The Modern Crossbow

by Terry Stewart

  The York round is shot at the 24" face with 72 bolts at 100 yards, 48 bolts at 80 yards and 24 bolts at 60 yards.

  One of the most popular rounds is the American round of 30 bolts at each of the following ranges in this order: 60, -50, -40 yards, six sighting shots allowed at 60 yards.

  The Western round is shot at 60 and 50 yards, four dozen bolts at each range, and is popular with less danger of splitting bolts due to close grouping as may occur at shorter ranges.

  The standard target face is set out as follows: gold, or centre circle known as the gold and not the 'bull', has a diameter of 4-3/4". A 1" diameter black or white spot may mark the exact centre of the gold but has no scoring significance. Working outwards from the gold there are red, blue, black and white circles, each 2-3/4" wide; scoring values from the gold are 9, 7, 5, 3, 1. Target faces may be either hessian, duck, or paper. Targets purchased from stores are the usual straw type and are basically tightly bound straw coils sewn together. A good thick target is required for crossbow shooting effectively to stop complete bolt penetration.

  Wire-bound straw bales are useful for targets but are so heavy that they usually are left on a permanent site. Also, If a bolt does penetrate far in, you will not get it out without opening the bale. The target face for regulation crossbow shooting is 24" in diameter and must be positioned with the centre of the gold exactly 4 ft. above the ground. Six bolts are shot consecutively, this is known as an 'end'. Although all competition shooting is at a 24" target face , it is usual to use a 48" target. The 24" diameter face, set in the centre of the 48" diameter target, allows a good margin for misses off the target face.

  Chapter 3

  THE BOW PISTOL

  The bow pistol is a smaller edition of the crossbow. This weapon, fitted with a small bow drawing as an average up to 50 lb., is very similar in appearance to a pistol, and is shot in the same manner with the arm extended, discharging a short bolt from between six to eight inches in length. Considerable amusement may be derived from a bow pistol shooting at targets up to 30 yards or so, and though it may be practicable for hunting small game, I doubt very much its hitting power for this purpose.

  Having made bow pistols drawing 50 lb., at a 10 inch draw, I found some difficulty in cocking the weapon easily, even though of such a light draw weight, due to the closeness it is held to the body prior to cocking. This close position allows the arms little leverage to draw back the bow string easily, so it is usual to employ a small wood lever to cock these tiny weapons.

  In medieval times the bow pistol was the weapon of the assassin. Some of these weapons had draw weights of up to 100 lb. and over, the cocking device being either screw or lever, and yet were so small and compact as to be concealed in the wide sleeves of the coats and gowns worn during that period.

  A powerful bow pistol of this type mentioned exists with an overall length no longer than that of a man's hand.

  Today's modern bow pistols are usually about 10" to 12" in length, fitted with a fixed, or, at times, an adjustable sight, and will discharge a six inch long bolt with accuracy at short range. Bolts of this type are invariably 1/4" diameter wood, and generally unfletched, though two vane fletching is worthwhile for added accuracy.

  When constructing a bow pistol the basic principles of crossbow construction should be closely observed. Although no butt, comb height, etc., has to be considered, as with a standard crossbow, it is essential to form a really comfortable pistol shaped butt to ensure a steady hold, enabling the trigger to be pressed and controlled in an easy manner. This grip should be strengthened with a short length of 1/4" diameter dowelling inserted in a press fit, and glued up through the grip after it has been drilled out.

  These weapons are by no means 'toy', even though of light draw weight; I well remember shooting a bow pistol discharging its small bolt to penetrate a 1/4" thick deal plank from ten yards!

  Chapter 14

  THE CROSSBOW'S LEGALITY

  'Are crossbows legal weapons?' 'Do I require a licence to possess a crossbow?' Very often I am asked these questions and though it is a somewhat 'tricky' legal question on a point of law, I shall endeavour to answer it as best I can.

  There is nothing in British law that states a person requires a licence to possess a crossbow. It does not come under the Gun Licence Act of 1870 which refers to 'Any kind of gun from which any shot, bullet, or other missile can be discharged'. If one could legally term a crossbow as a gun it would come under this Act; however, the Act refers specifically to, and states, gun. It is generally accepted that guns discharge their missiles by an expansion of gases caused by an explosive charge, whereas a crossbow discharges its missile by catapult action.

  The Firearms Act uses the term 'lethal barrelled weapon'. A crossbow is a lethal weapon but it is not barrelled in the sense of the Act. The law apparently refers to 'guns' in the conventional sense.

