Cooking for Friends
Page 10
10 ounces, or about 2/3 recipe, basic short pastry (see Chapter 9)
2/3 cup crème fraîche
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
grated zest of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon lemon juice
¾ cup crumbled Dolcelatte
1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten
1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash
Remove the outer leaves from the leeks and trim off the ends, then slice finely. Melt the butter in a large pan over medium heat. As it begins to foam, add the leeks, thyme, and some salt and pepper. Cover the pan and cook until the leeks are soft but not colored, 8–10 minutes. Lift the lid and give the leeks a stir every once in a while. Remove the lid and stir over high heat to evaporate any excess moisture in the leeks. Transfer to a mixing bowl and let cool.
Preheat the oven to 400°F with a large baking sheet inside. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface to about 1/8-inch thickness. Cut out a 10-inch-diameter circle. Drape the pastry over the rolling pin and transfer to another baking sheet.
Mix the crème fraîche, Parmesan, grated lemon zest and juice, and three-quarters of the Dolcelatte with the leeks. Season to taste, then stir in the egg.
Spread the leek and cheese filling evenly over the pastry, leaving a 1-inch border. Scatter the remaining Dolcelatte over the filling. Fold the pastry border in over the filling and carefully crimp the edges. Brush the crimped edges with the egg wash.
Put the tart on its baking sheet onto the hot sheet in the oven. Bake for 20 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 350°F and continue baking until the pastry is golden brown, 15–20 minutes longer. Let cool for 5 minutes before slicing and serving.
Wild mushroom tart with Parmesan and walnut pastry
The flavors in this tart are earthy and rich. When wild mushrooms are in season, I use a combination of cèpes (porcini), chanterelles, trompettes de la mort, and any others that are available. At other times of year, a mixture of sliced portabellos and cremini mushrooms does the job.
SERVES 4–6
10 ounces, or about 2/3 recipe, walnut and Parmesan pastry (see Chapter 9)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 shallots, minced
leaves from a few sprigs of fresh thyme
12 ounces mixed fresh wild mushrooms, large ones sliced
1 cup crème fraîche
½ cup heavy cream
1 extra-large egg
1 extra-large egg yolk
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to about 1/8-inch thickness, then use it to line a tart pan with a removable bottom that is 9–10 inches in diameter and 1½–1¾ inches deep. Leave a little excess pastry hanging over the sides. Let rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line the pastry shell with foil and fill it with pie weights. Bake until the pastry is set and lightly golden, 15–20 minutes. Remove the foil and weights and return to the oven to bake until the pastry is golden brown, about 5 minutes longer. Remove from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 325°F. Use a sharp knife to trim off the overhanging pastry, then set the pastry shell aside to cool.
Meanwhile, prepare the filling: Melt the butter in a frying pan and add the shallots. Sauté the shallots until they begin to soften, 3–4 minutes. Add the thyme leaves, mushrooms, and some salt and pepper. Fry the mushrooms over high heat until any moisture they release has evaporated, 4–5 minutes. Transfer the mushroom mixture to a bowl and let cool.
For the custard, whisk together the crème fraîche, heavy cream, egg, egg yolk, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl.
Once cooled, spread the mushrooms evenly in the tart shell and pour in the custard. Bake the tart until the custard is golden and slightly puffed, 35–45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for a few minutes before unmolding. Slice and serve warm or at room temperature.
vegetables and salads
I’ve included a selection of vegetable dishes and salads using seasonal ingredients in this chapter. Even as a young lad, I understood the importance and joy of eating locally grown fruits and vegetables. My dad moved us around a lot, and in one place we lived I used to spend summer vacations cutting asparagus or picking potatoes for spending money. Lunch was usually a simple soup made with vegetable trimmings, but it tasted of the garden because the ingredients were super-fresh. When the season gets into full swing, taste a home-grown asparagus spear alongside an imported one, and you’ll know what I mean.
Walnut, celery, endive, and apple salad
Roasted winter vegetables
Glazed Brussels sprouts with chestnuts and pancetta
Roasted tomatoes with marjoram
Spicy cauliflower stir-fry
Braised celery hearts with bacon
Caramelized fennel and red onions
Artichokes braised with onions and bacon
Endive, goat cheese, and strawberry salad with pine nuts
New potato, pea, and fava bean salad with mustard dressing
Grilled eggplant with balsamic, feta, and mint
Mixed mushroom salad
Braised red cabbage with apple
Pickled onions
Piccalilli
Walnut, celery, endive, and apple salad
This is a simple, modern take on the classic Waldorf salad. To make it a main course, you can add slices of cold smoked chicken or leftover roast chicken or turkey.
SERVES 4
2 heads of Belgian endive
4 celery ribs
2 apples
squeeze of lemon juice
handful of toasted walnut halves, chopped
Dressing:
3 tablespoons mayonnaise (see Chapter 9)
2 tablespoons plain yogurt
½ teaspoon celery salt
1 tablespoon lemon juice
First, prepare the dressing by combining all the ingredients in a bowl and seasoning with black pepper to taste.
