Cooking for Friends
Page 4
Chorizo, fava bean, and mint couscous
This makes a fantastic accompaniment to the red mullet with anchovy sauce on Chapter 3, or you can double the recipe to serve it on its own.
SERVES 4 AS A SIDE DISH
11/3 cups couscous
1/3 cup olive oil
2 large shallots, minced
½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground coriander
pinch of paprika
7 ounces fresh chorizo sausage, skin removed and chopped
8 ounces blanched and skinned fava beans (about 11/3 cups)
large handful of fresh mint, leaves chopped
Place the couscous and a generous seasoning of salt and pepper in a large heatproof bowl. Stir to mix, then pour 1¼ cups boiling water evenly over the couscous. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let stand for 10–15 minutes.
Heat the oil in a frying pan and add the shallots and spices. Cook, stirring frequently, until the shallots are soft, 6–8 minutes. Add the chorizo and fry until cooked, 3–4 minutes. Stir in the fava beans and cook until they are warmed through, 1–2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.
Uncover the couscous and fork to fluff up the grains. Add the contents of the frying pan to the couscous and mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Finally, stir through the chopped mint. Serve warm.
Linguine with lemon, feta, and basil
The light and zesty flavor of this pasta dish makes it ideal for the summer. It’s also quick and easy for supper during the week, because you are likely to have the ingredients on hand.
SERVES 4
1 pound fresh (or 10 ounces dried) linguine
¼ cup olive oil
grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan
handful of fresh basil, leaves only
7 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
Cook the fresh pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water for 2 minutes. If using dried pasta, cook according to package directions until al dente. Tip the pasta into a colander, leaving about 2 tablespoons of the cooking water in the pot.
Immediately return the pasta to the pot and add the olive oil, lemon zest and juice, Parmesan, basil, and three-quarters of the crumbled feta. Toss well and check the seasoning. Divide among warm plates and scatter the remaining feta and the pine nuts over the top. Serve at once.
Smoked haddock with white beans and parsley
A little bacon enhances the flavor of smoked fish in this surf-and-turf combination. If you cannot find smoked haddock, you can substitute other smoked white fish.
SERVES 4
White beans and parsley:
4 cups soaked dried white beans (cannellini or navy)
3 thick slices of lean bacon, roughly chopped
few sprigs of fresh thyme
½ head of garlic, cut horizontally
handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped
Smoked haddock:
2 thick slices of lean bacon, chopped
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 skinless fillets of smoked haddock, about 1¼ pounds in total
2 tablespoons butter, cut in pieces
few sprigs of fresh thyme
handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves only
Put the beans, bacon, thyme, and garlic in a pan and add water to cover. Bring to a boil and boil until the beans are soft, 1–1¼ hours. Use a slotted spoon to transfer half the beans to a blender. Add a ladleful or two of the cooking liquid and blitz to a fine purée. Transfer the purée to a clean saucepan. Drain the remaining beans, reserving the cooking liquid, and add to the purée. Remove and discard the bacon, thyme stems, and garlic. Stir to mix the beans with the purée, adding a little more cooking liquid if the mixture is too thick. Keep warm.
For the smoked haddock, fry the bacon in half the oil until crisp. Drain on paper towels.
Heat another frying pan with the remaining oil until hot. Add the haddock fillets to the pan and fry for a minute. Add the butter, then throw in the thyme sprigs and parsley leaves. As the butter melts and foams, spoon it over the fish to baste. Fry until the fish is just cooked through, 1–2 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and transfer to a warm plate, reserving the excess butter and oil. Let the fish rest for a couple of minutes.
Meanwhile, reheat the beans if necessary, and stir through the chopped parsley. Season to taste with black pepper. (You probably won’t need salt because of the bacon and haddock.) Spoon the beans onto warm plates and lay the smoked haddock fillets on top. Add the crisp bacon and a little oil and butter from the pan in which you cooked the fish. Garnish with parsley leaves and serve.
Gordon’s posh kedgeree
I’ve cooked many versions of Anglo-Indian kedgeree in my life. This is the one I make when we have guests staying over the weekend. It makes a great Saturday or Sunday brunch—rice is ideal if you have a hangover.
SERVES 4–6
2¾ cups chicken or fish stock (see Chapter 9)
few sprigs of fresh thyme
pinch of saffron strands
9 ounces skinless, lightly smoked salmon fillet
7 ounces large raw shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 large shallots, minced
2 tablespoons butter, cut in pieces
1 teaspoon mild curry powder
2 cups basmati rice
12 quail eggs, at room temperature
handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped
lemon wedges for garnish
Put the stock, thyme, saffron, and a little salt and pepper into a saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then gently lower the salmon fillet into the stock and poach for 4 minutes. Lift the fish out with a slotted spatula onto a warm plate. Add the shrimp to the stock and poach just until they turn firm and opaque, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp to the plate of salmon. Cover with foil and keep warm.
