Falls of Brahmaputra, 178
Festival of Colours, see Holi (festival)
First World War, see Great War
Fodor’s Guide, 176
folktales, 78, 111
Fortnum & Mason, 178
France, 89
Gallipoli, 143
Gallipoli, 47
gambura, 156, 283–5, 292
Gandhi Suspension Bridge, 195
Ganges, 20
Garuda (eagle), 23
Garuda Rock, 247
geese, 31, 39, 165
Germany, 278, 291
Glastonbury, 128
Glencoe, 161
globalization, 124, 136, 339
goats, 2, 23, 26, 31, 40, 47, 93, 110, 207, 272, 292, 298, 337, 340
gods/goddesses, see individuals by name
Golo, 161
Google Earth, 13, 144
Great Earthquake (1950), 49–50, 98, 133
Great Escapes, 11
Great Trigonometrical Survey of India (1863), 139–40
Great War, 8, 143, 180, 259
Greenpeace, 134
grumbling ox, 304
Guidebook to Pemako (Guru Rinpoche), 194
Gulf of Thailand, 67
Guru Rinpoche, 175–91 passim, 203–4, 212, 217–23, 230, 236, 237, 243
Guru Rinpoche Day, 232
Guwahati, 16, 17–22, 24, 27, 64, 71, 113, 160, 163, 269, 333, 338
Guwahati University, 144
gyaling, 234
Gymkhana Club, Jorhat, 42–4
Hamburg, 107
Hanoi, 19, 28
Harvard University, 245
Headspace, 249
Hell Pass, 57
Herat, 15
The Hidden Land (Graham Bower), 29, 261, 274, 293
Highway 37, 31
Himachal Pradesh, 17, 339
Himalayan barbets, 97
Himalayan black bears, see bears
Himalayas, 5, 8, 11, 14–16, 30, 76, 84, 100, 111, 175, 178, 179, 226, 249, 302, 317
‘the Hump’, 57
Hindi pop music, 105, 196, 207, 248
Hindu:
customs, 99
festivals, 251–2, 340 (see also festivals by name)
mantras, 25
mythology, 195 (see also gods/goddesses by name)
shrines, 72
Hindu mythology, 23
Hinduism, 23
History of the Relations of the Government with the Hill Tribes of the North-East Frontier of Bengal (Mackenzie), 186
Ho Chi Minh Trail, 19, 87
Holi (festival), 251–3
Holland, 73
‘holy mountain of glass’, 148
hoolock gibbons, 76
hornbills, 97
Huawei, 99
Human Planet, 11
human sacrifice, 12, 23–5
hummingbirds, 97
igu, 124–5, 129, 131, 132, 133, 159–72
ili moo, 130
Illustrated War News, 79
Independence, 53
Indian Ocean, 56, 95
Indian tea trade, 42
India’s Got Talent, 128
Indo-China Frontier Highway, 216
Indochina, 19
ini la free, 163–4
Inner Line Permit, 7, 9, 185
Inni Maselo Jinu, 124, 129, 163, 339
Inspection Bungalow (hotel), 117, 120, 143–6, 160, 168, 170, 293
Iran, 335
IST (Indian Stretchable Time), 145
Itanagar, 165, 279
Jagar, 226
Jairampur, 61
Jamuna, 20
Jang, 306, 323, 325, 332
Japan, 53, 56, 57, 62, 79, 259, 260, 261, 262, 277, 280, 291
jathaap, 205
Jawaharlal Nehru State Museum, 276
Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery, 291
Jharkhand, 46
Jorhat, 41–5
Jorum Top Pass, 274
Kachin, 71, 95
Kailash, Mount, 20, 23, 247
Kalimpong, 198
Kamakhya (temple), 1, 22, 23, 24, 194, 223, 340
