by Graham Kerr
ROMAINE SALAD
Romaine is my favorite lettuce for sheer crispness, and most of the leaves are darker green, which confirms added vitamin content.
SERVES 4
1 head romaine lettuce, cut (yield 4 cups)
1 cup orange segments
¼ cup chopped green onions
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
Remove and discard the battered outside leaves of the romaine. Pull off the leaves and wash carefully. Dry in a salad spinner or colander and cut into bite-size pieces.
Place the lettuce in a large bowl with the orange segments, green onions, salt, black pepper, oil, and vinegar. Toss well and serve.
Per serving: 65 calories, 4 g fat, 1 g saturated fat (14% calories from saturated fat), 7 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 148 mg sodium. Exchanges: ½ Fruit, 1 Fat
Mâche
Valerianella locusta
This tiny plant—only 3 inches high and up to 4 inches wide—is a relative newcomer to the produce market, and since it’s so small, it only takes a couple of months to reach maturity.
Also known as corn salad, it’s been well known in Europe since Roman times and makes a great green salad all on its own, but most often it’s included in a mesclun (spring) mix. In addition, it can be used as a garnish in place of parsley (as a whole plant when small).
Mâche has a remarkable ability as a groundcover to keep down weeds, so it’s especially useful to scratch in a few seeds around garlic, onions, and peppers, and in the midst of a slightly wider spaced strawberry patch.
The soil needs to be 50ºF-70ºF (no higher) when seeding. Allow for a 3- to 4-inch spacing if you are setting out a special bed (rather than the useful seed-cover crops put out around other crops).
Because of their very shallow roots, you’ll need to keep the soil moist and provide partial shade when it gets above 80ºF in the summer.
The roots are less than 1 inch, so they are simply cut off at soil level. Then you can turn the soil and reseed for a second—or third—crop, since it grows so rapidly.
The Numbers
For each 100 g (3.5 oz; 1 cup): 21 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 4 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 4 mg sodium
Mâche
Annual/Tender/Cool Season
Water: Moist soil, deep irrigation
Sun: Full to partial shade
Companion Planting:
PRO: Carrots, onions, strawberries
CON: None
Pests: None (if you’ve fenced out the rabbits!)
Diseases: None
Soil: Humus-rich, good drainage
Fertilizer: Low nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium
pH: 6.0-7.0
Varieties: Grosse Graine, Broad Leaf
Zones: 2-6
Planting: Seed ¼ inch deep, 2 inches apart; thin to 4 inches
Germinates: 7-10 days
Harvest: 60-75 days
Rotation: Don’t follow radicchio, endive, artichokes
Edible: Leaves
MCHE WITH BERRIES
This is a lovely seasonal salad with your own or very fresh local berries. The dressing is deliberately light so as not to overwhelm the tender young leaves.
SERVES 4
4 cups mâche
1⅓ cup strawberries, blackberries, blueberries,
or raspberries
¼ cup roughly chopped toasted walnuts
FOR THE DRESSING
¼ cup berry vinegar
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place the mâche, berries, and nuts in a large bowl.
Combine the vinegar, oil, salt, and black pepper in a small bowl. Pour over the salad and toss well.
Per serving: 143 calories, 12 g fat, 1 g saturated fat (6% calories from saturated fat), 7 g carbohydrate, 3 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 149 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1 Vegetable, ½ Fruit, 2 Fat
MCHE, GOAT CHEESE, AND BLUEBERRY SALAD
Mâche can be harvested when quite small as a miniature lettuce. Usually 2-3 small heads can be well washed and served whole. In this case, the colors and tastes are truly elegant.
SERVES 4
8-12 small mâche heads, washed well and left
whole
4 tablespoons prepared light ranch dressing
2 ounces crumbled goat cheese
2 ounces pine nuts, lightly pan-toasted
4 ounces fresh blueberries or 2 ounces dried
Toss the mâche heads in the ranch dressing. Carefully fold in the goat cheese, pine nuts, and blueberries.
Serve quite cold as a first course or side salad.
Per serving: 192 calories, 14 g fat, 3 g saturated fat (14% calories from saturated fat), 12 g carbohydrate, 7 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 221 mg sodium
Mustard Greens
Brassica juncea var. rugosa
If you’ve ever put a lettuce leaf in a sandwich, like the L in BLT, then prepare to welcome a new arrival with open arms because here comes its splendid replacement: the young, tender mustard leaf of the cabbage family.
With its mild bite, fresh mustard greens can take the place of mustard pastes and, in so doing, provide a remarkable instant upgrade to the standard slather of bright yellow mustard. (How’s that for a sales pitch?)
The plant itself is a native of the Himalayan regions of India, where some of the oldest written recipes in the world record its cultivation over 5,000 years ago. It grows quite tall—up to 2 feet—though not nearly as high as its cousin the Brussels sprout (see page 96), and needs 10-12 inches of clear soil space in each direction to flourish.
Like most of the bigger, deeper-green leafed plants, they tend to bolt in hot sunny days, so I’m inclined to plant them out for a fall crop, when “the cooler the sweeter” rule comes into play.
