Bourbon Whiskey
Page 13
Taking tours is fun and interesting. Every distillery gives a different tour, and each has its own unique history and qualities. At some you’ll see the distillation firsthand. At others you’ll go into a rack house and see the barrels aging and smell the evaporation of the “angels’ share” (what the angels drink ... the bourbon evaporating from the barrels). Louisville and Lexington are the cities you’d stay in as your home base, and then you’d journey out from there to the distilleries. You could also stay in Bardstown if you wanted to get that real small-town feel, being right there in the heart of the Bourbon Capital of the World. But there isn’t as much nightlife or restaurants there compared to Louisville or Lexington. Once you’ve driven out through the rolling fields of horse country, met the passionate and friendly folks at the distilleries, and enjoyed the restaurants and nightlife here, you’ll be back. Lexington is a fun college town, home to the University of Kentucky Wildcats and Transylvania University, with great restaurants and night life. And unlike most of the country, the bars in Louisville are open until 4:00 a.m. every night of the week, so bring your “A” game.
Louisville
The Louisville Convention and Visitors Bureau has done a really cool thing by creating the Urban Bourbon Trail (justaddbourbon.com). These are bars and restaurants where you can enjoy a large selection of bourbons after visiting the distilleries. Many of these are in the downtown hotels, so I’d suggest staying at one of those so you can sample the bourbons from the distilleries you visit. There are nine accounts on the Urban Bourbon Trail, and each of these accounts offers a minimum of 50 bourbons to be part of the Urban Bourbon Trail. The Urban Bourbon Trail also has a free app for download with information, locations, etc. Just search for UrbanBRBN in your app store.
The following hotels are part of the Urban Bourbon Trail:
•The Seelbach Hotel–Fourth and Muhammad Ali Blvd–the Old Seelbach bar
•The Brown Hotel–Fourth and Broadway–lobby bar at the Brown
•Marriott Hotel–Second and Jefferson–Blu Lobby bar
•21c–Seventh and Main–named one of the top 100 hotels in the world by Conde Nast Traveller–Proof is the restaurant in the hotel
•Galt House Hotel–Fourth and Main–Jockey’s Silk’s Bourbon Bar and A.J.’s bar
The following restaurants are located on the Urban Bourbon Trail:
• Asiatique
• Avalon
• Baxter Station
• Bourbon’s Bistro
• Bristol’s Bar & Grill
• Buck’s
• Corbett’s
• Derby Cafe — at the Kentucky Derby Museum/Churchill Downs
• Dish on Market
• Doc Crows
• Jack’s/Equus
• Maker’s Mark Bourbon House and Lounge
• Limestone
• Ramsi’s
• Village Anchor
All of these accounts have at least 50 bourbons on the back bar to choose from. It’s a nice array of accounts, too. From the historic Brown and Seelbach Hotels to the new and stunning 21c, all of these are within two to three miles of each other, and those that are downtown are just a few blocks from each other.
HOTELS
THE SEELBACH HOTEL
500 S. Fourth Street
Louisville, KY 40202
phone: 502.585.3200
www.seelbachhilton.com
Old Seelbach Bar (photo courtesy of the Louisville Convention and Visitors Bureau)
The Seelbach is a historic property built in 1905 which recently went through a $12 million renovation. F. Scott Fitzgerald and Al Capone were just a couple of the visitors to this hotel. The Al Capone Poker Room is off the famous Oak Room Restaurant, complete with slanted mirrors (to peek at his opponents’ hands) and secret panels and passages to escape the Feds during Prohibition. F. Scott Fitzgerald was so inspired from his stay that he used the Seelbach as the backdrop for Tom and Daisy Buchanan’s wedding in The Great Gatsby. The Old Seelbach bar oozes history and is famous in cocktail books for the Seelbach Cocktail made with bourbon, champagne, bitters and triple sec.
