by Graham Kerr
New Zealand Spinach
Tetragonia tetragonioides
It would appear that Captain Cook’s botanical associate Sir Joseph Banks first discovered this fleshy spinach, which is not, in fact, related to the spinach we all know.
Banks suggested that the pods had floated in from somewhere in the South Pacific, taken root, and flourished in the hotter, more humid coasts of Australia and New Zealand, where ordinary spinach would have wilted away.
I decided to follow my planting of common spinach after its spring season (and avoid its bolting in the hot weather) with the moreresilient, denser-leafed New Zealand plant.
It is sown in the spring, when the possibility of a late frost has definitely passed. Unlike spinach, it really loves hot summer weather. Start them off ½-inch deep and 6 inches apart; when they are 2-3 inches high, thin them out. (They work well when small in mesclun-style lettuce mixes.) Eventually they’ll need up to 20 inches of breathing room.
New Zealand spinach also works very well as a steaming green because, like chard and kale, it doesn’t wind up on the bottom of a saucepan in a deep green shrivel.
The Numbers
For each 100 g raw (3.5 oz; 1 cup): 14 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 3 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 130 mg sodium
New Zealand Spinach
Annual/Hot Season
Water: Evenly moist; water regularly for rapid, full growth; do not let the soil dry out
Sun: Full; partial shade in afternoon in very hot climates
Companion Planting:
PRO: Strawberries
CON: Avoid planting in shade of tall plants, such as corn or pole beans
Pests: None
Diseases: None
Soil: Prefers moisture-retentive, well-drained soil rich in organic matter; prepare planting beds with aged compost
Fertilizer: Side-dress plants with compost at midseason
pH: 6.8-7.0
Varieties: Maori (the most commonly grown)
Zones: 6 and warmer
Planting: Seed ½ inch deep, and 1 inch apart, at warm time of year. Indoors: 2-3 weeks before last frost in spring for later transplanting; thin to 3-4 inches. Sow in the garden around the date of average last frost in spring.
Germinates: 14-21 days
Harvest: From seed, 55-65 days
Rotation: Do not follow legumes
Edible: Leaves
HOPPIN’ JOHN
The classic dish uses collard greens and ham hocks, but I have replaced them with New Zealand spinach, a hardy green that weathers the summer sun, doesn’t lose as much bulk when heated as does traditional spinach, and isn’t as washed out as long-cooked collards. The ham hock smokiness is replaced with smoked paprika.
SERVES 6
FOR THE PEAS
1 cup dry black-eyed peas
3-4 cups water for soaking (or 5 cups water for quick-soaking)
1 teaspoon nonaromatic olive oil
1 large sweet onion, chopped (2 cups)
3 garlic cloves, bashed and chopped
1 rib celery, chopped (½ cup)
4 cups low-sodium vegetable stock
(see page 288)
½ teaspoon dried thyme
2 bay leaves
1 cup raw long-grain white rice
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
⅛ teaspoon cayenne
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
¼ teaspoon salt (optional)
3 heaping tablespoons chopped parsley
FOR THE SPINACH
½ teaspoon nonaromatic olive oil
½ lemon sliced
1 dried red chile or ⅛ teaspoon cayenne
2 cups low-sodium vegetable stock
(see page 288)
8 cups washed and stemmed New Zealand
spinach, torn into 2-inch pieces
1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
Pick over and rinse the black-eyed peas, then cover them with 3-4 cups of water and soak overnight. To quick-soak, bring to a boil, turn off the heat, and let set, covered, for 1 hour.
Heat 1 teaspoon oil in a 10½-inch chef’s pan over medium-high. Sauté the onion 3 minutes, then add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Stir in the celery, 4 cups of stock, thyme, bay leaves, rice, soaked black-eyed peas, cloves, and cayenne. Bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer. Add the paprika and cook for 20 minutes or until the rice and peas are tender but not mushy.
While the peas are cooking, prepare the spinach. Heat the oil in a chef’s pan over medium-high. Lay the lemon slices and red chile in the pan and cook 2 minutes. Pour in 2 cups of stock and the spinach, and boil gently 3 minutes. Stir in the zest, salt, and lemon juice, and set aside until you are ready to serve.
When the peas are done, taste for salt and add if needed. Stir in the chopped parsley, and you are ready to serve. Divide the spinach among 6 hot bowls. Pour the liquid left in the pan into the rice and pea mixture. Ladle the hoppin’ John onto the spinach, and you are ready for a real down-home treat!
Per serving: 258 calories, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 50 g carbohydrate, 10 g protein, 6 g dietary fiber, 401 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 ½ Starch, 2 Vegetable
STIR-FRIED MIXED GREENS
This is a delicious way to celebrate the greens. Please leave final step until the last moment before serving. It deserves a standing ovation.
