The Fashionista Files

by Karen Robinovitz

  Call before you come in and inform your contact of your impending arrival. This way, the store is prepared to receive you and may even have a dressing room full of things for you to try. Bring your point person (or people) something. We recommend candy. They could probably use a sugar fix.

  The Stealth Shopper

  MELISSA

  Shopping is an extremely personal matter to me. It’s not just about buying; it’s about reimagining who I am, fantasizing about what I want my life to be, and forgetting about all the problems of my day. Whenever I’m in distress, I never run for a therapist or for a prescription. I work it out on the sales rack. It’s called “brand-aid.”

  When I shop, I get into “the zone”—I don’t see anything but the clothes and shoes and bags in front of me. The stress of the daily grind wears away. I don’t hear the ring of my cell phone. And all I’m left with are extremely interesting, critical questions, like: Can I pull off shiny vinyl pants? Do I need another white fringed handbag? What would go with this fishnet-sleeved shirt?

  Because I have a constant running dialog in my head, I have never really enjoyed shopping with other people. I see them as unnecessary distractions who take away from the pure, unadulterated joy of shopping. For one thing, I don’t trust other people’s opinions. I am a tenacious bargain hunter, one who has learned to find the diamond in the rough. I pull clothes from the pile that no one would look at twice. And I know that if I put it on, whoever I’m with won’t see the possibilities I see.

  For example, I have several brightly colored polyester floorlength gowns that I bought at a Cleveland thrift store for a dollar each. They looked odd and garish on the rack, but I knew that once I got them taken in and hemmed to the right length, they would make amazing evening dresses for spring benefits. Don’t get me wrong; I still enjoy shopping as a social occasion. Karen and I have made Kirna Zabete a frequent stomping ground and a fun “break” from working on our books. My friend Jennie and I have a standing date to shop every Sunday, and when I visit my parents, there’s nothing my sister, mother, and I like to do more than hit the mall. But they are not real shopping trips for me, merely a pleasant way to spend time. I never find my greatest treasures on a group outing.

  I am also very skeptical of the ministrations of overly familiar salespeople. I like to survey the store, disappear into the dressing room, and decide what to buy all by myself without someone plying me with empty flattery just for a sales commission. I also feel guilty about hurting someone’s feelings if I don’t buy something. Most of the time I prefer to slink away if things don’t “work out.” I hate disappointing people. But sometimes I just can’t escape.

  For instance, my favorite store in the whole world is Century 21. A world-famous discount emporium, Century 21 has last season’s must-haves at bargain-basement prices. I thrill to see $300 Balenciaga coats (from $1,800!), or Vera Wang wedding dresses for $99. When I worked down on Wall Street, Century 21 was across the street from my building. I hated my job, and I spent many happy hours at Century, fantasizing that I was a fashion editor instead of a computer consultant. For almost a decade I was at Century 21 every day for two hours at a time. I guess I should have been resigned to being recognized.

  One day, one of the green-jacketed salesgirls asked me for my name. The next time I went, she had put things aside for me that she thought I might like. She told me about the store’s personal-shopper service, and while I had mixed feelings about it, I soon reveled in all the attention. She put aside a cream-white Helmut Lang funnel-neck coat that every fashionista was dying to own (and I bought it for $399 from $1,200!), and she also dug up a leather Alexander McQueen dress I had been lusting over at Barneys. But because I had a personal shopper, I felt exposed every time I visited. I could no longer just rummage through the racks, lost in thought. In the back of my mind I knew she was there, waiting for me to make a purchase.

  I couldn’t handle the pressure (or the expense to my wallet— she kept unearthing such great things that I felt I had no choice but to buy them), and I missed having the triumph of the discovery. She did all the work. All I needed to do was pony up my credit cards. Where was the fun in that? After a few weeks I kept away from Century 21 (I was hiding from my personal shopper!), and I didn’t go back for a season or more. A month later I returned, and found out they had discontinued the service.

  I was back in the racks, alone with my thoughts and fantasies once again. It was heaven.

  THE LONE SHOPPER

  How to Keep Your Distance and Maintain Your Personal Space While Shopping

  Enter the store while talking (or faux talking) on your cell phone. No one wants to bother a person who’s in the middle of a conversation.

  Don’t bring a dog or a baby. Everyone always wants to ooh and aah over that sort of thing.

  Don’t dress to impress. Keep a low profile. If “they” suspect you could be a high roller, they’re likely to be all over you.

  Don’t make eye contact with anyone. Not even for a second.

