Journal of a Mountain Man

by Win Blevins

  The vallies are said by some to be good & are represented as being quite large and finely clothed with grass at one of the H. B. Cos. Establishments I am informed that Thirty thousand sheep are kept and in fact a greate number of Sheep and cattle are kept at all Their Trading posts north of The columbia and more paticularly on Peugetts Sound these sheep are of the spannish breed they yield a large fleece of coars Blankets and other coarse clothes for the supply of their numerous Trading Establishments in all parts of their extensive trade to the north The H. B. Co. Likewise keep a steam Boat running in Peugetts sound to facilatate their (their) trad amongst the numerous bays and Isleands on that coast and carry on a profitable trade with their Neighbours the Russians on Both continents

  The Navigation of the Columbia is not verry good and more particular neare the head of the Bay whare the channel is narrow crooked and interupted by Bars & sand banks

  Geography, Products and Government of Oregon

  I now come to speak of the Willhamet vally in and near the mouth of this River are several Large Islands thise Islands are good soil and fine grazing but mostly overflow in the winter and spring freshets as Likewise do all the point of land forming the Junction a fine situation is found however immediately below the lower mouth of the Willhamet good water and a good landing but this place is not easily approachable by land and is far from any considerable cultivateable country The Killimook mountains approach nearly to the water on the west or right hand side of the Willhamet as you assend and all the uplands even to the mountains top are covered with a magnificent and lofty groth of Firr Timber These mountains Extend west to the coast and South nearly to the falls a distance of some 20 miles and are generally verry steep rocky and rugged the Tuallata River takes its rise in these mountains & Running S. E. and E. falls into the Willhamet 2 miles above the Falls on the Branches of this stream & nearly west of the falls lies Quite a large pine Prairi called the Twallata plains this beautifull plain contains upwards of 200 families mostly american

  This Plain is a kind of cove or vally and is bounded on the N.N. W. and west By the Killimook mountains on the East by the Tuallatine Hills and the South by the Jahalem hills the last mentioned Hills are generally Beare of Timber and are excelent pasture lands passing South on the west of the Willhamet Jahalem or Chehalem vally occurs this vally is small compared to The Twalatine but contains some 30 or 40 Farms continueing south over a steep norrow range of Bald Hills an hours ride brings you to the Yam Hill vally or country and From off of the last mentioned you have no mountain or Hill to intercept the view the vally extending south as far as the farthest extent of vision the Mountains However bind you on the East and west that is the Cascades with their snowy peaks on East and the Killimook rang on the west This vally is here not short of Fifty miles wide and perhaps one Hundred and Fifty in length numerous Brooks and rivulets meander their way in various directions through the vally from the neighbouring mountains on either side of the Willhamet and when necessary can easily be converted into the means of driveing all kinds mchineery that be found usefull for a greate manufactureing communety

  I will now take a glance at the willhamet vally on the East side of the river after passing the overflown Lowlands near the Junction of the Rivers an undulating or rather hilly Plain occurs covered with Large Firr and other evergreen Timber interwoven with Hazel Dwarf maple and other underbrush for 20 or 30 miles that is to the Klackimus a rapid rocky stream about 60 yards wide taking its rise from the snowy peaks of (of) the Cascades on this stream are several small Prairies as Likewise a fine Salmon fishery whare greate Quantities are anually taken at the Junction of this stream with willhamet is a Bad shallow rapid Formed by the Rapid wash of the Klackimus as Likewise from the deposits thrown from the Falls of the willhamet (which) only one mile above [which] you Find the Prairies untill you pass The Moleally rivir a Strong Rapid stream draining the snowy peaks of the cascades Likwise and entering willhamet 20 miles above or South of the Falls This stream [is] 60 or 80 yards wide and scarcely ever fordable But haveing passed this streame you immediately enter on the praries as Likewis the oldest and most numerous settlement in the Teritory this settlement composed of mostly French and civilized Indians is organized into a county called Champooick [Champoeg] and contains the catholick and Methodist Missionary station in this vally of which I shall speak Hereafter From the Moleally the Praries Extend south perhaps 200 miles to the Kalapooya mountains this range which I shall speak of again divides the Willhamet vally from the Umpqua vally From the commencement of the Praries the Settlment Extends to the Santaam one of the principle Tributaries of the willhamet a distance of some 50 miles

  South of the Santaam the vally becomes verry Extensive and may be near 100 miles wide E. & W.

