My Journey to Freedom and Ultralight Backpacking

by Carol Wellman

  You will need:

  Fleece:

  ...1/3 yard for Ski Band

  ...1/2 yard for Neck Gaiter

  ...1/2 yard for Watch Cap

  ...1/2 yard for Mittens

  These measurements for yardage are linear. Fleece is sold 60 inches wide, so if you are making two or more things, you may still only need 1/2 yard, because there will be remnants left from one project for another. For instance, the watch cap and mittens would fit side by side on 1/2 yard of 60" wide fleece. It is necessary to have the stretch in the right direction, that's why the linear measurements are important. Be sure, when you lay out your fabric, to check the direction of the stretch. This is important to insure the garment “gives” in the correct direction. Cut with a sharp scissors. Sometimes the fuzz will build up in the bobbin case of your sewing machine. Clean this with a small, dry paintbrush after sewing to prevent tension problems later. Use 100% polyester thread and a size 14-ball point sewing machine needle. Stitches are 10 per inch, seam allowances 1/2 inch. Always backstitch beginning and ending of seams to secure.

  Ski Band

  Cut a rectangle 9 inches wide by 14 inches long. The length should be stretchable. With right sides together, sew long side. Turn right side out. You should have a long tube. Tuck under 3/4 inch of fleece (to the inside) on one end of tube. Slide other, unfinished end into this and pin. Hand or machine stitch these ends together.

  Neck Gaiter

  Cut a rectangle 18 inches long by 28 inches wide. The stretch should be along the width. Fold rectangle in half, so that it measures 18 inches long by 14 inches wide. With right sides together, sew along side edge, forming tube. Turn right side out. Hem bottom and top by folding to inside 1/2 inch of fabric and stitching.

  Watch Cap

  Using a favorite cap as a pattern, trace around it on a piece of plastic or newsprint. Cut out this pattern, leaving one extra inch all along for seam allowance. If you want a cuff, add an additional 7 inches on the length. This will increase the weight by about two ounces. The cap must have the stretch on the width.

  Lay out fabric, place pattern piece on top. Cut two. With right sides together, stitch all curved sides together leaving the end open. Leaving it inside out, fold fleece up 1/2 inch for a basic hem, or 5 inches for a cuff. Stitch close to raw edge. Turn right side out. The cap may be folded up to form a cuff, or pulled all the way down.

  Mittens

  To make pattern, lay your hand on a piece of plastic sheeting or newsprint. Trace around it, or copy the pattern as you did for the watch cap. If you want a longer cuff, add the additional length to your pattern. Add an additional inch for seam allowances. Lay the pattern on fleece, with the stretch going the width of your hand. Cut two mittens out, two for each hand, providing a total of 4 pieces. To be sure you have a left and right, lay them side-by-side, thumbs facing each other. Unless the fabric is different on one side, this won't matter.

  Stitch all curved edges, leaving wrist edge open. Hem wrist-edge by folding under 1/2 inch and stitching close to raw edge. Snip curves between thumb and index finger, and at top of thumb. Turn right side out.

  If you plan to sew them onto a fleece pullover or jacket, do not hem first. Put on the jacket, then the mittens. Pull the sleeves down and bend your elbow. This will insure that you have enough movement. Mark the top of the mitten where it overlaps the jacket. That will be the stitching line. Leave the underside of the mitten unattached, with a longer cuff, which can be tucked in. Sew in the top of the mitten; trim away unnecessary fabric, leaving the unattached part longer. Hem the raw edges.

  Flat Tarps

  Directions are written for using 1.3-ounce silicone impregnated rip-stop nylon, which generally is sold in 65-inch widths.

  You will need 2 inches extra for hem allowances on each side, meaning the raw piece will be 4 inches longer, and 4 inches wider than the finished product. Center seams are based on a one-inch seam allowance, sufficient for double rolling and stitching to finish seams.

  You can use web strapping or gross grain ribbon for the staking loops, or make fabric strips from silnylon, as described previously. Cut into lengths as needed. I use 7-inch lengths for my center seam double loops, 6-inch lengths for the corners, and 5-inch lengths for perimeter hems.

  If you want a 5 foot wide tarp, cut the length desired with an additional 4 inches for hem allowances.

