Amsterdam Directions

by Martin Dunford

  Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum

  Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148, www.hashmuseum.com. Daily 11am–10pm. €5.70.

  The Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum is still going strong, despite intermittent battles with the police. It features displays on different kinds of dope and the huge number of ways to imbibe and otherwise use it. It has an indoor marijuana garden, samples of textiles and paper made with hemp, and pamphlets explaining the medicinal properties of cannabis. There’s also a shop selling pipes, books, videos and plenty of souvenirs.

  Oudemanhuispoort and around

  Doubling back to Kloveniersburgwal, turn right for the Oudemanhuispoort, a covered passageway leading off the street that is lined with secondhand bookstalls (Mon–Sat 10am–4pm), was formerly part of an almshouse complex for elderly men – hence the unusual name. Just beyond, at the south end of Kloveniersburgwal, lies one of the prettiest corners of the city, a small pocket of placid waterway and old canal houses that extends east to Groenburgwal and west to Grimburgwal.

  Rokin and Kalverstraat

  Rokin picks up where the Damrak leaves off, cutting south from Dam Square in a wide sweep that follows the former course of the River Amstel. This was the business centre of the nineteenth-century city, and although it has lost much of its prestige it is still flanked by an attractive medley of architectural styles incorporating everything from grandiose nineteenth-century mansions to more utilitarian modern stuff. Running parallel, pedestrianized Kalverstraat is a hectic shopping street that has been a commercial centre since medieval times, when it was used as a calf market; nowadays it’s home to many of the city’s chain stores and clothes shops.

  Allard Pierson Museum

  Oude Turfmarkt 127. Tues–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat & Sun 1–5pm. €4.30.

  A good old-fashioned archeological museum in a solid Neoclassical building dating from the 1860s, the Allard Pierson Museum holds a wide-ranging albeit fairly small collection of finds retrieved from the Middle East, plus Egypt, Greece and Italy. The particular highlights are the museum’s Greek pottery, with fine examples of both the black- and red-figured wares produced in the sixth and fifth centuries BC, and several ornate Roman sarcophagi.

  Heiligeweg and Spui

  Workaday Heiligeweg, or "Holy Way", was once part of a much longer route used by pilgrims heading into Amsterdam. Every other religious reference disappeared centuries ago, but there is one interesting edifice here, the fanciful gateway of the old Rasphuis (House of Correction) that now fronts a shopping mall at the foot of Voetboogstraat. The gateway is surmounted by a sculpture of a woman punishing two criminals chained at her sides above the single word "Castigatio" (punishment). Beneath is a carving by Hendrik de Keyser showing wolves and lions cringing before the whip.

  Cut up Voetboogstraat and you soon reach the Spui, whose west end opens out into a wide, tram-clanking square flanked by bookshops and cafés. In the middle is a cloying statue of a young boy, known as ’t Lieverdje ("Little Darling" or "Loveable Scamp"), a gift to the city from a cigarette company in 1960. It was here in the mid-1960s, with the statue seen as a symbol of the addicted consumer, that the playful political mavericks, the Provos, organized some of their most successful public ludiek (pranks). There’s a small secondhand book market here on Friday mornings.

  The Begijnhof

  Daily 10am–5pm; free.

  A little gateway on the north side of the Spui leads into the Begijnhof, where a huddle of immaculately maintained old houses looks onto a central green; if this door is locked, try the main entrance, just a couple of hundred metres north of the Spui on Gedempte Begijnensloot. The Begijnhof was founded in the fourteenth century as a home for the beguines – members of a Catholic sisterhood living as nuns, but without vows and with the right of return to the secular world. The original medieval complex comprised a series of humble brick cottages, but these were mostly replaced by the larger, grander houses of today shortly after the Reformation, though the secretive, enclosed design survived.

  The Engelse Kerk which takes up one side of the Begijnhof is of medieval construction, but it was taken from the beguines and given to Amsterdam’s English community during the Reformation and is of interest for its carefully worked pulpit panels, several of which were designed by a youthful Piet Mondriaan. The beguines, meanwhile, celebrated Mass inconspicuously in the clandestine Catholic chapel (Mon 1–6pm, Tues–Sun 9am–6pm; free), which they established in the house opposite their old church, and this is still used today, a homely little place with some sentimental religious paintings.