  If someone asks to help you, give the obligatory “No, thanks, just browsing.”

  If you find yourself being hounded by a salesperson who can’t take a hint, plead laryngitis to put an end to the conversation. Just be careful that you don’t blow your cover if your phone rings, you bump into a friend, or you yell in excitement when you successfully close size-four pants.

  Brashly give them the ol’ “talk to the hand” gesture. What’s wrong with that? Isn’t the customer always right?

  WHERE TO WEAR

  The Shopping Uniform KAREN

  What you wear to go shopping says a lot about you. There are women who dress to the nines because they want to impress and project the “I’m a good customer” image of “big spender.” There are those who dress in a way that’s conducive to slipping in and out of what they’re wearing. There are those who dress for comfort. And then there’s me. I’m very strategic. As far as tops, anything goes. From a zip-up Juicy hoodie or a tank top to a basic sweater or a white button-down shirt, I don’t concern myself with shirts. My only rule is that they’re comfortable and not constricting. I focus on other necessities.

  First and foremost, I’m all about jeans, especially when I try on tops, which I find I often need more than anything else because I can wear jeans twenty-four/seven and change the entire look with whatever goes on above the waist. So I always wear jeans (unless I’m actually shopping for jeans, in which case I tend to wear Juicy sweats or a denim mini because they’re both easy to get into and out of). Trying on things when I’m already wearing my favorite jeans gives me a clear indication of how the piece will really work into my wardrobe and life.

  Step two in shopping uniform: heels. Heels are a must. Even if I’ll be spending the entire day on my feet, I wear four-inchers (okay, maybe three if I want to be practical—or wedgie slides if weather permits). Being equipped with heels gives me the illusion of longer legs, which makes me feel more svelte, which promotes more of a buying attitude. When I feel short, squat, and thighish, I’m not apt to buy. Now, the heels have to be neutral, the kind that go with anything and everything. A basic pointy-toed black-patent pump, perhaps. Or a nude-colored knee-high boot. That way it doesn’t matter if I’m trying on pants, skirts, dresses, jumpsuits, or what have you—because I have shoes that do whatever I’m donning justice.

  I have learned the importance of wearing good heels the hard way. When I’m in sneakers or cozy Uggs, I have to stand on my tippy-toes to get a feel for how the items would translate from store to real world. And being that that’s an uncomfortable way to walk around, I wind up trying on shoes from the store. And therein lies the problem. They, of course, bring out the most spectacular footwear, something that goes magically with what I’m wearing, serving to tempt me to spend more money. As a woman with very little sense of self-control—and an insatiable fetish for new shoes—it’s hard for me to just say no. Being armed with my own heels saves me money.

  As for another trick
I’ve picked up: I keep a strapless bra in my bag at all times. That way, when I try on a sheer top, a bustier, a cute cami, or some kind of strapless situation, I never have to wonder what it might look like with the proper lingerie. Bra straps can be so obtrusive. That’s it. It’s very simple. And it leaves my mind free to contemplate more important things—like how I’ll pay for what I want.

  DRESS TO BUY!

  What to Put on (or Tote Around) for Any Purchasing Jaunt

  Something that makes your life easier. Think about your needs, not what a salesperson might think of what you’re wearing. One of the most affluent women we know wears a cheesy one-piece zip-up terry-cloth jumpsuit, so she can dress and undress without a fuss.

  If you’re in a time crunch, consider a trench coat, heels, and nothing else. It will save you the hassle of buttons and buckles and zippers when you’re in the dressing room.

  A thong. It prevents panty lines. Nothing says dowdy like panty lines.

  A catsuit for shy types when venturing out to places like Loehmann’s, where there are community dressing rooms. It saves you embarrassing naked moments. Besides, your stretch marks and cellulite are no one’s business.

  A great-fitting T-shirt. It works with everything down south.

  Juicy sweats. They’re easy, relaxed, and cute as hell.

  One fabulous accessory—great hoop earrings, a cool scarf, a chic clutch, a hot fedora—to enhance your potential new threads.

  Lipstick. A girl’s got to feel good about how she looks when she’s shopping. Our favorite: MAC’s Diva Matte.

  RETAIL THERAPY

  Glamour Girl: Where to Splurge Your Heart Out Around the World NEW YORK CITY

  Kirna Zabete, a haute haven, filled with Chloe, Gaultier, Balenciaga, Ungaro, Hussein Chalayan, AF Vandervorst, Rick Owens, Andrew Gn, Adam Jones, Valentino handbags, Pierre Hardy heels, and special accessories, like glamorous Indian pieces by one of Nicole Kidman’s favorite designers. Also, they have candy and a more affordable section of play clothes downstairs! 96 Greene Street (212) 941-9656.