Kamalabari Vaishnavite (monastery), 41
Kameng River, 15, 299, 336
Kamlang River, 96
Kangto, Mount, 302
Kansas, 33
Karoi, 281–4, 288
Kashmir, 9
Kathmandu, 199
Kaziranga, 35, 36–7, 38, 46, 251, 254
Kepang La Pass, 201
khatas, 218, 243, 247, 317, 331
khepa, 166–7, 171
khinyu, 161
khundu, 124, 125
Khupa, 99, 102, 103–6, 107, 194
Krishna, 19
Kunming, 57
Ladakh, 9, 302
Lakshmi, 195
landslides, 15, 50, 99, 108–15 passim, 133, 177, 182, 299, 311
Laos, 90, 313
Led Zeppelin, 17
Ledo, 56, 59, 60
leopards, 6, 17, 18, 76, 79, 288, 339
lepidoptery, 13
Lhasa, 146, 307, 308
‘life consecration’, 219
‘little Tibet’, 303
Lohit District, 113
Lohit River, 15, 99
Lohit Valley, 88
Lorraine, 62
Lost Horizon (Hilton), 179, 180, 219
LSD, 222
lucky charms, 29
lung-ta, 200
Ma-Kum, 54
McMahon Line, 8, 9, 201, 259
magic, 12, 13, 46, 113, 150, 163–70 passim, 176–7, 180, 186, 194, 198, 205, 207, 227, 249, 291–2, 320, 332 (see also mysticism; sorcery)
Mahacotta, 216–17
Majuli Island, 41
malaria, 16, 30, 42, 52, 59, 154, 279
Malaysia, 56
Malini, 135
Manali, 11
Margherita, 53, 54, 56, 59, 61
market towns, 184
Maryland, 180
Mathun River, 137, 147, 151, 160
Mathun Valley, 144–5
Mayodia Pass, 119
meditation, 23, 69, 194, 198–9, 207, 222–3, 235, 249, 308, 322, 326
mekhela chadar, 338
mela shikar, 73
merum, 185
Miami Vice, 75
Miao, 64–5, 74, 75, 76, 84, 86
Michigan, 279, 291
Milan, 131
Mipi, 147–9, 156, 157–8
Mishmi Hills, 88, 89, 97, 109, 132, 141
Missouri, 291
mithun, 92, 124–32 passim, 136, 156, 157, 164, 165, 204, 208,212, 230, 235, 236, 262, 265, 272, 273, 289, 304, 338
Mizoram, 265
Mondulkiri Death Highway, 87
Mongolia, 77, 78, 111, 177, 303
monkeys, 96, 319, 337
monsoon, 15, 30, 32, 37, 41, 58, 82, 103–19 passim, 338
Mu-La, 151
mudslides, 58
Mumbai, 11, 170
Myoko (festival), 265, 267
Mysore, 198
mysticism, 24, 161, 175–8, 198, 249 (see also magic; sorcery)
Naga Hills, 30, 260
Nagaland, 10, 11, 14, 37, 44, 51, 59, 60, 61, 77, 78–9, 265
Namdapha, 71, 75, 76, 77, 81, 84, 100, 164
Nameri eco-camp, 337
Nameri National Park, 298
Nani Intaya, 129
National Geographic, 11
National Socialist Council of Nagaland, 60
Native Route, 13
Navrati (festival), 340
nen jurma, 326
Nepal, 37, 72, 117, 118, 120, 153, 168
Nestorianism, 219
New Orleans, 271
New York, 131
Niagara Falls, 142
Nigeria, 271
Nimati Ghat, 40
No Passport to Tibet (Bailey), 138–9, 263
Noa-Dihing River, 72, 80–1, 84
Norfolk, 186
North East Frontier Agency, 9, 98
Nyering, 204
nyibu, 267–8, 269, 272
ob
esity, 240
Omaha Beach, 62
Opium Wars, 42
Orissa, 46, 52, 160
ox, 304
Oxygène, 47
Pacific Ocean, 56
Padma, 20
Padma Shri, 230, 246
Pakistan, 10, 175, 335
paleo-Mongoloid peoples, 77–8
panda, 22, 340–1, 342
