Growing at the Speed of Life
Page 21
SERVE 6
FOR THE BEANS
1 teaspoon nonaromatic olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
2 garlic cloves, bashed and chopped
2 cups low-sodium vegetable stock (see page
288)
1 (15.5-ounce) can low-sodium chickpeas, rinsed and drained
6 cups trimmed and torn kale
1 (15.5-ounce) can low-sodium red kidney
beans, rinsed and drained
⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
FOR THE GARNISH
½ cup fresh oregano leaves
2 limes, cut in quarters
Dried crushed chili pepper flakes to taste
½ cup chopped onion
To make the beans, heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high. Sauté the onion 2 minutes, add the garlic, and cook 1 more minute. Pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Add the chickpeas, kale, and kidney beans. Bring back to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer 5 minutes.
Stir in the Parmesan cheese and serve in bowls. Pass the oregano leaves, limes, pepper flakes, and raw onions in individual bowls.
Per serving: 192 calories, 3 g fat, 1 g saturated fat (5% calories from saturated fat), 31 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 7 g dietary fiber, 183 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Starch, 2 Vegetable, ½ Fat
Parsnip
Pastinaca sativa
The parsnip was the root of choice in Europe and very popular in the New World until the late 19th century, when it got replaced by the potato. But it is still my favorite root vegetable. I love it for all kinds of reasons, but mostly for its taste and cooked texture: sweet and nutty and lusciously smooth and creamy.
When cultivating, be careful to thin out the roots early, as they need more space than carrots and a lot more time, which explains why they cost so much more than carrots. All this means they make a good candidate for the home garden.
You’ll need to start them as soon as the soil can be worked. The seed can germinate when the soil goes over 40ºF. I gave mine a monthly dose of liquid fish fertilizer and left them alone until late fall or winter. I cut off the green tops in the late fall as they wilted and covered the bed with mulch 4 inches deep. The difference in sweetness is remarkable. It’s important to dig out this late harvest crop entirely, since they become woody and fibrous if left for a second season.
One other odd fact is that they do not do well when the soil has been recently fertilized or has had a fresh manure application. It’s much better to lay on that kind of nourishment a year ahead, so that it matures and the nitrogen levels are lower. Too much nitrogen causes the parsnip to become hairy.
You’ll also need to do some digging to give the roots good, even soil density so that they can attain their full potential (up to 10 inches).
The Numbers
For each 100 g boiled (3.5 oz; ½ cup): 71 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 17 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 4 g dietary fiber, 10 mg sodium
Parsnip
Biennial/Annual/Cool Season
Water: Moderate, drip irrigation
Sun: Partial shade (5 hours of sun a day)
Companion Planting:
PRO: Bush beans, beets, carrots, other root vegetables
CON: Tomatoes, broccoli, cabbage, kale
Pests: Army worms, nematodes, root maggots
Diseases: None
Soil: Sandy, humus-rich, no stones, double dig down to 18 inches
Fertilizer: Low nitrogen, low phosphorus, and potassium
pH: 6.0-6.8
Varieties: White Gem (will grow in any soil), Gladiator (particularly sweet), Cobham (ideal to leave in ground over the winter unless you have really deep frost)
Zones: 3-10
Planting: Early summer for winter harvest; seed ¼-½ inch deep, 1 inch apart; thin to 3-4 inches
Germination: 5-28 days
Harvest: From seed, 95-120 days
Rotation: Don’t follow carrots, celery
Edible: Roots
PARSNIPS
Basic Preparation
For several years, I’ve literally blended parsnips into a sauce that I can characterize only as velvet by simply steaming the youngish, relatively small root until it’s very tender and then popping it into a blender with some evaporated skim milk (ratio 1 pound steamed parsnips to an 11-ounce can of milk) and whizzing it for 4-5 minutes until it develops a beautiful sheen. Add salt and white pepper.
I use it in place of a velouté-style sauce over noodles—or whatever you choose—and dust with freshly grated Parmesan cheese just before serving. (One tablespoon of cheese is enough to give the aromatic impression that it really is an Alfredo or Mornay sauce.) The dish can then be put under a hot broiler to “au gratin” it until it is dappled and deliciously golden brown.
You can use this concept of browned (au gratin) velvet sauces with all kinds of foods, from poached fish to cauliflower. If the dish to be dressed is basically white, the au gratin sauce will cover its bland appearance and also provide an interesting texture.
As an alternative to the parsnips, sweet potatoes can be used to get that mac ’n’ cheese look!
PAN-ROASTED PARSNIPS
While I had thought this was my absolute favorite way to prepare parsnips, since I’ve grown and then cooked my own, I know it’s the best!
SERVES 4
2¼ pounds parsnips
1 teaspoon nonaromatic olive oil
½ cup roughly chopped onion
1 garlic clove, bashed and chopped
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper
6-inch sprig fresh rosemary
½ cup low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock
(see page 288)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
Peel and cut the parsnips lengthwise into quarters, and slice crosswise into ¼-inch-thick wedges. Pour the oil into a high-sided skillet over medium-high. Add the onions, garlic, parsnips, salt, and white pepper, and stir to mix thoroughly. Sauté 2-3 minutes or until the vegetables just start to brown.