Trim off the bases of the endive heads and separate the leaves. Scatter a few leaves over each serving plate. Trim and roughly chop the celery, including any leaves, then place in a bowl. Core and thinly slice the apples, add to the celery, and toss with a little lemon juice to prevent them from discoloring. Add half the walnuts and toss well. Divide among the serving plates and scatter the remaining walnuts over the top. Either drizzle the dressing over the salad or serve in individual bowls on the side.
Roasted winter vegetables
I’m a big fan of root vegetables, particularly the less attractive ones that tend to be overlooked in the vegetable display, such as celery root, rutabaga, and kohlrabi. Each vegetable has a distinctive flavor that is intensified when roasted. An obvious pairing with any roast, this dish can also be converted into a vegetarian main course with the addition of some robust salad leaves, a creamy yogurt dressing, and a sprinkling of soft goat cheese.
SERVES 4–6
½ large rutabaga
½ large turnip
½ large celery root
1 kohlrabi (optional)
2 large carrots
2 large parsnips
olive oil for drizzling
few sprigs of fresh thyme and rosemary, leaves stripped
clear honey for drizzling (optional)
Heat the oven to 400°F with one large or two medium roasting pans inside. Peel the rutabaga, turnip, celery root, and kohlrabi, if using, then cut them into ¾-inch-thick chunks. Peel the carrots and parsnips and cut lengthwise into halves or quarters, similar to the thickness of the other root vegetables.
Put all the vegetables in a large bowl and drizzle a little olive oil over them. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and the herbs. Toss well to coat. Remove the roasting pan(s) from the oven and spread the vegetables in the pan(s) in an even layer. Roast until the vegetables are golden brown and tender, 25–30 minutes, turning them over halfway throu
gh the cooking.
If you wish, toss the vegetables with a light drizzle of honey to glaze. Tip onto a warm serving platter and serve.
Glazed Brussels sprouts with chestnuts and pancetta
When cooked properly, these nutritious little cabbages are delicious, especially when matched with pancetta and chestnuts. For extra flavor, sprinkle on some freshly grated Parmesan and toasted sliced almonds.
SERVES 4
1 pound Brussels sprouts
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
4 slices of pancetta, chopped
7 ounces vacuum-packed roasted, peeled chestnuts, roughly chopped
small pinch of red-pepper flakes
leaves stripped from a sprig of fresh thyme
Trim off a little of the base from each Brussels sprout. Cook the sprouts in a pan of boiling salted water until they are crisp-tender, 8–10 minutes. Drain and refresh in a bowl of ice water until cooled, then drain again. Cut the sprouts in half through the core so that they will take in more flavor from the other ingredients.
Just before you are ready to serve, heat the oil and butter in a pan and fry the pancetta until it is golden brown and crisp. Add the chestnuts, pepper flakes, and thyme leaves and stir over medium to high heat to warm the chestnuts. Add the blanched sprouts with a splash of water. Stir-fry until the sprouts are warmed through and excess liquid has evaporated, 1–2 minutes. Season generously with black pepper, then transfer to a warm platter and serve.
Roasted tomatoes with marjoram
Roasting tomatoes intensifies their flavor, and they make an appetizing addition to salads and pasta dishes, or accompaniment for fish, poultry, or meat.
SERVES 4
1¾ pounds vine-ripened plum or Roma tomatoes
2 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
leaves from a handful of fresh marjoram
3–4 tablespoons olive oil
Heat the oven to 300°F. Halve the tomatoes lengthwise and place cut-side up in a shallow baking dish, making sure they are well spaced. Place a slice of garlic on each tomato half, then scatter the marjoram leaves over them. Drizzle on a little olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Bake for 30 minutes, basting the tomatoes with the pan juices halfway through the cooking. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Spicy cauliflower stir-fry
Fragrant and warm Indian spices can really improve the flavor of the relatively bland cauliflower, which explains why many recipes for cauliflower soup include a dash of curry powder. This dish makes a wonderful accompaniment in an Indian meal. I also like to serve it with fried fish.
SERVES 4
1 medium head of cauliflower, about 1¼ pounds
½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds
½ teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1/3 teaspoon ground turmeric
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, finely sliced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 large, fresh, red chili pepper, deseeded and minced
½ cup vegetable or chicken stock (see Chapter 9)
Cut the cauliflower into small florets and set aside. Lightly toast the fenugreek, coriander, and cumin seeds in a dry pan until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Tip into a mortar and add the ground turmeric and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Grind to a fine powder.
Heat the oil in a large pan or a wok. Add the onions and a little salt and pepper. Stir over low heat until the onions are soft but not browned, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic, chili, and ground spices and stir-fry for 1 minute longer.
Add the cauliflower florets and pour in the stock. Cook, stirring frequently, until the cauliflower is just tender and most of the stock has been absorbed or evaporated, 6–8 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning and serve warm.