  Some years ago a young man was fined by a local magistrate for being in possession of, and discharging, a harpoon-gun without a licence. As a harpoon-gun has a barrel (of sorts) and is named 'gun', the magistrate obviously interpreted the Act to apply in that particular case. The young man in question paid his fine and so admitted his guilt in breaking the law. But did he break the law? No explosive charge was used, his harpoon being discharged by the catapult action of strong rubber strands. Had he pleaded not guilty and gone for trial, it would have been a most interesting point of law brought to light, and I am sure he would have been acquitted.

  A recent inquiry into the legality of crossbows brought the following reply from The Justice of the Peace.

  Although there is no doubt that a crossbow is a lethal weapon, we do not think that either a gun licence or firearms certificate is required.

  This does not, however, mean that you can go out and shoot any and every wild creature at random. You may not require a licence to possess a crossbow, but you will require one to shoot game .

  An important legal consideration in British law is your reason for being in possession of a crossbow. Should the authorities find you in possession of a crossbow on private land without the owner's consent, then you could be in trouble.

  To be in possession of a crossbow when on your way to your archery club or practice shoot, etc., should not place you in conflict with the Law.

  In some American States it is illegal to hunt with the crossbow and in one at least it is illegal even to own a crossbow. This sad state of affairs has come about due to the indiscriminate use of the crossbow by irresponsible people, not only to hunt, but for poaching game.

  Practically anyone can handle and shoot a crossbow fairly well in a very short time; this, together with the crossbow's hitting power and silent operation, makes it an ideal poacher's weapon. In very many American States, poachers were taking long range chance shots at deer and other animals, at times shooting from moving cars, with the result animals were found wandering about wounded and maimed by crossbow bolts. Under the circumstances it was not surprising the local and State Authorities restricted or disallowed the crossbow's use. Any similar indiscrimlnatlons in Britain may also result in such restrictions or an eventual complete banning of the crossbow.

  By only using the crossbow against vermin or legal game in the proper seasons; by being in possession of a game licence when necessary; and by only hunting on land on which you have permission to hunt you will keep clean in Britain the so-far unsullied name of the crossbow.

  The End

  Stewart Publications (Copyright)

  HUNTING CROSBOW CONSTRUCTION AND ASSEMBLY

  (Drawing Ref. AHO/16566)

  The first essential is a piece of good hardwood for the stock, a piece that is well seasoned and not liable to twist. If a full sized plank is not available, scrap pieces glued together will do, provided the gluing is well done. Many modern glues and adhesives make a joint stronger than the material they unite, so you nay be sure of satisfactory results. Recommended hardwoods are French or African Walnut; or Sapele Mahogany.


  1. Cut out the general outline of the stock, following the dimensions carefully, and see that the 'barrel' is perfectly straight and level along the top.

  2. Chisel out the recess to hold the trigger group. 2" x 13/16". Taper down to 1-1/4"x 13/16".

  3. Between this recess and the end of the barrel, cut your bolt slot exactly down the centre. After cutting the bolt slot wrap a length of 5/16" dowel in sandpaper and make a 1/8" chamfer on each side of the slot by rubbing it down the slot. Your bolt when shot will fly along this runway with one feather down the slot. If available to you, this bolt slot is most easily cut using a small circular saw set to a depth of 1/2".

  4. Now make your latch using the detail plan for measurements. The other views of the latch shown in the stock are not to scale and are only intended to show the cocked and released positions of the latch, and its assembly.

  If precisely made this trigger will pull like a sporting rifle with a bow draw weight of up to about 85 lbs. The latch is slotted in the centre to allow the rear end of the bolt through to touch the bowstring prior to release. The part of the latch in contact with the bowstring must be filed perfectly smooth and finished with emery paper to ensure a clean and friction-free release to the string. The 1/8" to 1/4" play either side of the latch and trigger should be taken up with a washer each side of the pivots.

  The pivot holes in the stock and trigger unit must be placed exactly precise and all parts must be smoothly finished and work freely. A cover plate (PLASTIC) is now screwed over the pivot pins on each side of the stock.

  5. The opening in the stock for the bow is now cut like a flat tipped inverted 'V' as shown on the plan. The 'tip' of the 'V' should be 15" from the bowstring position on the latch when cooked. The 'tip' of the 'V' slot should be 5/8" from the top of the stock. The extreme fore-end of the stock is 1-5/8" deep.

  6. Cut out a pair of mild steel bow plates 1/8" x 2-1/2" x 1-1/2" as in the plan. Drill through stock and bow plates with a 1/4" diameter drill and fasten the bowplates to each side of the stock by passing a length of 1/4" Screwed Rod through the holes in the stock and plates and tighten up against the stock with 1/4" steel nuts.

  7. The lock plate for fitting to the underside of the bow slot is now cut. Mild steel again being preferred material 1/8" x 3-1/2" x 1-1/2", and two 1/4" holes drilled through.

