Midnight in Siberia: A Train Journey into the Heart of Russia

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Midnight in Siberia: A Train Journey into the Heart of Russia Page 29

by David Greene


  Pew Research Center, 161–62

  Pichonkin, Sergei, 203

  pillows, 252–53

  Pinsker, Sofia, 203

  Pintayev, Valery, 258

  pirozhki (stuffed pies), 163–64, 172–73

  Pittsburgh, Pa., 8, 79, 80, 102, 121, 190

  Pittsburgh Penguins, 79, 80

  “Poets and Czars: From Pushkin to Putin, the Sad Tale of Democracy in Russia” (Shishkin), 13–16

  pokhmelye (hangover), 112

  Poland, 8, 33, 108

  police, 109–20, 122, 124–25, 159–62, 176–84, 187, 192, 205, 247

  political change, 13–17, 35–36, 51, 182–83, 204, 208, 212–13, 227, 228–30, 238–44, 249–50, 265, 267–72, 282–89

  political crimes, 48, 106–7, 167–68

  “Political History of Russian Bureaucracy and Roots of Its Power “ (Ozernoy and Samsonova), 51

  political opposition, xvi, 8–9, 14–15, 49, 69, 87, 89, 95–97, 105, 165–72, 183, 199–200, 204, 208, 228–30, 234–37, 238, 239–44, 256–64, 268–69, 279, 288–89

  political philosophy, 282–83

  political repression, 11–15, 32, 47–48, 49, 109–20, 165–72, 199, 234–37, 263–65

  Politkovskaya, Anna, 89

  pollution, 190, 255–58

  population, 210, 220, 282–83

  poverty, 195, 203, 262

  Prague, 250

  prayers, 38

  Previte, Rose, 7–8, 19–24, 26, 31, 32–33, 55, 57, 74, 84, 86, 92, 93–94, 99, 102, 122, 125, 127, 140–42, 159–61, 174, 175, 189, 193, 205, 207–8, 219, 225–26, 227, 231, 233–59, 275, 279, 285, 292

  prison camps, 46, 47, 49, 67–69, 89–91, 106–7, 109, 166–69, 222, 272

  prisons, 118–19, 169

  privatization, 49, 239–40

  produktys (minimarts), 64

  professors, 282–83

  prosecutors, 170

  provodnik (conductors), 52, 72–73, 164, 213, 252–53, 274

  Prussia, 108

  public assembly, 170

  public opinion, xv–xvi, 8–9, 66–67, 81, 87, 89, 161–62, 199–200, 208, 228–30, 239–44, 264–65

  public transportation, 26, 122–23, 185, 187–92

  Pugachyoya, Natalia, 147

  Pushkin, Alexander, 14, 15

  Putin, Vladimir:

  authoritarian rule of, xiii–xiv, 10, 40, 42, 69, 165–72, 180–81, 208, 235, 264–65

  Bush’s summit with, 20

  Crimean crisis and, xiii–xvi

  democracy as viewed by, 180–81

  economic policies of, 44, 69, 96–97, 190–91, 238, 239–44, 249–50, 268–69

  human rights record of, 165–72

  leadership of, xiii–xiv, 8–9, 180–81, 238, 249–50, 264–65, 268–69

  minisubmarine ride of, 258, 261–62

  opposition to, xvi, 8–9, 14–15, 49, 69, 87, 89, 95–97, 105, 165–72, 183, 199–200, 228–30, 234–37, 238, 239–44, 256–64, 268–69

  physical appearance of, 34

  popular support for, xv–xvi, 8–9, 66–67, 81, 87, 89, 199–200, 208, 228–30, 239–44, 264–65

