Home Maintenance For Dummies, 2nd Edition

by Carey, James

  Only banana peels should cause slips and falls on concrete

  If your concrete is clean, but it’s still slippery when wet, you should slightly etch the surface using a 25 percent solution of muriatic acid. The acid removes a very, very thin layer of cement, which exposes the sand in the concrete, creating a rougher surface. The finish is similar to medium- to fine-grit sandpaper.

  Simply pour the solution onto the concrete and let it stand for approximately 15 minutes before flushing the entire area with water. Allow the concrete to dry to determine if the new finish meets your expectations. More than one application may be required to achieve a coarser surface.

  Warning: Muriatic acid is dangerous stuff! Refer to “Plan B: Muriatic acid,” earlier in this chapter, for safety information you’ll need when working with muriatic acid.

  On steps, consider installing peel-and-stick, nonskid tread tape. You can purchase the tape by the foot in various widths at most home-improvement retailers. If the nonskid tread tape doesn’t appeal to you, consider the newest kid on the block: a nonskid material that can be painted onto a surface. The result is essentially the same. The main difference is that, with the painted-on variety, you can customize the size by using masking tape and applying the material within the perimeter of the tape.

  Got a small crack in a highly visible place? Using a masonry drill and a tube of clear or gray silicone caulk, you can easily mix up a concrete patching compound that will leave the crack virtually invisible. Follow these steps:

  1. Gather some concrete dust from your driveway.

  Find an out-of-the-way spot in your cracked patio or step, such as just below the grade. Place a small, flat, metal pan underneath where you plan to drill. Use a masonry drill bit to drill a hole in the hidden area, and collect the dust coming out of the hole.

  2. Apply a bead of caulk to the top of the crack you want to repair.

  3. While the caulk is still fresh, sprinkle the masonry dust over the crack and work it into the caulk with your finger.

  4. Sweep away the excess dust and — voilà! — no more crack!

  Sealing concrete

  Concrete is quite porous and acts like a sponge. When temperatures drop and concrete is wet, it can freeze, causing cracking and spalling (chipping). Rock salt used to melt snow is another primary source of deterioration of concrete.

  You can minimize this damage by periodically sealing the concrete with an acrylic or silicone-based concrete and masonry sealer. A liquid concrete sealer prevents water absorption by filling the pores of the concrete. A concrete sealer lasts for six months to a year, depending upon the quality of the material, surface preparation, and climate.

  Inexpensive “water seals” don’t offer the level of protection that some of the pricier products do. Moreover, poor-quality sealers need to be applied again and again, and can end up costing more money in the long run.

  You apply concrete sealers with a brush, roller, or pump garden sprayer. Before you begin, clean the concrete using the concrete cleaning tips mentioned earlier in this chapter.

  Concrete childhood lessons

  Like many children, we walked to and from school. Unlike our parents, we didn’t have to walk 10 miles uphill both ways through sleet, snow, high winds, and what-have-you. However, we did have to drag ourselves a good honest mile.

  Walking to and from school was one of our favorite parts of the day. We went from store to store along the main street in our little town, greeting each shopkeeper, and admired the wares. Because candy and toys were our favorites, we allowed extra time for the toy store and the corner drugstore. Believe it or not, we even found time to pop into the local hardware store, although it was off the beaten path. You see, our fascination with tools and building stuff began at a tender age.

  Aside from window-shopping, one of our favorite diversions was a game that involved the lines and cracks in the concrete sidewalk, and how to avoid stepping on them — at all costs. If we stepped on a line, it would break our mother’s spine, and if we stepped on a crack, it would surely break her back. Fortunately, although we accidentally set foot on many a line and crack, Mom’s back never suffered in the least.

  As adults, we’ve learned that cracks in concrete don’t break your mother’s back, but they can be the cause of a nasty fall. Yikes! A little concrete maintenance from time to time can save big time on repair bills and perhaps even doctor bills.

  You can minimize damage caused by rock salt by rinsing the area with hot water to remove the majority of salt. Of course, unless you live in a temperate climate, you have to wait until spring to do this task.

  Painting your concrete

  Paint remains a popular finish for concrete porches, patios, paths, garages, carports, and basements. Painting concrete is a great idea — if the paint will stick to the concrete. You can increase the stick-to-itiveness with thorough cleaning and prep, but there are certain conditions — such as moisture — over which you simply don’t have control. Hydrostatic pressure (moisture wicking up from below the concrete) can prevent even the best of finishes from sticking.

