Kingdoms of Experience

by Andrew Greig

  Kurt Diemberger Film maker, b. Austria 1932. He has for many years lived by climbing, filming and lecturing. He graduated from hunting for crystals in the mountains to major rock routes, including the N.E. face of the Piz Badile, S. face of the Dent du Géant, the Croz dell Altissimo. His Alpine ascents include early ascents of the Brenva Face of Mont Blanc, the N. face of the Matterhorn, N. face of the Eiger, the Walker Spur, the Peuterey Ridge, first ascent of the Konigswand direttissima. In the course of some 27 expeditions he made the first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957 with Herman Buhl, first ascent of Dhaulagiri; climbed Everest, Makalu and Gasherbrum II, finally a repeat ascent of Broad Peak 27 years after his first one. His classic autobiography, Summits and Secrets, is published by George Allen & Unwin.

  Mal Duff Expedition leader, b. Nairobi 1953, brought up in Kenya, Surrey, Congo, Solomon Islands, Edinburgh. Married. Full-time guide and mountaineer. Over 100 first ascents on UK rock and ice, including People’s Friend, Art of Zen, Point Blank, all Grade 6. Expeditions: Peruvian Andes ’79, ’80, ’82; Nuptse West Ridge ’81, ’82; Thamaserku ’82, Mustagh Tower ’84. Member S.M.L., A.C.G.

  ‘Leaving behind one expedition now 9 months old, and flying East into a new adventure. Reflections flit through my mind as we drone on through the towering dark. Everest from China, 11 climbers and 3 months’ effort and endeavour all blur into a continuous series of images – BC, ABC, the winds above C2, looking down at the North Col, the Buttresses, 7,850 metres… But most of all I remember the people, my friends and companions who travelled half the world, who struggled boldly, grandly, but most of all who laughed. Expeditions are like that, you remember the good, the bad recedes and thus you’re prepared to go back to try again. Of course when that possibility arises you plan and think and reason in an effort to make success more likely. The things that went wrong in 1985 would be changed. That’s the important thing, that you learn from an expedition, that you develop as a person, that perhaps you can for a time within a hostile environment be at peace with yourself and your companions …’

  Liz Duff Base and Advance Base assistant, support climber, b. 1947 in Edinburgh. Works in insurance, for Scottish Life Assurance. Has played hockey and table tennis at representative level. Rock and ice climbing, mainly in Scotland with two Alpine seasons, ‘mostly seconding plus a very limited amount of leading’. Endless amount of experience as a chalet girl keeping the dossers in line, in Scotland, England, France and Nepal.

  Allen Fyffe Lead climber, b. Dundee 1946. Married with two children. Educated Harris Academy, Aberdeen University (B.Sc. in Geography). Climbed extensively in Britain and abroad. In the Alps did the first British ascent of the N. face of the Droites, an early British ascent of the Eiger N. face, and the first winter ascent of the Central Spur of Les Courtes. In 1973, a member of the British Dhaulagiri IV Expedition; 1975, the Everest South-West Face Expedition; 1978, with Bob Barton made the first ascent of the South Flank of Kalanka; 1982, the South-West pillar of Bhagirathi II with Bob Barton. Also climbed in Canada, USA and South America. At present employed as an instructor at Glenmore Lodge Outdoor Training Centre. Qualified guide and member of the A.B.M.G. With Andy Nisbet, co-author of the climbing guide to the Cairngorms.

  ‘Coming back from Everest was for me very like ending a Scottish winter – I was fairly unfit but really keen to rock climb. Something that would give immediate satisfaction and didn’t require the carrying of large rucksacks.

  ‘The one positive and heartening aspect of the Expedition for me, besides everyone returning in good shape, was my own performance at altitude. In 1975, on the South-West Face of Everest, I hadn’t gone particularly well, but on the North-East Ridge I felt I could have gone some way above the magic 8,000 metres without oxygen. This, however, was balanced to some extent by not having done so because of lack of opportunity at the end.

  ‘I do notice that my short-term memory is definitely worse than before.

  ‘Really our trip fell between two stools – the fast, light and bold or the traditional heavyweight with lots of carriers and oxygen. However, on Everest, and particularly a Ridge as long as ours, the weather is going to be so important that any success will probably need a bit of luck.’

