My Journey to Freedom and Ultralight Backpacking

by Carol Wellman

  Your sleeping bag is your most fundamental guard against hypothermia. When all else fails, you can set up camp, climb in your bag and get warm, but only if you have kept that bag dry.

  Rainmaker taught me that four layers of protection for your sleeping bag and lounging clothes will keep them dry in the worst of deluges. A silnylon stuff sack, lined with a plastic garbage bag, comprises the first two layers. The sleeping bag is stuffed into that. Then, the stuff sack is placed in your pack, which is the third layer. A pack cover provides the fourth. Some hikers even line their packs with a large garbage bag. Remember to have your shelter available for pitching without disturbing your sleeping bag. You should never expose your sleeping bag (even though it's in a stuff sack) to even a small amount of rain or drizzle. Keep it protected until you are under a good shelter.

  It is a bad practice to sleep with a water bottle to prevent it from freezing. The bottle could burst, or leak from its seal. Even Nalgene bottles have broken seals and leaked. If it is so cold you fear your water may freeze, it is no time to be taking a chance getting your bag wet. Instead, fill your cooking pot with the morning’s water, and thaw it on your stove.

  A tent or bivy will add about 10 degrees of warmth over sleeping in the open air. If a tarp is lowered and pitched out of the wind, it will add extra warmth, depending on the enclosed area.

  Bag liners made of silk or fleece will add warmth to the sleep system. You can sew a silnylon stuff sack into the foot-seam inside your sleeping bag, to serve as a vapor barrier for those really cold nights. Then, the stuff sack is used for packing up your sleeping bag. Vapor barrier bags, or dry rain gear can be worn inside your bag on cold nights. For more cold weather tips, you can check out Chapter 8, Winter Ultralighting.

  Clothing

  Hiking clothes are generally shorts, a light top, socks and shoes, and in sunny areas, a brimmed cap. In 2002 on the AT, several guys and a few women I met were hiking in skirts, sundresses, or kilts. If you chose to hike with a skirt or kilt, underwear or a "privacy button" (that closes one side to another) is necessary when lounging in mixed company. The skirts and kilts were said to be cool, comfortable and to prevent chafing. Some people prefer to hike in long pants to decrease sun exposure or to have additional bug protection.

  Whatever you chose to hike in, look for something loose and comfortable in a nylon or polyester blend. Silk is very comfortable but breaks down after prolonged sun exposure. However, silk dries quickly and is about as light as you can get, about 2 ounces for a pair of shorts. Lycra shorts are lightweight and quick drying, weigh between 4-5 ounces, but have no pockets. Pockets are a definite plus. With the right shorts, a fanny pack can be eliminated from the gear list. I don't bother with the zip off style pants. They are heavy, expensive, and the zippers could get jammed, or break.

  The next clothing layers are to provide warmth, promote wicking, and give wind and rain protection, without any duplication. Brian Robinson began his successful Triple Crown hike on Springer Mountain, Georgia, January 1, 2001. The ultralight system he used to keep warm worked very well. I have used the same system in temperatures down to 5 degrees while testing gear, with winds gusting to 30 mph. Basically, all your clothing should fit you so that they can be layered and worn at the same time. They should permit enough movement so you can be comfortable while walking in the coldest conditions that you expect to encounter. All this clothing should fit inside your sleeping bag to keep you warm enough in the coldest nighttime conditions you expect. By doing this, you can get by with a lighter sleeping bag. Your sleeping bag will be used in camp while you cook and lounge, so you do not need a warm jacket for camp use only. A down bag allows some moisture to evaporate without soaking the bag, so that even when damp clothes are worn to bed, (for instance, a light fleece pullover), they will dry from your own body heat.

  For fall, spring, and summer time mountain backpacking, I recommend 4 layers for the entire body. The outer layer is the rain/wind jacket with a hood and pants. Mine are made of silnylon and both weigh 6 ounces. They can be used as a vapor barrier inside a sleeping bag. If you plan to wear your rain gear while washing clothes in a trail town, be sure it isn’t transparent. Only black or an opaque silver silnylon have been found to be acceptable when worn alone.