If you are fond of rice dishes, such as pilaf, risotto, and fried rice, then finely slice (chiffonade) the leaves and stir them into the very hot rice during the last minutes of cooking. It will truly be a shot to the taste buds—and it looks wonderful.
The Numbers
Mustard greens have excellent levels of antioxidants, vitamins C and E, carotenes, and glucosinolates. But be careful if you are prone to kidney stones.
For each 100 g raw (3.5 oz; 1 cup): 26 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 5 g carbohydrate, 3 g protein, 3 g dietary fiber, 25 mg sodium
Mustard Greens
Perennial/Annual/Cool Season
Water: Keep soil moist, drip irrigation
Sun: Full, shade if over 80ºF
Companion Planting:
PRO: Peas, beans, carrots, onions, spinach, lettuce, herbs
CON: None
Pests: Aphids, flea beetles
Diseases: Mildew, white rust
Soil: Moist, richly composted
Fertilizer: High nitrogen, moderate phosphorus, potassium
pH: 5.5-6.8
Varieties: Florida Broadleaf (mild), Osaka Purple (quite robust), Tatsoi (spoon-shaped, dark green leaves)
Zones: 2-8
Planting: Seed ¼ inch deep in late summer (6-8 weeks before first frost) for winter harvest, 1 inch apart; thin to 4-6 inches
Germinates : 4-6 days
Harvest: 30-40 days, when the inner leaves 3-4 inches long (the outer/lower leaves make good compost)
Rotation: Don’t follow or precede other cabbage family plants
Edible: Leaves
STEAMED MUSTARD GREENS
These greens make a wonderful accompaniment to black-eyed peas and rice or to ham and cornbread.
SERVES 4
1 pound mustard greens
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Wash mustard greens in lots of cold water. Remove the stems and chop.
Steam over boiling water 5-7 minutes, until ten
der and still green. Sprinkle with lemon juice and serve.
Per serving: 30 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 6 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 4 g dietary fiber, 28 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1 Vegetable
CHINESE MUSTARD GREEN SOUP
A delight when you’re fresh from the rainsoaked garden. This will warm you through and through with its mild bite.
SERVES 4
4 cups low-sodium vegetable stock
(see page 288)
1 tablespoon grated gingerroot
2 cups sliced mushrooms
4 cups trimmed and sliced mustard greens, cut
into ½×2-inch pieces
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce
¼ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil
2 cups cooked long-grain brown rice, hot
Bring the stock and ginger to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the mushrooms and mustard greens, and cook 3 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce, salt, and sesame oil. Place a half cup of rice in each of 4 bowls. Ladle the soup over the top and enjoy!
Per serving: 162 calories, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 30 g carbohydrate, 5 g protein, 4 g dietary fiber, 458 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1½ Starch, 1 Vegetable
SPAGHETTI WITH MUSTARD GREENS AND VEGETARIAN ITALIAN SAUSAGE
Another great Italian invention for serious fall and winter eating! Great taste, aroma, color, and texture—it is all here in one dish.
SERVES 4
½ pound dry spaghetti
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
2 garlic cloves, bashed and chopped
2 low-fat vegetarian Italian sausages,* cut into
½-inch pieces
¼ teaspoon fennel seeds
8 cups chopped mustard green leaves (from
2 bunches) or 2 packages frozen
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
*Please be sure to taste first. They almost always come fully cooked. Just check the label—there are both good and awful concoctions, so be careful.
Cook the spaghetti according to the package directions. Drain and keep warm in a colander over a bowl of hot water.
Heat the oil in a high-sided skillet over medium-high. Sauté the onion 2 minutes or until it begins to turn translucent. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute more. Toss in the sausage and fennel seeds, and cook 2 minutes or until lightly browned on the outside.
Stir in the mustard greens, cover, and cook over low about 5 minutes until they wilt but are still bright green. Toss with the spaghetti and season with salt, black pepper, vinegar, and red pepper flakes. Serve with Parmesan cheese sprinkled over the top.
Per serving: 316 calories, 4 g fat, 1 g saturated fat (3% calories from saturated fat), 56 g carbohydrate, 14 g protein, 6 g dietary fiber, 299 mg sodium. Exchanges: 3 Starch, 2 Vegetable
Napa Cabbage
Brassica rapa var. pekinensis
Tall, straight, pale yellow, dense, ruffled, crisp, and mild tending to sweet, the incredible Napa cabbage is also known as Chihili or Michihili.
A native of Asia, it was first planted in California’s Napa Valley—largely for Chinese and Asian immigrants, but it caught on rapidly and is now widely cultivated. Because of its density, height, and rapid growth, it makes an ideal commercial crop; but without much fuss, it does well in the small kitchen garden pound for pound against other greens.
Because it is crisp and tender and sweet, it makes a perfect bed for salads. It can be tossed in a light dressing and brightened with finely chopped mixed-colored sweet bell peppers and green onions.
Napa also has enough genuine character to withstand a swift stir-fry without losing most of its bulk. It can be a very refreshing main dish when stirred up using the salad ingredients just listed.