  I now may speak of the government which is provisional and has only Existed for the year past. The Executive has consisted of three persons one Elected as president the other two as assistants with a Ligislature consisting of nine members all Elected to serve for one year only and untill others are Elected and Qualified The Judiciary [consists] of one Judge and one shirriff who officiate throughout all the organized counties which amount to Five namely Clatsop at the mouth of the columbia Klackimus From the mouth of the willhamet to the Moleally on the E. side of the willhamet Twalata on the west side of the Willhamet shampooik on the E. and yamhill on the west no organization haveing taken place north of the columbia The present Laws However make a considerable change making but [one] govornor or Executive head with an increas in the Legisltive Body of six members and a provision for a Militia organization

  The Laws of Iowa have been adopted and a number of acts or Laws passed by the provisional Legislature of oregon The claim Laws allow every man 640 acres the claiman must build a cabbin on his claim within two months after his haveing taken possession and must be a resident by himself or by a Tenant his claim must be square or oblong the [lines] running North and South and East and West if the nature of the country permit By a Ressolotion of the Legislature last winter the provisional government is Extended over all the country East whose waters flow into the Pacific North to Latitude 54.40 or the line agreed upon Between The United states and the Russian governments and South of Latitude 42 or the line agreed upon between the United states and the Mexican governments Some alterations However will take Effect this season the Legislature will consist of 15 members and one governor in place of the former council of three The other officers cosist of one clerk of the court and one Treasurer Elected For one year Likewis and one Assessor the shirriff being Collector and here let me remark that The Hudson Bay company (have) whare their Intrest or Establishments have fallen into any of the organized counties have entred heartily into the organization themselves with all their influence amongst the French and Half Breeds and (and) their influence and Example has had a remarkable good effct and has assisted much to the Establment of the present Provisional government such as it is

  The commerce of the country has been so far carried on mostly by the H. Bay Company and previous to the arival of the american Emigration of 1843 the country appears to have been well supplied with all the merchandize necesary for the population But since the arival of the last American emigration goods have become scarce and the price nearly doubled

  the closing of the Methodist missionary Establishment has likewise withdrawn a small but active capital from the trade of the country and at present I see no immediate prspects of the Establishment of capital in the country The Exports of the country consist mostly of wheat and Flour carried to the Pacific Islands and the Russian settlement on this contiment this with fish and lumber taken to the pacific Island constitute the present commerce of the country with the white inhabitants the Indian trade in Furrs and peltres is exclusively carried on by the H. B. Co. The present cultivation of the country is confined to the raising of wheat and peas both of which grow to greater perfection here than any place I have heretofore seen and considerable Quantities of wheat is yearly wasted after furnishing all that i
s required for the Limited commerce of the country and for fatting pork for home consumtion in fact all the domastic stock that is fed at all is fed with wheat and wheat and Flour might and no doubt will in the course of time be Exported to an immence amount when the agriculture Trade and commerce of the country shall be properly opened and Encouraged Corn the western americans main crop dose not succeed well on accout of the coolness of the nights which are never warm even in the middle of summer Fruit apples pears plumbs peaches &c &c yeeld in profusion but are as yet of an ordinary Quality being small and hard Timber the most common timber is the Firr which grows in astonishing quantities and of immence size and Length many trees measureing over 100 feet of clear Timber and producing in good grooves From 20 to Thirty thousand Rails forom one acre and it is quite common for one man to chop & split 300 rails per day Labour is verry high common Labour commanding forom thirty to fifty dollars per month and mechanicle labor commanding from two to three dollars per day owing to the Kind of Work and the Qualifications of the workman The pay however is in Merchandize of the produce of the country The nominal price of wheat is one dollar per bushel and merchandize at forom one to two hundred percent proffit I neglected to finish the article of timber on the oposite page after the Firr which is of two kinds the white and the red pine comes next in importance Thire is of this too speeces Like wise the yallow and the spruce pines Both growing large and plentifull in some districts while cedar grows in small Quantities and is found generally difused Hemlock is also found in the mountains The yew an evergreen Likewis is found in rocky situations a spices of Laurel also resembling the laurel of the states in appearanc grows here to such a size as to make a valuable timber for furniture The oak is rather dwarfish and shrubly as Likewises is the ash but Enough of either is found for the impliments of husbandry and mchanical tools &c &c Two or three Kinds of maple is likewise found here but they do not grow generally large and thrifty

