Growing at the Speed of Life

by Graham Kerr

  Pour into a saucepan and add the remaining beans, corn, tomatoes, chile, cayenne, cumin, and chili powder. Heat on medium for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep from sticking. Stir in half of the cilantro.

  Serve the black bean salsa over the artichokes, sprinkled with the remaining cilantro.

  Per serving: 212 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 46 g carbohydrate, 9 g protein, 7 dietary fiber, 136 mg sodium. Exchanges: 3 Starch, 1 Vegetable

  Kale

  Brassica oleracea var. acephala

  There are several important varieties of kale. Their differences are most obvious at first sight. The leaf is either tightly frilled at the edge or more open, broader, and longer, as in the Toscano variety, which I prefer.

  For a late-season crop, whichever one you choose, it’s really important to mark your garden calendar (you really need one!) to estimate the date of the first expected frost. Count back 6-8 weeks, and that is a good date to put in transplants that you can either order in advance from a local nursery or grow yourself from seed.

  Kale will, of course, also grow in the spring and early summer, but frankly if you get any kind of long bright sunny days in July and August, kale’s natural sweetness may be overtaken by an unacceptable bitterness.

  It seems that the colder the weather, the better the flavor—especially the young, tender inside leaves, which can be cut 2 inches off the ground and will grow back for a second crop.

  It seems so odd to me that kale’s flavor would be so much better after a pretty good frost. If you do cut it back, do so at least 2-3 weeks before the first frost in mild fall weather, and it should grow back in time for a second harvesting.

  Kale is hardy and will keep well in a plastic bag at 40ºF (refrigerated) for about 1-2 weeks.

  I remove the heavy stems and steam the leaves for 4-6 minutes to retain their brilliant color. I admit that the leaf is still chewy, but the sweetness of the winter crop is so good.

  The Numbers

  Kale can be extremely high in chlorophyll and carotenes, especially beta-carotene and lutein.

  For each 100 g cooked (3.5 oz; 1 cup): 28 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 6 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 23 mg sodium

  Kale

  Annual/Hardy/Cool Season

  Water: Heavy

  Sun: Full to partial shade

  Companion Planting:

  PRO: Beets, bush beans, lettuce, herbs, spinach

  CON: Pole beans, strawberries, tomatoes

  Pests: Aphids, loopers, flea beetles, cutworms

  Diseases: Black rot, clubroot

  Soil: Compost well before planting in rich sandy loam with good drainage

  Fertilizer: Moderate; fish emulsion every 3-4 weeks

  pH: 5.5-6.8

  Varieties : Dwarf Blue Curled Vates (compact, curly),

  Lacinato (tall leaves), Toscano (flat, broad, sweet in the fall)

  Plant Care: When leaves grow to 6-8 inches, put straw mulch around base to avoid soil contact.

  Zones: 3-11

  Planting: Spring, seed ½ inch deep, 6-8 weeks before last frost; autumn, seed ½ inch deep, 6 weeks before first frost; 6 inches apart

  Germinate: 5-7 days

  Harvest: From seed, 55-75 days; from transplant, 30-40 days

  Rotation: Don’t follow cabbage family.

  Edible: Leaves

  STEAMED KALE

  This is a simple way to experience the great taste of kale. The chopped red bell pepper added to the kale before steaming lends a festive touch for a holiday dinner or for any dull winter day.

  SERVES 4

  1 pound kale, rinsed and heavy stems removed

  2 cups chopped red bell pepper (optional)

  ¼ teaspoon salt

  ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

  Place the kale in a steamer and add the red peppers. Sprinkle with the salt, black pepper, and lemon juice, and steam over boiling water for 4-6 minutes or until tender.

  Per serving: 43 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 8 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 3 g dietary fiber, 170 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1 Vegetable

  KALE AND APPLE SOUP

  This is a super fruit-and-vegetable combination, with a sweet, sour, and aromatic finish.

