in an overnight stay, there is a resort near the entrance that provides food as well as lodging. The onsite educational Interpretation Centre has more than 50 photos of various bird species with detailed descriptions of the many birds you may spot on the walk around the perimeter which takes about 2 hours.

  >50 km from Delhi, 15 km outside Gurgaon, District of Haryana

  Gurgaon Farukh Nagar Road

  Tel: 0124 6322057

  Entry: Rs 50 per person

  There’s More to Gurgaon

  Gurgaon should not only be known for its massive malls and concrete jungle. It has historic towns such as Farrukh Nagar, Pataudi, Firozpur Zhirka and Tauro. Named after the Mughal ruler Farrukk Siyar, Farrukh Nagar was founded by a Baluch chief Faujdar Khan. The town has a Sheesh Mahal, Baoli (bath place) and 5 gates built in 1711 AD and railway station built during the colonial era. About 50 structures have been identified by INTACH as having some kind of historical significance.

  Dhankot

  Dhankot is believed to be the place where milk was supplied to Guru Dronacharya and his followers. According to Buddhist teachings, Dhankot, also known as Thullkottiha, was visited by Lord Buddha. It is located 11 km west of Gurgaon. Best for older kids who have been exposed to various religions and want to get a bit more first-hand information.

  >Gurgaon–Farrukhnagar Road

  Farukhnagar

  Farukhnagar was built by the local Nawab Faujdar Khan in the 18th century. The town is named after its ruler. Points of interest include the Sheesh Mahal and the Jami Masjid. Built by Faujdar Khan, the Jami Masjid was constructed with red stone from Agra. Two slabs of red sand stone are also affixed in the court yard. While there, visit the village of Mubarakpur, 5 km away, which has the shrine of Budho Mata. Thousands of people flock to the temple every year to take blessings from the goddess, especially newly married couples, and babies get their first haircuts here. For children, a visit to this town is noteworthy because it really is a sight to behold what many kids themselves have probably gone through as babies experiencing their first haircuts.

  >21 km from Gurgaon’s centre

  Nuh

  Most people don’t think of Nuh without thinking of salt, which used to be manufactured and traded from nearby villages. Nuh, pronounced ‘Nu-hu’, not ‘nah’ (the likely response you are likely to get when you ask the kids if they are ready for bed), is centrally located for visiting places of historical interest. To the west of Nuh is a tank made of red sandstone that is decorated with beautiful floral designs. Sheikh Musa’s tomb, built with both Muslim and Rajput influences, can be found 2.5 km from town. In
Kotala village, about 7 km south of Nuh, is a mosque and tomb of Bahadur Khan Nahir. The gateway to the tomb has 2 pillars called shaking minarets. A fun exercise to show the kids, that will prove that not only do parents have eyes on the back of their heads as they believe, but also Superman’s superhuman strength, is to actually shake them. The secret is to hold one of the pillars at the top of a minaret and push it. This action will cause the adjacent minaret to move.

  >45 km from Gurgaon on the Delhi–Alwar Road

  Sanghel

  Sanghel is one of the highest mounds in the area. There are many mounds in Gurgaon, but Sanghel towers over them. Historians differ whether the mound is hundreds of years old or thousands of years old. The mound has a rich archaeological history as gray ware paintings and other artifacts have been found inside it. Points of interest include several stone sculptures with the images of Varaha and Narasimha and the Goddess Lakshmi. Another attraction near Sanghel is the Ujina village that is famous for its picturesque lake. It affords the perfect opportunity for kids to walk along the lake shore and take photos beside the sculptures.

  >13 km south of Nuh on Nuh–Hodal Road

  Et cetera

  Badhkal Lake

  A great spot for a picnic outside the city is Badhkal Lake near Faridabad. The name is a bit of a misnomer as the lake dried up years ago, but the lawns are beautiful and well manicured. A swim can be had in the pool for Rs 100 per hour and camel and horse riding is a bargain at Rs 20 per ride. There’s something here for every member of the family, with boating, water sports such as canoeing and kayaking, and a chilren’s park which the kids will enjoy. Snack kiosks and a restaurant keep the hunger at bay, and there’s a motel with a fitness centre too. (Also see Beauty and the Beast, p.12–13.)