  The Alder of this Tiritory is large compared to that seen in the states The Bark is used for Tanning leather & the wood sawn & used in making furniture for which pupose it is considered verry good several Kinds of [willows] are found some growing Quite large and in fact the willow seems to be more generally defused on all Kinds of soil than any other Timber

  A species of Hazel is also very common and is the only tmbir found Sutable for hoop poles and is also the only Tree or shrub Bearing nutts the nut much resembling a Small Filbert

  Considrable Quantities of Berries are found in their proper season The strawbery & Huckelberry nearly the same as in the States

  A Species of Blackberry and Raspberry. Barberry verry sour. Thimble berry Fine acid. Sallal sweet & one or Two other Kinds of not much importance are occasionally found with goose beries and wild current make up the most of the Berries

  The salmon Fisheries could and no doubt will at future period Be made an object of (and) an Extensive trade carried on in and through the productions of the rivers a small species of oister is found in some places on the coast but I could not learn that they ware plenty no other valuable Fish enters the rivers of This Teritory that I could hear of except salmon some whale are thrown on the coast every winter By the Storms

  The seal is common on the coasts and in the bays and Rivers greate Quantites and greate verieties of waterfowl is found in all parts of The open country during the rainy season such as the Swan the crane goose Brant and innumerable Quantities of Ducks with the wood cock and Snipe The soil is Intirely clay even to the elluvial lowlands on the streams The Bars However in many places is gravel

  The Rock is of The dark rough Bassalt family and appears to have all been in a state of Fusion at some Remote period I did not heare of Lime Being found only at one place, That being near the mouth of the columbia What has been used Heretofore has been brought from the Isleands as ballast on board of vessels

  I did not see or hear of any coal sand stone or any other stratified Rock but various Qualities of clays are found in greate abundance

  The animals are Panthers several kins of wolves The Black the yallow grey and spoted all large and traublesome killing hogs cattle and even in some instances horses and mules The small Prarie wolf is likewise numerous I saw no foxes The Wild [cat?] is not numerous plenty of Elk are found in the mountains and deer in all the Thickets water fowl is plenty Beyond all conception in the rainy season all the Lowlands being litterly covered the[y] all move to the north and east during the months of April and May The Land Fowl are the Firr grous the Pheasant and Quail as kikewise the medow lark which are found in greate abundanc on the open lands a few of the Red brast wood pickers and sparrow are also seen The condor The Buzzard the Raven and crow with several speces of Hawks most of which are Plenty the Hawks feed mostly on mice & moles both of which are numerous

  several Kinds of squirrels areseen all of which Burrow in the earth and lie torpid in the rainy season some lay up seed to lie on others come out verry lean being nothing but skin and bone

  The Quantity [of water] that pours from the mountains on either side in to the Willhamet vally is truly astonishing every 8 or 10 miles Brings you to a river and brooks innumerable I can give no Idea of (of) the length of This vally as yet but shall probably have a much Better oppertunity in ou rout through and this will be seen in my day Journal

  “the four months rain”