Braised celery hearts with bacon
Tender and flavorful braised celery hearts are especially good with pork and chicken. For a simple weeknight supper, serve with poached chicken breasts and steamed rice or creamy polenta.
SERVES 4–6
4–6 celery hearts or whole bunches of celery
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 thick slices of lean bacon, chopped into cubes
2 large garlic cloves, finely sliced
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
1¼ cups chicken or vegetable stock (see Chapter 9)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
If using whole bunches of celery, cut 6–8 inches off the top half and reserve to use in soups or salads. Remove the tough outer ribs until you reach the tender, light yellowish-green hearts. Quarter the hearts lengthwise.
Heat the oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the bacon and fry until golden around the edges, 4–5 minutes. Add the garlic and fry for 1 minute longer. Add the oregano, stock, and tomato paste to the pan and stir well to mix.
Add the celery hearts. Partially cover and gently simmer until tender when pierced with a skewer, 20–30 minutes. Transfer the celery and any sauce in the pan to a platter and serve warm.
Caramelized fennel and red onions
Fennel and onions have similar qualities: Both become tender, sweet, and mellow when cooked, and caramelizing them helps to bring out their natural sugars. This easy side dish is ideal with roast pork or chicken.
SERVES 4
2 large fennel bulbs
4 large red (or white) onions
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup dry white wine
½ cup chicken or vegetable
stock (see Chapter 9)
2 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces
Trim off the bases from the fennel bulbs, then cut them lengthwise into thick wedges. Cut the peeled onions into quarters. Set aside.
Tip the fennel seeds into a mortar with a seasoning of salt and pepper. Grind to a powder. Sprinkle this over the onions and fennel.
Heat a wide sauté pan with the olive oil until hot. In batches, fry the onions and fennel over high heat until golden brown, 2–3 minutes on each side. Return all the browned onion and fennel to the pan, then pour in the wine and stock and dot the butter over the vegetables. Cover with a dampened piece of crumpled parchment paper and then with a lid. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until nearly all of the wine has been absorbed, 30–40 minutes. Transfer to a warm platter and serve.
Artichokes braised with onions and bacon
This dish is based on artichauts à la barigoule, a classic provençale dish in which artichokes are gently poached in fragrant stock, which is then boiled down to make a sauce. It’s perfect with any white or oily fish.
SERVES 4
1 lemon, halved
8 medium-sized globe artichokes
2–3 tablespoons olive oil
1 thick slice of lean bacon, chopped into cubes
1 small onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
few sprigs of fresh thyme
few sprigs of fresh basil, stems and leaves separated
½ teaspoon coriander seeds
1/3 cup dry white wine
1¾ cups chicken stock (see Chapter 9)
Fill a large bowl with water and squeeze the lemon halves into it. Working with one artichoke at a time, cut across in half. Discard the top and pull off the outer green leaves until you reach the tender yellow leaves. If the artichoke is old, scrape out the hairy choke with a melon baller or spoon. Trim and peel the base and stem, then quarter the heart. Add to the bowl of lemon water. Repeat with the remaining artichokes.
Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium pan. Drain the artichokes and pat dry with a clean dish towel. In batches, fry the artichokes, cut-side down, until the edges are golden brown. Remove to a plate and set aside.
Add the bacon cubes to the pan and sauté until slightly browned, 4–5 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 4–6 minutes. Add the garlic, thyme, basil stems, and coriand
er seeds, then deglaze the pan with the wine. Boil until reduced by two-thirds, then pour in the chicken stock. Bring back to a boil and simmer until reduced by half.
Return the artichokes to the pan. Simmer until they are tender, 8–10 minutes, turning them over halfway through the cooking time. Remove the artichokes and most of the onions and bacon to a plate, then boil the sauce until reduced to a syrupy glaze. Return the artichokes, onions, and bacon to the pan and toss to coat with the sauce.
Adjust the seasoning and transfer the vegetables to a warm bowl. Tear the basil leaves and scatter them over the artichokes.
Endive, goat cheese, and strawberry salad with pine nuts
This fresh and colorful salad says summer to me. I’ve also made it with raspberries, tumbling a handful over each plate and thickening the dressing with a few crushed berries.
SERVES 4–5
2 heads of Belgian endive
4 ounces small arugula leaves
5 ounces strawberries, hulled and quartered (1–2 cups)
1/3 cup toasted pine nuts
7 ounces soft goat cheese
Dressing:
1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar
3 tablespoons raspberry vinegar
7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
pinch of sugar
Trim off the base of the chicory heads and pull apart the leaves. Place in a salad bowl with the arugula leaves and toss lightly. Scatter the strawberries and pine nuts over the leaves, then crumble the goat cheese on top.
Just before serving, whisk together all the ingredients for the dressing with seasoning to taste (or put them into a tightly covered jar and shake well). Drizzle the dressing over the salad (you may not need all of the dressing) and toss.