by David Greene
diabetes, 148–49
dictatorship, 9, 14
dining cars, 99–100, 270–71
Dirty Dancing, 128
disabled individuals, 113–20, 290–92
divorce, 219
documentation, 44, 51–52, 76–77, 124–25, 151–52, 175, 189–90, 209, 210, 217–18, 227
dogs, 194
Domodedevo Airport bombing (2011), 66, 67
Donetsk, 34–42, 60
Dorodova, Zoya, 147
Dostoyevsky, Fyodor, 8, 20
drug problem, 176–77, 290–92
dry-cleaning businesses, 51–52
“dual faith,” 38
Dubai, 243
economic issues, xiii, xv, 11, 44, 49, 51, 67–68, 69, 96–97, 161, 175, 177–78, 186–87, 190–91, 195, 200, 203, 205, 207, 212, 238, 239–44, 245, 249–50, 254, 256–58, 262, 268–69, 271, 276, 283–85
education, 55, 240, 282–83
Egypt, 16, 70, 96, 161
Eiffel Tower, 46
Ekaterinburg, ix, 127, 163, 174–76, 185–89, 209, 210, 270, 289
ekskursiia (travel plans), 136–38
Elder, Miriam, 51–52
elections, 8–9, 171, 181, 199, 229–30, 241
Electoral College, U.S., 181
electric power, 54, 213
electronic tickets, 50–51, 53, 64, 72–73
Elena, 277
elevators, 102–3
e-mail, 234–35, 244
Embassy, U.S., 126
emigration, 281–82
employment, 51, 245, 254, 258, 262
“End of History?, The” (Fukuyama), xiii, xvi
endurance, 67–70, 82, 86–87, 93–95, 123, 130, 142–43, 157, 182–83, 187–88, 201–3, 207, 222–23, 233–34
“enemies of the people,” 48, 167
energy resources, xv, 8, 49, 178, 211
English Channel, 259
English language, 56, 57, 70, 105, 275, 277, 278, 280, 282, 291
entrepreneurship, 226–27
environmental issues, 255–64
espionage, 23–24, 56, 59, 124–27, 129, 152, 163, 285
Estonia, 8, 32, 76
ethnic minorities, 33, 34–42, 127–28, 143, 174, 266–67, 272, 283–84
ethnic Russians, 34–42
Eurasia, 243
Europe, Eastern, 33
Europe, Western, 33–34, 182, 220
European Court of Human Rights, 117
European Union (EU), 33
Eurovision, 135, 140, 149
“Everybody Wants to Rule the World,” 240
Everyday Stalinism (Fitzpatrick), 59
executions, 167, 222, 265
Exegi Monumentum (Pushkin), 14
exile, 46–47, 166–69, 211, 222–23, 256, 260, 263, 287–88
expatriates, 57
eye contact, 6
factories, 64–65, 90, 200, 276
family life, 34–44, 58–61, 74, 97–98 102–113, 135–36, 204, 231, 255–56, 279
Far East, 270, 273
fatalism, 67–70, 82, 86–87, 93–95, 123, 130, 142–43, 157, 182–83, 187–88, 201–3, 207, 222–23, 233–34
fear, 124–27, 128, 151–52, 158, 163, 165, 168, 172, 234–37, 249–50, 251, 265, 285
Fey, Tina, 135
Fiddler on the Roof, 273
Figes, Orlando, 67, 166, 203, 264–65
fines, 225–27
fire escapes, 225, 227, 228
fireworks, 140–41
first class, 48–49
first names, 65
“First Poet,” 14
Fitzpatrick, Sheila, 59
5–A prisoners, 106
Flintoff, Corey, 170
folklore, 11, 38–39, 83–84, 90, 91
forced relocations, 50, 272–73, 283–84
“foreign agents,” 117, 170, 265
Foreign Policy, 13
foreign travel, 70, 240, 281–82
forest rangers, 118–19
Fox and Goose pub, 207
freedom, xv, 212–13, 222–23, 263–65
free speech, xv, 212–13
French Press Agency, 262
“friends,” 124–27, 128, 151–52, 158, 163, 165, 168, 172
friendship, 39, 58–61, 115, 119–20, 204, 205, 239, 274–76, 280, 283–84
frostbite, 233–34
FSB, 124–27, 129, 152, 163, 285
Fukuyama, Francis, xiii, xvi
Furtuna, Florentina, 226
Fyodorov, Roman, 40
Gaddy, Clifford, 50, 96, 211–12
Gadhafi, Mu’ammar, 235
Gagarin, Yuri, 157
gangs, 159–62, 176–84, 226
Garrels, Anne, 190–91
gay and lesbian rights, xv, 182
gay marriage, 182
General Electric, 271