  Henri Bendel, a happy department store where you’ll score Philip Treacy hats, Rick Owens, Catherine Malandrino, Diane von Furstenberg, Plein Sud, Anna Molinari, wacky frocks from Bernard Wilhelm, and the hottest emerging British designers, like Alex Gore Brown and Emma Cooke. Plus, a great beauty department: Bobbi Brown, MAC, Trish McEvoy, DVF Beauty, Mary Quant. Fragrances: Jean LaPorte and Santa Maria Novella. 712 Fifth Avenue (212) 247-1100.

  Other high-end department stores, such as Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, and Saks Fifth Avenue.

  All important flagship boutiques, such as Alexander McQueen, Prada, YSL, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Chloe, Gaultier, Hermès, Balenciaga, Ungaro, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, Helmut Lang, Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Burberry, Stella McCartney, Versace, Bottega Veneta, Harry Winston, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and more.

  Jeffrey, New York, a highbrow shopfest, complete with DJ and a crazy selection of Marni, Alaia, Zac Posen, Gucci, YSL, Jil Sander, Galliano, Dries Van Noten, Anne Demeulemeester, Pucci, Narciso Rodriguez, Henry Duarte jeans, and the sickest shoe selection in town (Brian Atwood, Manolo, Jimmy, Prada, Gucci, YSL, Christian Louboutin, and, oh, we can go on!). Known for great sales staff and huge dressing rooms, to boot. 449 West Fourteenth Street (212) 206-1272.

  Seven, an avant-garde refuge of often hard-to-wear, but the most interesting collections from As Four, Bernard Wilhelm, and Raf Simons, and it’s the only store in the city that carries Imitation of Christ’s menswear line. 180 Orchard Street (646) 654-0156.

  LOS ANGELES

  Tracey Ross, a jewel box of a boutique where all the celebs get their doses of Stella McCartney, Juicy, Chloe, and Marc Jacobs. Also carries unusual knickknacks: $300 to $800 smoking pipes from Vietnam, cotton pajamas from China, and beaded jewelry pieces from Tanzania and Kenya. 8595 Sunset Boulevard (310) 854-1996.

  Maxfield, a center for the eighties resurgence with brand masters Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Dolce & Gabbana, and Gucci. 8825 Melrose Avenue (310) 274-8800.

  Mademoiselle Pearl. Owned by Jennifer Nicholson (yes, daughter of Jack) who reconstructs vintage clothes with a modern twist for celebs who like to play, like Lara Flynn Boyle and Shannon Doherty. She also carries her favorite designers: Stella McCartney, Galliano, and Ernesto Esposito. 1311-B Montana Avenue, Santa Monica (310) 576-7116.

  Fred Segal. There are two stores—one on Melrose and one in Santa Monica. Both have everything you’d ever want, from posh to retro hip: Armani, Colette Dinnigan, Chloe, Helmut Lang, Marc Jacobs, Earl Jean, Katayone Adeli. 8100 Melrose Avenue, West Hollywood (323) 655-3734; 500 Broadway, Santa Monica (310) 458-8100.

  Lily et Cie. A highly curated, hand-picked vintage museum gallery where all the celebrities get their glorious vintage gowns, often worn to award ceremonies and black-tie events. Haute couture collections include Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Givenchy, American designers Pauline Trigere and futurist Rudi Gernreich along with handbags from Hermès and Chanel, and Miriam Haskell and William De Lillo jewelry lines. 9044 Burton Way, Beverly Hills (310) 724-5757.

  Important flagship stores (Celine, Gucci, Chanel, you name it) are located on and near Rodeo Drive.

  MIAMI

  Bal Harbor, a shopping center with the crème de la crème: Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Armani, Prada, Bvlgari, Cartier, Chanel, Gianni Versace, Escada, Hermès, Christian Dior, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ungaro, Tiffany & Co., along with Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue specialty stores. 9700 Collins Avenue (305) 866-0311.

  Merrick Park, another shopping center. Located in Coral Gables, it has 115 stores: Diane von Furstenberg, Hogan, Jimmy Choo, Gucci, Tiffany & Co., Vespa, Carolina Herrera, Roberto Cavalli, and more. 358 Avenue San Lorenzo (305) 529-0200.

  DALLAS

  Stanley Korshak is the mother ship for the rich and famous for European and American collections, including Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, Donna Karan, Armani, Paul Smith, and many things that glitter. 500 Crescent Court #100 (214) 871-3600.