  SERVES 4

  2 cups low-sodium vegetable stock

  (see page 288)

  1 pound kale, carefully washed and stems

  removed (yield 4 cups packed)

  ¼ teaspoon salt

  ½ teaspoon ground cumin

  1 teaspoon packed dark brown sugar

  1 small Granny Smith apple, cored and

  chopped into ½-inch dice (yield 1 cup)

  ½ cup low-fat plain yogurt

  Bring the stock to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the kale, cover, turn down the heat, and simmer 8 minutes or until it is tender to the bite, with good color. In a food processor, whiz the cooked kale with a little of the liquid until smooth. Strain the processed kale and return to the pan, stirring it into the remaining liquid.

  Season with the salt, cumin, and brown sugar. Stir in the apple and simmer another 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the yogurt.

  Per serving: 81 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 16 g carbohydrate, 4 g protein, 3 g dietary fiber, 260 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1 Carbohydrate

  SOOKE SOUP

  Here is an example of a soup that can provide enough interest and sustenance to become, with a side salad and great bread, an evening meal.

  SERVES 6

  FOR THE YOGURT SAUCE

  ¼ cup yogurt cheese (see page 290)

  1 tablespoon dealcoholized white wine

  ½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

  1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives

  ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  ⅛ teaspoon salt

  ¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

  FOR THE SOUP

  2 Granny Smith apples, cored and peeled

  1 tablespoon extra-light olive oil

  Dash sesame oil

  ⅓ cup chopped onion

  1 garlic clove, smashed and diced

  6 cups low-sodium vegetable stock

  (see page 288)

  ½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

  4 cups peas, blanched 4 minutes

  2 cups curly kale leaves, heavy stalks

  removed

  ¼ cup cornstarch, mixed with ½ cup nonfat

  milk (slurry)

  12 ounces smoked white fish, chopped into

  small pieces

  FOR THE GARNISH

  1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

  1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

  ¼ teaspoon cayenne

  To prepare the yogurt sauce, combine the yogurt cheese, wine, thyme, and chives in a small bowl, stirring until all lumps have disappeared. Stir in the black pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and set aside.

  To make the soup, slice one of the apples and dice the other.

  In a large stew pot, heat the oils and sauté the onion and garlic for 2 minutes. Add the sliced apple, stirring to coat. Add the stock and thyme, bring to a boil, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the peas.

  In a steamer, cook the kale for 3-4 minutes. The kale will turn a beautiful bright green. Remove and cut into very fine strips. Keep cool for later use.

  Puree the soup in a food processor or blender. Pass the pureed soup through a mesh sieve and return the sieved puree to the stew pot. Stir in the slurry and bring just to a boil, stirring constantly until thickened. Add the diced apple, fish, and kale; heat through about 3 minutes until the fish is firm.

  To serve, spoon the soup into individual serving bowls and garnish with the chives, thyme, and cayenne. Dollop a spoonful of yogurt sauce on top and enjoy!

  Per serving: 254 calories, 3 g fat, 1 g saturated fat (4% calories from saturated fat), 33 g carbohydrate, 21 g protein, 7 g dietary fiber, 794 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1 Starch, 1 Very Lean Meat, 1 Vegetable

/>   Kohlrabi

  Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes

  Compare the Latin names of kohlrabi and kale and you’ll see that they are almost identical. Both are Brassica oleracea, but there the similarity definitely ends because kohlrabi’s variety name is (and I really love this) gongylodes—what a splendid description for the smooth, round, almost spaceship-like bulb that grows with kale-like smooth leaves aboveground.

  Kohlrabi is actually a hybrid that looks for all the world like a pale green turnip root with blue-green leaves. In fact, the name suggests such a combination because kohl is German for “cabbage” and rübi means “turnip.”

  If you decide that your kitchen garden should include a few somewhat unusual plants, then by all means devote a couple of feet to kohlrabi. They are an attention grabber when you do the grand tour of your raised beds with visitors! And if you plant several in different beds, it could help with insect control.

