Journal of a Mountain Man

by Win Blevins

  and here it is remarkable that the small vally a few years since has been completely covered with Buffalo as their Bones which lay thickly strewed over the Earth plainly indicate and near the same time it has likewis been covered in natives as their camp fires show and for the last 2 years it has at times ben as completely covered with civilization

  9 Again under way and we soon assended the ridge (for in this country it cannot be caled a mountain) and changed our course from W. to N and desended to the Bear river vally this is one of the upper vallies on this stream and is Quite Large being from 30 to 40 miles Long and 6 to 8 miles wide Bounded Both E. and W. by a range of Bald mountains shewing in a peculiar manner their volcanic oragin by their standing in the form of wavse of the ocean at a late hour we came to camp near the N or lower extremity of this vally

  10 A shosne [Shoshone] Indian came to our camp this morning and informed us that no whites had yet arived or passed from the west

  But what was our disappointment on ariving on the Oregon trail to find that a large party of horses and mules had passed appearantly some 5 or 10 days previous so our hopes ware to all appearances Blasted for this season 2d & 6 June

  11 Packed up and concluded to move down Bear River to Bridgers camp and await a few days for more company after Traveling 4 or 5 miles down the wagon trail we met our old companions from california who had come by the way of Fort Hall and as we ware informed that all the company from Oregon had probably passed we turned our course to the East again so accordingly we all Joined once more and took the trail S. E. over high roling mountains diversified with handsome groves of aspen Poplar and Firr of that kind caled the white Balsam Firr we came to camp late at Hamms creek a Beautifull clear running stream about 30 yards wide and running S. E. into Blacks Fork of the Seetskadee or green River

  12 Took the Trail again over the same Kind of high roling country an a number of snow drifs ware seen lying along the hills mostly to our left and we passed as yestarday numerous groves of Aspin and saw a number of antelope coursing over the Hills several of which ware killed and found to Eat well after living so long on dry provision.

  The Green River valley and LeBarge Creek

  Nooned at a fine cool spring which breaks out in a grove of aspin [Traveled] Eastwardly along a verry winding crooked trail and over some rough hilly or rather mountainous country numerous groves of Aspin Firr and willow came in sight of the green River vally and capd. at a small spring this is the third day that thunder showers passed in all directions around us but verry little Has fallen on us

  13 East on the Trail But we soon passed our fine mountain district and desended into the vally of Le Bages. [LeBarge] creek on this stream I met with or rather suffered a Defeat from a war party of Arapahoes [Gros Ventres] in 1824 [1825] and the appearance of the stream brought back some serious reflections as we passed down its Level vally crossed over the hills and soon came in sight of green River whare we stoped and found the stream 80 or 100 yards wide rapid and Quite too deep to ford The afternoon proved showery and we remained here with the unpleasant Idea of haveing the River to raft if we can find a suitable place

  14 Moved up the River a few miles and made preperations to raft the river and after making the best sort of a craf we could possibly [build] out of such metireal as could be had which was miserably poor we made two attempts to cross over but failed bothe times

  15 Commenced early and after greate labour oweing to the rapidity of the water we ware carried down abut a mile but finally succeeded in landing a small portion of our Baggage on the oposite shore and finding our raft two large we ware unable to take it back so we had to pack timber over a mile and make smaller rafts my mess haveing made a small one we commenced crossing and made land in about Half a mile and with grate exertion ware able to tow it up and recross and so we continued to do some 8 or 10 triips untill we all got safe over this cold rapid river of snow water and encamped on the oposite or East shore

  16 Left the Seetskadee early and mad a push of 30 or 35 miles and Encamped on Big sandy this is a flat Runing stream over a sand bottom and we found it Bank full from the thawing of the snow on the wind river mountain in which it rises but apearantly it had fallen a little

  These wind river mountains are nearly all covered yet in their white winters robes allthough the middle of June most of the snow however goes off by the middle of July