  You can determine whether moisture is a problem by taping a 1-foot-square piece of plastic (such as a garbage bag) to the concrete. Leave it there at least 24 hours, and then remove it. If a damp spot appears where the plastic was placed or there is condensation on the underside of the plastic, paint won’t stick. Consider using a clear acrylic concrete sealer (see the preceding section) or latex concrete stain (see “Staining your concrete — intentionally,” later in this chapter), both of which allow moisture vapors to escape, thus improving the odds that the finish will stick.

  Types of concrete paint

  Three basic types of paint are available for concrete:

  Latex: Latex paint is the most widely used. It has excellent adhesion properties, allows water vapor to escape (prohibiting blistering and peeling), and is the most user-friendly to apply because it cleans up with water.

  Oil-based paints: Oil-based paints are still a favorite for porches and patios. They offer a harder, shinier, and more abrasion-resistant finish.

  Epoxy: Epoxy is the crème de la crème of concrete paint. It’s the most durable and longest lasting. Epoxy is especially popular in basements as a means of controlling dampness. Epoxy paints generally consist of two parts which, when combined, create a chemical reaction that results in an above-average bond and highly abrasion-resistant finish.

  Unfortunately, chemists haven’t yet developed a paint that won’t eventually sustain damage from the hot tires of cars. Over time, all types of concrete paint will bubble, peel, or chip when they suffer the wear and tear of car tires.

  Doing the job right

  Don’t be in a hurry to paint freshly poured concrete. For best adhesion, let the concrete cure for 60 to 90 days before painting. Existing concrete is ready to go when you are.

  Here are the step-by-step instructions:

  1. If necessary, remove any flaking, peeling paint on previously painted surfaces, using a chemical remover, sandblaster, or mechanical abrader.

  2. Clean the surface.

  Grit, grease, oil, and other contaminants inhibit the paint from sticking. (For cleaning instructions, see our concrete cleaning tips earlier in this chapter.

  If you have rust stains on your concrete, try using a concrete cleaner that contains phosphoric acid. You can buy it in liquid or jelly form.

  3. Lightly etch the surface using a 25 percent solution of muriatic acid.

  Etching helps the paint stick better. Simply pour the solution onto the concrete, spread it out evenly, and let it stand for approximately 15 minutes. Then flush the entire area with water. (See the sidebar “Only banana peels should cause slips and falls on concrete” for more information on working with this acid.)

  4. Using a medium-to-long-nap roller cover and a nylon/polyester brush or paint pad to cut in the edges, apply concrete floor paint using the method required by the type of paint you choose:

  • Latex pa
int: Most latex concrete floor paints are designed to be applied directly to raw concrete. Apply a first coat as a primer and a second coat to get a full and uniform finish.

  • Oil-based paint: These paints should be applied over a coat of oil-based concrete or masonry filler/primer (thin the primer slightly using mineral spirits to enhance the penetration and improve the bond). (Note: You can apply an oil-based paint over an existing oil finish, as long as the existing finish is clean and has been de-glossed with tri-sodium-phosphate [TSP] or a similar liquid paint de-glosser.) After the primer dries, apply the finish coat. Use mineral spirits for cleanup.

  • Epoxy paints: Epoxy typically comes in two parts that you mix together prior to application. The mixture creates a chemical reaction that makes the finish bond with the concrete for a long-lasting, durable finish.

  Compared to other, more-forgiving finishes, the surface prep must be especially thorough when using epoxy, so be sure to follow steps 1 through 3 to the letter. There isn’t much of a margin of error when it comes to working with epoxy.

  Two to three coats of epoxy — with about 16 hours of dry time between coats — should provide a finish that will outlast you. Read the instructions on the package for specific application instructions.

  Whatever type of paint you use, don’t clean the surface one weekend and apply the paint the next. You don’t want a week’s worth of dirt and contamination to ruin the new coat of paint.

  For extra protection, use paint that contains a mildewcide (a fungicide that prevents mildew and other fungi from growing on painted surfaces). Although mildewcide is added to many paints during manufacturing, you can add it after the fact if the paint you’re using doesn’t contain it — just ask about your options wherever you buy paint.

  Staining your concrete — intentionally

  Besides concrete floor paints, there also are concrete stains. Concrete stains are much thinner than paint so they penetrate the surface more thoroughly for better adhesion. When dry, stained concrete resembles pigmented concrete rather than a painted finish. On the other hand, because it’s so thin, concrete stain is not nearly as abrasion-resistant as concrete paint, so it must be applied more frequently. Dang!

  As with painting prep, the concrete should be cleaned and lightly acid-washed for maximum penetration (refer to steps 1 through 3 in the preceding section). Then mix the stain in a 5-gallon bucket and mop or roll it onto the concrete.