Bury the rosemary sprig in the cooking vegetables, pour in the stock, cover, and cook for 5 minutes or until the parsnips are as tender as you like them. Remove the rosemary and serve with a sprinkle of parsley.
Per serving: 129 calories, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 28 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 6 g dietary fiber, 179 mg sodium. Exchanges: 2 Starch, 5 Vegetable
THAI SPICED PARSNIPS
Just a slight Asian twist with a mild two-star bite!
SERVES 4
2 teaspoons nonaromatic olive oil
1 red chile
2-inch piece gingerroot, peeled and cut into thin slices
1 pound medium parsnips, peeled and cut into
¼-inch slices
1 cup low-sodium vegetable stock
(see page 288)
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon arrowroot or cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon Thai fish sauce (slurry)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh spearmint
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
Heat the oil in a high-sided skillet over medium-high. Sauté the red chile and ginger 2 minutes to break out the flavors. Add the parsnips and cook 5 minutes until golden brown.
Pour the stock into the skillet, cover, and cook until the parsnips are tender, about 10 minutes. Add the salt, remove the chile, and stir in the slurry. Heat to thicken and serve topped with the mint and sesame seeds.
Per serving: 126 calories, 4 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 22 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 5 g dietary fiber, 197 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1½ Starch, 1 Fat, 3 Vegetable
Peas
Pisum sativum
The Chinese have been cultivating peas on a grand scale for more than 4,000 years, and it isn’t just the snow pea that we usually associate with stir-fried Asian dishes.
Over the years, especially in recent times, we’ve grafted and otherwise crossbred several ancient varieties and come up with a set of apparently unbeatable characteristics.
The sugar snap pea comes from its rapidly growing bush (easier to harvest mechanically) or trellis (better, in my opinion for the small garden) to the plate, complete with pod and all.
The trellis allows for better air circulation than the bush and reduces Fusarium wilt, which turns the lower leaves brown. Peas don’t do well with overhead watering, so my new drip-feed line along with mulch at ground level has managed to keep the roots cool and retain moisture, thus defeating the wilt so far. I discovered the word inoculant, which is a liquid used to coat the peas before planting
My soil was about 40ºF, which is the low end of the temperature most suited to germination (the upper end is 75ºF). But once the plants saw the light, they took off in grand style. I had added a little bonemeal along with my Intrepid fertilizer and couldn’t have been more delighted with their fresh-picked sweetness in a lovely early evening stir-fry ... along with the tendrils that can be snipped from the tops of the vines, about 5 inches above the pods.
There are several varieties of the sugar snap pea, but the one I like best also happens to be one of the nation’s most popular, Oregon Sugar Pod II, developed by Oregon State University.
For some reason, many children just don’t like peas. Perhaps it’s because they are hard to chase around the plate or their little outer shells don’t chew up easily. But they have always been well received at our family table—with just a few leaves of fresh mint and a teaspoonful of brown sugar. What child could object?
We also use them to make a bright green version of the velvet sauce I usually make with parsnips (see page 204), but peas must be passed through a fine sieve to remove the shells.
The Numbers
For each 100 g boiled (3.5 oz; ½ cup): 84 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 16 g carbohydrate, 5 g protein, 5 g dietary fiber, 3 mg sodium
Snow or sugar snap peas per 100 g cooked (3.5 oz; ½ cup): 59 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 7 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 12 mg sodium
Peas
Annual/Cool Season
Water: Moderate, drip irrigation. Peas don’t like really warm weather and shouldn’t be handled when wet from dew, irrigation, or rain.
Sun: Full
Companion Planting:
PRO: Beans, carrots, celery, radishes, spinach, strawberries
CON: Garlic, onions, late potatoes
Pest: Aphids, birds, rabbits, thrips
Diseases: Bacterial blight, mildew, root rot
Soil: Sandy loam; good drainage, as heavy, waterlogged soil will produce a poor harvest
Fertilizer: Fish emulsion when 6 inches high
pH: 5.5-6.8
Varieties:
SNOW PEAS: Corgi (for flavor), Oregon Giant (big pods)
ENGLISH PEAS: Dakota (early), Wando (bush pea for small garden)
SUGAR SNAPS: Super Sugar Mel, Super Sugar Snap (pole climber)
Zones: 2-8
Planting: For spring crop, seed ½-1 inch deep, 6-8 weeks before last frost. Sow 2 peas together unless you use the 8 peas to one pole idea—then only one. Plant 2-3 inches apart, thin to 4 inches.
Germinates: 5-7 days
Harvest: From seed, 55-70 days
Rotation: Every other year, to help following crops that need nitrogen fixation, such as kale.
Edible: Peas and pods
ASIAN SNOW PEA SALAD
A lovely bright-flavored salad for early summer when the snow peas are abundant. Depending on the variety, you may have to detach the stalk along with the fine string. The younger they are, the less likely they are to need this fiddle.