Generalissimo (Karpov), 263–64
generosity, 3–6, 17, 20, 27, 36–37, 84–85, 100, 102–3, 122–23, 128–33, 237–38
geography, 47, 64–65, 210
Georgia, xv, 57–61, 173, 284
Germany, 108, 155, 211
Gia, 58–61, 118, 181, 284
God, 195, 197
Gogol, Nikolai, 9, 12
Golden Eagle train, 48–49
Goldstein, Marissa, 61
gondolas, 247
Gorbachev, Mikhail, 20, 182, 241, 288–89
Gordeyeva, Tatyana, 159
Gorodilov, Andrei, 159–62, 172, 174–89, 199, 227, 228, 230, 237–38, 268, 270, 279
Gorodilov, Viktor, 160, 177–79, 210
gosudarstvo (state), 15
government, xv, 117, 119, 127–28, 144, 165–72, 178, 183, 199–200, 203–4, 208, 229–30, 236, 240–42, 249–50, 259–68, 271, 279, 280, 283, 284, 289, 290
Grachev, Andrei, 288–89
Granovskaya, Olga, 234–35, 236, 244, 248, 279–85, 286, 287
Granovsky, Dmitry, 279–85, 286, 287
Great Britain, 117, 249, 263
green cards, 282
Greene, David:
American nationality of, 124, 181–84, 277, 286–87
childhood of, 8, 38, 61
democracy as viewed by, 181, 205, 225–26, 240–41, 269
documents of, 44, 51–52, 76–77, 124–25, 151–52, 189–90, 209, 210, 217–18, 227
finances of, 43
at Harvard, 214
interviews by, 108–10, 119, 134–50, 136, 152, 154–57, 229–30, 234–37, 250, 251, 259–61; see also specific individuals
Jewish background of, 33, 281
as journalist, 32, 35–36, 38, 41–42, 43, 67, 78–79, 108–10, 113, 123–24, 126, 142, 151–52, 205, 234–37, 238, 266–67
in Lancaster, Pa., 220
luggage of, 25 35, 121, 168, 172, 187–88, 189, 252, 253, 259–60
map for travels of, x–xi
in Moscow, 8, 10–11, 19–20, 21, 23–24, 25, 55–57, 122–25
mother’s death and, 38
as NPR Moscow bureau chief, 8, 10–11, 19–20, 21, 23–24, 25, 33, 34–36, 40, 50, 55, 94–95, 97, 105, 109–10, 126, 145, 235, 275
passport of, 124, 217–18
Pittsburgh, Pa., as hometown of, 8, 79, 80, 102, 121, 190
press credentials of, 126
registration process for, 151–52, 189–90
as Russian resident, xvii, 8, 19–24, 32–33, 57, 76–77, 278–79
Russian studied by, 33, 124, 125, 163
security surveillance of, 124–27, 128, 151–52, 158, 163, 165, 168, 172
Sergei Sotnikov as translator for, 34–36, 55–56, 58, 63, 65, 83–91, 145–50, 154–55, 163–64, 165, 224, 250, 274–76
Ukraine visited by, 33–42
U.S. politics covered by, 41–42
visas for, 189–90, 209, 210, 217–18, 227
Greenpeace, 261
Grigoryev, Andrei, 118–19
Grom, 106
Gross, Terry, 156
Gudkov, Lev, 264–65
gulag prison camps, 47, 67–69, 89–91, 106–7, 109, 166–69, 222, 272
Gun, The (Chivers), 156
Guriev, Sergei, 96
Harding, Luke, 126
Harvard University, 214
health care, 32, 97–98, 116, 128–33, 144, 182, 282
heating, 54, 162, 213
heli-skiing, 242–43
“Hero,” 285
heroin, 290–92
“herring under a fur coat,” 198
Hidden World of Girls, The, 135
Hill, Fiona, 50, 96, 211–12
HIV, 290–92
hockey, 65–67, 73, 77–91
Holocaust, 108–9, 119
“Holy Fatherland,” 13
hooliganism, 160
Hoover Dam, 250
horse sausage, 130, 132, 157
hospitality, 3–6, 17, 20, 27, 36–37, 84–85, 100, 102–3, 122–23, 128–33, 237–38
hospitals, 97–98, 116
Hotel Rybinsk, 76–77, 83
hotels, 76–77, 83, 152, 216–32, 240, 276–78
Hotel Tranquility, 215–32
hovercraft, 256, 259–60
human rights, 156, 165–72, 186, 269
Hungary, 8, 33
Hunger Games, The, 80
hunting, 118–19
hydroelectric power, 68–69, 246, 248, 250–51
“Hymn to the Great City, The,” 45
Hyundai Hotel, 276–78
icicles, 87, 92
Ilona, 63–64, 70–71, 72
Ilya, 115, 119–20