  The Dallas Galleria is the home of department store biggies Nordstrom, Macy’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, and essential designers such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Gianni Versace, Max Mara, and Hugo Boss. 13355 Noel Road (972) 702-7100.

  Neiman Marcus. The Dallas store is where this superstar megastore began. 400 Northpark Center (214) 891-1280; 1618 Main Street.

  Highland Park Village, the Rodeo Drive of Dallas, where Jerry Jones, owner of the Dallas Cowboys, and Ross Perot live. Calvin Klein, Prada, Hermès, Christian Dior, Bottega Veneta, Chanel, Escada, and Harold’s all live here. Mockingbird Lane at Preston Road (214) 559-2740.

  CHICAGO

  Oak Street is where superposh shopaholics lurk, as this part of town—on the north side—has it all, from Prada, Jil Sander, and Kate Spade to Luca Luca, Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Versace, and more.

  Chicago Underground, a minimalist space for tapered hipsters seeking Gianni Versace, Roberto Cavalli, Zanella, Jean Paul Gaultier, Gianfranco Ferré, shoes by Lorenzo Banfi and Cesare Paciotti. 72 East Oak Street (312) 787-9557.

  Department stores like Barneys New York, a New York favorite in Chicago for high-end classics like Donna Karan, the entire Vera Wang bridal selection, and a fine selection of Balenciaga.

  George Greene, a men’s-only haven of Kiton, Luciano Barbera, Oxxford, Zegna, Yohji Yamamoto, and Christian Dior. 49 East Oak Street (312) 654-2490.

  Ultimo, a breeding ground for upscale hipster stuff from Katayone Adeli, Jil Stuart, Randolph Duke, and Armani to Issey Miyake, Miu Miu, John Galliano, Michael Kors, and Chloe. 114 E. Oak Street (312) 787-1171.

  PHILADELPHIA

  King of Prussia Mall is world-renowned. With Louis Vuitton, Gianni Versace, Donna Karan, and Neiman Marcus, it’s no wonder. Route 202 at Mall Boulevard (610) 265-5727.

  Aptly named Jeweler’s Row, one of the oldest diamond districts in America, this area offers little fingers big, fat stones of diamonds and pearls and colorful gems: Check out Sansom Street betwe
en Seventh & Eighth.

  Rittenhouse Row houses a cluster of specialty stores like Nicole Miller, Polo/Ralph Lauren, Francis Jerome, and Sophy Cur-son.

  Joan Shepp. A wonderful mix that includes Dries Van Noten, Prada shoes, Wolford hosiery, Chloe, and Yohji Yamamoto, to name a few. 1616 Walnut Street (215) 735-2666.

  BOSTON

  Louis Boston, considered the city’s answer to Barneys or Harvey Nichols in London. Two floors of women’s, three floors of men’s, and everything you’d ever want from Balenciaga, Prada, the groovy Aussie line Sass & Bide, Zac Posen, Dries Van Noten, and Foley + Corinna. 234 Berkeley Street (617) 262-6100. www.louisboston.com.

  Saks Fifth Avenue, Armani, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, and Michael Kors are all at Prudential Plaza, Back Bay (617) 262-8500.

  Neiman Marcus. Needs no explanation! 5 Copley Place, Back Bay (617) 536-3660.

  Alan Bilzerian, posh and high-tech refuge with Yohji Yamamoto, Ann Demeulemeester, and John Galliano on the racks. 34 Newbury Street (617) 536-1001.

  Hermès. Another one that needs no intro! 22 Arlington Street, at Boylston Street, Back Bay (617) 482-8707.

  Ríccardi has all the bold chic there is: Vivienne Westwood, Thierry Mugler, Comme des Garçons, D & G, and Chrome Hearts. 116 Newbury Street (617) 266-3158.

  Serenella, the only Boston shopping pocket good enough for Narciso Rodriguez, along with Pucci, Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino, Ann Demeulemeester, Miu Miu, and Alaia. 134 Newbury Street (617) 266-5568.

  LAS VEGAS

  Tallulah G.: Strike it rich on the craps table and blow your wad on sexy Chloe, Marc Jacobs, Daryl K, Foley + Corinna, and other hard-to-find labels. And don’t worry about what time it is— they’re often open for high-rolling winners till midnight. Fashion Show Mall, 3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South (702) 737-6000, or Boca Park Fashion Village, 750 South Rampart Boulevard (702) 932-7000.