THE BROWN HOTEL
335 W. Broadway
Louisville, KY 40202
phone: 502.583.1234
www.brownhotel.com
The Brown Hotel (photo courtesy of the Louisville Convention and Visitors Bureau)
The Brown was built for $4 million back in 1923 and has been a magnet for celebrities and prominent guests for the Derby or visitors to the Bourbon Trail ever since. Extensive renovations in the 1980s restored it to its full elegance in English Renaissance design, and it remains one of the most treasured landmarks in the South. In the lobby bar, you’ll be able to sip and enjoy a wide variety of bourbons and classic cocktails. The English Grill is a great restaurant, and I suggest you treat yourself and request the chef’s table. There is a minimum number of people required for this table, but if you tell them the bourbons you want to pair and taste with dinner, they will accommodate. It’s one of the most awesome dinner experiences I’ve ever had. Just across the street on Broadway is Freddie’s Bar, and you’ll swear you’ve walked back in time to the 1950s. It is one of the coolest, oldest bars in the city. Not a huge bourbon selection, but a place you’ve almost gotta experience.
THE MARRIOTT HOTEL
280 W. Jefferson Street
Louisville, KY 40202
phone: 502.627.5045
www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/sdflm-louisville-marriott-downtown
The Marriott is right in the heart of downtown Louisville with 616 rooms. Built just a few years ago, this hotel is contemporary and comfortable. The Blu Lobby bar is cozy but open to the gorgeous lobby. Blu is where all the bourbons are showcased on the back bar, and it is also where my buddies Hickory, Jim and Chris play bluegrass every Thursday night from 9:00 until midnight. Hickory loves Basil Hayden’s bourbon, Jim likes Baker’s, and Chris likes Knob Creek, so your song request might just move to the top of the list if you buy them a bourbon. One of my favorite bartenders, Clare (also a Basil Hayden’s girl), joins the band and sings a couple songs with the boys, too. It’s a fun night and a great place to stay while visiting Louisville. If I’m in town on Thursday nights, you’ll find me there, and most times Hickory invites me up to sing and play with them, too. It’s a great fun night for all, so by all means, come on by.
IF YOU STAY AT THE MARRIOTT
Since Hickory and Clare are both Basil Hayden’s fans, I’ll tell ya this story that I share during my bourbontations around the country.
Bahsil or Basil? I always refer to Basil Hayden’s bourbon as “Baaaahsil” Hayden’s bourbon, not “Baysil” Hayden’s bourbon. People invariably ask me if it is pronounced Basil, or Basil Hayden’s. I answer with this story:
I have a neighbor (this is true) who lives six doors down from me, and not only is he a great guy, but he has one of the coolest names I know: Basil Doerhorfer. (I think he’s Irish.) He’s in his 70s and is about 6’5” tall with a full head of wavy white hair, and he’s a real skinny fellow. Every day he walks his little Chihuahua-mix dog in front of my condos, and it just looks funny with him being a slender 6’5” and with that little dog on a leash. One day I saw him and said, “Hey, Basil, how are you doing?” He replied, “Well, young man, basil is an herb, Baaahsil is the name.” To which I replied, “Well, in that case I’ll just call you Dick then.” We both had a chuckle, but since then I’ve always called him and the bourbon Baaahsil.
Hickory, Chris, Clare and Jim at the Blu Bar (photo by Bernie Lubbers)
21C MUSEUM HOTEL
700 W. Main Street
Louisville, KY 40202
phone: 502.217.6300
www.21chotel.com/hotel
The Bar at Proof on Main (photo courtesy of the Louisville Convention and Visitors Bure)
What is a museum hotel? Well, everything in the hotel/restaurant is a museum exhibit! It’s something to see, and it’s not just me who says that. Conde Nast Traveller r
ated it the #1 hotel in the United States and the #6 hotel in the world! A boutique hotel that’s not snooty. It has a great sense of humor, as you’ll find by the exhibits and the large red penguins that move around the hotel and restaurant called Proof (the cheese grits are to die for). You’ll see some of the master distillers and us bourbon ambassadors at Proof from time to time, and when you come in, you’ll know why. Even the bathrooms are intriguing. Luxury accommodations with good ole Kentucky hospitality, and it’s the only museum in America dedicated solely to art created in the 21st century (get it? 21c?). Whether you visit Proof or stay at 21c, you will not think you are in Kentucky. London maybe, or New York or San Francisco, but thank God it is Kentucky!