  This is a good vally for grass but scarce of timber their [being] little but willows

  17 Moved up Eastwardly toward the summit of the Rocky mountains the day was cool the country sage plain after crossing little sandy which is not more than 4 miles from our camp The mornings are cold and disagreeable so mouch so that I think we have not had more than 4 or 5 nights without frost since we left the great plains of California and the grass in some places is short

  campd on a marshy spring [at or near Pacific Springs] plenty of sage but no timber in any reasonable distance I noticed in this neighbourhood that there had been a tremendeous hail storm a few days since which in places had beat all the vegetation completely into the Earth

  18 A beutifull clear morning and (and) several of our company commenced prophesying that we should se some persons to day but Quite uncertain wheter white or red in one hours ride we came to the summit [South Pass] of the main rocky mountains which is nearly a level plain with a slight inclination each way and we soon hailed the small river of sweet water and it gave Quite a cheering statisfactory Idea allthough at so greate a distance to think that I was once more on the waters of the Missisippi and its ripling waters sounded in Idea like sweet home

  as we continued down the ridges on the N. side we came in sight of several male Buffaloe feeding on the young tender herbage and our camp at a small grove of Apin was well supplied in Buffaloe meat

  “this backbone of North America”

  19 The sun set unusually clear and Beautifull Last night behind the everlasting snow covered peaks of the wind River mountains and I had a fine view of this back bone of North America whose crags looked more like a ruined city than a mountain. While Far in the East some large herds of Buffalou ware grazing over their sage clad hills and several antelopes ware frisking and strangely gazing around our camp and animals The morning was cool but as soon as the sun arose it became warm and sultry

  Continued down on the N side of sweet water river saw plenty of Buffaloe in the afternoon made a long days drive and encamped on the open Prarie a short time after dark our animals took a fright and nearly all those that ware tied Broke and away they went with much the same rapidity and nearly the same nois as a great number of rocks would make rolling down a steep mountain you may Judge that some of us at least did not sleep sound under the supposition that a war party of Indians had run them away from us

  20 Early all the environs of our camp was examined but [no] sign of Indians could be found a few of us mounted some of our remaining horses and followed the trail about three miles whare to our greate Joy we found all our animals feeding Quietly

  saddled and continued East down the stream about noon some of the advance found a horse that [had] been left no doubt by some of the Oregon [train] six or eight days ahead of us

  saw a few Bufaloe on the hills some miles to the south the day was warm with a south wind

  “we met the advance company

  of Oregon Emigration”

  21 Down the stream and at about one oclock came to the independence rock here our party small as it was split and about half of us concluded to remain over night the others went ahead late in the afternoon we had another stampide last night but our animals did not go far and so soon war collected again

  22 Made an Early start from this morning and here we leave sweet water and take across the hills in a few hours we came in sight of several herds of Buffalo which seemed to be travelling southward an indication observed by old mountaineers that their is some persons Red or White in the direction from which the buffalo come stopd. at the willow spring for some of our party to come in wi
th meat

  23 Near sun set last night two French Trappers came to camp an informed us that the advance party of emigrants war over the North Branch of the Platte Early on our saddles and in about 3 hours we met the advance company of oregon Emigration consisting of Eleven wagons nearly oposite the red Butes when we came in sight of N. Platte we had the Pleasant sight of Beholding the valy to a greate distance dotted with Peopl Horses cattle wagons and Tents their being 30 wagons all Buisily engaged in crossing the River which was found not to be fordable and with the poor material they had to make rafts of it took two trips to carry over one waggon with its lading

  we however ware not long in crossing as we threw our baggage on the returning rafts and swam our animals over and encamped onc more in the Buisy humm of our own Language

  24 Down the N. Platte and during the day we passed three small companies some for Oregon and some for california

  It is remarkable how anxious thes people are to hear from the Pacific country and strange that so many of all kinds and classes of People should sell out comfortable homes in Missouri and Elsewhare pack up and start across such an emmence Barren waste to settle in some new Place of which they have at most so uncertain information but this is the character of my countrymen