SERVES 4
FOR THE DRESSING
¼ cup rice vinegar
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
1 teaspoon grated gingerroot
½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
¼ teaspoon salt
FOR THE SALAD
2 cups cooked thin rice noodles
1 cup seedless red grape halves
1 cup fresh (or frozen) snow peas, quickly blanched and cooled
½ cup sliced green onions
2 cups salad shrimp or chicken breast pieces
(can be replaced by mushrooms, sliced and briefly sautéed, or tofu)
4 large red leaf lettuce leaves
Combine the vinegar, oil, soy sauce, garlic, ginger, red pepper flakes, and salt in a blender or small bowl and set aside.
Toss together the noodles, grapes, snow peas, onion, and shrimp. Pour the dressing over and mix well. Let sit 30 minutes for the flavors to mingle. Serve on beds of red leaf lettuce leaves.
Per serving: 229 calories, 6 g fat, 1 g saturated fat (4% calories from saturated fat), 21 g carbohydrate, 21 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 428 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1 Starch, 1 Very Lean Meat, 1 Vegetable, 1 Fat
GREEN PEA DIP WITH SALSA
A new twist on guacamole, using bright green peas in place of the higher calorie avocado.
SERVES 4
2 cups fresh shelled peas
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice
1 teaspoon mild chili powder
⅛ teaspoon cayenne (optional)
1 tablespoon minced onion
1 garlic clove, bashed and chopped
⅓ cup prepared salsa
Cook the peas in ½ cup boiling water for 4 minutes, until tender and bright green. Pour into a food processor along with the cooking liquid. Add the lemon juice, chili powder, and cayenne, and pulse until almost smooth. Put into a medium bowl and stir in the onion, garlic, and salsa.
Serve with baked tortilla or pita chips, or jicama slices.
Per serving: 62 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 11 g carbohydrate, 4 g protein, 4 g dietary fiber, 122 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1 Starch
PEA SALAD WITH CURRY AND ALMONDS
This looks so rich and creamy, you may think it shouldn’t be allowed. Yet this luscious first course provides 1½ vegetable servings per person, and check out the nutrition numbers!
SERVES 4
2 cups small new peas
1 cup peeled and chopped jicama
½ cup finely chopped sweet onion
2 tablespoons roughly chopped toasted almonds
¼ cup light mayonnaise
¼ cup nonfat plain yogurt
1 teaspoon mild curry powder
Pinch cayenne
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Place the peas, jicama, onions, and almonds in a bowl.
Combine the mayonnaise, yogurt, curry powder, cayenne, salt, and black pepper. Add to the vegetables and mix well.
Per serving: 118 calories, 3 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 18 g carbohydrate, 5 g protein, 7 g dietary fiber, 161 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1 Starch, ½ Fat
RISI BISI
Perhaps the second most famous combination of grain and legume—after rice and beans—is this dish, which is a visual delight and a treat for pea lovers. It’s also a complete protein combination.
SERVES 4
⅔ cup Arborio or pearl rice
1⅓ cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable
stock (see page 288)
2 cups fresh small peas, lightly steamed
(4 minutes)
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Bring the rice and stock to a boil in a covered saucepan. Reduce the heat as low as possible and cook, covered, 15 minutes or until the rice is tender.
Stir in the peas, salt, black pepper, and Parmesan cheese.
Per serving: 101 calories, 2 g fat, 1 g saturated fat (9% calories from saturated fat), 15 g carbohydrate, 6 g protein, 4 g dietary fiber, 323 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1 Starch, ½ Fat
Peppers
Capsicum annuum
In the first year with my kitchen garden, the bell peppers did very well in more ways than one. As a plant,
they flourished—the nights were warm, so I didn’t lose blossoms. Almost every flower bore fruit, and eventually those that were supposed to turn color did exactly what their seed packet promised!
Of course it was a tremendous help that we had such a long warm summer. Peppers relish warmth and really don’t like it when it rains. All mine began their life indoors and didn’t go out until our nights were consistently warmer than 55ºF and the plants were 6 inches tall.
When they are mature (with fruit), they can spread out over 15 inches, so it’s best to stagger them over at least a 3-foot-wide bed. If it gets really hot (for us, 85ºF and above), use a floating cover to provide some shade; too much heat, and you could lose the blossoms essential to produce the fruit.
Two pieces of good advice that I got from my local experts: scratch in a teaspoon of Epsom salt at the base of each plant to give it some extra magnesium, which peppers just love, and keep sweet peppers well separated (at least one bed away) from spicy peppers to avoid cross-pollination.
Normally just growing well would be enough, but they went the extra mile and made my year! I smuggled a couple of red ones into the kitchen and sliced them into a delicious salad with goat cheese, pineapple, pine nuts, and plenty of fresh basil—and waited for the reaction from Treena, who professes to hate peppers. She loved the salad, and when I told her the thin red stuff was peppers, she was enthusiastic enough to suggest we try them broiled, which really is my favorite method.
The Numbers
Commercial crops of these peppers grown via conventional methods can sometimes be quite high in residual chemicals. As yours ripen, they gain red pigment and antioxidants and no chemicals.
For each 100 g raw (3.5 oz; ½ cup): 31 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 6 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 4 mg sodium