“Image of Dual Russia, The” (Tucker), 15–16
immigration, 77, 189–90, 209, 245, 254
immigration cards, 77
individual rights, 13–14, 96, 165–72, 180–81, 186, 269–70, 287
industrialization, 50, 68–69, 80, 83, 90, 190, 200, 219, 276
Ingushetia, 66
insurance, 30
Interior Ministry, Soviet, 168
internal security, 23–24, 56, 73, 92–94, 97, 124–27, 128, 129, 151–52, 163, 165, 168, 172, 230, 234–37, 248, 250, 285
Internet, 73, 160, 161, 192, 194, 217, 255, 261
interrogations, 113–20
intimidation, 124–27, 128, 151–52, 158, 163, 165, 168, 172, 234–37, 249–50, 251, 265, 285
Ioffe, Julia, 13
iPads, 55
iPhones, 122, 162, 232, 245
iPods, 123, 125
Ira, 102, 121, 122
Irkutsk, 223, 229–30, 252, 255–59, 271
iron industry, 190
Ishim, 214–32, 233, 289
Islamic fundamentalism, 44, 66–67, 98
Israel, 272–73
Ivan IV “the Terrible,” Czar of Russia, 203
Izhevsk, ix, 28, 30, 123, 124–25, 138, 150, 151–58, 163, 164
Japan, 218–19, 281
jelly beans, 245
Jewish Autonomous Region, 272–73, 274
Jews, 33, 58, 108–9, 272–73, 274, 281
Jolie, Angelina, 160, 178
justice system, 109–20, 122, 153, 165–72, 176–84, 187, 225–27, 265
Kalashnikov, Mikhail, 123–24, 154
Kalashnikov, Viktor, 154–57
Kalashnikov AK-47 assault rifle, 150, 151–58, 184
Kalashnikov museum, 138, 150–54
Kaliningrad, 108–10
Kamerzan, Alexei, 239–44, 270
karaoke, 133, 142, 150, 277–78
Karash, Yuri, 157
Karpov, Vladimir, 263–64
Kashin, Oleg, 236, 248
Kate, 290
Kazakhstan, 168, 189–90, 191, 209, 210, 289
KGB, 20, 124, 235
Khabarovsk, 254
Khariv, Inna, 268, 273, 284
Khodorkovsky, Mikhail, 49, 119
Khrushchev, Nikita, 169, 241
Kichilin, Ivan, 196–207, 208, 210, 239, 244, 268, 270
kidnapping, 114–15
Kiev, xiv, 34, 40, 288
Kindle readers, 55
kiosks, 83
Kirpinyova, Lyudmila, 108–9
Kissinger, Henry, xiii
Kitchen Sisters, 135
Klyukin, Liubov, 85–91
Klyukin, Nikita, 77–91, 208
Klyukin, Sergei, 86–91
Komarov, Sergei, 245–51
Kommersant, 236
kommunalka (communal apartments), 59–60, 118, 181
Kondrashov, Viktor, 229–30
Koneva, Galina, 139, 141–42, 143, 147–49
Kontinental Hockey League (KHL), 78, 85
Kowalski, Stanley, 47
Krasnoyarsk, 245–51, 252
kvartira (apartment), 85
Kyrgyzstan, 32, 190, 266–67
labor camps, 46, 47, 49, 67–69, 89–91, 106–7, 109, 166–69, 222, 272
Lada automobile, 192, 259
Lake Baikal, ix, 47, 173, 233, 252, 255–64, 270
Lake Tahoe, 255
Lally, Kathy, 144
Lancaster, Pa., 220
landlords, 84–85
Latvia, 8
lavatories, 54, 72, 159
leadership, xiii–xiv, 8–9, 10, 11–17, 32, 51, 119, 140, 161–62, 180–81, 199–200, 203–4, 208, 238, 249–50, 263–69, 283–85, 288–89
Lebanese-Americans, 20, 21
Lebanon, 240
Lenin, V. I., 16, 219
Leningrad, Siege of, 262–63
Leningradsky Voksal, 28
Levada Center, 264–65
Libya, xv, 16, 96, 161
life expectancy, 144
Listvyanka, 256–57
literacy, 55
Lithuania, 8, 108
Litvinenko, Aleksandr, 89
Lokomotiv hockey team, 65–67, 73, 77–91
London Telegraph, 38–39
lower berths, 63, 98–99, 101, 212–13, 231–32
Lubyanka prison, 124
luggage, 25 35, 121, 168, 172, 187–88, 189, 252, 253, 259–60
Luna bars, 100
Lupolova, Praskovia, 246–47
L’viv, 33
Macmillen, Dmitri, 90
Magnitigorsk Metallurg hockey team, 81
Maria, 43
Marina, 135–58, 220
marriage, 182, 219, 231, 243
Marriott hotels, 76, 240
Marshall University, 65
Marxism, 16
Maxim, 184
Maxim, 39, 40
McCafe, 75
McDonald’s restaurants, 73–74
