Mediterranean Summer
Page 30
While the sauce is cooking remove the clams from the shells. When the sauce is ready, turn off the heat and add the clams with any residual liquid to the pan.
Cook the spaghettini in a liberal amount of salted water to al dente. While the pasta is cooking, bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water before draining the spaghettini.
A little at a time, add the pasta water to the sauce until it is a touch looser than seems correct. The pasta will absorb the sauce when it is added. Add the basil, then the spaghettini, and gently toss over the heat for a minute or so. If the pasta absorbs too much sauce and the pan looks dry, add a touch of pasta water as you work.
Transfer to a warm serving platter or individual pasta bowls. Finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and the remaining chopped parsley. Serve subito (immediately) because la pasta fredda non’ e buona! Cold pasta is not good!
Entertaining Note: The sauce can be made up to 2 hours before serving, when the clams are added back in.
Wine Recommendation: From Campania, a white Greco di Tufo from Feudi di San Gregorio or a red Aglianico Murellaia from De Lucia
Dried Pasta with Tuna Sauce
Pasta Asciutta con Sugo di Tonno
MAKES 6 FIRST-COURSE OR LUNCH SERVINGS, OR 4 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS
Just a few ingredients from the pantry and you have a great lunch or dinner main course. The method works for other seafood like shrimp and mussels.
1½ cups Serenity Marinara (Recipes)
Fine sea salt
3½ cups (12 ounces) dried short tube pasta like rigatoni, ziti, or penne rigate
One 6-to 8-ounce can or jar Italian, Spanish, or Portuguese tuna packed in oil, drained
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon freshly chopped Italian parsley
Bring the sauce to a simmer in a pan large enough for both the sauce and the cooked pasta. Bring an abundant amount of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta in the boiling water according to the package instructions. Drain, keeping a little of the pasta water. Add the tuna to the sauce, but do not overmix as it will break down when the pasta is added. Thin the sauce if necessary with a little of the reserved pasta water and adjust the salt to taste. Gently toss the pasta with the sauce and cook for a minute or so in the sauce. If the pan gets too dry and there is no residual sauce in the bottom, add a little more of the reserved pasta water so that there is an even coating of sauce around the pasta and a little in the bottom of the pan. Transfer to a serving platter or individual pasta bowls. Drizzle the top with a little extra virgin olive oil and finish with the parsley. Serve subito (immediately)!
Wine Recommendation: A Sardinian Vermentino from Argiolas or Contini
Baked Snapper with Tomatoes and Olives
Pesce al Forno con Pomodori e Olive Neri
MAKES 8 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS
This versatile recipe for baking fish calls for snapper, but you can use any other tender, flaky fish like bass, sole, or bream. Once you get comfortable with the baking method, try using different herbs, olives, and spices like ground coriander or even a touch of cumin. Pitted Niçoise olives are available at specialty food stores and are worth the hunt. Unpitted will work as well—just remember to tell your guests! Serve with roasted summer squash.
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus a little oil for drizzling
Eight 6-ounce pieces snapper fillet
Fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon lightly toasted and ground fennel seeds
1 cup Niçoise olives, pitted
¼ cup dry white wine
1¾ pounds ripe but firm tomatoes, seeded and cut into 3/8-inch dice
½ cup lightly packed torn fresh basil leaves
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Put 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in each of 2 baking dishes, each large enough to hold 4 pieces of fish with space in between. Put the dishes in the oven to heat the oil but don’t let it get to the smoking point.
With a sharp utility or boning knife, make a few shallow slices through the skin of each snapper fillet to keep them from curling in the hot oil. Season each piece on both sides with salt, pepper, and fennel. Place the fish in the hot oil, skin side down, to coat with the oil, then immediately turn with a fish spatula so that the skin side is up. The oil is the correct temperature if you hear a light sizzle when the fish is added. Divide the olives between the dishes, scattering them around the fish, then splash equal amounts of wine into each dish.
Bake for 6 to 8 minutes, until the fish is slightly firm and starts to flake when the tip of a knife is inserted into the flesh. The cooking time will vary depending on the thickness of the fillets. Season the tomatoes with salt and pepper, then divide them between the baking dishes, making sure they fall between the pieces of fish and into the hot pan juices. The tomatoes just need to get slightly wilted in the hot pans.
With a fish spatula, transfer the fish to warmed plates or a serving platter. Toss the basil in the olives and tomatoes, and when the leaves are coated with the pan juices, spoon the mixture over the fish. I always like to add a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil to finish for tradition’s sake. Serve immediately.
Equipment Note: I don’t recommend using aluminum baking pans since the wine and tomatoes will react unfavorably and become bitter. Glazed ceramic, stainless steel, enameled cast iron, and Spanish cazuelas offer the best heat. Ovenproof glass will work too.
