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Diane von Furstenberg

Page 30

by Gioia Diliberto


  81“The buyer for” and following: Ibid.

  82“seemed so old”: DVF to the author, October 28, 2010.

  82“Henry would say”: Richard Conrad to the author, May 22, 2010.

  83“I wore them”: Ibid., February 9, 2013.

  83“He took me”: Ibid.

  83“I’m making beautiful”: DVF to Richard Conrad, undated, private collection.

  83“We put together” and following: Richard Conrad to the author, May 22, 2010.

  84“a place of Dreiserian” and following: Bill Blass, Bare Blass (New York:, HarperCollins, 2002), pp. 19–20.

  85“grateful,” Ibid., p. 20.

  87“had been completely” and following: Stephen Burrows to the author, March 17, 2011.

  No Zip, No Buttons

  90“all you need”: Lillian Ross, “The Millionaire,” New Yorker, January 7, 1950.

  90“beehives” and following: Guy Trebay, “Needle and Thread Still Have a Home,” New York Times, April 29, 2010.

  91“create some buzz”: Richard Conrad to the author, June 9, 2010.

  91“That woman stayed”: Kathy van Ness to the author, August 27, 2013.

  92“but we didn’t have”: Conrad to author, May 22, 2010.

  92“Oh, that’s good”: Sue Feinberg to the author, November 1, 2010.

  92“she’d have a famous”: DVF to the author, August 1, 2014.

  93“When you’re young”: DVF to the author, August 1, 2014.

  93“I had a lot of things”: Feinberg to the author.

  94“Diane’s greatest talent”: DeBare Saunders to the author, August 27, 2014.

  94“Diane would arrive”: Conrad to author, February 9, 2013.

  94“that took the color”: Feinberg to author, October 2, 2014.

  94“It felt like cashmere”: Conrad to the author, June 9, 2010.

  95“I’m very worried”: DVF to Richard Conrad, July 1972, private collection.

  95“It had dolman sleeves”: DVF to the author, September 12, 2014.

  95“with no zip, no buttons”: EVF quoted in DVF to Richard Conrad, July 1972., private collection.

  95“because they itched” and following: Conrad to the author, February 9, 2013.

  97“but when I saw the photo”: DVF in an email to the author, January 19, 2014.

  97“since men’s bodies”: Gloria Steinem, Revolution from Within: A Book of Self-Esteem (New York: Little Brown, 1992), p. 218.

  98“excitement” and following: “The Globetrotters,” WWD, November 2, 1972.

  99“a silk jersey”: Conrad to author, May 22, 2010.

  99“not for Liz Claiborne”: Feinberg to author, November 1, 2010.

  99“could have done without”: “Globe Trotters,” WWD, November 2, 1972.

  99“I told Ferretti”: Conrad to the author, June 9, 2010.

  99“Egon encouraged me”: DVF to the author, July 31, 2014.

  100“You always push others”: Lee Wohlfert-Wihlborg, “The Original von Furstenberg, Egon,Wakes Up to His Own Potential,” People, December 21, 1981.

  100“She was so much smarter”: Francke, Newsweek, March 22, 1976.

  100“made a strong” and following: “Now: Fall in New York,” WWD, May 23, 1973.

  101“I was just trying”: DVF to the author, July 31, 2014.

  101“Egon had a lot”: Ibid., March 18, 2012.

  101“Diane came to me” and following: Fran Boyar to the author, May 24, 2011.

  101“wasn’t special”: DVF to the author, February 3, 2012.

  102“You just live once” and following: Linda Bird Francke, “The Couple That Has Everything. Is Everything Enough?” New York, February 5, 1973.

  102“Our sex life”: DVF to the author, July 31, 2014.

  102“You destroyed my marriage” and following: Linda Bird Francke to the author, September 17, 2014.

  103“Egon was more upset”: DVF to the author, July 31, 2014.

  103“She said, ‘Egon’s leaving’” and following: Conrad to the author, February 9, 2013.

  104“Either you give me” and following: Diane von Furstenberg, Diane: A Signature Life (New York: Simon & Schuster), p. 195.

  104“We shared a lawyer”: DVF to the author, October 2, 2014.

  104“He still came over”: Ibid., July 31, 2014.

  104“Do you love me?” Wolfert-Wihlborg, “Original von Furstenberg.”

  The Wrap

  106“I knew we could”: Richard Conrad to the author, May 22, 2010.

  106“Let’s make it”: Sue Feinberg to the author, October 2, 2014.