  If you want a 10 foot wide tarp, cut two of the lengths desired with an additional 4 inches on each piece for seam allowances.

  If you want a tarp width between those two measurements, you will need to trim the fabric, and heat seal the entire edge. For an 8 foot wide tarp, cut two lengths, each 51 inches wide. This gives you one inch for the center seam, and 2 inches for hemming the perimeter. If you want a 9-foot wide tarp, cut the widths 57 inches for the same reasons.

  If you have a center seam:

  Start by preparing the center loops that you plan to add as you sew the center seam. Mark the placements for the loops with chalk. Sew both lengths together, inserting double folded loops at placement markings. Back stitch while adding the loops. One loop should be on the underside, and one loop formed on the top side, sticking out of the seam allowance. Double stitch this center seam by folding over within the seam allowance, and stitching close to the first row.

  Next, cut 4 lengths of staking loop fabric, 6 inches each for the corners. Cut the other 5-inch staking loops. Place them in different piles. Mark within the seam allowance where you will insert the loops as you hem your tarp. Heat-seal any cut edges before you begin hemming.

  Fold over the perimeter edge twice, a double roll, and stitch close to the inner edge. Fold prepared fabric strips in half to form staking loops, and insert them into the hem at markings. Backstitch the loop, then fold the loop towards the outside and stitch over again. Continue around perimeter in this manner. When you get to the corner, you will want to place the loop at an angle, so that when it is finished, the loop can be used from either direction. Sew a second roll of stitching close to the edge, including loops in this process. Reinforce corner loops with an x pattern. If you have a center seam, seam seal it, and allow to dry 24 hours before stuffing into stuff sack.

  My Nine Ounce Appalachian Trail Silpack

  This is by far the most difficult pattern. Read all the steps through before proceeding. If you have a daypack, book bag backpack, or internal frame pack, set it out for referencing.

  This pack was made totally out of silnylon, closed cell padding, plastic buckles and web strapping for the shoulder straps, reinforcements and hip belt. Later, I sewed a mesh ditty bag onto the front. My design is based on the idea of one large stuff sack set within another. The bottoms of those sacks are sewn together.

  Outside gear pockets were then formed by stitching 4 vertical side seams, one on each side, and one in the center of the front and the back. A cover flap with Velcro closures can be added for each pocket if wanted. All reinforcement stitching was done in triangular and x-patterns, which does not rip out like a straight pattern will. A one-inch seam allowance was used for extra strength. Every seam was seam sealed with 100% silicone, as described above for tarps and shelters.

  Silnylon fabric loops were sewn into the bottom seam, in order to cinch a stuff sack or closed cell sleeping pad underneath. All my AT gear for cold weather fit inside the pack and in the pockets. The extension collar/cover flap had a pocket for those really important things like toilet paper and data sheets. A hip belt was sewn-in with webbing reinforcement. The belt measured 3 inches wide and ½ inch thick. A tiny pocket was added to the hip belt to carry my 1-ounce bottle of chlorine for water treatment.

  Shoulder straps were made from closed cell padding covered by silnylon. Mine were 3 inches wide, and ½ inch thick. Initially appearing too wide, these straps proved to be quite comfortable because they distributed the weight so well.

  My two 24-ounce water bottles were carried in silnylon pouches threaded onto the front straps. A shock-cord band held the nec
k of each bottle snug against the strap. Water carried in this way serves as a counterbalance for pack weight, and provides quick, easy access. Also, I was always aware of how much water I had, and could refill and treat water trailside without taking my pack off.

  Please keep in mind that I am five foot 2 inches. If you are much taller than that, adjusting the length on pack and shoulder straps may be necessary.