Entertaining Note: You can bake the fish till about three-quarters done and hold it for up to an hour before serving. Drape plastic wrap over the fish to keep it moist. To serve, remove the plastic, spoon some of the pan juices over the fish, then finish in the oven. By the time you start to hear the ingredients in the baking dish sizzle, the fish will be ready. Continue as directed. To hold the tomatoes, coat them with a little olive oil and do not season until ready to add to the fish. Adding salt too soon will pull water from the tomatoes and make the finished dish too watery.
Wine Recommendation: A Ligurian white Vermentino from Lupi or Tenuta Giuncheo
Halibut in Crazy Water
Pesce in Acqua Pazza
MAKES 6 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS
From the region of Campania and a classic of Neapolitan cooking, this recipe is all about a great piece of fish cooked in a wonderfully simple way. Since the list is short, using great ingredients is paramount. At the beginning of the cooking, everything in the pan is fairly dry, but by the time the fish is cooked, there will be a simmering bath of acqua pazza—crazy water. This is a perfect way to cook halibut and other flaky fish like snapper, grouper, or bass. Use vine-ripened tomatoes that are not too soft. And by rinsing off the capers, you will get seasoning from the capers, not the flavor of the brine. Serve with roasted or steamed potatoes.
Six 6-ounce pieces skinless halibut fillet
Fine sea salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
2 large garlic cloves, peeled
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus a little oil for drizzling
About 1¾ pounds ripe, firm tomatoes, seeded and cut into 3/8-inch dice (3 cups)
2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley
1½ tablespoons drained capers, rinsed and finely minced
Season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper. Lightly crush the garlic cloves and put in a sauté pan with a lid that is large enough to hold all the fish and some of the tomatoes in between in a single layer. Add the olive oil and heat over medium heat. When the garlic starts to sizzle, gently shake and tilt the pan so the cloves are immersed and sizzling at one side of the pan in a pool of the oil. As the cloves start to turn golden, lay the pan flat on the burner so the oil covers the entire surface. Place the fish in the pan, skin side down. Tilt the pan so you can spoon some of the garlic oil over the exposed side of the fish. Season the tomatoes with salt and pepper. Add the tomatoes and parsley, evenly distributing them over the entire surface of the
fish and in between the fillets. Cover and lower the heat so the pan juices come to a slow, even boil. Add the capers 2 to 3 minutes later so their flavor will not overpower the rest of the dish. Continue to simmer until the fish is opaque and slightly firm, 3 to 4 minutes.
Transfer the fish with a thin spatula to warm plates or a serving platter. Using a slotted spoon, place the tomatoes over the fish, then with a regular spoon, place some of the residual “crazy water” in the pan over the fish and enough on the dish or platter to serve it in a shallow pool. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil. Serve subito (immediately)!
Entertaining Note: You can make this dish an hour ahead of serving; just don’t cook the fish all the way. The best way to do this is to stop when the top of the fish is still raw. Keep the lid off until it cools so the condensation that would occur does not make the pan sauce too watery. Reheat, covered, over medium-low heat.
Wine Recommendation: From Campania, a white Pallagrello Bianco from Vestini Campagnano or a red Neranico Irpinia Rosso from Salvatore Molettieri
Grilled Swordfish with Naked Caponata
Pesce Spada alla Griglia con Caponata Nuda
MAKES 4 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS
Caponata is typically an eggplant dish, but in this stripped-down variation, everything is included except the eggplant. And instead of using a tomato-based sauce, pomodorini—small tomatoes—are roasted before being combined with the rest of the ingredients, making for a lighter and very colorful blending of flavors and textures. It is perfect on swordfish but works just as well with other firm-fleshed fish, chicken, and lamb. Of course, you can add grilled, roasted, or fried eggplant to the mixture to make a great antipasto or side dish.
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
2 cups (about 12 ounces) Sweet 100 cherry tomatoes
¾ cup pitted and halved green olives
1/3 cup blanched almonds, toasted
1/3 cup golden raisins
1/3 cup thinly sliced celery heart
2 teaspoons minced drained capers
¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
½ teaspoon dried oregano
Four 8-ounce pieces 1-inch-thick center-cut swordfish
Fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1½ teaspoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Preheat a grill or grill pan to medium-high heat.
Put 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the garlic cloves in an ovenproof dish that will hold the tomatoes in a single layer, then place in the oven to heat the oil and lightly brown the garlic, about 8 minutes. Carefully add the tomatoes to the baking dish, toss gently to coat with the hot oil, then continue to bake until the skins crack but the tomatoes do not burst, about 5 minutes. Gently toss them from time to time. Add the olives, almonds, raisins, celery, capers, hot pepper, and oregano. Carefully mix the ingredients and continue to bake for another minute or two to warm everything together. Remove from the oven and set aside.