SERVES 4
2 cups collard greens
2 cups Swiss chard
4 cups New Zealand spinach
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, bashed and chopped
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 teaspoons ground cumin
Juice of 1 lemon (¼ cup)
¼ teaspoon salt
You can do this first step ahead of time. Place the collards in a large steamer over boiling water. Steam 2 minutes, add the Swiss chard, and steam 2 minutes more. Now add the spinach and steam 4 minutes longer. When the greens are tender, turn them out into a sieve and squeeze out the excess liquid with the back of a wooden spoon. Chop roughly.
Just before serving, combine the oil, garlic, parsley, cilantro, cumin, and lemon juice in a large skillet. Warm, add the chopped greens and salt, and mix thoroughly. Serve immediately, while the greens are still bright and beautiful.
Per serving: 59 calories, 4 g fat, 1 g saturated fat (15% calories from saturated fat), 6 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 265 mg sodium. Exchanges: 3 Vegetable, 1 Fat
Onion
Allium cepa
I should warn you that onions, perhaps more than any other garden crop, are susceptible to both disease and pests, especially if planted as sets, which are immature bulbs (like tiny green onions). If you select small bulbs (about 1 inch or less in diameter), they will take longer, but you should be more successful. Look out for disease-resistant varieties.
I find the derivation of the word onion quite delightful. Apparently it comes from the Latin unio, whose literal meaning is “single large pearl.” I will never look at or handle an onion in the same way again.
Onions are taken at three stages of growth. They reach green onion/scallion stage in up to 35 days and have a stem width of about ½ inch. If intended for such use, they can be planted quite close together (1-2 inches).
Leave them alone (or thin them out to have 2-3 inches of clearance), and they’ll reach what is called bunching, when the bulbs are 1-2 inches in diameter.
Leave them completely alone for 3-4 months, and you’ll have the mature onion, when the green tops turn brown and dry out. The bulb will be 3-4 inches in diameter.
To avoid crying, chill the onion in the deep freeze for 30 minutes before cutting. This works for me, but then I’m 6 feet 2 inches tall—my eyes are 3 feet away from the onion!
Onions are called photo-periodic plants. Long-day varieties should be planted as early
as possible to make use of maximum daylight to form a good-size bulb. Short-day varieties actually need less light, so they go into the ground in the fall. Long days are best when above 36 degrees latitude. A new breed has arrived called day neutral, and guess what? It doesn’t matter when you plant those.
The Numbers
Onions are a good source of vitamins C, B6, and K.
For each 100 g raw (3.5 oz; ½ cup): 40 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 9 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 1 g dietary fiber, 4 mg sodium
Biennial/Annual/Cool Season
Water: Medium/even, drip irrigation
Sun: Full
Companion Planting:
PRO: Beets, cabbage, carrots, early lettuce, strawberries, tomatoes
CON: All beans, peas, sage
Pests: Japanese beetles, slugs, thrips, cutworms
Diseases: Botrytis, mildew, white rot
Soil: Well-drained, sandy; avoid heavy clay
Fertilizer: Mature compost; moderate nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium; fish emulsion for early growth (when 4-6 leaves appear), then every 2-3 weeks
pH: 6.0-6.8
Varieties:
LONG DAY (14-15 hours of light): Early Yellow Globe, Sweet Spanish
SHORT DAY (10-12 hours of light): Bermuda, Grano Super Sweet
DAY NEUTRAL: Candy, Super Star (mild white), Red Candy Apple (red)
CELEBRITY ONIONS (very sweet): Walla Walla, Vidalia
Plant Care: Check locally for the best advice on suitable varieties, especially those that resist your local diseases
Zones: 3-11
Planting: Indoors, 8 weeks before last frost; seed ¼-½ inch deep
Transplanting: For green onions/scallions, 1-2 inches apart; for bunching, 2-3 inches apart. If started as seed (very small), the bulb will be larger and store better. If using bulbs, use those under 1 inch in diameter.
Germinates : 4-12 days
Harvest: From seed, 80-120 days; from transplant, 30-40 days; from scallions from sets, 35 days
Rotation: Don’t plant in beds used by garlic
Edible: Bulb and leaves
Onion
SWEATING THE ONION
Many people never get the full flavor benefit from an onion because they avoid sweating them, breaking out their volatile oils, at a pan temperature around 350ºF. If you use too cool a pan, the water breaks out but not the full flavors that a properly sweated onion can deliver.
CARAMELIZED ONIONS
The sweetness of the onion turns to a caramel when shallow-fried. This couldn’t be more simple and is the perfect way to prepare onions for inclusion in many cooked dishes, such as warm salads, spaghetti sauce, or vegetables and rice. And, of course, it is a traditional robust garnish for many foods.
SERVES 4
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 pound onions, peeled and sliced (the sweeter
the variety the better)
Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over medium. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and browned, 20 minutes.
Per serving: 56 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 11 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 5 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Vegetable
BAKED SWEET ONIONS
Each region has its own celebrity sweet onion, but all will work well with this simple recipe.
SERVES 4
4 medium sweet onions
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
¼ cup water
1 teaspoon arrowroot or cornstarch mixed with 2 teaspoons water (slurry)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Cut both ends off the onions and peel. Place in a small casserole. Combine the vinegar and water, and pour over the onions. Bake, uncovered, 45 minutes or until tender.