  Kohlrabi’s flavor does best when the plant grows quickly. I would suggest that you try the cultivar called Rapid, as it can be ready in 25 days after transplanting. And the best size is like a small apple, about 2½ inches in diameter.

  The leaves can be cooked as you would kale. The bulb, or gong, can be steamed whole or finely sliced and quartered as an addition to a stir-fry in much the same way you’d use water chestnuts, but with more flavor.

  The Numbers

  If you are prone to producing kidney stones, then you might want to stick with only smaller portions. The problem is oxalate. Some people absorb higher levels than others. If you have a family history of kidney stones, you may want to have a simple test to see if you take in more than the 3 to 8 percent that’s normal. If it’s high, then you might want to put a 50-milligram-per-day limit on yourself.

  For each 100 g raw (3.5 oz; ½ cup): 27 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 6 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 4 g dietary fiber, 20 mg sodium

  Kohlrabi

  Biennial/Annual/Hardy/Cool Season

  Water: Moderate

  Sun: Full to partial shade

  Companion Planting:

  PRO: Beets, beans, celery, cucumbers, onions

  CON: Pole beans, strawberries

  Pests: Aphids, loopers, flea beetles, cutworms

  Diseases: yellows, mildew

  Soil: Lots of good compost in rich sandy loam or silt loam with good drainage

  Fertilizer: When 3-4 inches tall, apply a topdressing of a moderate amount of fertilizer

  pH: 5.5-6.8

  Varieties : Rapid (early), Purple Danube (midseason)

  Zones: 3-11

  Planting: Seed ¼-½ inch deep (early season), 4 weeks before last frost; 1 inch apart; thin to 5-8 inches; the gong, or bulb, will grow above the ground; when about 2-3 inches, cut off at the roots to avoid woodiness

  Germinates: 5-10 days

  Harvest: From seed, 45-60 days; from transplant, 25-35 days

  Rotation: Don’t follow cabbage family.

  Edible: Bulb stem (gong) and leaves

  SAUTÉED KOHLRABI

  This makes a wonderful nest for grilled fish and is a deliciously light side dish for summer barbecues and winter roasts.

  SERVES 4

  8 small kohlrabi bulbs, grated (yield 4 cups)

  1 teaspoon olive oil

  ¼ teaspoon salt

  ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

  Trim the stems and leaves from the kohlrabi. Remove the stems from the leaves, discard, and save the leaves for soups, pasta sauces, or stews. Peel the bulbs with a potato peeler and grate coarsely by hand or in a food processor.

  Heat the oil in a high-sided skillet over medium-high; add the shredded kohlrabi and cook, stirring often, 3-4 minutes or until tender. Season with salt and black pepper, and toss with the lemon juice.

  Per serving: 48 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 9 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 5 g dietary fiber, 166 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Vegetable

  NONSUCH POËLE

  I named this take on the French classic after our own cottage—and Henry VIII’s extravagant folly of a castle. It really is a cottage-castle combination of subtle and big flavors. A poële is initially sautéed, followed by partial poaching in a well-seasoned stock, and then steamed, which results in a grand sharing of flavors by all the ingredients.

  SERVES 4

  1 teaspoon olive oil

  1 cup chopped sweet onion

  1 tablespoon finely chopped gingerroot

  2 garlic cloves, bashed and chopped

  1 parsnip, cut into 1-inch dice (yield ½ cup)

  1 carrot, cut into 1-inch dice (yield ½ cup)

  1 kohlrabi bulb, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice (yield ½ cup)

  1 turnip, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice

  (yield ½ cup)

  2 celery ribs, sliced (yield ½ cup)

  1 small orange sweet potato, peeled and cut

  into 1-inch dice (yield ½ cup)

  1 teaspoon herbes de Provence

  1 cup low-sodium vegetable stock (see page 288)

  8 tiny cherry tomatoes

  ½ cup diagonally cut snow peas

  2 teaspoons arrowroot or cornstarch mixed

  with 2 tablespoons water (slurry)

  1 tablespoon freshly grated Parmesan cheese

  1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

  Heat the oil in a large high-sided skillet over medium-high. Sauté the onion and ginger 3 minutes or until the onion begins to turn translucent. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more.