THE GALT HOUSE HOTEL
140 S. Fourth Street
Louisville, KY 40202
phone: 502.589.5200
www.galthouse.com
Jockey Silks at the Galt House (photo courtesy of the Louisville Convention and Visitors Bureau)
The Galt House is located right on the Ohio River and is a large hotel with two towers. The rooms have recently been renovated and most of them are huge. A.J.’s lobby bar overlooks the river and Fourth Street Live, and the Jockey’s Silks Bar boasts over 100 bourbons, some that aren’t even available anymore! Rivue Restaurant sits at the top of the West Tower and overlooks Louisville and the Ohio River for great views of the Bluegrass. Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse is in the front of the Galt House and is one of the hottest spots to sip a bourbon, listen to great music, and enjoy great steaks and seafood. My good buddy and singing partner Robbie Bartlett and her band play almost every weekend there. She drinks Jim Beam Black Label and ginger ale with about five cherries in it, if you want to send one up to her. Jeff Ruby’s also has a signature Maker’s Mark dessert.
RESTAURANTS
Asiatique–1767 Bardstown Road–Louisville, KY 40205–502.451.2749 (asiatiquerestaurant.com). On the edge of the Highlands just about three miles from downtown, its food, décor, and multilevel dining rooms are all fascinating. They boast Pacific Rim cuisine in a relaxed elegant atmosphere and deliver just that.
Avalon–1314 Bardstown Road–Louisville, KY 40205–502.454.5336 (avalonfresh.com). Great atmosphere, especially in nice weather, since they have one of the best outdoor seating areas in town. Casual feel but upscale fresh American cuisine. Now that they’re on the Urban Bourbon Trail, I expect to see an even more eclectic mix of customers mingling on the outside patio. If you prefer the great indoors, the inside is really cool, too. And the food is really oustanding.
Baxter Station–1201 Payne Street–Louisville, KY 40204–502.584.1635 (www.baxterstation.com). Baxter Station is one of my favorite additions to the Bourbon Trail; I’m so glad they’re on it. It’s a nice cozy little neighborhood bar/restaurant with good food and a great casual atmosphere. It’s a 100-year-old tavern, and it’s just a mile or so from downtown.You’re also at the foot of Baxter Avenue and Bardstown Road, where the locals go to eat and drink at locally owned places. If you want to find local flavor and folks, go on down and enjoy the bourbon and food there. Baxter Station just won a 2010 Icons of Whisky Award from Whisky Magazine!
Baxter Station (photo courtesy of the Louisville Convention and Visitors Bureau)
Bourbon’s Bistro–2255 Frankfort Ave.–Louisville, KY 40206–502.894.8838 (www.bourbonsbistro.com). Voted the best whiskey bar/restaurant in 2006 in the Icons of Whisky Awards in Whisky Magazine, this is a wonderful place owned by John and Jason, two bourbon fans and all-around good guys whom you’ll see almost every night sipping on some good Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey. Located just two miles from downtown, the restaurant is also easy to get to. On Mondays they often have master distillers and ambassadors like myself host bourbon dinners. Call ahead and see if one is going on; they’re always fun and educational with delicious food. My favorite meal in the world is there, and if you see the pork chop on the menu, tell them you want it the way Bernie gets it, complete with the glass of Old Grand Dad.
Bristol Bar & Grille (Downtown)–614 West Main Street–Louisville, KY 40202–502.582.1995 (www.bristolbarandgrille.com). This has been a popular eatery in Louisville for as long as I can remember, and they have several locations around town. The one on Main is officially on the Urban Bourbon Trail now since it’s right on Whiskey Row.
Buck’s–425 W. Ormsby (in the Mayflower)–Louisville, KY 40202–502.637.5284 (www.bucksrestaurantandbar.com). This is a lil’ hidden gem in the city, located in Old Louisville just off Fourth in Ormsby in the historic Mayflower building. Buck always liked “moon gardens,” which are all-white flower gardens, so the place is just covered in white flowers. Dinner is served on all kinds of fine china that doesn’t match, which is pretty cool, and Rick Bartlett (my singing partner Robbie’s brother) plays piano and sings there almost every night.
Corbett’s–5050 Norton’s Health Care Blvd–Louisville, KY 40241–502.327.5058 (corbettsrestaurant.com). Owned by Chef Corbett from Equus, this location is about 10 miles east. Corbett’s features an inventive menu and cutting-edge technology. Built in the historic Von Allmen mansion, which once housed Kentucky’s first working dairy farm, Corbett’s boasts a stunning interior design, a menu with the highest quality ingredients, an extensive wine list, impressive artisanal cheese selection and an interactive digital chef’s table.