  A micro-fleece jacket, and fleece tights, are my preferences for the insulating layers. Chose a jacket with a hood, and sleeves that are plenty long. Your jacket should not be too loose, though. Extra width and length will add up in volume and weight. The tights should be snug and fit next to the skin. Fleece is lightweight, dries quickly, and feels warm even when wet.

  Fleece gloves or mittens are good in all but the hottest weather. Do not take down your shelter in the morning with the gloves on, however, since they may become wet with condensation that has accumulated overnight. This will make your hands cold until your gloves dry. Instead, take down your shelter with bare hands. Dry your hands, and then put on the dry gloves or mittens. In cold weather, I usually take one small set of each. When cooking, the gloves can be very useful as potholders. Mittens are great for sleeping, and can be worn over that small pair of gloves. Fleece or wool socks for sleeping are the insulating layer for the feet.

  The mid weight top layer is a silk or a polyester blend, long sleeve shirt. I really like the feel of silk, and it weighs only 3-4 ounces. It dries quickly, wicks away body moisture, and insulates but takes up very little pack space. Previously, silk button-down shirts were very fashionable. You can find them inexpensively priced at thrift stores. Get two, one to carry and one to bounce ahead in your drop box, because they will break down with sun's rays over time.

  The mid-weight bottom layer is heavy dance tights, or silk bottoms. Either weigh about 3 ounces. They have just the right amount of warmth for those cold hiking days, and can be worn under rain pants, wicking away moisture. I keep a fleece watch cap and back-up nylon socks for the midweight head and foot layer.

  My basic layer is nylon shorts with at least two pockets, sports top with built in bra, nylon socks with a cuff so they will stay up when hiking, and hat when hiking in the desert.

  When the four layers were worn all at once, I was comfortable hiking in temperatures of 5 degrees, with wind chills of 10 below zero.

  Hats vary with personality. For unshaded, desert, snow or mountain hiking, a broad brimmed hat is important. It will protect your eyes from glare, your head from sunburn, and hold in heat or provide shade. Be sure to have a safety cord attached so that in high winds you can secure it either under your chin, or to your pack.

  Some hikers bring an extra set of shorts and top to be worn in town when their clothes are being washed. You can wear raingear, pushing up the pant legs and sleeves to keep cool.

  You may want to consider bringing a light set of sleeping clothes to keep your sleeping bag clean. A pair of silk shorts weighs 2 ounces, and a sleeveless silk top is 3 ounces. A polyester sleeveless sleep shirt, measuring 32 inches long by 22 inches wide weighs only 3.5 ounces, 100 grams, and can be worn in town with shorts or rain pants. Many times hikers will sleep in their mid weight layer. At times, this layer can be wet or dirty. Sleeping naked can be a problem in full shelters, and if camping with others. Also, it will cause your sleeping bag to pick up unpleasant odors.

  Footwear

  Running shoes and athletic footwear have taken the place of heavy hiking boots for many ultralight backpackers. The saying is that one pound on your feet is equivalent to 5 pounds on your back. I don't know if any tests exist to support that claim, but my body seems to agree.

  A well-built trail shoe will last from 500 to over 1,000 trail miles. They dry quickly, do not require breaking in, and are much easier on knees and ligaments. Some do not have sufficient inserts, or arch supports, but otherwise are fine shoes. Inserts can be bought separately, if necessary. Examine the tread for a good pattern, especially under the ball and heel. A close, deep tread is necessary. Tread that is spaced too far apart will allow rocks or roots to injure your foot.r />
  When trying them on in the store, bring along the same weight and size socks you plan to use on the trail. Your foot is larger in the evening than morning. Adequate toe room with a good fitting heel is important. My rule is that if any part of the shoe hurts my foot in the store, it is unacceptable. Trail Runner shoes will relax somewhat with wear, but time will not change leather reinforcements that are rubbing in the wrong places.

  My checklist when shoe shopping follows:

  1-Check price. If is less than $80, continue. That's very subjective, you may be willing to spend much more.

  2-Before trying them on, lift one shoe. Does it seem heavy? If so,

  reject!

  3-If not, then check the tread pattern. If it is low, and

  has a lot of spaces, especially beneath the ball of the foot, reject!

