Fonduing Fathers

by Julie Hyzy

Allow to rise in warm, humid place until doubled in size (about 1 hour), then punch down and divide into individual rolls. To form individual rolls, tear off an amount of dough about the size of a golf ball, flatten slightly in the palm of your hand, and work the dough slightly, stretching the skin and folding the edges under. Pinch the bottom closed and form into a ball, then set aside to rise. It’s simplest to place the raw rolls in rows on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover loosely and let rise until doubled (about 1 hour). Bake at 350°F for approximately 15 minutes or until done (rolls should be nicely browned). Place on wire rack to cool.

  * Note that, as a rule, when working with yeast, water temperature should be no more than 110–115 degrees Fahrenheit, and cooler is actually better. Yeast is a living organism; if the water is too hot, it will kill the yeast and the bread will not turn out. Cool, or even cold, water works just fine, with the only noticeable impact being a slight slowdown in the yeast’s rising speed—but since slower rising generally produces better flavor, this is not a bad thing!

  ** All purpose flour is slightly better for these, but the addition of herbs and spices makes the added gluten of bread flour appropriate as well.

  TOURNEDOS OF BEEF WITH MUSHROOM RAGOUT

  Makes 4 to 6 servings; 2 cups Mushroom Ragout

  TOURNEDOS

  2 pounds center-cut beef tenderloin roast

  Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

  2 tablespoons vegetable oil

  1 tablespoon butter

  MUSHROOM RAGOUT

  1 pound mixed mushrooms, such as shiitake, cremini, or white button

  2 to 4 tablespoons unsalted butter

  1 medium shallot or 1⁄2 small onion, chopped

  1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt

  Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

  3 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves stripped

  1⁄2 cup Madeira, vermouth, or white wine

  1⁄3 cup heavy cream

  Preheat oven to 400°F.

  Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Season the beef all over with salt and a generous amount of pepper. Add the oil to the skillet and heat until shimmering. Add the butter and swirl to melt. Add the beef and sear until nicely browned on all sides, about 8 minutes total.

  Transfer the skillet to the oven. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 125°F for medium rare (about 25 minutes). Transfer the roast to a cutting board, tent it very loosely with aluminum foil, and let it rest for 10 to 15 minutes.

  FOR THE MUSHROOM RAGOUT:

  Brush dirt from mushrooms. Remove the shiitake stems and discard. Trim the dry ends off the cremini and white mushroom stems. Quarter all the mushrooms and put in a bowl.

  Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and spread evenly in the pan. Increase the heat to high. Let the mushrooms cook undisturbed until they brown, then shake the pan to turn them over. If the pan seems very dry as the mushrooms cook, add the additional butter along the sides of the pan. Continue to cook until nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Add the shallot and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Season the mushrooms with the salt and pepper and add the thyme. Pull the pan off the heat and add the Madeira, vermouth, or white wine. Return pan to the heat and scrape up any of the brown bits that cling to the bottom of the pan (a wooden spoon is best for this). Add the heavy cream and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and serve.

  Slice beef into 1-inch-thick rounds and serve with the Mushroom Ragout.

  ROASTED BABY RED POTATOES WITH ROSEMARY

  Yield: 4 to 6 servings

  2 pounds baby red potatoes, quartered

  4–5 rosemary sprigs

  11⁄2 tablespoons olive oil

  Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

  Preheat oven to 500°F. In a jelly-roll or large baking pan, toss the potatoes with the rosemary and oil, season with salt and pepper, to taste, and roast, stirring once, for 30 minutes.

  PUMPKIN CHEESECAKE WITH CARAMEL SWIRL

  Makes 10 servings

  CRUST

  11⁄2 cups ground gingersnap cookies

  11⁄2 cups (about 6 ounces) toasted pecans

  1⁄4 cup firmly packed brown sugar

  1⁄4 cup (1⁄2 stick) unsalted butter, melted

  FILLING

  4 8-ounce packages cream cheese, room temperature

  1 2⁄3 cups sugar

  11⁄2 cups canned solid-pack pumpkin

  9 tablespoons whipping cream, separated

  1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

  1 teaspoon ground allspice

  4 large eggs

  1 tablespoon (approximate) purchased caramel sauce

  1 cup sour cream

  Preheat oven to 350°F. In a food processor, finely grind ground cookies, pecans, and brown sugar. Add melted butter and pulse until combined. Press crust mixture onto bottom and up sides of 9-inch-diameter springform pan with 23⁄4-inch-high sides.

  Using an electric mixer, beat cream cheese and sugar in large bowl until light and fluffy. Transfer 3⁄4 cup of the mixture to a small bowl; cover tightly and refrigerate to use for topping. Add pumpkin, 4 tablespoons whipping cream, ground cinnamon, and ground allspice to mixture and beat until well combined. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating just until combined. Pour filling into crust (filling will almost fill pan). Bake until cheesecake puffs, top browns, and center moves only slightly when pan is shaken, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Transfer cheesecake to rack and cool 10 minutes. Run small sharp knife around cake pan sides to loosen cheesecake. Cool. Cover tightly and refrigerate overnight.

  Bring remaining 3⁄4 cup cream cheese mixture to room temperature. Add remaining 5 tablespoons whipping cream to cream cheese mixture and stir to combine. Press down firmly on edges of cheesecake to create an even thickness. Pour cream cheese mixture over cheesecake, spreading evenly.

  Release pan sides from cheesecake. Slice and serve with caramel sauce.

  CHEESE FONDUE

  1⁄2 pound imported Swiss cheese, shredded

  1⁄2 pound Gruyère cheese, shredded

  2 tablespoons cornstarch

  1 garlic clove, peeled

  1 cup dry white wine

  1 tablespoon lemon juice

  1 tablespoon cherry brandy, such as kirsch

  1⁄2 teaspoon dry mustard

  Pinch nutmeg

  Assorted breads, vegetables, and fruits, for dipping

  In a small bowl, coat the cheeses with cornstarch and set aside. Rub the inside of the ceramic fondue pot with the garlic clove, then discard.

  Over medium heat, add the wine and lemon juice and bring to a simmer. Gradually stir the cheese into the simmering liquid. (Melting the cheese gradually will encourage a smooth fondue.) Once smooth, stir in cherry brandy, mustard, and nutmeg.

  Arrange an assortment of bite-sized dipping foods on a lazy Susan around fondue pot. Serve with chunks of French and pumpernickel breads. Other suggestions include Granny Smith apples and blanched vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, and asparagus. Spear with fondue forks or wooden skewers, dip, swirl, and eat.