Strain the stock and discard the thyme; set aside. Return the pan to the heat and add the olive oil, shallots, and some seasoning. Fry, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are soft but not browned, 4–6 minutes. Add the butter and curry powder. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes, then tip in the rice. Stir and cook for 2 minutes longer, to toast the rice lightly.
Add a generous seasoning of salt and pepper and pour in the stock. Stir and bring to a simmer. Cover the pan with a lid and let simmer for 10 minutes. Without lifting the lid, remove the pan from the heat and let the rice stand for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook the quail eggs in boiling water for 3 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold running water. Crack and peel off the skins, then cut each egg in half.
Fluff the rice with a fork to separate the grains, then taste and adjust the seasoning, adding a bit more butter if you wish. Break the salmon fillet into large flakes and add to the rice, along with the shrimp and most of the chopped parsley. Gently mix the ingredients through the rice. Pile onto warm plates and garnish with the quail eggs, remaining parsley, and lemon wedges. Serve at once.
Spinach, mushroom, and ricotta cannelloni
Like the grilled vegetable lasagne on Chapter 2, this is another delicious dish that’s definitely not just for vegetarians. It can be prepared in advance, and then put into the oven about 20 minutes before you’re ready to eat.
SERVES 6
10 ounces fresh lasagne sheets (about 12)
2–3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
Cheese sauce:
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon English mustard
pinch of cayenne pepper
1¼ cups milk
½ cup grated Cheddar
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
1 cup crème fraîche or heavy cream
Filling:
1 tablespoon butter
14 ounces spinach leaves, washed
nutmeg for grating
1 pound cremini mushrooms, sliced
2 cups ricotta
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
First, prepare the sauce. Melt the butter in a saucepan and stir in the flour, mustard, and cayenne. Stir over low heat for 2–3 minutes. Slowly whisk in the milk until smooth. Simmer, stirring, for 5 minutes to cook out the flour. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cheeses until they have melted and the sauce is smooth. Transfer to a bowl and let cool. Once cooled, stir in the crème fraîche. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
To prepare the filling, melt the butter in a pan and add the spinach, some seasoning, and a light grating of nutmeg. Cook over high heat until the spinach has wilted, then tip into a colander set over a large bowl and let cool. Return the pan to the heat and add the olive oil, mushrooms, and some seasoning. Sauté the mushrooms until tender and any juices released have evaporated, 3–4 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and let cool. Give the spinach a light squeeze to remove excess moisture and add to the mushrooms. Stir in the ricotta and Parmesan. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Roll the cannelloni one at a time: Place a lasagne sheet on a cutting board. Spoon 2 tablespoons of filling along one end, leaving a bit of space at both edges, and roll up. Place on a tray, joined-side down. Repeat with the remaining pasta and filling.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Spread half the cheese sauce over the bottom of a large baking dish and arrange the cannelloni in a single layer on top. Spread the remaining sauce over the cannelloni to cover, then sprinkle with the Parmesan. Bake until the topping is golden brown, 15–20 minutes. Bring to the table and serve at once.
Goat cheese, beet, and lentil salad
Baking beets in a salt crust intensifies the flavor. This salad combines sweet roasted beets with earthy lentils and creamy goat cheese. The marinated beet slices are optional, but they do add to the beauty of the salad.
SERVES 4
Baked beets:
1 pound red or mixed beets of similar size
rock salt or coarse sea salt
leaves stripped from a few sprigs of fresh thyme
Lentils:
¾ cup Umbrian castelluccio or Puy lentils, rinsed and drained
½ cup chopped lean bacon
1 carrot
2 celery ribs
few sprigs of fresh thyme
Marinated beets (optional):
2 baby beets, preferably Chioggia or candy cane variety
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
For serving:
handful of mixed salad leaves
handful each of fresh flat-leaf parsley and mint, leaves chopped
7 ounces goat cheese, crumbled or chopped
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Wash and dry the beets, then trim off the tops. Spread a thin layer of rock salt on a large piece of foil. Scatter on the thyme leaves and put the beets in the middle. Bring up the edges of the foil to seal in the beets and salt. Bake until tender when pierced with a small sharp knife, 30–40 minutes.
Prepare the lentils by putting all the ingredients in a pan with enough water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a simmer and cook until the lentils are tender, 15–20 minutes. When cooked, drain the lentils. Discard the bacon, vegetables, and thyme sprigs.
Meanwhile, if making the marinated beets, peel them and thinly slice with a mandoline. Place in a bowl. Drizzle the olive oil and balsamic vinegar over the beet slices and season. Let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 15–20 minutes.
Unwrap the beet parcel and let some of the heat disperse. While the beets are still warm, peel using a small knife (wear rubber gloves to avoid staining your hands). Cut into quarters. Divide the baked beets and lentils among individual serving plates. Garnish each plate with marinated beet slices, if using, and add salad leaves, herbs, and goat cheese.