  4-If the pattern is deep, and closely set, especially

  under the ball of the foot, check inside. If it has a junky padding, reject. Inserts can be added later. If you generally wear

  inserts, bring them with you to the store.

  5-If the interior looks reasonable, check for flex by the laces, just at the instep area. If it refuses to bend, your foot may become injured while fighting this rigidity when climbing and descending trail. If it is too soft, the foot bed is not strong enough and will wear out quickly. If the flex is firm, requiring some muscle to bend, yet yielding, then continue.

  6-Try the shoe on. You may need to try on a few different sizes, depending on style, time of day, and for women, the time of month. If any part hurts, reject. If it feels reasonable, some trail wear may work it out.

  7-If it feels terrific, buy. I don't care how inexpensive, how “On-Sale” it is. If it doesn't feel good in the store, it won't feel good on the trail. The fitting is such a crucial thing, what works for one, may injure another. I take it on a shoe-by-shoe basis.

  Don't limit yourself to just brand names. My favorite trail shoes remain a pair of relatively inexpensive Faded Glory high tops, which gave me over 1,400 miles on the Pacific Crest Trail in 2001.

  Extra length in the shoelaces should be trimmed and heat-sealed, not so much for the weight as the tendency for longer laces to become untied when hiking.

  Over the course of a long hike, examine the inserts and tread for wear. Sometimes it's easy to forget about the tread, while only noting the upper wear. Amazingly, I have worn the tread off shoes while the upper remained totally fine. Also, if the inserts are nearly worn out, they can cause blisters to form. Replace inserts if necessary. Some long distance hikers buy an extra pair of shoes or inserts and mail them in their bounce boxes. If they don't need them then, they simply bounce them ahead.

  Socks

  The socks you choose will depend on several issues. If you find some that you love, buy several pair. Be sure they stay up when hiking. Ship some to yourself in a drop box or bounce box on long hikes, because you can never be sure what you will find in towns along the way. When mending any portion, keep the stitches small and the fabric flat. Sometimes, I just leave small holes alone rather than risk the chance of blisters forming under seams. Some hikers swear by sock liners, a thin nylon sock worn under a heavier wool or synthetic blend. I double sock only in very cold weather, and then the inner liner may be the foot in my tights. If the foot of the tights wears out beyond repair, increase the size of the hole until your whole foot will fit through, and wear them as leggings. That is a Thoreauian approach to ultralight gear.

  Weight is important. Weather is a factor, as well as the amount of space you have in your shoe. If you sleep cold, be sure to bring a pair exclusively for camp use. Keep them dry at all costs, along with your sleeping bag and sleepwear. Fleece socks are ideal for sleeping, and Smart Wool is pure luxury anytime.

  Weight and bulk of socks vary according to size and fabric content. A pair of my Smart Wool socks weighed 120 grams; a pair of fleece was 58 grams; 100% nylon socks weighed 20 grams. As you can see, if one takes three pairs of socks, weights could vary from 360 grams down to 60 grams, a difference of 300 grams, or 10.5 ounces. The volume difference is noticeable as well. I use 100% nylon in all but the coldest temperatures.

  Three is a good number because it gives you one pair to sleep in, one to wear, and one for back-up or washing. I have seen hikers bring as many as six pairs, one for every day of the week. Besides the bulk, I just wouldn’t be able to keep up with that many items. It is recommended to air-dry socks every night, even if you don't get a chance to wash them. I have tried hiking without socks but the seams in the shoes caused abrasion, which would have turned to blisters later.

  To keep feet happy and reduce blisters, regardless of which socks you bring, or how many you wear at once, remember to allow feet to air-dry as often as possible. If you take a break near a stream, soak your feet, and allow them to dry completely before putting your socks back on. When dry camping, we clean our feet at night with a cotton ball soaked in 70% rubbing alcohol. At night, once your feet are cleaned and dried, rub lotion or Vaseline on them to keep the skin supple and to prevent painful cracking, especially on the heels. In preparation for long hikes, and just for the sensory pleasure, I go barefoot around home and in the yard. This will strengthen the ankles, toughen the soles of the feet, and accustom them to mild abuse.

  Cook Systems

  I learned a lot of things about cooking while trailside, things I'd like to share before describing my ultralight cooking methods.

