Home Maintenance For Dummies, 2nd Edition

by Carey, James

  The toilet’s exterior surface

  Check the entire exterior surface of the toilet for hairline cracks. If you find any, the toilet needs to be replaced. Replacing a toilet may not be one of the most exciting ways to spend a Saturday, but then that’s the nice part about this particular project; you should be able to perform this little task and still have time to enjoy your afternoon.

  Gather the following tools:

  An open-ended wrench (1/4 inch or 3/8 inch)

  An adjustable wrench

  A pair of adjustable pliers

  A flathead screwdriver

  A hacksaw

  Then follow these steps to replace the toilet:

  1. Turn off the shut-off valve to the toilet (see Figure 8-4).

  Turn the valve that is located below and behind the toilet clockwise until it stops.

  Figure 8-4: Avoid a flood by turning off the water supply to the toilet.

  2. Disconnect the water-supply line.

  Flush the toilet and remove any water that may remain in the tank or bowl with a small cup and a sponge. After all the water has been removed, disconnect the water-supply line at the base of the tank; use adjustable pliers to turn the nut in a counterclockwise direction.

  3. Unfasten the toilet from the floor (see Figure 8-5).

  Most residential toilets are anchored to the floor with a couple of fasteners called closet bolts, which are concealed by plastic caps. Pry the caps off by wedging a flathead screwdriver between the bottom lip of the cap and the porcelain. Remove the nuts that remain with an open-ended wrench turning counterclockwise.

  Figure 8-5: Use a wrench to loosen the nuts that anchor the toilet to the floor.

  4. Remove the toilet and as much of the wax ring as you can (see Figure 8-6).

  We suggest that you have one other person help you lift the toilet and carry it out because it’s as awkward as it is heavy.

  Grasp the toilet by the rim and the underside of the tank and lift directly upward. Don’t be alarmed by the gooey mess on the floor where the toilet once sat. It’s some of the wax ring, which forms a seal between the toilet and the toilet flange that’s connected to the sewer. Use a putty knife to remove the wax that remains; doing so improves the odds of a new leakproof seal.

  Figure 8-6: The ring acts as a seal between the toilet and the flange. When reinstalling a toilet, make sure to remove as much of the old wax ring as possible for a good seal.

  5. Install the new toilet (see Figure 8-7).

  With the toilet lying on its side, install the new wax ring (sold separately) by placing it wax side up against the underside of the toilet. The wax ring will be slightly larger than the hole at the base of the toilet. Install new closet bolts (typically provided with the toilet) in the slots on the closet flange in an upright position, just as you found the old ones. Next, with the help of a friend, stand the toilet up and, without allowing the bottom to touch the floor, align the holes in the base of the toilet with the closet bolts, and then gently lower the toilet until it completely seats.

  Figure 8-7: Carefully place the toilet over the closet bolts and lower it onto the flange.

  6. Connect the closet bolts.

  Install the washers and nuts onto the closet bolts, being careful not to tighten them too tight, which could result in a broken toilet. Ugh! Then place the bolt caps over the nuts. If the bolt caps don’t properly seat, chances are that the bolts are too long. Shorten the bolts by cutting off the excess with a hacksaw.

  7. Install the water-supply line (see Figure 8-8).

  See “The shut-off valve at the wall,” earlier in this chapter, for instructions on removing and reconnecting a supply line.

  The easiest way to remember which direction tightens and which one loosens is the old axiom “righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.” Turning most threaded things right, or clockwise, tightens them (righty-tighty); turning them to the left, or counterclockwise, loosens them (lefty-loosey). There are exceptions to this rule — for example, left-handed threads on things that are used to secure things that also turn clockwise (like the blade on a table saw). So, if you run into a nut that just won’t give, before muscling it any more, try switching direction.

  Figure 8-8: Use a wrench to connect the water-supply line to the tailpiece of the toilet flush valve.

  Between the base of the toilet and the floor

  If water is seeping out between the base of the toilet and the floor, then the wax ring has failed. Remove the toilet (see the preceding section), replace the wax ring, and reinstall the toilet.

  Even if the floor is dry, if you have access to the area beneath the toilet (like in the basement or crawlspace.), occasionally check to see if the toilet has developed a hidden leak. Look for damp wood or evidence of dripping water. If you find this telltale evidence, replace the wax ring.

  Maintaining Tubs and Showers

  Most people make at least one trip a day to the tub or shower. We don’t know anyone who wants to perform a morning scrub-down in a mildew-lined fixture with a dangerously slippery floor. Our tub and shower tips show you how to easily maintain these fixtures so that your movie called Showering and Bathing will be a love story — not a horror flick.