  Feruary the 1st 1845

  Several showers of rain and wet snow & several rain Bows

  2 The same wind S.

  3 Thick and cloudy with a slight Drizzilling raian

  4 Fogy with a tremendious heavy dew this morning wind South Afternoon clear and warm—

  5 Morning Fogy afternoon clear

  6 a white Frost cloudy

  7 Fair and warm

  8 Fair Balmy and warm

  9 Same willows Alders & some other early vegetation beginning to Bloom

  10 rainy

  11 Fair But not clear

  12 rainy

  13 Heavy showers of Rain

  14 Low grumbling thunder with rain

  15 Rapid Showers

  16 Same the earth covered with water

  17 The rain ceased some what

  18 Fair I noticed several of the Early summer birds ware chirping in the thickets

  19 Cloudy Evening Rainy

  20 same Showers

  21 do do

  22 same this day fulfills the four months rain and yet no emmediate appearance of clear weather

  23 strong west winds commenced blowing last night and still continues attended with rapid showers of hail and rain

  24 A stiff frost last night the day Quite pleasant but clou[dy]

  25 Cloudy & cool

  26 same with Showers of rain

  27 Fair

  28 Showers wind west

  Satterday 1845 March the First clear and handsome and we enjoyed the fine day after the long rainy season which we hope is now passed away for this season the hills are now fast becomeing dry green and pleasant the grass which spread itself so nicly over the surface of the earth last fall is now beginning to shoot up and lengthen out

  2 Clear and handsome

  3 do wind West

  4 Rain cold & Blustring

  5 Clear cool N. wind

  6 Clear with a white frost the Eternal snow capt. mountains glittering in bright sun Shine

  7 Clear & Beautifull with a stiff frost

  8 Fair wind west — —

  9 Fair do N. W.

  10 Clear and fine Wind North

  11 do do W North

  12 Clear & Beautifull I had a Sunset view of the Cascade mountains binding the vally on the East for a great length and in their dark green livery with now and then a high peak shooting his white snow clad [head] far in to the regions of eternal frost while the lower vallies show all the active indications of spring or rather early summer

  13 unusually Bright and clear the musketoes rather troublesome last night

  Noticed 5 different kins of small vegitables in full Bloom to day the [rain] on t
he first of this month leaving the low grounds nearly covered in water which has now all disappeared and left us fine smoothe Dry Prarie to pass over and the Plow is now running whare one week since it was covered in water

  14 Clear wind north and verry d[r]ying vegitation comeing rapidly forward

  15 no change Except the vally is some what Enveloped in smoke

  16 same Quite warm

  17 same do ditto The water fowl have nearly all left this vally and many of the summer birds Have arived and make the mornings cheerful with their songs

  18 Clear nothing can look more pleasant than clear weather does in this country the hils handsomly rounded smoothe and thickly clothed with green grass the sky intirely clear not a cloud to be seen but one continual bright sunshine from morning untill evening

  19 Slightly Fogy wind west vegetation grows rapidly and a fair appearance of summer

  20 Fair some appearance of rain

  21 Fair I noticed the Maple and white oak bigen to shew the leak [leaf] Strawberries in Bloom and the hills completely covered with small flowers mostly purple & yallow wind West & N.W.

  22 Fair and pleasant

  “the service was performed by a gentleman

  of the Mothodist persuasion”

  23 a heavy dew last night and a clear Beautifull day a person that has not seen this country can have no Idea of the verieties of Beauties Exhibited here in a clear spring morning

  Attended divine service at a neighbouring house a decent behaved congregation of Gentlemen ware prasent But few Ladies the service was performed by a gentleman of the Mothodist persuasion who gave good advice had some tolerable Ideas but seem to want language to expess them in And I must say that female beauty is not (the) exclusively confined to any particular region or country for here too may be seen the fairy form the fair skin the dark Eye and drk hair so beautifully dscribed by Byron displayed in the person [of] Miss smith who I understood had traversed the interminable plains from the states here from here to Callifornia and from callifornia Back here again and is now Just swelling into womanhood with all the Beauties, if not all the accomplisments Belonging to the sexe