Place an onion on each of 4 hot plates and pour baking liquids into a small saucepan. Stir in the slurry and heat until the liquid is clear and glossy. Serve as a sauce over the onions. Sprinkle the onions with parsley.
Per serving: 73 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 17 g carbohydrate, 3 g dietary fiber, 5 mg sodium. Exchanges: 3 Vegetable
SAUTÉED ONIONS
An enhanced onion garnish with a definite maple flavor. These onions can be served on their own as a side dish, mixed with other vegetables, spooned over rice or pasta, or even added to baked beans.
SERVES 4
1 teaspoon olive oil
4 medium onions, peeled and sliced
1 tablespoon maple syrup
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
Heat the oil in a large high-sided skillet over medium-high. Sauté the onions 2 minutes. Add the syrup, vinegar, salt, and black pepper. Continue cooking, stirring often, 20-25 minutes or until the onions are golden, tender, and cooked down. Stir in the basil.
Per serving: 75 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 15 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 151 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Vegetable, ½ Carbohydrate
EAST VILLAGE POTATO AND ONION TART
This terrific vegetable tart topped with a rosemary glaze was one of the recipes I brought home from Angelica Kitchen in New York City. The wonderful combination of potatoes and caramelized onions is held together by a soft, luscious chickpea “custard.” The tart can be made in a deep quiche dish or pie plate.
SERVES 6
FOR THE CHICKPEA CUSTARD
6 cups cold water
2 cups chickpea flour
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper
Pinch of powdered saffron
½ teaspoon Southern France Ethmix
(see page 288) or dried thyme
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons capers
FOR THE TART
1 teaspoon light olive oil
1 pound sweet onions, cut into ½-inch dice
(yield 3 cups)
½ teaspoon caraway seeds
1 pound Yellow Finn or other waxy yellow potatoes, peeled and sliced
¼-inch thick
⅛ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon paprika
FOR THE ROSEMARY GLAZE
½ teaspoon light olive oil
½ cup sliced sweet onions
½ cup sliced shiitake mushrooms (¼-inch slices)
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
1½ cups low-sodium vegetable stock
(see page 288)
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon arrowroot mixed with
1 tablespoon water (slurry)
1 teaspoon low-sodium tamari
FOR THE GARNISH
¼ cup water
4 cups frozen peas (or freshly shucked)
2 sprigs mint
1 tablespoon sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
To make the custard, measure the water into a large nonstick saucepan. Slowly drizzle the chickpea flour into the cold water, beating constantly with a plastic whisk to keep lumps from forming. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring often.
Add the salt, white pepper, saffron, and spice mix. Stir to combine. Continue cooking slowly, stirring occasionally, 15-20 minutes or until the custard starts to thicken. Do not allow the mixture to thicken too much; it should be the consistency of pancake batter, not as stiff as polenta.
Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice and capers. Set aside.
To make the tart, warm the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high. Cook the onions and caraway seeds for about 10 minutes or until the onions are wilted and browned. Remove a generous ¼ cup of onions from the pan and set aside for later.
Reduce the heat to medium and add the potatoes to the pan. Season with the salt, black pepper, and vinegar. Co
ver and cook, stirring often, for 15 minutes or until potatoes are just tender.
Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the Parmesan cheese over the top of the potatoes and set aside.
Combine the ¼ cup of reserved onions with the remaining 2 tablespoons of Parmesan cheese and the paprika.
To assemble the tart, spray a 10-inch quiche dish or pie plate with cooking spray.
Pour half of the chickpea custard into the dish. Layer the potatoes over the custard, and then add the rest of the custard. Top with the reserved onion mixture. Gently press the onions down into the custard with a rubber spatula. Set aside to let rest for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 350ºF.
Bake the tart for 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside for 10 minutes to allow the contents to set before serving.
Make the glaze while the tart is baking. Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Sauté the onions until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the mushrooms and continue to sauté for another 2 minutes.
Add the rosemary, stock, and vinegar. Boil vigorously until reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Strain the liquid into a small saucepan, discarding the mushrooms and onions.
Add the slurry and the tamari to the saucepan, and stir over medium heat until the mixture clears and thickens. Taste and adjust the seasonings if necessary.
Make the garnish while the glaze is reducing. Bring the water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the peas, mint, sugar, and salt. Reduce the heat and simmer for 3-5 minutes until the peas are tender but still bright green. Discard the mint sprigs.
Arrange a bed of peas on each plate. Place a tart wedge on top of the peas. Spoon the rosemary glaze over the tart.
Per serving: 367 calories, 4 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, (10% calories from saturated fat), 57 g carbohydrate, 16 g protein, 10 g dietary fiber, 491 mg sodium. Exchanges: 3 Starch, 2 Vegetable, 1 Fat
BELLA BELLA BEANS
Beautiful, beautiful beans named for the beautiful, beautiful town of Bella Bella on the coast of British Columbia, which we once sailed to.