  Keeping your tubs and showers clean

  How you clean your tub or shower depends on the material they’re made of:

  To clean a porcelain tub: Use the same methods described for cleaning vitreous surfaces (see the “Vitreous china fixtures” section, earlier in this chapter). You can also remove soap scum and dirt using automatic dishwasher detergent and hot water. Rinse with fresh water and towel-dry.

  To clean fiberglass: Use a mixture of 1/4 cup of salt mixed with 2 to 3 tablespoons of turpentine. Scrub the concoction onto the surface with a nylon bristle brush. Wipe up the excess with paper towels. Follow by washing with a mild detergent. Rinse with fresh water and towel-dry.

  To minimize major cleaning chores, try these tips:

  Apply a coat of lemon oil or a coat of car polish (but not both) to your tub, shower walls, and shower door. These products reduce surface tension and cause water and soap residue to drain off instead of sticking to a surface.

  Squeegee wet surfaces or wipe them dry with a towel after each use. It only takes a moment.

  Re-caulking

  If you have tile shower walls, there is a very good possibility that a leak could develop between the tile and the tub. As the house moves (a natural process that occurs in every home), a hairline crack can occur that allows water to get into the joint. Once water gets in, there is no telling how much damage can be done. That’s why it’s important to annually caulk the connection between your shower walls and the tub or shower pan.

  Here’s another good reason to re-caulk. If you’ve tried to remove the black mildew stains from caulk, you know it’s sometimes hopeless. That’s because the stains are often behind the caulk — between the caulk and the wall. The answer, of course, is to remove the caulk, kill the mildew, and then replace the caulk.

  To remove old caulk

  Removing what exists and then caulking from scratch are the way to go. Fortunately, removing the caulk isn’t as hard as it may seem.

  Caulk-Be-Gone and Adhesive & Caulk Remover are two commercial products that can assist you in the job. These products are specially formulated to soften caulk for easy removal.

  To remove caulk, simply apply a caulk remover and allow it to sit until the caulk has softened (it may take a few hours). Then remove the softened caulk with a plastic putty knife. Finish up by cleaning the joint with paint thinner and wiping the area dry with a clean rag.

  To get rid of mildew

  After you’ve removed the old caulk, you can get rid of mildew by cleaning the joint with our Easy Mildew Remover (see Chapter 20). Just spray the mixture onto the mildewed area. Let it sit until the black mildew turns white. Rinse with fresh water; then use a hair dryer to thoroughly dry the area. The joint can now be re-caulked.

  Although our Easy Mildew Remover mixtu
re is mild, don’t forget to wear gloves and eye protection and make sure the area is well ventilated.

  Improve the odds of preventing mildew from returning by wiping down the joint with denatured alcohol just before applying the new caulk.

  To apply new caulk

  For a professional-looking job, follow these steps:

  1. Apply blue painter’s masking tape to the tub 1/8 inch from the joint; then apply another strip of tape along the wall, 1/8 inch from the joint.

  Now the caulking will go between the two pieces of tape, making straight, smooth lines.

  2. Apply tub and tile caulk into the joint and smooth it with your finger, an old teaspoon, or a caulking spreader.

  3. Immediately remove the tape.

  Pull it out and away from the freshly caulked joint. Be careful not to touch the caulk.

  4. Let the caulk dry.

  Caulk can take varying amounts of time to dry, depending upon the type being used and the temperature and humidity in your home. In general, your best bet is to allow the caulk to dry overnight before getting it wet.

  You simply won’t believe how beautiful your job will look.

  Avoiding overflow leaks

  The tub overflow is the device located at the end of the tub just above the drain. It derives its name from the purpose it serves: preventing a tub from overflowing. Sometimes the overflow assembly holds the lever for a built-in drain stopper. (Sinks also have overflows — a hole beneath the front edge — but with sinks, the overflow is built in; no hardware is attached that can fail and leak.)

  What you see when you look at a tub overflow is a decorative metal cover. Behind the cover and on the outside surface of the tub is a gasket. Behind the gasket is the pipe that directs overflow into the sewer system. The two screws located in the overflow plate hold together the decorative cover plate, the overflow gasket, and the overflow pipe. When the screws become loose, the gasket can leak.

  To avoid leads, check the screws every year or two to ensure that they’re snug. If you overfill the tub and the gasket isn’t tight, it can leak behind the tub, causing problems that can be hard to detect.