Derby Café at the Kentucky Derby Museum–704 Central Avenue–Louisville, KY 40202–502.634.0858 (derbycafe.com). So many people come to this museum at historic Churchill Downs, and with all the special events that take place here, it just made sense. Come see and drink history here at the Café.
Dish on Market–434 W. Market Street–Louisville, KY 40202–502.315.0669 (www.dishonmarket.com). My buddy Anderson opened this place, and it’s got a brisk breakfast and lunch business Monday through Friday, and they serve up damn good grub. In addition to breakfast and lunch, they have happy hour until 7:00 pm. The restaurant has a nice little bourbon selection, and Anderson has been to several of the distilleries and has a genuine passion for bourbon.
Doc Crow’s Southern Smokehouse and Raw Bar–127 W. Main Street–Louisville, KY 40202–502.587.1626 (www.doccrows.com). Located in historic Whiskey Row, this restaurant celebrates seafood from the coast and diverse BBQ styles from the interior. Located right next to the Yum Center and the Second Street Bridge.
Equus–122 Sears Avenue–Louisville, KY 40207–502.897.9721 (equusrestaurant.com). This is Chef Dean Corbett’s place in St. Matthew’s. (He also has Corbett’s in the east part of town.) This is a laid-back neighborhood spot with a warm feel and good food. Joy Perrine is the queen of the roost there, and she’s also the bourbon queen. She and Susan Reigler wrote a great cocktail book, Kentucky Bourbon Cocktail Book. Check them out, and be sure to tell Joy that Bernie sent ya.
Limestone–10001 Forest Green Blvd.–Louisville, KY 40207–502.426.7477 (limestonerestaurant.com). Limestone blends new Southern cooking with old Southern charm. Fred Noe and I (and just about every other distiller/ambassador) have done bourbon dinners there with chef/owner Jim Gerhardt. Located only about a 20-minute drive from downtown, Limestone is closed on Sundays.
Maker’s Mark Bourbon House (photo courtesy of the Louisville Convention and Visitors Bureau)
Maker’s Mark Bourbon House and Lounge–446 S. Fourth Street–Louisville, KY 40202–502.568.9009 (www.makerslounge.com). The lounge is located right in the center of Fourth Street Live in the tourist block of Louisville. You’ll find the Hard Rock Café there and other fun places to hang out. From its name you can tell it’s a bourbon bar, and the food there is often paired with bourbon, of course.
Ramsi’s Cafe; on the World—1293 Bardstown Road—Louisville, KY 40204 (www.ramsiscafe.com) Ramsi, the son of the only female liquor-store owner in Jerusalem, moved to Kentucky and married a local girl, and they’ve raised their family above this popular eatery in the heart of the Highlands. It truly does feature more than 100 dishes from all over the globe, including the Cubean Burrito (favorite of Rob
, my buddy from Heaven Hill), hummus and (my favorite) the Jamaican Jerk chicken sandwich. Ramsi’s features a great Sunday brunch, and as they are part of the Urban Bourbon Trail, you can taste bourbons from any distillery you visit while there.
Village Anchor–11507 Park Road–Louisville, KY 40202–502.708.1850 (www.villageanchor.com). Located in an old train station in the fashionable Anchorage neighborhood, the Village Anchor is a cool old building with great comfort food. Downstairs is the Sea Hag bar, and Kyle is the resident bourbon guru. Kevin owns the place and has already won a few awards for this, his first-ever restaurant.
So there you have it, the Urban Bourbon Trail (that’s just fun to say, isn’t it?). Just remember that several of the accounts on the Urban Bourbon Trail are busier for happy hour or dinner. Blu Café (Marriott), Proof and Bourbon’s Bistro have the better later-in-the-evening scene, especially Thursday at Blu with Hickory and the boys playing bluegrass ’til midnight.
There are also several locally owned bars and restaurants you should check out. I’m always one to support the little guy, and the local guy, too. If you want to go to where the locals drink and hang out to get a real taste of Louisville, I’d suggest taking a two-mile car ride to the Highlands to one of these accounts. It’s also quite a bit more affordable to hang out and have many of the same bourbons at these places, and they all have excellent bourbon selections.