pandas, red, 76, 312
Pangsau Pass, 57, 61
Paradise Hotel, 42
‘The Paradox of our Age’ (Dalai Lama), 240
Parshuram Kund, 99–100
Pasighat, 172, 183, 184, 186, 188, 282
Patkai Hills, 14, 30, 54, 55, 59, 77
Pattaya, 67
Paynigem, 244
Pearl Harbor, 277
Pemako, 148, 176, 177, 178, 180–1, 192, 194–9, 202–10, 211–14 passim, 216, 220, 221, 225, 227, 231, 236, 242–56, 323
Pemako Falls, 8
People’s Liberation Army, 9
Philippines, 78
pigs, 118, 130–1, 136, 151, 157, 165–6, 203, 207, 272, 273, 294
pilgrimage, 100, 139, 148, 177, 181, 193, 194, 198, 199, 206, 220, 223, 229, 246, 311
pilgrimage rock, 215, 234
Planet Earth II, 17, 339
poaching, 37–8, 84
ponies, 244, 317, 319
population growth, 14, 30, 71, 84, 180
Potala, 307
Pragjyotishpura, 18
prasad, 236
Protected Area Permits, 194, 299
protector deities, 177, 214, 228, 236
puja, 18, 22, 54–5, 194, 195, 213, 228, 231–3, 236, 237, 248, 340
Punjab, 253
pythons, 6, 288
‘rainbow body’, 212
Real Madrid, 328
reh (festival), 117, 160
reincarnation, 198, 199, 204, 206, 212–13, 235, 249, 260, 308
Research Publication Department, 276
Revivalism, 264, 271
rhinoceros, 34, 36–8
rickshaws, 17–18, 19, 30, 31
The Riddle of the Tsangpo Gorges (Kingdon-Ward), 178
river burials, 319–20, 339
River Dog (Shand), 12, 29
Riwo Tula, 230
roadside shrines, 101, 304
rock pythons, see pythons
rockfalls, 108
Roedean School, 260
Roing, 111–13, 116, 119, 122, 133, 136, 144, 169, 183, 276
rollers, 97
Rolling Stones, 17
Royal Bengal tigers, see tigers
Royal Geographical Society, 70, 141
Royal Palace (hotel), 51
Royal Society for Asian Affairs, 13
Russia, 7, 8, 285
sabre-toothed tigers, 70
sacred vaginas, 1–2, 24, 197
Sadiya, 93, 157
Sagalee, 282, 293
Salankam, 102
Santa Barbara University, 213
Saraswati Puja, 54–5
Sarawak, 78
Sati, 23
yoni of, 1–2, 24
Saturday Night Fever, 334
Scotland, 30, 147, 149
The Scream, 70
scrub typhus, 58
The Search for Shangri-La, (Allen), 219
Second World War, see World War II
Sela Pass, 294–314 passim, 333, 338
selfies, 33, 55, 87, 115, 253, 334
Serengeti, 34
Seven Sisters, 5, 11
Sex Pistols, 19
shamanism, 5, 12, 68, 78–9, 117, 124–33 passim, 157, 162–3, 194, 267–9, 339 (see also Donyi-Polo; igu; nyibu)
Shambhala, 178
Shangri-La, 175–91 passim, 203, 219, 241
Shillong, 113
Shiva, 22, 23, 100–1
A Short Ride in the Jungle (Bolingbroke-Kent), 11
Siang, 20
Siang River, 15, 184, 191, 197, 202
Siang Valley, 135, 172, 176, 181, 182, 187, 198
Siberia, 123
Sikkim, 140, 141
Silipo, 232
Simla Conference, 8
Singapore, 56
Singik Hotel, 250, 253–5
Sino-Indian War (1962), 9, 300
Six O’Clock News, 54
Skype, 213
snakes (see also individual types of snake), hibernating, 76
snow leopards, see leopards