  Amsterdams Historisch Museum

  Two entrances: Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357 or Kalverstraat 92, www.ahm.nl. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat & Sun 11am–5pm. €6.

  A few metres from the Begijnhof, the open-access and free Schuttersgalerij – the Civic Guard Gallery – is lined by an interesting assortment of group portraits of the Amsterdam militia, painted when the city was at the height of its economic success. The gallery is actually part of the adjoining Amsterdams Historisch Museum, which occupies the smartly restored but rambling seventeenth-century buildings of the municipal orphanage. This museum surveys the city’s development with a scattering of artefacts and lots of paintings from the thirteenth century onwards – a somewhat garbled collection, but at least the labelling is in English and Dutch. High points include a number of paintings from the city’s Golden Age – Rembrandt’s wonderful Anatomy Lesson of Dr Jan Deijman stands out – and the section entitled "Social Care & Stern Discipline". Here, the harsh paternalism of the city’s merchant oligarchy is examined and there are paintings depicting the regents of several orphanages, self-contented bourgeois in the company of the grateful poor.

  Shops

  Absolute Danny

  O.Z. Achterburgwal 78; tel 020/421 0915.

  You can’t visit the Red-Light District without visiting at least one sex shop. This one bills itself as an "erotic lifestyle store", with everything that implies.

  Akkerman

  Kalverstraat 149; tel 020/623 1649.

  The city’s poshest pen shop.

  De Bierkoning

  Paleisstraat 125; tel 020/625 2336.

  The "Beer King" is aptly named: 950 different beers, with the appropriate glasses to drink them from – just in case you thought beer-drinking could be taken lightly.

  De Bijenkorf

  Dam 1; tel 020/552 1700.

  Dominating the northern corner of Dam square, this is the city’s top department store, a huge bustling place whose name means beehive. Curiously, De Bijenkorf posed all sorts of problems for the Germans when they first occupied the city in World War II. It was a Jewish concern, so the Nazis didn’t really want their troops shopping here, but it was just too popular to implement a total ban; the bizarre solution was to prohibit German soldiers from shopping on the ground floor, where the store’s Jewish employees were concentrated, as they always had been, in the luxury goods section. Nowadays the sections to head for include household goods, cosmetics and kidswear; there’s also a good choice of newspapers and magazines. Open daily.

  Condomerie Het Gulden Vlies

  Warmoesstraat 141; tel 020/627 4174.

  This shop sells condoms of every shape, size and flavour imaginable. All in the best possible taste – though some items stretch more than the imagination.

  Conscious Dreams

  Kokopelli Warmoestraat 12; tel 020/421 7000, www.consciousdreams.nl.

  One of the first of Amsterdam’s so-called "smart shops", with smart drugs, plants, aphrodisiacs, and everything you ever wanted to know about stimulants and maybe more. Very nicely set up, with Internet access and DJs on the weekend. Open till 10pm.

  Cyberdog

  Spuistraat 250; tel 020/330 6385.

  Amsterdam branch of the clubwear store with a futuristic twist; expect lots of fluorescent clothing, as well as a collection from a few well-known designers. Its in-store box office sells tickets for all club nights from House to Glam Rock.

  Delft Shop
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  Rokin 44; tel 020/620 1000, www.delftshop.com.

  Stocks an interesting display of Dutch pottery from small ashtrays and trinkets for €2 to more elaborate designs such as the €7500 replica of a tulip vase held in the Rijksmuseum.

  Droog Design

  Rusland 3; tel 020/626 9809, www.droogdesign.nl.

  Founded in 1993, Droog Design has made a serious contribution to international design – indeed some of their products, such as their milk bottle chandelier, have ended up in museum collections. This is their gallery-cum-shop.

  Gallery de Munt

  In the Munttoren, Muntplein 12; tel 020/623 2271.

  A good outlet for gifts of antique delftware, pottery, hand-painted tiles and the like.

  Jacob Hooij

  Kloveniersburgwal 10; tel 020/624 3041.

  Traditional homeopathic chemist with any amount of herbs and natural cosmetics, as well as a huge stock of drop (Dutch liquorice); in business at this address since 1778.

  Jan Jansen

  Rokin 42; tel 020/625 1350.