  public image of, xiii–xvi, 8–9, 165–72, 228–29, 258, 261–62

  reelection of, 8–9, 181, 199, 241

  Stalin compared with, 69, 169, 208, 235, 264–65

  terrorism policies of, 66–67, 81, 87, 89

  Pyatchenko, Valentina, 140, 145, 149

  Pyongyang Café, 276–78

  Queen Elizabeth II, 50

  queuing (lining up), 21–22

  racial discrimination, 44, 176

  racial profiling, 44

  Radisson hotels, 76

  “railway to nowhere,” 47–48

  Rancour-Laferriere, Daniel, 130

  rape, 114–15

  reading, 55

  Reagan, Ronald, 20

  real estate, 263, 280

  Red Army, 104, 255, 289

  Red Arrow train, 45

  refugees, 266–67

  regional governments, xv, 127–28, 266–67

  rehab programs, 290–92

  religion, xiv, 38–39, 63, 68, 90, 143, 220–22

  repression, 11–15, 32, 47–48, 49, 109–20, 165–72, 199, 234–37, 263–65

  reservoirs, 68–69

  restaurants, 55–57, 73–76, 99–100, 207–8, 233

  Reuters, 265

  revolution, 14, 15, 16, 97, 171–72, 180, 222–23, 250, 256, 260, 263, 287–89

  Richardson, Paul E., 46

  Riss, Eli, 273

  Robert, 169–72

  roll-aboard suitcases, 25, 35, 52, 121, 187–88, 189, 252, 276

  Roman, 261–62

  roses, 83–84, 91

  Rossiiskie Zheleznye Dorogi (Russian Railways), 29–31, 52–53, 65, 80

  rubles, 29, 122, 216, 283

  rules and regulations, 225–28

  rural areas, 11, 97, 195, 200–201, 210, 228–29, 237–38

  Russia:

  apartments in, 5, 27, 84–85, 102–3, 200, 280

  apathy in, 15–17, 108–10, 117–20, 260–64

  armed forces of, 98, 120, 201–2, 204, 207, 255, 276, 280

  arrests and imprisonments in, 94, 109–20, 159–62, 177–78, 210

  Asian region of, 46, 127–28, 162, 173, 220, 240, 243, 245

  authoritarianism in, xiii–xiv, xv, 9, 10, 14, 35, 40, 42, 69, 165–72, 180–81, 208, 212–13, 235, 264–65

  author’s residence in, xvii, 8, 19–24, 32–33, 57, 76–77, 278–79

  bars in, 207–8

  borders of, 48, 266–67

  building construction in, 84–85, 102–3

  bureaucracy of, 15–16, 29–30, 51, 65, 86, 89, 271, 283

  bus transportation in, 122–23, 185, 187–92

  chaos vs. order in, 14, 27, 29, 67, 96, 189, 226, 246–47, 265, 267–69, 278–79, 283–84, 287

  civil liberties in, 13–14, 96, 165–72, 180–81, 186, 269–70, 287

  clothing in, 5, 102, 142, 233–34

  constitution of, 170

  corruption in, 11, 35, 40, 49, 169, 178, 183, 192, 225–27, 230, 240, 249–50, 252, 264, 265, 269

  court system of, 118

  Crimea crisis and, xiii–xvi, 33–34

  crime in, 159–62, 176–84, 226

  cuisine of, 4, 100, 104, 163–64, 178–79, 198, 256–57; see also specific dishes

  cultural traditions of, xvi, xvii, 9, 11, 12, 21, 32, 35, 38–39, 49, 51, 69–70, 74–75, 83–84, 90, 91, 121, 200–203, 207–8, 240–41, 273, 275–76, 284–89

  czarist, 11, 13–16, 221, 222–23, 256, 260, 263, 287–88

  dangerous situations in, 87, 92, 140–41, 172

  democracy in, xiii, xvi, 8, 9, 11, 13–15, 20, 33, 40, 41–42, 69, 159–89, 205, 225–26, 229–30, 239, 240–42, 249–50, 265, 268–70, 282–85, 288–89

  documentation in, 44, 51–52, 76–77, 124–25, 151–52, 175, 189–90, 209, 210, 217–18, 227

  drug problem in, 176–77, 290–92

  economy of, xiii, xv, 11, 44, 49, 51, 69, 96–97, 161, 175, 177–78, 186–87, 190–91, 195, 200, 203, 205, 207, 212, 238, 239–44, 245, 249–50, 254, 256–58, 262, 268–69, 271, 276, 283–85