  Chapter 9

  Plumbing, Part III: Sewer and Septic Systems

  In This Chapter

  Getting to know your sewer system

  Keeping your sewer or septic system running clog-free

  Eliminating the most common clogs

  Sanitation is one of the single most important systems in your home. A cracked window pane or a broken fence board can wait until you have time to make the necessary repair. However, when it comes to your sewer or septic system, time is of the essence. Think about it; what could be worse than a toilet that won’t flush, a sink that won’t drain, or an overflowing tub? Okay, a house fire is obviously more urgent, but beyond that you’ll be hard pressed to find a more time-sensitive maintenance emergency. So, kick up your feet and delve into this chapter before one of the kids calls out for help in the bathroom.

  Sewer-System Basics

  Every plumbing fixture in your home is joined by the same drainpipe — that means the kitchen sink, the dishwasher, the washing machine, the toilets, and so on. The waste from each of these fixtures exits the house through this one drainpipe. A problem caused by one fixture can easily become a problem for all the other fixtures.

  Your common, everyday household sanitary sewer system consists of three basic elements (see Figure 9-1):

  Figure 9-1: Your sewer system.

  The waste lines and drainpipe: The waste lines carry sewage from each of the fixtures in your home down through the walls and under the floor, and then outside the home to either a public sewer system beneath the street or a septic tank somewhere below ground on your property. A clog in any of these pipes stops waste from reaching its destination away from your home — and it can back up into your home.

  The vent pipes: Vent pipes travel from each plumbing fixture (or group of plumbing fixtures), upward (inside walls) and out through the roof. These pipes are the typically black ones that stick up out of your roof. The vents allow air into the sewer lines so that they drain freely. A clogged vent pipe can be a serious problem, preventing good drainage of waste.

  The p-traps: You have one of these traps in every fixture: sink, toilet, washing machine, you name it. If the fixture drains into the sewer system, the water or waste first travels through a p-trap. The trap allows water and waste to enter the sewer system while at the same time preventing sewer gases from backing up into your home. A clogged p-trap can inhibit the flow of waste from the home and can allow stinky gases to back up into the home through the fixtures.

  Keeping Your System Clog-Free

  When we were just a couple of youngsters, one of our dad’s favorite sayings was “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Dad was right — especially when it comes to the drain and sewer system. Trapping hair and soap scum in the tub or shower, using a lint filter at the clothes washer, and being careful about what you throw into the kitchen sink — including the garbage disposal — can prevent minor clogs that can cause major headaches and repairs. Take it from our dad and do everything you can to prevent a plumbing disaster. You can be a real hero and keep your home’s lower GI tract in tip-top shape by taking advantage of the following advice. Thanks, Dad!

  Being careful what you put down the drain

  One of the absolute best ways to prevent slow or clogged drains is to be careful about what you put into them. Clever, eh?

  Cooking grease, coffee grounds, hair, and soap scum are four of a drain’s biggest enemies. Do whatever you can to avoid introducing any of these items into a drain. Here’s how:

  Save cooking grease in an old coffee can or cardboard milk container. Then dispose of it in the trash.

  Throw coffee grounds away in the garbage or add them to your mulch pile.

  Use a screen or drain-grate to cover the drain’s opening and minimize problems with hair and soap scum. Stop by your local plumbing-supply store to study the choices appropriate for your particular fixture. Take along a picture of the drain system to better explain your needs. Most filters and screens can be simply laid in place.

  Preventive pipe cleaning

  Regular cleaning has its merits. To keep drains in your home running freely — and absent of odor — try these methods:

  Run hot water through the sink after each use. Hot water keeps oils in food products running down the drain, rather than building up on the interior surface of pipes, which can make drains sluggish and lead to clogs.

  Throw a handful of baking soda into the drain and follow it with hot water. Baking soda is a terrific cleaning agent, and it’s also great for absorbing foul odors and leaving your drain pipes smelling like a rose. Okay, maybe not like a rose, but a lot better than they otherwise would.

  Pour 1 cup of vinegar down the drain and let it sit for 30 minutes; then chase it down with very hot water. Vinegar is a wonder cleaner (as Chapter 20 explains). It contains acetic acid, which acts as an excellent organic solvent in removing organic buildup of crud in pipes.

  If clogging is a regular problem at your place, try this one out for size. It works on drains in sinks, showers, and tubs. You need 1/2 cup each of baking soda, salt, and vinegar and a couple quarts of boiling water. Just before going to bed (to allow the solution to sit overnight, giving it more cleaning horsepower), do the following:

  1. Pour the salt and the baking soda into the drain.

  2. Add the vinegar and let the concoction foam for about a minute.

  3. Chase with at least 2 quarts of boiling water.

  For additional tips on cleaning your sink, toilet, tub, and shower, turn to Chapter 8.