Season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper, then coat with 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil. Grill the fish until the steaks are opaque and slightly firm, 6 to 8 minutes, turning once halfway through the cooking. Transfer to warmed plates or a serving platter.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil, the vinegar, and parsley to the reserved topping and toss gently to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon over the fish. Serve immediately.
Entertaining Note: The topping can be made a couple of hours ahead. When the tomatoes are done, remove from the oven, let the pan cool for 10 or 15 minutes, then add the other ingredients. Reheat before serving, adding the vinegar and salt as directed. The recipe can be doubled for larger groups; just make sure the baking dish is larger or use two.
Wine Recommendation: Sicilian reds, Don Pietro Rosso from Principi di Spadafora or Rosso del Soprano from Palari
Leghorn-Style Fish Stew
Cacciucco Livornese
MAKES 8 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS
From the Tuscan commercial port city of Leghorn (Livorno), this is one of Italy’s best-known coastal fish stews. The four-seasons method lets the variety of market availability direct which fish to use. Typically, a combination of five different fish, shellfish, or seafood should be chosen, one for each c in the word cacciucco. What’s important is to cook them beginning with the firmest and finishing with the flakiest so as to not overcook. A great dish for entertaining, it should be served with thick slices of grilled bread, soft polenta, or steamed potatoes.
8 garlic cloves, peeled
3 tablespoons pure olive oil
2½ pounds littleneck clams, washed and shells dried
½ cup dry white wine
1½ pounds mussels, washed, beards removed, and shells dried
4 cups Serenity Marinara (Recipes)
¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1 pound tuna or swordfish fillet, cut into 1½-inch pieces
Fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 pound sea bass or mahimahi, cut into 1½-inch pieces
1 pound halibut or flounder, cut into 1½-inch pieces
1½ tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling
2 tablespoons roughly chopped Italian parsley
Lightly crush the garlic cloves, then heat them with the pure olive oil in a large sauté pan with a lid over medium heat. When the garlic starts to sizzle, gently shake and tilt the pan so the cloves are immersed and sizzling at one side of the pan in a pool of the oil. As the cloves start to turn golden, lay the pan flat on the burner so the oil covers the entire surface. It is important the clams be dry so they don’t flare up because of any water on them when added to the hot oil. Add the clams and immediately cover the pan. Gently shake the pan to roll the clams in the hot oil, then, with the cover slightly ajar, add the wine and immediately cover again. Continue to cook, gently shaking the pan from time to time, until the clams start to open, 5 to 6 minutes. Cooking time will vary, depending on the size of the clams and the thickness of the shells. Transfer them with a slotted spoon to a baking sheet to cool. Add the mussels to the pan and cook in the same manner. Their cooking time will be much shorter than for the clams.
Add the marinara sauce and hot pepper flakes to the pan and blend with the residual liquid from the shellfish. Adjust the heat to produce a steady simmer. When the clams and mussels are cool enough to handle, remove the top shells, being careful to reserve any residual liquid, and add it to the sauce. The clams and mussels will be added later in their half shells.
Season the tuna on all sides, then add the sauce, keeping enough space between pieces so that the next fish can be placed in between. Adjust the heat so that the sauce remains at a simmer. Cook for about 3 minutes, then season and add the sea bass. Repeat the cooking, then do the same for the halibut.
Add the oregano to the pan, then place the clams and mussels in the sauce and between the pieces of fish. Do this gently so as not to break the pieces of fish, and gently shake the pan to coat the shellfish with the sauce and create an even layer of seafood in the pan.
Using a large kitchen or serving spoon, divide the fish and shellfish with some of the sauce among warmed pasta bowls or arrange on a serving platter. Drizzle with the extra virgin olive oil, then finish with the parsley. Serve subito (immediately)!
Equipment Note: A 12-inch sauté pan or casserole is best, and remember that a stainless or enameled interior will keep the wine and tomato sauce from creating any off flavor or bitterness.
Entertaining Note: The stew can be made up to an hour before serving. To reheat, bring back to serving temperature over low heat, covered, so that the fish does not overcook or fall apart.
Wine Recommendation: A deep Tuscan white from the Chianti region, Querciabella Batar, or a coastal red from the Bolgheri region, Le Macchiole Rosso
Macedonia di Frutte Fresche con Sciroppo di Limoncello
MAKES 8 DESSERT SERVINGS
By consensus, Italy’s best-known fruit salad is named after the country of Macedonia, the first province of the Roman Empire, as a dedication to the many different people who have inhabited its territory throughout history. The mixture of fruits given here is a suggestion for choosing the best the season has to offer. Limoncello, the ubiquitous southern Italian digestivo made by infusing a clear liquor, sugar, and lemon peel, is the inspiration for this very refreshing syrup.
For the Syrup:
¼ cup water
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon grappa
½ cup sugar
Strips of peel from ½ lemon
For the Fruit Salad:
2 large (about 1¼ pounds) white peaches
2 large (about 1 pound) nectarines