Living on One Acre or Less

by Sally Morgan

  A glade in a forest garden creates a variety of microclimates and supports more biodiversity.

  A water feature

  A small pond on the plot will attract useful animals, such as frogs and toads and possibly grass snakes, and provide drinking water for mammals such as hedgehogs. It doesn’t have to be large, and could perhaps be sited in a quiet corner where the wildlife won’t be disturbed. If you are harvesting water on the site, any overflow water could be directed into the pond. In our walled garden, water from one of our barns is directed into a dipping pond, and from there any overflow goes into a large duck and carp pond (see Chapter 10). The water in the dipping pond is enough to water the vegetable beds all summer, and it’s quick and easy to fill a bucket with water, so a hose is unnecessary.

  Fencing

  There are various factors to consider when deciding on the location of a fenced pasture. The shape makes a big difference to the length of fence required for a given area: the squarer it is, the less fence you need. Avoid any acute corners, as they are awkward to get into with machinery. Shade, slope, access to water and the type of livestock are also key factors. The priority must be fences along roads and around areas from which livestock must be excluded or contained: these will normally be fixed or permanent fences. Paddocks can be subdivided with temporary fences, such as flexi-nets to change the grazing areas and to respond to changes in grass availability.

  Stock fencing

  Stock fencing is a long-term, permanent option, and (as the name suggests) is used to contain livestock. It comes in a range of sizes, with different heights and mesh patterns to suit different animals, and can be used with two additional lines of wire to increase the height of the fence. The netting is fixed to either round or half-round stakes and is supported at ends, at corners and at every change of direction by straining posts, which have bracing struts for additional strength. If you are fencing in pigs, which take great delight in digging under unprotected fencing, it is best to add a single strand of electric fencing along the bottom on the inside.

  Positioning posts for stock fences

  Setting posts correctly is one of the most important factors in fence strength. The correct depth depends on the diameter of the post and your soil type. Generally, in medium to heavy clay soils, a post is placed at a depth equal to 10 times its diameter. In sandier soils, the depth should be 15 times the diameter. At these depths, the post would break before it uproots. The spacing of posts varies with the fence type and the lie of the land. Posts are usually positioned every 3m (10'), but where the land slopes, posts are placed at the top and bottom of the slope to ensure the fence follows the contours.

  Electric fencing

  Electric fencing is the quickest and most cost-effective way to contain livestock. It is easy to install and repair, and usually requires fewer posts than stock fencing. Electric fence can be temporary or permanent. You will need reels of wire or tape or netting, posts, insulators, an energizer, and a power source such as a 12V battery or access to mains power. Such electric fences require no tools for set-up, minimal bracing, and use lightweight plastic line posts.

  Electric fences, whether portable or permanent, use galvanized wire, polywire or polytape to transmit the shock. Polywire is a braided or twisted polyethylene cord with three, six or nine strands of stainless-steel wire running through it. Polytape, as the name suggests, is a woven flat polyethylene tape, also with several wires running through it. It is more visible than polywire, and it tends to flutter in the wind, making it easy for animals to spot and avoid. It is the wire that carries the electricity in both polytape and polywire, so the more strands the better: nine is best, six is adequate, but avoid three. I prefer to use galvanized wire because, even though it is a little harder to handle, it is much more effective electrically (it is easier to get a good join and has less electrical loss).

  It is almost always best to use galvanized wire for permanent electric fencing and for fencing around pigs, though we often add a polytape top line so that animals and humans can easily see the fence (See Chapter 8, page 169). Due to the long lengths of wire, reels are an essential part of putting out and retrieving electric fences. If fences are to be erected and dismantled regularly, it may pay to invest in a geared reel.

  Permanent electric fences will need either wood or steel corner posts with insulators, though you can still use plastic intermediate line posts. Whether wood or plastic, the line post needs to be rigid enough to withstand wind but flexible enough to bend under excessive pressure. It is important to keep the fence free of vegetation, so you can either strim under the fence regularly or, to avoid this necessity, place a strip of ground-cover fabric along the line of the fence. At gateways you can put the wire in a length of piping, so people can step over it safely, or use sprung coils of wire to create a removable barrier.

  Our permanent 9-strand electric fence around our poultry field has lasted for 10 years with minimal maintenance.

  Remember that you should put warning signs on the fence if it is somewhere the general public could come into contact with it, such as beside a footpath.

  Flexi-nets

  One option for poultry and sheep is flexible electric netting. It usually comes complete with plastic posts and a mains- or battery-powered battery unit, and can be moved from place to place quite easily and rolled up when not needed. It comes in different heights and is generally sold in lengths of 25m or 50m (82' or 164') with gates. A 50m roll creates a pen of approximately 156m2 (1,680 sq ft). The difficulty with this form of netting, however, is keeping the bottom strands free of vegetation. Although it can be used as an external perimeter for sheep, it is better as an internal barrier or divider in a stock-fenced field.