  Supplies to make this Silpack:

  2 1/2 yards silnylon

  3 yards of 1'' wide web strapping

  2 yards of ½ inch wide Velcro, if wanted for pocket closures

  Mesh ditty bags for outer pocket, if wanted

  Closed cell pad

  Draw cord for pack

  3 Cord locks

  2 ultralight plastic clips

  Hip belt buckle

  Shoulder strap buckles

  Seam sealer

  To make this pack, begin by sewing two large stuff sacks, one shorter than the other. The shorter one will serve as the outer layer, and form outside pockets. When one is placed within the other, the bottom will have a double thickness. Use one-inch seam allowances, heat seal, double roll and stitch every seam

  My 2,288 cubic inch capacity backpack is made with a rectangle of silnylon, measuring 30 inches long by 40 inches wide. Cut a generous collar for the large stuff sack. The second, shorter stuff sack was made from a rectangle 22 inches tall by 45 inches wide. As you can see, the outer one will be wider, and will give the pockets some slack, providing additional space. Sew both stuff sacks as described in the directions above, omitting the collar on the shorter one, but still hemming the top of it. On the shorter one, add bottom loops for gear if desired. When both the stuff sacks are made, turn right-side out. Insert the longer one into the shorter one. Match the bottom seams and sew the bottoms together.

  You can thread some ¼-inch wide elastic though the casing of the outer sack, and draw it tight to keep gear from falling out. As you sew this pack, any seam can have a loop and an ultralight plastic clip inserted. It is easier to do it now, and reinforce the loop, than to add a loop later. At this time, you can sew in the two clips for securing the top pack lid in place. Place them near the top of each of the front gear pockets. Each loop of silnylon will add about one gram additional weight.

  Now, pin the side seams, the center and back seams, marking a straight line with chalk where you will sew. Then stitch these lines vertically to form gear pockets. Add Velcro closures to the pockets, if wanted.

  The shoulder straps are made of two rectangular silnylon pieces, each measuring 8 inches wide by 18 inches long. Fold the pieces in half, and sew the long seam. Double stitch to reinforce. Insert an 8-inch length of web strap up into the inside of one end of this tube, so you cannot see the strap. Stitch through the web strap as you sew the bottom of the silnylon tube closed. That will be the bottom of your padded shoulder strap. Turn this tube right side out. Your web strap will be hanging down from the end of the tube. Reinforce from the outside with an x stitch pattern. Sew the plastic buckle on the end of this web strap for the bottom section of the shoulder straps to thread through later.

  Now, cut two pieces of closed cell pad 3 inches wide by 16 inches long. Insert into the tubes. Stitch tubes shut at the top to hold the padding in place.

  Measure down about 7 inches from the top of the pack and sew the straps on. Place them about two inches apart. Shoulder straps should be lying flat, going downwards, right sides facing up.

  Make the lid for the pack by cutting a rectangle 17 inches wide by 38 inches long. You will use this extra length to form a front lid pocket and corresponding flap.

  To form a pocket the width of the lid, hem one 17-inch end of the rectangle. Then, fold the hemmed end up 10 inches, and stitch the sides together. Just above the pocket opening, fold down 2 inches of fabric over the pocket opening, the entire width of the lid to form a flap. Pin in place. This flap protects the contents of the pocket.

  Sew down part of the top edge of the flap, stitching through the pocket top at the same time. Sew from each side towards the center about 5 inches. Then add a Velcro closure to the remaining pocket opening.

  Along each long edge of the lid, make a draw cord casing, by double rolling the fabric and stitching close to the inner edge. This casing will run the entire length of the lid, including the sides of the pocket you just made.

  Thread cord through so that the lid can be tightened, and prevent rain from getting in while you are hiking. Stitch down cord at the end to be attached to the pack. Put cord locks and clips on the opposite ends of the cords, which were threaded out at the bottom corners of the pocket. These cord locks will allow you to cinch up the lid, and secure with the clips that were added previously, so that it will stay that way while you are hiking.

  Sew the lid onto the pack ½ inch below the seam that attaches the shoulder straps to the pack. You will have the top, right side of the lid facing the outside of the pack and lying over the shoulder straps. The pocket will be downwards, touching the shoulder straps, and not be visible. As you stitch the lid on, you will be sewing through the shoulder straps also, serving to reinforce them.

  Next, fold the lid up over the top of the pack. Pin a 13-inch piece of web strap over the lid seam, beginning where the shoulder straps start. You will have excess strap, which will serve as a lift loop right at the center. This lift loop really comes in handy when you need to grab your pack, or hang it on a hook. The easiest way to center this web is to begin at the farthest side of one shoulder strap, and stitch toward the middle. When you get to the middle, reinforce with an x stitch pattern, then sew back to where you started and reinforce with another x pattern. Then stop, turn the pack around to the other shoulder strap and sew the web strap on there, working your way to the middle. You should end up with a loop right in the center.