  With ultralight stoves, the fuel's cost, availability and weight are the greatest concerns because the stove itself is just a quarter of an ounce. To save fuel and keep food hot, be prepared to insulate it when mealtime is delayed. Imagine you have cooked your supper, and something unexpected comes up, like a nature call, or furry visitor. Maybe you thought of something to write in your journal, or want to put on more clothes. To keep your food warm for five to ten minutes without having to reheat it, insulate your pot. If you still have some heat at the bottom, but no flame, do not remove the pot, but insulate it from the sides and especially on top by wrapping your windscreen and then your camp towel around the sides. On top, place some small article of clothing, like mittens, a bandana or hat. You can use your hiking boot as a cup holder to keep coffee hot longer. Some people bring a pot cozy made of closed cell foam sized just big enough for the pot to fit inside. A foam lid can be made to go with it.

  Hot salsa is risky on trail, even those little individual packages of free salsa found in hiker boxes. At the time, they look great for spicing up rather bland corn tortillas. Beware. If it is too hot for your taste, you may not have enough water with you to alleviate the ensuing pain.

  Most things cool off considerably at night. If you have cheese and soft breads, they will keep much better if allowed to cool at night, then wrapped in clothing and stored deep in your pack during the day. After using, return the food to its place in the pack. At night, place it closer to the outside of the food bag where it is less insulated and able to chill with the nighttime air. Chocolate candy bars are easier to eat when they are cool, and solid.

  Don’t mix food that must be cooked with food that can be eaten raw. Ramen noodles are great eaten straight out of the package, uncooked. However, if you mix them in zip-loc bags with cooking-required-for-digestion foods, they become less available. Angel hair spaghetti cooks fine in about 5 minutes. It’s very hard to eat raw, though. Once, running short on lunches, but having plenty of mixed pastas, I started picking the edible ramen noodles out of my supper pasta blend. Quick cooking raw oatmeal can be eaten raw, as well as cheeses, jerky, and nuts, which make them great emergency foods. If these are mixed with macaroni, or dehydrated vegetables in a bag, they aren’t so accessible.

  Breads and cookies make great crumbs. Be prepared to eat cookies, pastries, and corn tortillas with a spoon. The first days after a resupply, when they are whole, you can spread them with peanut butter. Once they turn into crumbs, they can be sprinkled on cold breakfast cereals, or stirred together with peanut bu
tter and eaten out of your pot. Pretzels will leave a lot of salt in the bottom of a bag. Be careful of adding that to your breakfast cereal and milk.

  Powders, such as coffee, lemonade mix, sugar and dry milk escape the best of zip-loc bags. For that reason, I double bag them into a "powders bag", a gallon sized zip-loc bag containing small zip-loc bags of various powders. Remember to label each bag. Sugar and salt look similar. A hiker once tasted some white powder to find out if it was laundry soap, or dry milk. It was laundry soap.

  Life is too short, so buy the best zip-loc bags you can find. A zip-loc bag that won’t hold a seal, or tears at the top when you use it, is not worth much. Buy the good ones, and they will last you for several hundred miles. Poor quality bags will cause you hours of discontent, and even cursing, when food escapes into stuff sacks or when cold fingers cannot negotiate a successful seal.

  Always test your gear and food recipes before leaving on a long journey. Hiker boxes are filled with the same trail mixtures. Made at home in vast quantities, and packaged into various drop boxes, the long distance hiker soon tires of eating the same healthy concoction, week after week. The same meals of corn pasta, tomato leather and 8-bean-soup-mix get left behind, town after town.

  Before adding all those healthy legumes to corn meal and rice mixes, try cooking them at home under trail conditions. Regular brown rice takes an eternity to cook. It doesn’t rehydrate well, either. Some hikers plan to rehydrate beans and brown rice while they walk. That means carrying an extra pound of water in a wide mouth quart-size container, and letting the food soak somewhere in your pack. Hopefully, it will not spill or ferment. If you choose to rehydrate while hiking, use treated water. Otherwise, all that time spent rehydrating will also be time spent feeding harmful bacteria. Some hikers grow alfalfa, radish and bean sprouts daily, which require a rotation system. All unusual recipes should be tried at home, under realistic trail conditions.