  These hens are contained by 50m (164') of electric poultry netting, which is 110cm (3'8") tall.

  Energizers

  It is important to choose a suitable energizer for the fence. It can be powered by mains electricity or by 6V or 12V DC batteries; some use solar panels to recharge the batteries. Energ izers are often rated in terms of length of wire: the longer the fence, the more powerful the energizer has to be in order to send an effective charge throughout its length. All energizers need to cope with adverse conditions, such as wet weather, contact with vegetation, bad ground conditions and poor joins in the wire. The voltage present at any point on the fence where an animal comes into contact with it typi cally ranges from 2,000V to 4,000V. Usually 2,000V is sufficient for cattle, but 4,000V is better for sheep and poultry, due to the animals’ naturally thick insulation.

  Solar panels can recharge energizer batteries automatically. They must be sited in direct sunlight and oriented to receive the maximum amount of light possible.

  Grounding

  One of the most common failures in an electric fencing system is poor grounding, which results in weak shocks. The electricity must be able to complete a circuit back to the energizer through the ground, so you have to fit ground rods of copper or steel to provide an effective ‘earth’.

  Invest in a fence checker

  When you have a busy routine, it’s easy to forget to check that your electric fence is working every day – and you certainly can’t afford for your animals to get out or a fox to get in. So invest in a fence checker. These are hung on one of the wires in an obvious position; ours flashes red if there is a problem, but others work by showing a green light when all is working correctly.

  Paths

  Access to the various parts of your plot is so much easier if you get the position of the paths right. But remember that paths can take up valuable growing space, so think carefully before positioning them. You will need a wide path or track with gentle turns for easy access to the paddocks for your livestock trailer and other large vehicles. Footpaths should be wide enough to take a wheelbarrow, so 60-70cm (24-28"); while the narrowest paths can be 30cm (12"), just enough to let you walk along and squat down.

  On our one-acre plot, we have an unfenced grassy area in front of the pens.
This is around 5m (16') wide, and we have access through a double gate for a tractor and trailer, so we can load up the pigs when they go to slaughter, or move sheep if necessary. Also, using an electric flexi-net, we can create a temporary enclosure for a chicken run or for grazing a couple of lambs or a gaggle of geese.

  Laying paths and tracks is an expensive business, so, where possible, opt for grassy paths which can be kept in check by regularly mowing in summer. For those areas where you don’t want grass or where grass simply won’t stand up to the traffic, you will probably want hogging (a compacted cover of gravel, sand and clay) or gravel. An intermediate option is to simply lay down a strip of ground-cover fabric. Depending on the soil type, you could simply leave the soil bare, if it’s not likely to get too muddy, as hoeing and walking will stop weeds germinating.

  In areas where you will have heavy vehicles parking and turning, it pays to prepare the area carefully. Dig out the surface to a depth of about 15-20cm (6-8"). Construct an edge with gravel boards and then lay a sub-base of crushed stone, rubble or hardcore, which is hammered down with a vibrating-plate compactor. To get a solid base without any gaps, you need to have a good mix of fine and large particles. The surface is then dressed with gravel. This type of track can last for many years.

  A well-laid gravel path will last many years, needing just the occasional top-up with gravel.

  Polytunnels

  An essential element of any holding in a temperate climate is an unheated polytunnel or large greenhouse, for extending the cropping season. Polytunnels are not the most attractive of structures, but they are much cheaper and easier to erect than greenhouses, and are therefore a good option unless there is a greenhouse already on-site or you can adapt an existing building. A polytunnel generally needs less maintenance than a greenhouse, although the plastic will need to be replaced every 4 to 7 years.

  I spend many hours in our polytunnel throughout the year. It is a large one, but I have no difficulty filling it with all manner of crops. There is space to put out the essentials, such as sum mer tomatoes, chillies, cucumbers, melons and salad crops, and still room to experiment with more unusual crops such as achocha or okra. We have crops growing in the polytunnel all year round; it’s a real pleasure to be able to eat freshly harvested leeks, spinach and celeriac in the middle of winter!

  Our polytunnel is 25m by 9m (82' by 30') and is oriented east–west. There is a hedge on the west side, far enough away to provide some shelter from the prevailing winds but not close enough to create shade on the tunnel. The hoops are buried in concrete for support and the plastic is buried in the ground.

  Our polytunnel lies in an east–west orientation near the entrance to the plot.

  Choosing and siting your polytunnel

  Before deciding on the type and position of a polytunnel, there are various points to consider.

  Orientation Most people opt for an east–west orientation, which means there is sun along the length of the tunnel all day, with a hot side and a cooler side. But temperatures inside during the hottest months can reach unbearable levels, whereas a north–south orientation, with its restricted exposure to the sun during the hottest hours of the day, means lower temperatures are experienced.