  Andrew Greig Writer and support climber, b. Bannockburn 1951. Educated Dollar Academy, Waid Academy, Edinburgh University (M.A. Philosophy). Worked as advertising copywriter, farm labourer, salmon fisherman, now a freelance writer. Introduced to climbing by Mal Duff in 1984 for the Mustagh Tower expedition, chronicled in Summit Fever, Hutchinson 1985. Three Scottish winters, one rock route, no Alpine experience. Published four collections of poetry, including Men On Ice, Canongate, 1977, and A Flame in your Heart (with Kathleen Jamie), Bloodaxe Books, 1986.

  Nick Kekus Lead climber, b. Leeds 1957, now living in the Lake District. HND in civil engineering. Started climbing at 15 on the gritstone outcrops of West Yorkshire. Alpine routes include E. face of the Jorasses, Walker Spur, Freney Pillar, Dru Couloir. In recent years has concentrated on expeditions to the greater ranges: Mt. Kenya 1979; an expedition to the Cordillera Blanca, Peru, in 1980, made three first ascents; climbed Kalanka South Face ’81; ’82 and ’83 expeditions to Snivelling and Annapurna III were tragically unsuccessful on unclimbed routes; ’84 climbed S. face of Ganesh II Alpine style with Rick Allen. Member of Alpine Club, A.C.G., North London Mountaineering Club.

  Danny Lewis Film porter and master baker, b. 1965 in Surrey, studying B.A. Sculpture at St Martin’s School of Fine Art in London. Began rock-climbing on sandstone at 14 at Tunbridge Wells; also climbed in North Wales, Derbyshire, Lake District, South Coast, France, Italy, Sardinia. Several new routes on sandstone, including Desperate Dan 6, Republic 6.

  ‘Definitely an anti-climax being back. I lost two stone, hated Chinese food, but gained valuable experience for when I go back to the same route if no one climbs it before then! The higher I got, the nearer I got to my own heaven.

  ‘What next? Eiger North Face or Another Big Expedition!’

  Andy Nisbet. Lead climber, b. Aberdeen 1953. Educated Aberdeen Grammar School, Aberdeen University, B.Sc. and Ph.D. in Biochemistry. Research Fellow at Aberdeen University before concentrating fully on climbing. Began hill-walking the Scottish Munros, then moved to rock and winter climbing. Possibly the current leading Scottish winter climber, with some 130 first ascents, including Grade VI. Alpine seasons include N. face Eiger, N. face Matterhorn, first winter ascent of the N. face of the Col du Peigne. Member of Nuptse West Ridge expedition 1981. Member of Etchuchan Club, S.M.C.

  Sarah Squibb Assistant at Base and Advance Base. b. London 1963, brought up in Keswick, Lake District. B. Ed. from Bretton Hall College, 1984. Started climbing in 1981. The Everest Expedition was her first, but hopefully not her last. Her personal expedition success was climbing the peak ‘Point 6833’ on the east side of the East Rongbuk glacier.

  Jon Tinker Lead climber, b. Handsworth 1959, educated Highgate School and Exeter University. Politics degree. Works in climbing shop and guides. Climbing eight years. Alpine routes include Walker Spur, Croz Spur, Peuterey Integral, and the N. faces of Ailefroide, Meije (direct), Droites, Dru, Charmoz, Verte (last two in winter). Kenya – Diamond Couloir and new route on West face of Mt Kenya. Peru – sundry 6,000 metre peaks. Attempt on Annapurna III. Ascent of Mustagh Tower 1984. Member Alpine Club.

  ‘Coping with disappointment is an adult skill that climbers can normally avoid; living in a close, private world, there is little need for justification. Coming back from Everest we were all obliged to dissect our experience in public.

  ‘There are two obvious ways to go if we want to go back. One is to try it with a very small team of four or so climbers à la Boardman/Tasker. However, at the moment there are very few people in the world with a credible chance of climbing the mountain in this fashion, and only – perhaps – one Brit. None of our team would be up to it. The other option is to go heavier. The necessity would be to employ Sherpas to do load-carrying up to 8,000 metres. It would be a good id
ea to have a party on the North Col route as well. The debate as to whether we would need oxygen would be interesting, but perhaps having someone else to carry it to 8,000 metres might tip the balance! I’d not wish to use it again, the same view I had on this trip.