media coverage, xv, 23–24, 159, 160, 161, 179, 182, 187, 191, 228, 261, 269
medicine, 32, 97–98, 116
Medvedev, Dmitri, 8
Melikov, Aleksandr, 118
Memorial, 165–72, 242
men, 199, 206–7
menorahs, 274
menus, 74–75, 99–100
Merridale, Catherine, 203
metal detectors, 73, 92–94
meteorite landing (2013), 188, 192–97, 206, 268, 281, 289
Meyers, Steven Lee, 68
middle class, 96–97, 105, 242
Middle East, 16
migrant workers, 46, 245, 254
Mikhail (factory worker), 200
Mikhail (restaurant diner), 277–78
Mikheyev, Alexei, 110–20, 122, 208, 284
Mikheyeva, Lyudmila, 113, 114, 116, 118, 119–20, 208
Mikhovich, Fyodor, 263
military service, 98, 120, 201–2, 204, 207, 255, 276, 280
minisubs, 258, 261–62
Minsk, 127
mirrors, 39
Mr. Putin (Hill and Gaddy), 96
mobile phones, 178
Mologa, 68–69, 90
Moscow, ix, 8, 10–11, 19–20, 21, 23–32, 36, 43, 44–45, 46, 48–49, 55–60, 64, 75, 92, 95, 122–25, 176, 199, 203, 207–8, 211, 212, 238, 242, 257, 261, 275
Moscow State University, 75
murder, 110–20
museums, 220–24
music, 134–35
Nadezhda, 216–32, 244, 248, 269
Napoleon I, Emperor of France, 211
Natalya (drug addict), 290–91<
br />
Natalya (Rose’s friend), 239, 243
National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), 157
National Hockey League (NHL), 82, 85
national identity, 33, 49, 127–28, 143, 202, 266–67
National Public Radio (NPR), 8, 10–11, 19–20, 21, 23–24, 25, 33, 34–36, 40, 50, 55, 94–95, 97, 105, 109–10, 126, 145, 235, 275
natural disasters, 228–29
natural gas, 8, 178
Nazi Germany, 108, 155, 211
Nazism, 108
nerpa (seal), 256–57
nerpinariums, 257
New Republic, 13
New Year’s Eve, 140–41
New York, N.Y., 19–21, 22
City Council of, 19
New Yorker, 13, 25–26
New York Times, 159, 186
Nicholas I, Czar of Russia, 14, 222
nightlife, 55–57
Nikitenko, Anna, 29–32
9–A prisoners, 106
9–B prisoners, 106
Nizhny Novgorod, 5, 28, 30, 97, 102–22, 123, 270, 284
No. 2 Rossiya train, 45, 274
No. 8 train car, 52–53
No. 19 train car, 244–45
No. 44 train car, 252–53
No. 240 train, 50–51, 62
No Place to Call Home (Kowalski), 47
North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO), xv, xvi, 235
North Caucasus region, 44, 66, 98, 200, 201–2
North Korea, 173, 276–77, 281
nostalgia, 262–68, 284, 286
Novosibirsk, 231–44, 270
Novotelnov, Nikolai, 68–69
NPR News, 8, 10–11, 19–20, 21, 23–24, 25, 33, 34–36, 40, 50, 55, 94–95, 97, 105, 109–10, 126, 145, 235, 275
nuclear weapons, 45, 190
obesity, 144
oil, 8
Oka River, 102
Oksana, 217
Oleg (taxicab driver), 192–96, 207
Oleg (train companion), 214
Olga, 43
oligarchy, 48–49
omul (fish), 256–57
“one for the road,” 39, 42
onion domes, 220
opinion polls, 161–62, 264–65
optimism, 182–83, 287
Orange Revolution, 40, 41–42, 288
Orient Express, 50
Orlov, Dima, 78–83, 270
orphanages, 167–68
Ozernoy, Maryanne, 51
pagan customs, 38
Palin, Sarah, 173
paper mills, 258, 262
paranoia, 124–27, 128, 151–52, 158, 163, 165, 168, 172
passenger lists, 53
passports, 44, 59, 76–77, 124, 217–18
Paulina, 290
Pavel (Sergei’s cousin), 104, 110–11, 121–22
Pavel (veterinarian), 199–200
peasantry, 15–16
pedestrian malls, 207, 209
pelmeni (dumplings), 37
penal colonies, 49, 119
pensions, 42, 117, 268
perestroika, 188, 249
Perm, 127, 163, 164–72, 242
pervy droog (first friend), 60, 61
Peter I “the Great,” Czar of Russia, 13–14, 103, 106, 107