  25 Continued down the River a few miles and Turned south through the Hills on account of the Rocky Kenyons that bind the stream on its passage through the Black hills mountains

  To day we met all most one continual stream of Emigrants wending their long and Tedious march to oregon & california and I found it allmost impossible to pass these honest looking open harted people without giving them some slight discription of what they might Expect in their newly adopted and anxious sought for new home but necessity only could compel us onward

  at our usual hour of camping we came to a small Brook whare a company of them ware Just coming up to camp Likewise and they came to us with Pail fulls of good new milk which to us was a treat of greate rarity after so many long tiresome days travel

  “a cup of excellent coffee”

  26 South across the hills and to day as yestarday we passed several small Brooks and met 117 teams in six different squads all bound for oregon and california in the evening we again had the pleasur of encamping with a company for california an they kept us in conversation untill near midnight

  27 we met numerous squad of emigrants untill we reached fort Larrimie whare we met Ex govornor [Lilburn W.] Boggs and party from Jackson county Mi[ss]ourie Bound for California and we camped with them several of us continued the conversation untill a late hour.

  And here I again obtained a cup of excellent coffee at Judge Morins camp the first I had tasted since in the early part of last winter and I fear that during our long conversation I changed the purposes of Govornor and the Judge for next morning they both told me they inte[n]ded to go to Oregon.

  28 Late in the morning we got on the road again and met another party of emigrants cnsisting of 24 Wagons and they told us that so far as they knew they ware the last on the road about noon we passed Bissinetts. Trading house and a few miles further on we met Bissinette himself returning from Missouri with a small supply of goods for the trade and from him we ware informed that thier ware 40 Teams yet on the road and that the Pawnees had killed one man [Trimble] We had previously heard that they had stolen a number of horses and one company had lost 120 head of cattle either Strayed or Stolen

  29 Parted with some of my old acquaintances who ware on thier way (to) some for Oregon and some for california the Ex govornor Boggs and Judge Morin changed their notion to go to Oregon in place of california Passed a small trading house [Capt. Finch’s trading post] on the River a few miles Below the old Larrimee establishment and one more company of emigrants most of the Emigrants we have met seemed to be in good health and fine spirits But some are much discouraged and a few have turned back about noon we passed the sumit of Scotts Bluffs and took a drink of good cool spring water in the evening we met a nother party of waggon and with a larger company at night which ware supposed to be the last we should meet on the way

  Clyman reaches the “greate Platte River”

  These last companies have had greate difficulties in passing the Pawnee country and have lost a greate many cattle and some of their horses and one man was killed (was killed) in trying to recover their lost cattle so that we have no favourable reports of our prosspects ahead and it will require all our ingenuity and vigilence for sometine to come for us to travel in any kind of safety

  30 Passed the chimney rock and at noon overtook a party of 12 or 15 men some from oregon and a few that had turned back to Missouri at Larimie in the evening we encamped on the River within about one mile of those a head of us

  July the 1th 1846 A heavy dew last night and a clear cool morning in the afternoon met Mr J. M. Wair [Weir] with a small party of six wagons Mr Wair risidid in Oregon some yares and had went to the states last summer and was now on his return to Oregon again

  This evening shews fair for rain

  “a company of Mormon Emigrants”

  2 Rapid Thunder & Lightning last night with a light shower of rain this morning is extremely warm we traveled S of East down the River untill about noon when we arived at the ash Hallow whare we found a company of Mormon Emigrants Encamped consisting of nineteen wagons these people are on their way to Oregon and informed us that the Pawnees had followed them and stole three horses last night They keeping a strick guard and the animals haveing been Tied to their wagons

  This encampment has the advantage of plenty of fuell and clear spring water and most travelers stop here one day at least there being no timbber East nor West for some distance