  education in, 55, 240, 282–83

  elections in, 8–9, 171, 181, 199, 229–30, 241

  emigration from, 281–82

  employment in, 51, 245, 254, 258, 262

  endurance and survival in, 67–70, 82, 86–87, 93–95, 123, 130, 142–43, 157, 182–83, 187–88, 201–3, 207, 222–23, 233–34

  energy resources of, xv, 8, 49, 178, 211

  environmental issues in, 255–64

  espionage activities in, 23–24, 56, 124–27, 129, 152, 163, 285

  ethnic minorities in, 33, 34–42, 127–28, 143, 174, 266–67

  European influence in, 33–34, 220

  European region of, 46, 127–28, 162, 173, 220, 243, 245

  expatriates in, 57

  factories in, 90, 200, 276

  family life in, 34–44, 58–60, 74, 97–98 102–113, 135–36, 204,
231, 255–56, 279

  fear and intimidation in, 124–27, 128, 151–52, 158, 163, 165, 168, 172, 234–37, 249–50, 251, 265, 285

  flag of, 274

  folklore of, 11, 38–39, 83–84, 90, 91

  “foreign agents” in, 117, 170, 265

  foreign relations of, xv–xvi, 13, 165, 170

  foreign travel and, 70, 240, 281–82

  freedom in, xv, 212–13, 222–23, 263–65

  free speech in, xv, 212–13

  friendship in, 39, 58–61, 115, 119–20, 204, 205, 239, 274–76, 280, 283–84

  future trends in, 271–72, 273, 286–89

  gangs in, 159–62, 176–84, 226

  gay and lesbian rights in, xv, 182

  generations in, 17, 32, 82, 103, 105, 109, 188, 196–207, 240–44, 270, 271–72, 273, 284–85, 287, 288

  geography of, 47, 64–65, 210

  government of, xv, 117, 119, 127–28, 144, 165–72, 178, 183, 199–200, 203–4, 208, 229–30, 236, 240–42, 249–50, 259–68, 271, 279, 280, 283, 284, 289, 290

  health care in, 32, 97–98, 116, 128–33, 144, 182, 282

  history of, xiii–xiv, xvi, xvii, 10, 11–16, 32, 89–91, 106–9, 135, 179–83, 212, 220–24, 270, 273, 284–89

  hospitality in, 3–6, 17, 20, 27, 36–37, 84–85, 100, 102–3, 122–23, 128–33, 237–38

  human rights record of, 156, 165–72, 186, 269

  immigration to, 77, 189–90, 209, 245, 254

  industrialization of, 80, 83, 90, 190, 200, 219, 276

  internal security of, 23–24, 56, 73, 92–94, 97, 124–27, 128, 129, 151–52, 163, 165, 168, 172, 230, 234–37, 248, 250, 285

  international reputation of, 165–72, 186, 269

  interrogations in, 113–20

  Jewish community in, 33, 272–73, 274, 281

  justice system of, 109–20, 122, 153, 165–72, 176–84, 187, 225–27, 265

  laws of, 153, 225–27, 265

  leadership of, xiii–xiv, 8–9, 15–17, 32, 119, 161–62, 180–81, 199–200, 203–4, 208, 238, 249–50, 264–65, 268–69

  life expectancy in, 144

  maps of, x–xi, 65

  media coverage in, xv, 23–24, 159, 160, 161, 179, 182, 187, 191, 228, 261, 269

  men in, 199, 206–7

  middle class in, 96–97, 105, 242

  migrant workers in, 46, 245, 254

  military service in, 98, 120, 201–2, 204, 207, 255, 276, 280

  national identity of, 33, 49, 127–28, 143, 202, 266–67

  navy of, xiv

  nightlife in, 55–57

  official vs. popular, 15–16, 96–97, 202–3

  oligarchy in, 48–49

  opinion polls in, 161–62, 264–65

  parliament of, 171, 289

  peasantry of, 15–16

  penal colonies in, 49, 119

  police in, 109–20, 122, 124–25, 159–62, 176–84, 187, 192, 205, 247

  political change in, 13–17, 35–36, 51, 182–83, 204, 208, 212–13, 227, 228–30, 238–44, 249–50, 265, 267–72, 282–89