  106“his mother called”: DVF to the author, October 2, 2014.

  107“testing and trying” and following: Ibid., September 12, 2014.

  107“It was nothing really”: Diane von Furstenberg, Diane: A Signature Life (New York: Simon & Schuster, 2009), 80.

  107“We shipped it out” and following: Conrad to the author, February 9, 2013.

  107“I had a black”: Leslie Garis in an email to the author, September 26, 2014.

  107“very grateful”: Leslie Bennetts in an email to the author, September 27, 2014.

  108“We were making”: Conrad to author, February 9, 2013.

  108DARLING DICK: DVF to Richard Conrad, October 3, 1975, private collection.

  108“I can’t remember”: Boyar to author, June 10, 2011.

  109“Women are too intelligent”: Judy Klemesrud, “Common Dresses Are Designed by a Princess,” New York Times, November 7, 1974.

  109“I’d always see her”: André Leon Talley to the author, December 4, 2013.

  110“She knows her”: Oscar de la Renta to the author, July 20, 2011.

  110“loved Diane”: Francois Catroux to the author, September 8, 2011.

  110“I don’t pretend”: Kathleen Brady, “Diane Means Business,” WWD, June 14, 1973.

  110“I didn’t call myself”: DVF to the author, July 31, 2014.

  110“She took credit”: DeBare Saunders to the author, August 27, 2014.

  110“She was scared”: Linda Bird Francke to the author, September 17, 2014.

  111“beautiful bright yellow” and following: Andy Warhol, The Andy Warhol Diaries, edited by Pat Hackett (New York: Grand Central Publishing, 1991), p. 326.

  111“it reminded me”: Bernadine Morris to the author, August 2, 2010.

  112“Who else has done”: DVF to the author.

  112“a climax to”: Diane von Furstenberg, “Wrap dress,” 1975–76, Gift of Richard Martin, 1997, in Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–, http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1997.487.

  113“one-tenth of one percent,” Frances Cerra, “Who’s to Blame For the Ruined Clothes?”, New York Times, August 30, 1976.

  113“The stars were aligned”: Sue Feinberg to the author, November 1, 2010.

  114“It was exciting”: Jaine O’Neil to the author, April 17, 2011.

  114“I am very drunk”: DVF to Marion Stein, May 12, no year, private collection.

  114“He was always around”: Linda Bird Francke to the author, September 17, 2014.

  115“Diane’s style wasn’t” and following: Bob Colacello to the author, December 6, 2011.

  115“This is really sick”: Steven Gaines, Simply Halston (New York: Jove, 1993), p. 112.

  116“By the way” and following: Diane von Furstenberg interview by Victor Hugo, Interview, January 1975.

  116“our bodies”: DVF to the author, August 31, 2013.

  116“I was having”: Ibid., 2014.

  116“I got him”: Fran Boyar to the author, June 10, 2011.

  117“On the one hand” and following: Jas Gawronski to the author, June 11, 2013.

  118“a typical Upper East Side” and following: AVF to the author, June 17, 2012.

  119 “called me her oxygen”: and following: TVF to the author, June 15, 2013.

  119“she wouldn’t let me” and following: Olivier Gelbsman to the author, February 11, 2013.

  120“quietly
in the audience” and following: Bernadine Morris, “On Seventh Avenue, the Shows Gather Momentum,” New York Times, April 29, 1974.

  120“Egon would come”: Richard Conrad to the author, February 9, 2013.

  121“If I loan it”: Ibid., June 9, 2010.

  A DVF World

  124“There’s always an echo”: Stefani Greenfield to the author, January 21, 2014.

  124“People were offering”: DVF to the author, October 3, 2014.

  125“Why do you need”: Diane von Furstenberg, Diane: A Signature Life (New York: Simon & Schuster, 2009), p. 103.

  125“the ranks of women”: Ibid., p. 108.

  126“I thought” and following: Gigi Williams to the author, May 14, 2011.

  126“We never should” and following: Richard Conrad to the author, February 9, 2013.

  127“We did very well”: Ibid., June 9, 2010.

  127“Diane can’t tolerate”: Linda Bird Francke to the author, September 17, 2014.

  127“Women would book”: Williams to author, May 14, 2011.

  The Adventuress

  131“Do I think”: DVF to the author, October 3, 2014.

  132“she was fairly” and following: Barry Diller to the author, July 15, 2013

  132“It was very much like”: David Rensin, The Mailroom: Hollywood History from the Bottom Up (New York: Ballantine Books, 2007), ebook location 1811.