sorcery, 24, 45–6, 175, 249
South Africa, 38, 69, 82, 240
South Park, 107
Southeast Asia, 31
State Bank of India, 160
Stilwell Road, 57, 59–61, 280
Strike Force, 83–4
Subansiri Area, 261
Subansiri River, 15
Talo River, 124, 133
Tantric ritual, 24–5, 176
Tashigong, 215, 228–30, 238, 248, 250, 338
disappearing way of life of, 239–41
Tawang, 14, 216, 295, 296, 299, 300, 302, 304–10, 311–13, 315–30 passim, 331–2, 335, 339
macaques, 312
Tawang Chu Valley, 315
Tawang Galdan Namgey Lhatse Monastery, 308
Tawang Monastery, 314
tea gardens, 53
terma, 177
terton, 177
Tewkesbury, 66
Texas, 278
Tezpur, 9, 337
Tezu, 106, 108–9
Thailand, 67
Tibet, 7–9 passim, 20, 30, 64, 78, 88, 173–256 passim
account of, 138–9, 263
customs, 301
landscape, 97, 111, 300
‘little’, 303
tourism, 71
weather, 326
Tibetan ponies, see ponies
Tibetan swords, 262
Tibetan turquoise, 264
Tibetology, 326
tigers, 6, 34, 38–9, 58, 79, 80, 84, 163–5, 243
jawbones, as weapon, 262
Tirap, 56, 60
Titanic, RMS, 114
Top Gun, 300
tourism, 38, 73, 76, 104, 166, 180, 185, 194, 254, 298, 307, 310
trakzen, 208, 246
Transport of Native Labourers Act (1863), 52
Treaty of Yandabo (1826), 6
trikonasana, 249
Tropic of Cancer, 11
tsakundu sangpo, 207
tsampa, 199, 219
Tsangpo, 176
Tsangpo River, 6, 8, 137–58 passim, 187 (see also Brahmaputra River)
tshatsha, 217, 243
tshe-bang, 219
tulku, 212–13, 217–19
Tuting, 181, 194, 195, 197, 199, 201, 202, 204, 210, 213, 214, 216, 232, 246, 247–8
twitching, 34, 85, 337
United Liberation Front of Assam (ULFA), 31, 53, 60
United Press (UP), 60
United States (US), 8, 10, 240, 277–8, 279–80, 284, 291
Upper Assam, 44, 47, 52–3, 115, 277, 281
Upper Subansiri District, 250
utkatasana, 249
Uttar Pradesh, 24, 253, 340
vajra, 326
Victoria Falls, 142
Vietnam, 37, 38
Vietnam War, 10, 238
Vietnamese medicine, 37–8
Vijaynagar, 216
Vishnu, 23
Wakro, 88, 91–9, 100
Walong, 99, 141
Western Front, 79
Wild Grass, 40
Wild Grass (resort), 34–5
Wiltshire, 274
Women’s Institute (WI), 211
World War I, 8, 143, 180, 259
World War II, 53, 59, 61–2, 188, 260, 274, 277–80
yak, 129, 302, 304, 310, 313, 316, 319, 322, 323, 326, 327, 331–42 passim
Yandabo, Treaty of, 6
Yangsang Chu River, 194, 197, 202, 220, 230, 232
Yangsang Chu Valley, 194, 202, 245
Yarlung Tsangpo, 20
Yingkiong, 181, 188, 190, 191, 195, 250
yoga, 29, 69, 214
Yoldong, 209, 210, 211
, 213, 226, 227, 243
Yunnan, 78, 92, 95, 111, 281
Zen Buddhism, 298
Ziro, 264, 270, 274
First published in Great Britain by Simon & Schuster UK Ltd, 2017
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Copyright © 2017 by Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent
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