  Repairing concrete steps

  Patching crumbling concrete steps enhances the appearance and safety of your home for a fraction of the cost of new stairs. And the best part is that it’s a task that most do-it-yourselfers can handle with ease.

  As the weakest point of construction, the step’s edge is most vulnerable to damage. Expansive soil, freeze and thaw cycles, efflorescence (a white powdery substance that results from mineral salts leaching to the surface of concrete; see Chapter 4), and deterioration from salt and traffic are a few of the causes of crumbling concrete stairs.

  Memories from our little red porch

  We grew up in a home built around the turn of the 20th century by our boat-builder-turned-contractor grandfather. Several generations were raised in that home. It boasted traditional Mediterranean architecture, a reflection of our grandfather’s European roots.

  Much to our chagrin, our old family home is no longer. It was sacrificed in the name of progress. (Our city called it “urban renewal.”) Out with the old, in with the new. A significant piece of the hearts and souls of all the members of our family died the day that our old family home fell prey to the ravenous jaws of the indiscriminate bulldozer. All that remains some 25 years later are memories, fond memories.

  Our home stood proud among those in our neighborhood. It consisted of a towering (from the eyes of children) two stories with a large basement. The building had a beige dashed plaster exterior, a red S-shaped tile roof, and vast archways flanked by stately sculpted columns. There were lots of windows, a multi-light radius-top entry door, generous architectural ornamentation, two spacious verandas at the second floor, and an ample front porch that was the first to greet each visitor to our home.

  Some of the most vivid memories of our old home took place on that front porch. Many a family gathering was held there. Although the arid climate necessitated it, air conditioning was something reserved for more modern homes. Instead, we sought refuge from the sweltering heat swinging to and fro on the canvas-clad bench swing.

  The porch, located a half-dozen steps above the street, was constructed of concrete and finished with a deep red paint. It was that porch wherein we had our first experience with painting. It needed a fresh coat every few years. How rewarding it was to admire our workmanship and to enjoy praise from the family!

  We’ll never forget that handsome red porch at our old family home. It’s been 30 years since its last painting and, in our minds, it’s as bright and fresh-looking as the day it was last painted.

  Crumbling steps frequently result from what were once small cracks that were not tended to. You can prevent most of the damage to steps by caulking, which allows the concrete to expand and contract yet prevents moisture from entering the area.

  To repair concrete stairs, you need these supplies:

  Sledgehammer

  Cold chisel

  Safety goggles

  Mixing container

  Shovel

  Garden hose

  Concrete finishing trowel

  Wooden float (a wooden trowel used to tamp and work the concrete into place)

  Small piece of 3/4-inch plywood to act as a form board

  Concrete bonding agent

  Ready-to-mix concrete patch material (or epoxy patch material)

  Tarp or plastic sheeting

  1 quart of clean motor oil or concrete form-release oil

  At least four bricks (more may be needed)

  Follow these steps to get your steps feet-worthy:

  1. Remove the loose and crumbling concrete with a sledgehammer and cold chisel. (Be sure to wear safety goggles!) Then sweep up all the debris and clean the area with the strong spray of a garden hose.

  Isn’t it just like a home fix-it expert to suggest breaking something the rest of the way before making a repair? It seems paradoxical, but to successfully repair a concrete stair — or anything else made of concrete — you must first completely remove all loose pieces and make sure that what remains is solid.

  2. Paint the raw patch area with a concrete bonding agent and allow it to set up for about 15 minutes.

  The bonding agent is a glue that helps the new patch material adhere to the old, cured concrete.

  3. Use a circular saw or handsaw to cut a scrap piece of plywood equal to the height of the step and a few inches longer than the damaged area at either end.

  You’ll set this form board flush against the face of the step to hold the concrete patch material into place until it’s fully cured.

  4. Apply a light coat of clean motor oil or form release oil on the surface of the form board facing the concrete to prevent the form from sticking and damaging the patch when removed.

  5. Place the form flush against the face of the steps for a smooth patch.

  The bottom of the form board should fit flat against the top of the step below.

  6. Use several bricks to hold the form boards firmly in place (see Figure 17-1).

  Figure 17-1: Propping up the board with some bricks.

  7. Mix the concrete patch material.

  Vinyl concrete patch and polymer cement are the most popular concrete patching products because they’re easy to use and they blend well with the old material. Though more expensive, epoxy patch material is the best money can buy. It’s stronger and holds better — the result of a chemical reaction among the ingredients of the adhesive. The consistency of the patch material should be loose, but not runny.