  political opposition in, xvi, 8–9, 14–15, 49, 69, 87, 89, 95–97, 105, 165–72, 183, 199–200, 204, 208, 228–30, 234–37, 238, 239–44, 256–64, 268–69, 279, 288–89

  pollution in, 190, 255–58

  population of, 210, 220, 282–83

  poverty in, 195, 203, 262

  prison camps in, 46, 49, 222

  prisons in, 118–19, 169

  protests in, 95–97, 105, 170–72, 204, 208, 242, 279, 288–89

  public attitude in, 6–7, 20, 25–26, 98, 122–23

  public opinion in, xv–xvi, 8–9, 66–67, 81, 87, 89, 161–62, 199–200, 208, 228–30, 239–44, 264–65

  racial discrimination in, 44, 176

  railroads of, see Trans-Siberian Railway

  real estate development in, 263, 280

  regional governments of, xv, 127–28, 266–67

  religion in, xiv, 38–39, 63, 68, 90, 143, 220–22

  repression in, 11–15, 49, 109–20, 165–72, 199, 234–37

  restaurants in, 55–57, 73–76, 99–100, 207–8, 233

  revolution in, 14, 15, 16, 97, 171–72, 180, 222–23, 250, 256, 260, 263, 287–89

  rules and regulations in, 225–28

  rural areas of, 11, 97, 195, 200–201, 210, 228–29, 237–38

  Slavic majority of, 128, 202

  small businesses in, 225–27, 249–50, 269, 271

  social conditions of, 15–16, 97, 202–3, 238–39, 249–50, 279

  Soviet Union compared with, 11–15, 49, 51, 56, 95–97, 117–18, 165, 171, 181, 200, 235–37, 262–68, 282, 284

  stability of, 14, 27, 29, 35–36, 51, 67, 96, 182–83, 189, 226, 246, 265, 267–69, 278–79, 283–84, 287

  status in, 30–31

  stereotypes of, 51, 68, 109–10, 190

  Supreme Court of, 118

  terrorism in, 44, 66–67, 81, 87, 89, 94

  time zones in, 28

  torture in, 115–20, 122

  tourism in, 246–47, 255–56

  transit visas in, 189–90, 209, 210, 217–18, 227

  “two Russias” concept of, 15–16, 96–97, 202–3

  Ukraine’s relations with, xiii–xvi, 40–42, 69

  urban areas of, 11, 97, 200–201, 234, 239–40

  U.S. compared with, 94, 205, 269, 286, 289

  U.S. relations with, xiii–xiv, 8, 9, 14–15, 20, 82, 170, 267, 281, 286, 290

  villages in, 195, 210, 228–29, 238

  wealth in, 11, 12, 32, 48–49, 56–57, 96–97, 200, 203, 238–44, 269, 270

  weather in, 19, 35, 173, 211, 217, 233–34

  Western culture in, xiii–xv, xvi, 13–15, 33, 75, 105, 185, 270, 282–85, 286

  women in, 102, 104, 143–50, 178, 225–26, 245, 256

  see also Soviet Union

  Russia Beyond the Headlines, 288

  “Russian ark,” 14

  Russian language, 23, 24, 27, 33, 40, 42, 52–53, 55–56, 93, 123, 124, 125, 163

  Russian Myths (Warner), 38

  Russian Orthodox Church, xiv, 38–39, 63, 68, 90, 143, 220–22

  Russian Railways (Rossiiskie Zheleznye Dorogi), 29–31, 52–53, 65, 80

  Russians, The (Smith), xvi–xvii

  “Russian soul,” 69–70

  Rutskaya, Zhanna, 100

  Ruvinskaya, Anna, 226

  Rybinsk, 68–69, 73, 76, 77–78, 83–91, 92

  Ryzhak, Boris, 22–24

  Sagra, 159–62, 172, 174–84, 185, 186, 187, 195, 199, 237–38, 268, 270, 279

  St. Petersburg, 28, 43, 45, 64, 221, 260, 262–63

  salaries, 282–83

  salo (cured pig lard), 178–79

  samovars, 213

  Samsonova, Tatiana, 51

  sanatoriy (health complex), 128–33, 220

  Savchenkova, Tatiana, 220–24

  scientific research, 157, 262–63

  second class, 55, 64, 98, 216

  security checkpoints, 73, 92–94, 97, 109, 119

  shaking hands, 39

  shapka (hat), 52

  Sharm-el-Sheikh, 70

  Sheremetyevo International Airport, 21–22

  Shishkin, Mikhail, 9, 13–16, 32, 48, 97, 288

  Shkliayeva, Ekaterina, 147

  shooting ranges, 153–54

  shower caps, 153, 154

  Siberia, 46–50, 173, 210–24, 230–34, 244–45, 255–58; see also Trans-Siberian Railway