  3 . South across the ridge deviding the N. and S Branches of the greate Platte River about 20 miles the day was verry warm and the road dusty you think we ware verry thirsty and so we ware But had to Quench our Burning [thirst] with warm water fully half mud for this is the character of all the Platte waters of any size half mud and sand running over a wide shallow bed exposed to the Burning rays of a verticle sun But this is the best that can be had in crossing over this south branch one man and one woman got plunged from their Horses and well drenched in the turbid stream

  4 The sun arose in his usual majestic splendor no firing of canon was heard no flags waving to the early morning Breeze. Nothing no nothing heard but the occasional howl of the wolf or the hoarse croak of the raven nothing seen But the green wide spread Prarie and the shallow wide spread river roling its turbed muddy waters far to the East the only relief is the on rising ground occasionally doted with a few stragling male Buffaloe and one Lonely Junt of a cotton wood Tree some miles down the stream the only occupant of a small low Island (not much veriety) O my country and my Country men the rich smiling surface of on[e] and the gladsome Shouts of the other Here we are 8 men 2 women and one boy this day entering into an enimies country who if posible will Butcher every individual or at least strip us of every means of comfort or convenience and leave us to make our tiresome (som) way to relief and this immediatly on your frontier and under the eye of a strong Militay post The day proved verry still and warm and we overtook a small prarty of Emigrants that ware ahead consisting of seven men 2 young Ladies and one verry sick man some of thier company haveing left them an hour before our arival on account of their slow traveling The eight men that had parted from these in their defenceless state intended to make a rapid Push and travel day and night untill they passed the Pawnee Teritory

  5 The morning verry warm with a dew like rain The sick man seems to grow worse and has a high fever saw greate herds of Buffalo on Both sides of the river We nearly reached the Forks of Platte and late in the evening we had a short rapid showers of rain and in the night our animals took a Fright at an old Buffaloe that approached our camp and we had some difficulty in Keeping our Horses from breaking from the stake

  6 Clear and verry warm Passed the Juction of the N & South Branches of the Platte and came to the Bluffs which are steep and rough with
numerous small groves of rid cedar Nooned at ash run the first shade we have found for 10 or 12 days Continued down the River the hills and vallies on this stream are generally well covered in several kinds of grass and some portions of the vally would no doubt bear good grain of several kinds

  7 This morning we had a remarkable heavy dew. the day was warm an Sultry and our animals sweated profusely as well as ourselves saw several Large Herds of Buffalo on the oposite side of the River Probaby the last that will be seen on our direction

  8 A warm night and thee muskeetoes war troublesome all night this fore noon we passed Plumb Creek and nooned a short distance above the head of Grand Isleand we have had a beautifull road for some days being a livel dry Prarie Bottom from 2 to 4 miles wide the Islands and some of the main of the river is generally skirted with willow and small shrubby cottonwood

  9 another warm night with a south wind we are now near the Pawne village and anxiety to pass without interuption at its highest pitch some light showers of rain fell during the day and several horses are failing and will soon have to be left

  Left the Platte in the afternoon and crossed over the ridge and campd. on the waters of Kaw river

  10 a cloudy night without rain a Mr McKizack was left Behind last night being himself nearly Blinde and his horses verry poor his messmate Mr. Stump went back this morning to assist him to come up

  saw a horse yestarday that had been shot lying by the way side

  Mr stump returned about noon and could find nothing of Mr McKissick we moved on in the afternoon to the west fork of Blue river and encamped early for the purpose of making a more thorough search for the lost man But in a few minuits after stoping the old man hove in sight to the mutual satisfaction of all parties. several thunder showers passed around during the afternoon and a short rapid one but of short duration did not miss us about sun set The west Fork is small here but nearly clear and cool compared with the waters of the Platte the vallies are moderately large and the soil rich but no timber Except cottonwood and willow with here and there a chance Plumb bush now full of green fruit