  133“no one had known”: Diane von Furstenberg, The Woman I Wanted to Be (New York, Simon & Schuster, 2014), p. 72.

  134“but I didn’t sleep”: Diane von Furstenberg, Diane: A Signature Life (New York: Simon & Schuster, 2009), p. 115.

  134“We spent about a week” and following: Barry Diller to the author, July 15, 2013.

  135“very much in love”: Von Furstenberg, Diane, p. 115.

  135“I guess the reason”: Andy Warhol, The Andy Warhol Diaries, edited by Pat Hackett (New York: Grand Central, 1991), p. 192.

  135“I don’t understand”: DVF to Andrew Goldman, “How Diane von Furstenberg Is Like a Cowboy,” New York Times, June 28, 2013.

  136“Go show” and following: Jerry Bowles, “Diane von Furstenberg—At the Top,” Vogue, July 1976, p. 141–42.

  136“He was always”: AVF to the author, June 17, 2013.

  136“I slept with other people,” DVF to the author, July 31, 2014.

  136“I don’t ask” and following: DVF to the author, August 1, 2014.

  137“It hasn’t been valuable”: TVF to the author, June 15, 2013.

  138“I’m here because”: Nancy Collins, “Brown Comes to Town,” WWD, May 11, 1976.

  138“was the first governor”: Barbara Rowes, “Women Buy, but Men Dominate the Fashion World: Then Along Came Diane von Furstenberg,” People, May 21, 1979.

  138“was so irresistible”: DVF to the author, August 31, 2013.

  138“he’d gotten”: Warhol, Warhol Diaries, p. 244.

  138“Yeah, briefly”: DVF to the author, August 31, 2013.

  139“I loved the feeling”: Von Furstenberg, Diane, p. 157.

  139“It was all for the boys”: anonymous to the author, July 11, 2011.

  140“The hours between”: Von Furstenberg, Diane, p. 155.

  141“The whole apartment”: Bob Colacello to the author, December 6, 2011.

  141“way in the back” and following: André Leon Talley to the author. December

  142“I was playing the games”: Von Furstenberg, Diane, p. 159.

  142“are better than men”: “Verbatim,” Time, February 16, 2004.

  142“Have I slept with women”: DVF to the author, September 12, 2014.

  143“huge advance”: Von Furstenberg, Diane, p. 120.

  143“Well, what do you” and following: von Furstenberg, Diane, p. 122.

  144“I am not a snob”: HFT, June 1980, p. 49.

  144“like Sheena”: Julie Baumgold, “Under the Volcano with Diane von Furstenberg,” New York, May 1981.

  144“Sits at the bathmat”: Baumgold, “Under the Volcano.”

  144“This morning” and following: Diane von Furstenberg interview by Bob Colacello, Interview, March 1977.

  145“Diane understands”: Michael Gross, “The Education of Diane von Furstenberg,” Manhattan, Inc., February 1985.

  145“What’s a pretty girl” Von Furstenberg, Diane, p. 109.

  145“That [wrap] dress” and following: Edward Kosner to the author, July 2011.

  146“I was so busy”: DVF to the author, October 2, 2014

  146“For someone who” and following: Newsweek, March 22, 1976.

  146“I gave up the princess”: DVF to the author, August 1, 2014.

  147“I haven’t worn”: Gloria Steinem to the author, September 27, 2013.

  147“you have to look”: transcript of DVF interview by Chrystia Freeland and Vanessa Friedman, published in the Financial Times, February 7, 2007.

  147“Before feminism”: Gloria Steinem to the author, September 27, 2013.

  147“a tomboy who suffers”: Sally Beauman, “So Who’s Liberated?” Vogue, September 1, 1970.

  148“We rarely covered”: Letty Pogrebin in emails to the author, February 18 and 19, 2013.

  148“We regarded ourselves”: Gloria Steinem to the author, September 27, 2013.

  148“in the early days”: Joanne Edgar in an email to the author, February 19, 2013.

  149“Too bad, I got there”: Luis Estevez to the author, May 17, 2011.

  149“If I had to be beaten” and following: Von Furstenberg, Diane, p. 112.

  Requiem for a Dress

  152VON FURSTENBERG LINE and following: “Von Furstenberg Line Marked Down by Six N.Y. Stores,” WWD, June 21, 1977.

  153“The handwriting”: Richard Conrad to the author, October 8, 2014.

  153“I was traveling around”: DVF to the author, August 2, 2014.

  153“She was bringing in”: anonymous to the author.