I didn’t have room this year to try it out, but I’m planning for it in year two as an autumn crop, to be sown in mid-August, with a late September transplanting, to let it sweeten in the cooler evenings and avoid the typical summer bolting.
I’ve chosen the variety called Tenderheart because it has all the qualities of taste and texture of the larger China Express variety, packed into a miniature dense and crisp head weighing about 2 pounds.
Young leaves have far superior flavor and are best when harvested at about 5 inches tall.
When days are long and hot, expect rapid bolting, so it’s best to cut early and use in salads and slaws.
The Numbers
Contains a nutrient initially thought to be vitamin U, now known as the amino acid glutamine, which appears to do a good job in regenerating cells in the gastrointestinal tract.
For each 100 g raw (3.5 oz; 1 cup): 20 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 3 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 1 g dietary fiber, 13 mg sodium
Napa Cabbage
Biennial/Annual/Cool Season
Water: Moderate, frequent
Sun: Full (6 hours minimum)
Companion Planting:
PRO: Beets, lettuce, onions, spinach
CON: Tomatoes, peppers, okra, potatoes
Pests: Aphids, flea beetles, slugs
Diseases: Yellows, clubroot, black root
Soil : Well-drained, rich humus, clay loam
Fertilizer: Heavy feeder
pH: 6.5-7.5
Varieties: Tokyo Giant, Wintertime, pe-tsai, Tenderheart (special for small gardens)
Zones: 3-5
Planting: Seed ¼ inch deep, 10-12 weeks before first frost or midsummer for autumn
Germinate: 4-10 days
Rotation: Avoid following cabbage family
Edible: Leaves
CHINESE NEW YEAR FRESH FISH AND VEGETABLE SOUP
The noodles are a vital part of a New Year’s celebration in China. They can be reduced by half if the carbs are a challenge.
SERVES 8
1 pound rice noodles or other flat noodles, such as fettuccine
8 cups low-sodium vegetable stock
(see page 288)
4 ounce fresh gingerroot, peeled and slivered
1 teaspoon rice vinegar (optional)
1 teaspoon sesame oil (optional)
1 teaspoon low-sodium soy sauce
1½ pounds firm white fish fillets, such as
halibut, orange roughy, or red snapper, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup chopped Napa cabbage
2 cups halved fresh snow peas
½ cup shredded carrots
1 cup sliced baby bok choy
¼ cup roasted unsalted chopped peanuts or sesame seeds
Cook the noodles according to package directions.
Heat the stock in a large pot over medium heat, and simmer the ginger in it for 5 minutes. Add vinegar, sesame oil, and soy sauce. Bring the stock to a simmer and add the fish. Bring the stock back to a simmer, cover, and poach the fish about 6 minutes per inch of thickness until done and the flesh flakes easily. Remove the fish from the stock, transfer it to a plate, and cover to keep warm.
Add the cabbage, snow peas, and carrots to the pot, cover, and cook 7 minutes. Add the bok choy to the pot, cover, and cook 3 minutes more. Gently stir the fish back into the pot. Ladle the soup over the noodles and garnish with peanuts or sesame seeds.
Per serving: 406 calories, 11 g fat, 2 g saturated fat (4% calories from saturated fat), 51 g carbohydrate, 24 g protein, 3 g dietary fiber, 987 mg sodium. Exchanges: 3 Starch, 2 Lean Fish, 1 Vegetable
PHO
Every so often I find a recipe that is so good, I can’t imagine a change that would be of benefit. This version of the Thai classic recipe was inspired by Stephanie Lyness, who does excellent recipe development. I have made adjustments to make it vegetable only.
SERVES 6
6 cups low-sodium vegetable stock
(see page 288)
4 garlic cloves, bashed
2-inch piece
gingerroot, sliced and bruised with a knife
2 star anise pods or 1 teaspoon anise seeds
(optional)
3 tablespoons Thai fish sauce or tamari
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
½ pound large white mushrooms, cut into
½-inch-thick slices and bundled in a piece of cheesecloth
½ pound thick rice noodles
½ Napa cabbage, cut in half lengthwise and crosswise into thin strips
2 scallions, sliced
12 large mint leaves, thinly sliced
12 sprigs cilantro, thinly sliced
4 large basil leaves, thinly sliced
1 large lime, cut into 6 wedges
To make the broth, combine the stock, garlic, ginger, anise, fish sauce, soy sauce, and sugar in a chef’s pan or large saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and let simmer 10 minutes. Drop the mushroom bundle into the simmering broth and simmer 20 minutes longer. Remove the mushrooms and set aside. Strain the broth and return it to the pan over low heat.
While the broth is simmering, bring water to a boil in a large pasta pan. Pull it off the heat, add the noodles, and let them soak 10-15 minutes until tender. Drain and keep the noodles warm in a colander over hot water.
Add the cabbage to the simmering broth and stir. Divide the noodles among six warm bowls. Place the mushrooms on top of the noodles. Ladle the broth with the barely cooked cabbage over the top. Combine the scallions with the fresh herbs and scatter over each serving. Serve with a lime wedge.
Per serving: 195 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 40 g carbohydrate, 5 g protein, 3 g dietary fiber, 943 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Starch, 1 Vegetable