  Famous Dutch designer selling handmade shoes with sparky designs.

  P.G.C. Hajenius

  Rokin 92; tel 020/623 7494. Open Sun.

  Old, established tobacconist selling its own and other brands of cigars, tobacco, smoking accessories, and every make of cigarette you can think of.

  Posthumus

  Sint Luciensteeg 23; tel 020/625 5812.

  Posh stationery, cards and, best of all, a choice of hundreds of rubber stamps. By appointment to Her Majesty.

  De Slegte

  Kalverstraat 48; tel 020/622 5933.

  The Amsterdam branch of a nationwide chain specializing in new and used books at a discount.

  Vrolijk

  Paleisstraat 135; tel 020/623 5142, www.vrolijk.nu.

  The self-proclaimed largest gay and lesbian bookshop in Europe, with books, magazines, videos and more.

  Waterstone’s

  Kalverstraat 152; tel 020/638 3821.

  Amsterdam branch of the UK high-street chain, with four floors of books and magazines. A predictable selection, but prices are sometimes cheaper here than elsewhere.

  Coffeeshops

  Abraxas

  Jonge Roelensteeg 12.

  Quirky, mezzanine coffeeshop with challenging spiral staircases, especially afterwards. The hot chocolate with hash is not for the susceptible.

  Dampkring

  Handboogstraat 29.

  Colourful coffeeshop and laid-back atmosphere, known for its good-quality hash.

  Extase

  Oude Hoogstraat 2.

  Part of a chain run by the initiator of the Hash Museum. Considerably less chi-chi than the better-known coffeeshops.

  Grasshopper

  Oudebrugsteeg 16; Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 57.

  Multi-levelled coffeeshop, with bar, sports screen and restaurant. One of the city’s more welcoming places, though its proximity to Centraal Station means that at times it can be overwhelmed by tourists.

  Homegrown Fantasy

  Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 87a.

  Attached to the Dutch Passion seed company, this sells the widest selection of marijuana in Amsterdam, most of it local.

  Rusland

  Rusland 16.

  One of the first Amsterdam coffeeshops, a cramped but vibrant place that’s a favourite with both dope fans and tea addicts (it has 43 different kinds). A cut above the rest.

  Cafés and tearooms

  Arnots

  Singel 441. Closed Sat & Sun.

  A basement café serving some of the best coffee in town along with wholemeal sandwiches and freshly squeezed apples. A great summertime spot with people spilling out onto the pavement.

  ’t Nieuwe Kafe

  Eggerstraat 8.

  Beside the Nieuwe Kerk, this smart bistro-style café is popular with shoppers, serving good, reasonably priced lunches and light meals. Great pancakes too.

  Puccini

  Staalstraat 21.

  Lovely cake and chocolate shop-cum-café.

  Villa Zeezicht

  Torensteeg 3.

  Excellent rolls and sandwiches, plus some of the best apple cake in the city.

  Vlaamse Friethuis

  Voetboogstraat 33.

  The best frites in town – take-out only.

  Restaurants

  Bern

  Nieuwmarkt 9.

  Casual and inexpensive brown café patronized by a predominantly arty clientele. Run by a native of Switzerland, its speciality is, not surprisingly, excellent and alcoholic cheese fondue.

  Centra

  Lange Niezel 29; tel 020/622 3050. Daily 1–11pm.

  Cantina with a wonderful selection of Spanish food, masterfully cooked and genially served.

  De Compagnon

  Guldehandsteeg 17, via Warmoesstraat; tel 020/620 4225. Closed Sun.

  This restaurant tends to be fully booked well in advance, but you might get in for lunch. With its split-level wooden floors it has an intimate, old Amsterdam atmosphere, traditional food and a wine menu with a choice of 300 bottles.

  Green Planet

  Spuistraat 122; tel 020/625 8280. Daily 5.30pm–midnight.

  Cute mezzanine café with lots of tofu dishes and a varied international menu. Cash only.

  Hemelse Modder

  Oude Waal 9; tel 020/624 3203. Closed Mon.

  Tasty meat, fish and vegetarian food in French-Italian style at reasonable prices in an informal atmosphere. Highly popular (especially with gay people).

  Hoi Tin

  Zeedijk 122; tel 020/625 6451. Daily noon–midnight.