  ‘It seems a bit silly to indulge in any post-trip jockeying for position, “If only I hadn’t been ill”, “If only I’d been at ABC when the trip was called off”, etc. Worse, it ends up with Malcolm getting unjustified flak – he’s a great bloke who did a hard job very sympathetically. But OK – what if the weather hadn’t turned bad? We’d have needed to carry more gear up to the Pinnacles. No one seemed able and willing to use O2 and carry personal gear in a summit push. Those who were willing to use O2 – like Sandy and Mal – were knackered; those who weren’t so knackered, like Nick and Rick, weren’t willing to use O2. The summit was still the best part of two to three weeks away if we were going to fix the Pinnacles. It seemed improbable that anyone would have the “punch” to go to the top from there. Or to Alpine-style from 7,850? Certainly Rick, who was going strongest at that time, would be the first to say he wasn’t as strong and experienced as Joe and Pete … So all in all it was probably the best thing for us to get off when we did.

  ‘This year I’m off to Pakistan with Mark Miller, Simon Yates and Dick Renshaw. Just one rucksack each, climbing where we want, something of a change from Everest.’

  Julie Tullis Sound recordist, b. 1939. With her husband Terry she ran the Bowles Outdoor Pursuits Centre, then the famous Fester-haunt near Tunbridge Wells. Now a full-time climbing instructor and film-maker. Black belt in Karate and Aikido. Extensive rock climbing in Britain and abroad. Expeditions include the Andes in 1978 with Norman Croucher’s Peruvian Andes Expedition, Nanga Parbat ’82, K2 ’83 and ’84, Broad Peak ’84, where she became the first British woman to climb a 8,000 metres peak. Teamed up with Kurt Diemberger to make films of the Nanga Parbat expedition onwards. Her biography, Clouds from Both Sides, is published by Graf ton Press, 1986.

  Chris Watts Lead climber, b. Norfolk 1957. Married. B.Sc. in Physiology from University of London. Currently manager and buyer for climbing department of Alpine Sports. Began climbing out of curiosity after reading Everest the Hard Way and Blackshaw’s Mountaineering, Has since climbed extensively in UK and the Alps, including Central Pillar of Freney, Frendo Spur and 1st British ascent of the Andreani/Nessi route on the North Face of Lyskamm. 1982 successful ascent of South East pillar of Taulliraju in the Cordillera Blanca with Mick Fowler. 1984 attempt on the South Face of Bojohagur Duan Asir failed after ‘a spectacular series of setbacks’.

  ‘All equipment for the Expedition was obtained through Alpine Sports except for those items which were specially designed: Gore-Tex one-piece suits, libond suits, and lightweight rucksacks, all made by Berghaus. All other equipment was standard production though occasionally with special modifications e.g. down suits and sleeping bags.

  ‘Companies who must be given special thanks are: Berghaus – they gave us a lot of gear at considerably reduced prices, plus they spent a lot of time making equipment when they were very busy. Special thanks to Cornelia and her design team at Berghaus. Mountain Equipment – made down suits and sleeping bags at very short notice, and at a discount. Helly Hansen – supplied free pile clothing. Alpine Sports – allowed use of facilities and sold all equipment at cost price.

  ‘Retrospective. At the time when Mal called off the Expedition I felt it was a fair decision; though with hindsight it appeared hasty. It was obvious we had been defeated by the conditions. We were reduced to probably only 4 or 5 people still capable of making a contribution – me, Nick Kekus, Rick Allen on the hill, plus Allen Fyffe and Sandy Allan at Base Camp who were at least 7 days out of phase and therefore effectively out of it. The snowfall during the final night certainly stopped us in the end, but it was only the final straw as we were not by then really capable of anything other than an all or nothing push through the Pinnacles.

  ‘Overall the “failure” was undoubtedly due to the weather, but the lack of communication and the lack of positive leadership probably contributed at least as much. This is not a criticism of Mal, since we all hoped decision would evolve naturally. As it was, his abscess which pulled him down to B.C. at a vital time can probably be pointed to as the single most damaging blow as it showed up the lack of communication and the need for a leader. During that period a lot of effort was being expended and loads were carried, but no one knew exactly why and where this put them in the grand scale of things.

  ‘I feel very confident that the attempt was worthwhile and that the team members were capable of achieving what most outsiders considered the impossible. I would definitely go back, but would expect a more exact plan and role on the mountain. If you go as a team, you must climb as a cog in that team. I wish the next expedition to the Ridge every success; I certainly hope no one is injured, but in the back of my mind I hope they fail as I want just one more try!’