  154“that had four walls”: Diane von Furstenberg, Diane: A Signature Life (New York: Simon & Schuster, 2009), p. 131.

  154“he could not make”: Richard Conrad to the author, May 22, 2010.

  154Diane hates guns”: Ibid., June 9, 2010.

  154“came in one morning”: DVF to the author, August 1, 2014.

  154“It was a House of Eurotrash,” and following: DeBare Saunders to the author, August 27, 2014.

  155“What happened” and following: Barry Diller to the author, July 15, 2013.

  156“We took helicopters”: Lee Mellis to the author, February 16, 2011.

  157“Designers were becoming”: Andrew Rosen to the author, December 10, 2010.

  157“we approached her”: Lee Mellis to the author.

  157“It was over Christmas”: Barry Diller to the author, July 15, 2013.

  158“Suddenly, overnight”: Jaine O’Neil to the author, April 17, 2011.

  158“But he couldn’t help”: Richard Conrad to the author, May 22, 2010.

  158“Diane owed us” and following: Mimmo Ferretti to the author, September 12, 2011.

  159“I don’t want to know”: quoted in BusinessWeek, February 19, 1995.

  159“was full of beautiful” and following: Ferretti to the author, September 12, 2011.

  160“I will never forget”: Von Furstenberg, Diane, p. 134.

  160“My father got scared”: Ferretti to author, September 12, 2011.

  160“I have a lot down my sleeve”: “It’s What You Don’t Say,” WWD, April 14, 1978.

  161“asked me about my” and following: Gary Savage to the author, June 8, 2011.

  162“it’s a very chic plant”: Michael Gross, “The Education of Diane von Furstenberg,” Manhattan, Inc., February 1985.

  162“very velvety, purple”: Steve Ginsberg, “Beauty and the Bureaucracy,” WWD, February 24, 1978.

  162“She wanted to be” and following: Savage to the author.

  163“They didn’t turn out to be”: Mellis to the author.

  164“DVF groupie” and following: Andy Warhol, The Andy Warhol Diaries, edit
ed by Pat Hackett (New York: Grand Central Publishing, 1991), p. 292.

  164“He resented my big”: DVF to the author, July 31, 2014.

  164“was really difficult” and following: Sally Randall to the author, July 28, 2011.

  165“I don’t like to renege”: DVF to Iris Love, Interview, November 1981.

  165“he found out he was”: DVF to the author, August 1, 2014.

  165“I think Daddy’s gay”: Ibid.

  165“He loved me”: Ibid.

  166“upstairs huddled on” and following: Bob Colacello to the author, December 6, 2011.

  166“We’d stay for a month” and following: AVF to the author, June 17, 2013.

  166“I never once heard her”: Colacello to author, December 6, 2011.

  166“She’s unbelievably loyal”: Oscar de la Renta to the author, July 20, 2011.

  167“she’s not going”: Warhol, Warhol Diaries, p. 237.

  167“didn’t like the way”: Anthony Haden-Guest, The Last Party: Studio 54, Disco, and the Culture of the Night (New York: It Books, 2009), p. 108.

  167“Now people remake” and following: Fran Lebowitz to the author, April 1, 2011.

  168“I definitely had” and following: DVF to the author, September 12, 2014.

  168“was a very cruisy”: Stephen Fried to the author, May 17, 2013.

  168“Diane and I always”: Gigi Williams to the author, May 14, 2011.

  169“her rumored sexual”: Jane F. Lane to the author.

  169“step for the briefest”: Jane F. Lane, “Diane von Furstenberg: I Have a Man’s Life,” W, September 15–22, 1978

  169“The impression I got”: Fried to the author.

  169“Later, I realized”: Von Fursteberg, Diane, p. 149.

  170“The AIDS epidemic”: TVF to the author, June 15, 2013.

  170“don’t want their money”: Woody Hochswender, “AIDS and the Fashion World: Industry Fears for Its Health,” New York Times, February 11, 1990.

  170“The truth is”: Barry Diller to the author, July 15, 2013.

  171“When the concentration camps”: Warhol, Andy Warhol Diaries, p. 128.

  171“I remember Andy and I”: Bob Colacello to the author, December 6, 2011.

  171“I think my mother”: and following: Philippe Halfin to the author, August 30, 2011.

  172“She was literally crippled”: TVF to the author, June 15, 2013.

  172“had lost her mind”: Halfin to the author, August 30, 2011.

  173“too awful to contemplate”: Von Furstenberg, Diane, p. 163.

 

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