  8. Now cut a hardwood wedge to fill in the space in front of the bow slot. This wedge is pressed into place by the lock plate when the bow is in position and holds the bow immovably in the stock when shooting. (This is essential for accurate shooting).

  9. Combination screws are inserted in the underside of the stock, one each side of the bow slot. The lock plate slips over the threaded ends of these screws protruding from the stock, and is clamped firmly against the bow and wedge with two 1/4" wing nuts.

  10. The latch cover is simply made from hardwood and is screwed firmly behind the latch with two 1-1/2" long wood screws.

  11. The sights are simple and effective for hunting purposes. The rear peep sight may be made at home if desired, but any gunsmith will supply you with a rifle single hole aperture eyepiece , 1/16" diameter hole, that will suit admirably. The threaded neck of this type of eyepiece is pushed through the 3/16" diameter hole in the rearside strip and riveted on. 3/8" above the exact centre of the peep sight a small 'V' notch sight should be filed in the steel strip. Your rear-sight when complete is bent at right angles 3/4" from the bottom and screwed to the underside of the latch cover with two small flat-headed screws.

  The foresight consists of a steel strip screwed to the sides of the stock with an 1/8" diameter hole drilled through to take the foresight rod. Exactly above the centre of the bolt slot, a small washer is attached to the foresight rod for sighting. It is imperative that the foresight bead and the centre of the rearsight peephole are exactly the same height from the top of the stock. A small rubber pad may then be glued to the base of the rearsight strip immediately over the screws. This rubber pad lightly grips the crossbolt prior to release and enables the Crossbow to be pointed downwards without the bolt falling out.

  BOW CONSTRUCTION

  Obtain a length of Noral 75 flat Extruded Bar 36" x 1" x 5/16". Mark out the dimensions as shown. Joining up all the points with straight lines then cut out with a hacksaw. File up smoothly to run the lines cleanly together rather than showing sharp angles. Round off any sharp edges and be sure your bow nocks are as smooth as glass by using fine emery paper. (Dual "K" Alloy is also suitable).

  To bend the alloy to shape use a block of hardwood about 20" long x 3" x 2" with a 1" slot x 3/8" cut at 2" from one end. Place the bow in a strong vise and bend the limbs forward to form a reverse curve at 3" from each end. Now bend backwards at 2" on each side of the bow's exact centre. When bending noral to shape use a firm steady pressure, any sudden push or jerk is liable to crack or break the alloy. Take time and be patient over the bending to be sure both sides of the bow are bent exactly evenly at every point. Finished draw weight of this Bow is 70 - 75 lbs. approx.

  When your bowstring is on, the "Fistmele" or distance between the string on the braced bow and the bow at its centre, should be 3-1/2" to 4".

  Take the measurenents of the finished bow from nock to nock and order a bow string from an archery supply firm. Crossbow bolts may also be purchased, or you con make your own by assembling the parts. By ordering several 30" long x 5/16" diameter shafts and cutting these in half, this will make two bolts from each shaft. A suitable number of brass or steel points to fit the shafts also some turkey fletchings for flights and a touch of clear lacquer for the shaft will complete your kit.

  ASSEMBLY

  A. Fit the bow into the slot being sure it is positioned exactly in the centre. It is imperative that the bow is, at all times, inserted into the stock with the tapered edge to the bottom of the slot. If fitted with the other edge to the bottom the bow will lose some of its power and cast.

  B. Place the small wedge into position to fill the space in front of the bow.

  C. Replace the lock plate on the underside of the slot and tighten up firmly with the wing nuts to lock the wedge tightly against the bow. Your bow is now ready to be strong.

  LOADING AND SHOOTING

  1. To cock the crossbow, place the butt firmly against your stomach, then, gripping the bow string with both hands close to each side of the stock, pull back evenly until the bow string is well under the latch cover, and securely caught in the release mechanism. When properly cooked, a sharp click may be heard. When cocking the weapon the last few inches, brace your thumbs firmly against the stock directly behind the latch cover. This will greatly assist in the cocking.

  2. The crossbow is held and shot like a rifle, aiming along the sight provided on to the target. The rear sight combines both a peep sight for close targets and a notch sight above it for more distant targets. Up to 20 yards, use a rear peep sight in conjunctian with the front bead sight. Over 20 yards, use the rear 'V' sight. Shoot the crossbow by holding steady and squeezing the trigger. When shooting, your forward hand should grip the stock at the under swelling edge, keeping your fingers down below the string leve.

  3. Safety First. The Crossbow ie not a toy, but a Deadly Weapon. Treat it as such. When loaded, keep it pointed in the Direction of your Target, and NEVER point it at another person.