  Add the parsnip, carrot, kohlrabi, turnip, celery, sweet potato, and herbes de Provence. Pour in the stock, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer 10 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

  Add the tomatoes and snow peas. Stir in the slurry and heat to thicken. Serve topped with Parmesan cheese and parsley.

  Per serving: 90 calories, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 16 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 4 g dietary fiber, 95 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Vegetable

  Leek

  Allium porrum

  Cultivated in ancient Egypt, the leek is a member of the onion family and has quite a history in more modern times as well. Since about 640 CE, following a Saxon battle that is commemorated as St. David’s Day (March 1) in Wales, Welshmen have worn a leek in their headgear to defend against friendly fire from fellow Welshmen. These were obviously discreet enough not to attract the enemy, as would the giant leeks of today, which, if worn in the hat, would have been more of a fashion statement!

  In growing leeks, the main task is to keep them white and tender. Both goals are met by planting them in a trench and gradually heaping light sandy soil (or dense mulch) up the stalk until the green leaves begin to branch outward in a V shape. You can get up to an 8-inch white stalk this way, and provided that the soil remains damp, you should have a tender shoot.

  If it gets hot, the outer skin might become tough, but you can peel it away and put it into the compost. As with other members of the onion family, such as garlic, it’s a good idea to keep all discarded vegetation in a separate compost that’s not used to feed any other plant in the onion family. This is due to a whole raft of diseases that can inflict onions but are much less likely to cause problems with leeks.

  I’ve always enjoyed a leek and potato soup. I had it in Paris on my first overseas trip. The soft, sweet leeks and pure white new potatoes soaked up the cream like perfect tiny sponges: rich, smooth, and delicious. Why is it that evaporated skim milk just doesn’t match up to my memories! On the other hand, I think my leeks are sweeter!

  The Numbers

  For each 100 g boiled (3.5 oz; ½ cup): 31 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 8 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 1 g dietary fiber, 10 mg sodium

  Leek

  Biennial/Annual/Hardy/Cool Season

  Water: Moderate

  Sun: Full to partial shade

  Companion Planting:

  PRO: Beets, carrots, garlic, onions, tomatoes

&n
bsp; CON: Beans, peas

  Pests: Thrips, root maggots

  Diseases: None

  Soil: Fertile, loose, rich humus; well composted 3 months before transplanting

  Fertilizer: Moderate nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium; side-dress every 2 weeks with fish fertilizer

  pH: 6.0-6.8

  Varieties: American Flag, Blue Solaise (sweet), Nebraska (cold, hardy)

  Zones: 3-10

  Planting: Seed ¼ inch deep (indoors), 4 weeks before last frost

  Germinates : 8-16 days

  Harvest: From seed, 120-170 days; from transplant, set out in the spring after last frost, 6 inches apart

  Rotation: Don’t follow onions, garlic, chives

  Edible: White stalk and to lesser degree the lower leaves

  BRAISED LEEKS

  This is a very simple side dish with great flavor and texture.

  SERVES 4

  8 small or 4 large leeks

  1 teaspoon olive oil

  1 cup low-sodium vegetable stock

  (see page 288)

  Cut off the curly root ends of the leeks as well as the upper green leaves. Discard the roots and save the greens for stock. Remove the two outer sheaths, which can trap dirt as the leek grows. Wash carefully, dislodging any dirt hiding in the next few sheaths. If you have to use large leeks, cut them in half lengthwise and clean carefully.

  Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high. Sauté the leeks to brown slightly. Pour in the stock until the leeks are half covered, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer 30 minutes or until tender.

  Per serving: 97 calories, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 20 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 3 g dietary fiber, 62 mg sodium. Exchanges: 3 Vegetable

  LEEK, BEAN, AND SPINACH SOUP

  What a splendid kitchen-garden soup for late summer, when our beans have matured in their pods!