  One of the best options in Amsterdam’s rather dodgy Chinatown, this is a constantly busy place with an enormous menu (in English too) including some vegetarian dishes.

  Kinderkoekcafé

  0Z Achterburgwal 193; tel 020/625 3257.

  Simple food, well done, in a restaurant entirely staffed by children. Only open for weekend diners; the rest of the time they run cookery courses for kids.

  Lana Thai

  Warmoesstraat 10; tel 020/624 2179. Closed Tues.

  Among the best Thai restaurants in town, with seating overlooking the water of Damrak. Quality food, chic surroundings but high prices.

  Luden

  Spuistraat 304; tel 020/622 8979.

  Excellent French bistro-cum-restaurant that does fine-value prix fixe menus, for which you can expect to pay €26.50 for three courses, as well as a more moderately priced à la carte menu and brasserie.

  Sie Joe

  Gravenstraat 24; tel 020/624 1830. Mon–Sat 11am–7pm, Thurs till 8pm.

  Small Indonesian café-restaurant whose great value-for-money menu is far from extensive but comprises well-prepared, simple dishes such as gado gado, sateh and rendang.

  De Silveren Spiegel

  Kattengat 4; tel 020/624 6589. Closed Sun.

  There’s been a restaurant in this location since 1614, and "The Silver Mirror" is one of the best in the city, with a delicately balanced menu of Dutch cuisine. The proprietor lives on the coast and brings in the fish himself. Spectacular food, with a cellar of 350 wines to complement it.

  Supper Club

  Jonge Roelensteeg 21; tel 020/344 6400, www.supperclub.nl.

  A five-course set menu served to customers, who lounge on mattresses, smoking joints and listening to a DJ on a raised stage. The fusion food is of a very high standard, though some may find the whole concept pretentious or downright disconcerting. Customers have free entry to the members-only club downstairs. Booking essential. Expensive.

  Vijff Vlieghen

  Spuistraat 294; tel 020/530 4060.

  This immaculate restaurant – one of the city’s best – serves exquisitely prepared Dutch (and beyond) food in antique, wood-panelled premises. Hard to beat, but it’s expensive.

  Bars

  Absinthe Bar

  Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 171. Daily 10pm–4am.

  Small, late-night basement lounge bar, slightly hidden
from the street that specializes in – you guessed it – absinthe. Free entry, DJ at weekends.

  Belgique

  Gravenstraat 2.

  Tiny and very appealing bar behind the Nieuwe Kerk that serves up Belgian brews.

  Blincker

  St Barberentraat 7.

  Hi-tech theatre bar just out of the Red-Light District.

  De Buurvrouw

  St Pieterspoortsteeg 29. Daily from 9pm.

  Dark, noisy bar with a wildly eclectic crowd; a great alternative place to head for in the centre. Live music on Sun.

  Café de Zeemeeuw

  Zeedijk 102.

  Popular, convivial Dutch bar with large sports-screen, just off Nieuwmarkt.

  Dantzig

  Zwanenburgwal 15.

  Easy-going grand café, right on and across the water from Waterlooplein. Comfortable chairs, friendly service and a low-key, chic atmosphere. Food served at lunchtime and in the evenings.

  De Drie Fleschjes

  Gravenstraat 18. Closes 8.30pm.

  Tasting house for spirits and liqueurs, which once would have been made on the premises. Clients tend to be well heeled or well soused (often both).

  De Engelbewaarder

  Kloveniersburgwal 59.

  Once the meeting place of Amsterdam’s bookish types, this is still known as a literary café. It’s relaxed and informal, with live jazz on Sunday afternoons.

  Gollem

  Raamsteeg 4.

  Small and intimate bar with a superb selection of Belgian beers – and with the correct glasses to drink them from. The genial barman will help you choose.

  Het Doktertje

  Roozenboomsteeg 4.

  Tiny, dark, brown café with stained glass to keep you hidden from the world outside. Liqueurs fill the wall behind the tiny bar. A place to be enchanted.

  Hoppe

  Spui 18.

  One of Amsterdam’s longest-established and best-known bars, and one of its most likeable, frequented by the city’s businessfolk on their wayward way home. Summer is especially good, when the throngs spill out onto the street.

  De Jaren

  Nieuwe Doelenstraat 20.