  Urs Wiget. Expedition doctor and lead climber, b. Switzerland 1944, now a family practitioner and traumatologist in Vissoie, in the Wallis Alps. Married with 4 children. Began climbing at 16; many summer and winter ascents in the Alps. 1968 member of a scientific survival test winter trip over the ridges of Eiger-Monch-Jungfrau-Ebnefluh (report published by Huber, Bern, 1973). 1979 expedition to the Cordilliera Blanca as climber and doctor. 1981 working, living and climbing for 6 months in Ladakh and Zanskar. 1984 Swiss expedition on K2 and Broad Peak. Active in mountain rescue, also medical teacher of mountain guides and rescue specialists.

  These biographical notes and reflections were made in 1985. Since then Julie Tullis died on Κ2 and Mal Duff on Everest. The rest of us are still pushing out our personal routes and intersect from time to time.

  MEDICAL REPORT ON THE 1985 PILKINGTON EVEREST EXPEDITION

  This report covers medical aspects of the Expedition and includes the discussions we had concerning high altitude health. It is not a scientific medical paper.

  Given the size of the group, we had very few medical problems. We didn’t reach the summit of Mt Everest, but 8 of the 11 climbers reached approximately 8,000 metres without bottled oxygen. All of these climbers came down and returned home in good health. For me this was a much bigger success than the attainment of the summit at the cost of one or more human lives.

  This paper is also an expression of my thanks for the invitation and the very good ambiance of the team during the entire Expedition.

  The geographic/medical situation:

  a) The very high Base Camp (5,010 m) can be reached in 5 days from Beijing. From the medical point of view it was fortunate that a delay in the arrival of equipment imposed a 7 day stay in Lhasa (3,600 m) and a more gradual acclimatization.

  b) The mountain is very far away from Base Camp (20 km) and the real operational base is at 6,400 m, at the site of Camp III of the British pre-war expeditions (ABC). This is too high to permit recovery, so the climbers were obliged to descend frequently to Base Camp for rest periods. For the doctor the problem was he could not be in the two places at the same time …

  c) Evacuation from Base Camp to a hospital in Xigatse or Lhasa would have been possible in 1 or 2 days.

  Medical problems.

  The only problem which could have become very serious was a cerebral oedema starting the first night at ABC (6,400 m) for one member (Sandy Allan), a very fit climber with previous experience of two expeditions reaching 7,280 without problems. Fortunately I was sharing a tent with him. 4 gr. of Aspirin during the night only partly stopped the headache, and we descended early in the morning to 6,000 m where the symptoms were better. The climber received 3 × 250 mg of Diamox which gave him quite serious paraesthesia in the fingers and toes. We rested all day, drinking 5–6 litres. That night was better, and in the following afternoon we started again up towards ABC. After only 100 m the patient became more and more sick, vomited, again had a headache and was very tired. We then descended to Base in the same day, where the patient
recovered fast and completely. Later on this climber reached 7,650 m without problems and was working normally on the hill.

  I think we can find part of the explanation for this cerebral oedema in the very hard work this climber did the day before he reached ABC: in the yak run we had serious problems at about 5,600 m when the yaks shed loads in panic in the middle of the glacier and some of us carried parts of the loads for some distance, only 5 days after our arrival at Base.

  Another problem was an acute snow-blindness (Andy Nisbet). We climbed all day between 7,090 and 7,650 m in stormy weather, moving in some haste. Neither of us realized the danger; I was wearing tinted glasses by habit, but not Andy. During the night, pain became acute, the patient couldn’t open his eyes. The immediate treatment consisted of a slow-dose anaesthetic eye-salve and an atrophine-antibiotic eye salve. The following day we descended from ABC to BC with some difficulty: to open at least one eye, the patient needed anaesthetic eye drops. We did not risk staying at ABC with this problem; in the event of complications we would have been too remote from specialized help. After 6 days of treatment at BC, the patient’s eyes were healed and the climber was again fit to work on the mountain.

  The third problem was a mild chronic lung oedema of one of the members, a very fit mountain guide with previous high altitude expierence (Bob Barton). The symptoms started at about 6,000 m on the second yak run. We tried different treatments, the patient descended three times from ABC to BC where he felt no major symptoms, but every time at more than 6,000 m he had dyspnoea and was not fit at all. In the middle of the Expedition he contracted probably a central retina haemorrhage in one eye – my broken opthalmoscope wouldn’t permit a certain diagnosis. The eye symptoms disappeared after 4 weeks, without special treatment. Now, at home in Switzerland, I think it would have been better to send this climber down for 1–2 weeks to recover completely, though this would have meant going to Chengdu or Shanghai because the whole Tibetan plateau is too high for such recovery.