  To make your hip belt, cut a rectangle of silnylon measuring about 8 inches wide and as long as your waist. You will carry this pack lower, but you want to have some guideline. Once the seams are taken in, and it is attached, the padding will be shorter than your waist. This is important because on a long hike, your waist and hips will shrink, and if the padding is too long, you won't be able to tighten your belt enough.

  Cut two web straps, one about 6 inches, the other about 15 inches. These will be inserted on each end of your belt. Fold the silnylon in half lengthwise, stitch the long seam, inserting one end of the shorter web strap as you did previously for the shoulder straps. Turn right side out.

  Cut closed cell pad 3 inches wide by the length of your tube. Cut this into three sections, one for the back, about 14-16 inches long, and two for each side, about 5 inches each. Insert into tube, one side first. Stitch fabric together to hold in place. Do not include the pad in this seam. Insert the back pad section. Stitch fabric together to hold this in place. Then add the last piece of padding, fold fabric to the inside, and stitch this closed while also inserting the web strap for your other side of the belt.

  Put the pack on, and mark where the hip belt is to be sewn on, so that it will ride on your hips, just below your belly button. There will be some adjustment with the shoulder straps, so it is just necessary to be close. It should be near the bottom of the pack itself.

  Sew belt onto pack at the same places you stitched the fabric together to hold the padding in the hip belt tube.

  The bottom sections of your shoulder straps will be two short pieces of web strap about 15 inches long. They will thread through the two plastic non-slip buckles that were sewn onto the shoulder straps previously, and at the same time serve to reinforce the hip belt.

  To do this, lay the bottom section of shoulder strap over the vertical seam that attached the hip belt to the pack. The bottom end of the strap will be at the bottom edge of the vertical seam of the hip belt. Sew the strap over the vertical seam. Sew close to the edges, reinforcing with x stitching patterns.

  Thread a ¼ inch diameter cord for the draw cord on your pack. When the pack is full, you need a cord
thick enough for the cord lock to grasp securely.

  Your pack can have a mesh ditty bag sewn onto the front, centering it over the other silnylon gear pockets. This will add about one ounce of weight to your pack.

  Seam seal every seam with 100% silicone. Apply to one area at a time, and allow each to dry between steps.

  Congratulations! You are now a bona fide gram weenie.

  The Ultralight Resupply

  Many long distance hikers at some point will mail a drop box to themselves. This box may be sent parcel post or priority, at least 2 weeks in advance of the projected arrival time. A common practice is to obtain a medium size box, and start adding things to it. Food, vitamins, maps, insect repellent, shampoo, toilet paper, shoelaces, new socks, new zip lock bags, reading material, tape, hexamine tablets (fuel source), toothpaste, laundry powder, and batteries are typical supplies. Sometimes a few extra clothes are included if weather or terrain is changing.

  Hiker boxes are filled with the extras mailed in this way. I have learned to weigh the box at home before sealing it up. If the box weighs more than 10-12 pounds, I know I will not carry its contents out of my resupply town. The best time to discard the extra weight is at home. Are my non-food items in the smallest plastic containers possible? Snack size zip-loc bags are perfect for vitamins and hexamine fuel tablets. An .85-ounce tube of toothpaste will last several weeks. Only ¼ cup of dry laundry detergent is needed for that town’s laundry. An ounce of shampoo is all that can be used in town. Shampoo isn’t used in the backcountry, and so it will not be hauled out of town. If I am picking up new socks, I discard the old ones.

  Some folks will carry extra weight for many miles to save money in the next town. Would you carry one pound of weight for 10 cents per mile? Using that rate for a reference, it would mean being paid (or saving) $10 to carry one pound for a hundred miles. Take a one-pound can in your hand, and wonder if you would carry that for 100 miles, if someone gave you $10. Usually, when you get to town, you find you have carried several pounds of extra fuel, shampoo, food or paper, and saved just a few dollars. When the hills are really steep, the weight adds up to misery, and the money seems inconsequential.