Wild mushroom-barley risotto
Pearl barley adds a nutty flavor to this risotto, and it provides an interesting base for wild mushrooms. Barley is very easy to cook with—not as high-maintenance as risotto rice—because you can leave it to simmer without needing to stir it constantly.
SERVES 4
14 ounces wild mushrooms (such as cèpes or porcini, trompettes de la mort, and chanterelles)
3½ cups chicken or vegetable stock (see Chapter 9)
1½ tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, minced
1 cup pearl barley
splash of dry white wine
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan
2 tablespoons mascarpone
handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves minced
Clean the mushrooms and thickly slice the large ones. Set aside while you start the risotto.
Bring the stock to a gentle simmer in a medium saucepan. Meanwhile, heat the butter and a tablespoon of olive oil in a large saucepan or sauté pan and add the onion and a little seasoning. Gently fry the onion, stirring occasionally, until it begins to soften, 4–6 minutes. Tip in the barley and stir well to coat. Toast the barley for 2 minutes, stirring frequently.
Add the splash of wine and let it bubble until reduced by half. Stir in two-thirds of the hot stock and simmer, stirring every once in a while, until the barley has absorbed almost all the liquid. Add more stock, a ladleful at a time, and simmer until the barley is just tender. (You may not need all the stock.) Stir in the Parmesan and mascarpone and season well to taste. Remove the pan from the heat and cover with a lid to keep warm.
Heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan. Fry the mushrooms with some seasoning until they are lightly browned and any moisture released has evaporated, 3–4 minutes. Add the mushrooms to the risotto and stir well to mix.
Divide the risotto among warm plates and sprinkle with the minced parsley. Serve immediately.
Herby rice pilaf with pistachios and almonds
This sweetly perfumed rice pilaf is ideal with a good curry (see the goat curry on Chapter 4) or with baked fish.
SERVES 4
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 Spanish or mild onion, chopped
1½ cups basmati rice
1 cinnamon stick
3 star anise
pared zest of 1 lemon and 1 orange
2¼ cups hot water
½ cup roughly chopped, toasted almonds and pistachios
large handful of mixed fresh herbs, such as flat-leaf parsley, cilantro, mint, chervil, and chives, leaves chopped
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Cut a circle of parchment paper slightly larger than a heavy-based, stovetop-to-oven casserole. Snip a small hole in the middle of the paper to serve as a steam vent.
Heat the casserole with the oil and sauté the onion until it begins to soften, 4–6 minutes. Stir in the rice, cinnamon, star anise, lemon and orange zests, and some salt and pepper. Stir well and toast the rice for a couple of minutes. Pour in the hot water and bring to a boil. Take the pot off the heat and quickly cover with the parchment paper before transferring to the oven.
Bake until the rice is tender and has absorbed most of the water, 20–25 minutes. Remove the casserole from the oven and let stand for about 5 minutes. Discard the parchment paper and fork the rice to separate the grains. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then stir through the chopped nuts and herbs.
fish and shellfish
To cook good food, you need to start with the best-quality ingredients you can find. This is paramount when it comes to fish and shellfish. We are fortunate to live near a fantastic fishmonger. The shop is tiny, but it stocks a variety of incredibly fresh seafood. Whenever we get the chance, Tana and I take the kids with us, because we feel it is important for them to see the amazing diversity of seafood on offer. They are growing up knowing what the different fish look like.
Sustainable fishing is an issue that is important to me. Over recent years, I’ve been trying to encourage the use of less expensive but sustainable fish, such as herrin
g, mackerel, whiting, and trout. Of course I also enjoy cooking and eating scallops, oysters, halibut, and sea bass, but only every once in a while. The goal is to be conscious of what you buy and vary what you cook to keep things different and exciting.
Fish curry with lime and coconut rice
Breaded and fried oysters with sauce gribiche
Smoked trout pâté with horseradish cream and melba toasts
Whiting in piquant tomato sauce
Stuffed bream wrapped with bacon
Thai-style fishcakes with sweet chili sauce
Clams with bacon
Sea bass with olives, tomatoes, and fennel
Broiled herring with harissa
Red mullet with tomatoes, olives, and anchovies
Fisherman’s stew
Poached halibut with creamy white wine and tarragon sauce
Deviled mackerel with tomato and fennel salad and horseradish potatoes
Grilled scallop and shrimp brochettes with cilantro-chili butter
Fish curry with lime and coconut rice
I was inspired to make this curry after a glorious vacation in Thailand, where we ate spicy Thai food for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Any combination of fish and shellfish will work for this curry, although firm-textured fish that won’t disintegrate as it cooks is best. You can leave the skins on to prevent the fish from breaking up.
SERVES 4
Fish curry:
14 ounces monkfish fillets, cut into bite-size chunks
1¾ cups coconut milk, mixed with 1¾ cups water