  Site levels Obviously, it’s better to erect your polytunnel on a flat site, as it makes installation much easier. It is possible to have a polytunnel on a sloping site, but great care needs to be taken with its installation, especially with the orientation of the hoops. Your supplier should be able to advise.

  Exposure Avoid an exposed, windy spot. If possible, choose a sunny site, far enough from any trees to eliminate any shading.

  Size It is generally worth going as large as your site and budget allow, but be aware that you may require planning permission, especially if the polytunnel will be close to houses or a road, and it may need some form of screening. Taller tunnels are more useful, as they have plenty of head room and space to hang things, but if your site is overlooked or is visible from a road, you may have to choose a lower one. Don’t forget that large polytunnels create a lot of water run-off and, in winter, a lot of snow may have to be cleared to avoid damage. You can buy second-hand hoops to make cost savings. When buying your frame, buy bracing bars that allow you to hang ropes and suspend pots, and which give more support in exposed windy locations.

  Style The classic shape is a semi-circular hoop, but you can get tunnels with straight sides, providing more workable space, or ones with a more greenhouse-like profile.

  Covering There are now several different kinds of covering available, most of which are polythene. Replacing the cover is a big job, so don’t economize on the polythene: a good-quality UV-stable cover can last 5 years or more. Avoid the temptation to buy cheap polythene from a builder’s merchant, as it won’t be UV-stabilized and will only last for a couple of years. Ideally, the thickness of the polythene should be 200 micron (800 gauge). For a bit extra, you can get an anti-fog polythene that reduces condensation and has improved heat retention. White polythene provides a cooler environment, which may suit some crops. Also, it is useful for tunnels where animals may be housed in winter, as there is less risk of the tunnel getting too hot on sunny days.

  If you have an exposed site, where a traditional polytunnel may get damaged, you might choose laminated plastic – which is a bit like bubble wrap. The laminations trap air, providing improved insulation and considerable strength: these covers can survive gales and heavy snow loads, and you can even walk on them! This plastic and framework may cost more, but the sections can be replaced and extensions added. The high heat retention extends the growing season without the need for supplementary heating, and the plastic also provides more diffuse lighting, as the light is scattered as it passes through the bubbles.

  This polytunnel is covered with a laminated plastic, which is much stronger than the usual type of polythene sheet.

  Cover fixing The cover has to be secured in place, and this is most commonly achieved by erecting the frame and then simply burying the plastic in a trench. Alternatively, the plastic can be attached to a wooden base rail. This is an easier option and makes for rapid replacement of the plastic when needed. However, the rails don’t prevent small furry mammals from digging underneath!

  Doors You will need large doors at each end that can be opened for access and ventilation. The latter is particularly important for a longer tunnel, where a lack of air movement can cause problems and lead to the build-up of pests and disease.

  Ventilation Temperatures in summer can exceed 40°C (104°F), even with the doors open. This can be reduced by shading the structure or by spraying water inside, though this is not ideal as some plants don’t like a humid environment. One alternative is a polytunnel with sides that can be raised in summer and the opening covered with insect mesh. We have a second set of doors on each end of our tunnel, made from insect mesh, for the same purpose.

  Access The polytunnel will be visited daily, so it needs to be easily accessible and, if possible, not at the far end of the plot, as you may want to bring in water and electrics, as well as barrowing in loads of compost and carrying away your harvest. There should be a clear area around it, ideally under a ground-cover fabric to stop weeds growing, because you will have to replace the plastic at some point and, if you have beds right up to the plastic, you won’t be able to do this easily. You will also need access for minor repairs and for washing down the cover.

  Accessories You’ll need some super-thick sticky repair tape, and some anti-hotspot foam tape to cover the frame, so there is no direct contact between the plastic and the metal.

  Solar tunnels

  An alternative to an ordinary polytunnel is a solar tunnel. This is a hybrid polytunnel-cumgreenhouse, and it is particularly useful on sites where a large area of plastic would be seen to be unattractive. Solar tunnels are stronger than ordinary plastic ones, as they are formed from a double layer of plastic with mesh reinforcement between. They have base rails and are often modular, so
they can be extended and are easier to relocate. The investment is greater but you end up with a more flexible tunnel.

  Controlling pests

  As soon as you start to keep animals, especially poultry, the pests arrive. Rats are the main problem for many smallholders, attracted by the free source of food. Always keep feed in a ratproof feed store or use metal bins. The use of automatic feed dispensers will help to discourage them too, as food is not on the ground. You will never to be able to get rid of rats completely, but you do have to keep them under control. Rats can be poisoned, shot or trapped. You will probably use all these methods at some point! Poison needs to be put down in bait boxes in places where livestock cannot reach it, and any dead rats must be disposed of. An air rifle can be a good way of killing the rats that emerge to feed on poultry food, and often you can find a local person happy to come and shoot for free. In areas where you do not want to put down poison you can use traps. You can buy snapshut-style fen traps, to place in roof spaces and where there are no other animals to get trapped, or live traps.