  Siberian Curse, The (Hill and Gaddy), 50, 211–12

  Sicilian-Americans, 20, 21

  skiing, 242–43, 247, 270

  ski lifts, 247

  Skorobogatova, Polina, 194–95

  slag, 36

  slavery, 32

  Slave Soul of Russia, The (Rancour-Laferriere), 130

  Slavic majority, 128, 202

  sleeping accommodations, 216, 252–53

  slippers, 85

  Small Business Administration, U.S., 226

  small businesses, 225–27, 249–50, 269, 271

  “Sma
ll Business in Russia: Drowning in a Sea of Giants” (Furtuna and Ruvinskaya), 226

  Smith, Hedrick, xvi–xvii

  Smith, Tom Robb, 124

  “smoke detectors,” 24

  smoking, 54, 55, 144

  snowboarding, 242–43

  social conditions, 15–16, 97, 202–3, 238–39, 249–50, 279

  socialism, 208, 249, 268

  solyanka (beef soup), 271

  Sotnikov, Anton, 43, 97–98, 207, 255, 276

  Sotnikov, Nikolai, 36–42

  Sotnikov, Sergei, 3, 4, 22–45, 52, 55–59, 62–65, 73, 76, 78, 79, 83–91, 97–98, 99, 100–127, 145–50, 154–55, 163–64, 165, 224, 250, 274–76, 279

  Sotnikova, Tania, 43–44, 97, 104, 105, 255, 276

  South Korea, 175, 276

  Soviet Union:

  apartments assigned in, 200

  armed forces of, 104, 255, 289

  arrests in, 167–68, 265

  attempted coup in (1991), 288–89

  authoritarianism in, 58, 266–67

  borders of, 255

  bureaucracy of, 15–16, 51, 93, 140

  collapse of, xiii, 8, 11, 29, 60, 69, 70, 95, 145, 161–62, 239–40, 268–69, 281–82, 286, 288–89

  communal apartments in, 59–60, 118, 181

  Communist rule in, xiii, 10, 11–12, 15–16, 32, 109, 140, 229, 263, 284–85, 288–89

  deportation and exile in, 46–47, 166–69, 211

  economy of, 67–68, 200

  employment in, 51

  “enemies of the people” in, 48, 167

  espionage in, 59

  ethnic minorities in, 267–68, 272, 283–84

  evictions in, 167

  executions in, 167, 222, 265

  factories in, 64–65

  family life in, 58–61, 135–36

  forced relocations in, 50, 272–73, 283–84

  gulag prison camps in, 47, 67–69, 89–91, 106–7, 109, 166–69, 222, 272

  history of, 106–9

  housing built in, 103

  hydroelectric power in, 68–69

  industrialization of, 50, 68–69, 200

  Jewish community in, 58, 108–9, 272–73

  leadership of, 10, 11–16, 51, 140, 263–68, 283–85, 288–89

  military service in, 255

  nostalgia for, 262–68, 284, 286

  nuclear weapons of, 45, 190

  political crimes in, 48, 106–7, 167–68

  rehabilitation in, 168

  religion in, 38–39, 143, 220–22

  repression in, 11–12, 32, 47–48, 49, 117–18, 165, 166–69, 235–37, 263–65

  Russia compared with, 11–15, 49, 51, 56, 95–97, 117–18, 165, 171, 181, 200, 235–37, 262–68, 282, 284

  scientific research in, 157, 262–63

  space program of, 157

  Stalinism in, 46–48, 68–69, 89, 107, 166–69, 171, 208, 235, 263–68, 272, 283–84

 

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