Mrs. O
Page 1
Copyright
Copyright © 2009 by Bartle Bogle Hegarty, LLC
All rights reserved. Except as permitted under the U.S. Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher.
Center Street
Hachette Book Group
237 Park Avenue
New York, NY 10017
Visit our website at www.HachetteBookGroup.com
www.twitter.com/centerstreet
Center Street is a division of Hachette Book Group, Inc.
The Center Street name and logo are trademarks of Hachette Book Group, Inc.
First eBook Edition: November 2009
ISBN: 978-1-59995-312-0
CONTENTS
COPYRIGHT
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER I
The Early Years: First Sketches
CHAPTER II
Primary Campaign: Dressed for Change
CHAPTER III
Democratic National Convention: Making an Entrance
CHAPTER IV
Presidential Campaign: Declaration of Fashion Independence
CHAPTER V
The Inauguration: First Lady of Fashion
CHAPTER VI
The White House: Style and Substance in the White House
CHAPTER VII
European Tour: Style Diplomacy
CHAPTER VIII:
Expert Reflections
CHAPTER IX:
The People’s Perspective
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
PHOTO CREDITS
This book is dedicated to Michelle Obama,
first lady of the United States—
the woman who unites and inspires us all.
INTRODUCTION
Perched on my couch in August 2008, I intently watched the Democratic National Convention coverage. I had already tuned into Michelle Obama’s style as media stories began to surface every few months—a profile in Vogue, a feature story in the New York Times, and who could have missed the frenzy sparked by the black and white Donna Ricco dress worn on The View? But it was during the convention that I became captivated.
I found myself profoundly impressed by Michelle Obama’s confidence, intelligence, and gracious spirit, and inspired that such strength and self possession could exist in harmony with a feminine, almost romantic, style sensibility. While strong and feminine shouldn’t be at odds, the dress codes of our culture can be remarkably outdated, particularly in the realm of politics. With Mrs. Obama’s style, a new era of body-hugging silhouettes, jewel tones, floral prints, and brooches was ushered in—unapologetically feminine details that quickly dismissed the boxy skirt suit as anonymous, old-fashioned, and, well, square.
On a more immediate level, I was simply taken with her beautiful clothes. By the second night of the convention, I was excitedly Googling to find out more. Who had designed her dress? Was the fabric a brocade? And what did others think?
Certainly, I couldn’t be the only one interested. Unable to find a central online resource that tracked and discussed Michelle Obama’s style, I decided to create my own blog and sought help from my employer to build and design it—the genesis of Mrs-O.org. The site has grown into a buzzing community, attracting women and men of all ages, from all parts of the world. Its success has, in turn, led to the wonderful opportunity of writing this book.
It is difficult for many, myself included, to separate how we feel about Michelle Obama, the woman, and how we feel about her style. We are intrigued by the composite woman—an accomplished professional; a devoted mother, wife, and daughter; a woman in touch with her own well-being, who manages to pull it all off with an impeccably chic sense of style. We can perceive that the same qualities we admire in the first lady—her energetic spirit, intelligence and authenticity—also radiate through her clothes.
At their most basic, clothes are a form of creative expression and visual communication. And in the way that clothes can speak without using words, Michelle Obama’s style speaks volumes. Through her clothes, Mrs. Obama conveys astute awareness of the occasion and mood, choosing ensembles that are full of nuanced meaning: collegiate to meet school children, modern professional to tour federal agencies, understated elegance to meet the Queen of England, knockout glamour to host a state dinner.
While the first lady’s wardrobe has become regular fodder for the global media, a story not as widely told is the substance of the clothes themselves. Mrs. Obama’s wardrobe is largely acquired through Chicago’s Ikram, one of the most progressive and fashion-forward boutiques in the world. Its owner and curator, Ikram Goldman, has taken on an unofficial role as advisor and style confidante for the first lady. It is Ikram’s masterful, unerring eye, in great part, that has presented the first lady with such a range of wonderful designers to choose from. Their designs compose a wardrobe increasingly known for its diversity and eclecticism—qualities that reflect the way a modern, twenty-first century woman dresses.
At the high end of fashion, Mrs. Obama has gravitated toward designers who value old-world craftsmanship and independent thinking. She has eschewed many of the “big names” in favor of smaller, well-established ateliers and rising design stars. Through Michelle Obama’s patronage, American designers have received national and international recognition, many for the first time. While Mrs. Obama has done wonders to bolster the American fashion industry, she has embraced select European and Japanese designers as well.
Mrs. Obama’s style is not limited to high design. She incorporates the full spectrum of fashion, as designs from affordable retailers are seamlessly mixed into her wardrobe. For the first time in history, Americans have access to the very same clothes the first lady wears, a gesture that conveys a down-to-earth sensibility. But the magic lies in the balance. Mrs. Obama’s style adeptly unites accessibility with high wattage glamour. We relate to the clothes—like the woman—as both familiar and inspirational.
Democracy exists not just in the fashion, but in the perspective. Mrs-O.org has become an authority on Michelle Obama’s style, a forum for people to share different points of view and mutual enthusiasm about the first lady’s style. This book contains commentary from those inside the fashion community, who know the ins and outs of the industry best, and ends with final words from the site community—real world style experts in their own right.
Michelle Obama’s personal style has become remarkable common ground, connecting us in a real and human way, even in the blogosphere. My intent with this book is to capture the inspiration that the first lady—and her impeccable, democratic sense of style—offers to so many of us.
CHAPTER I THE EARLY YEARS
First
Sketches
JANUARY 17, 1964
Michelle LaVaughn Robinson is born in Chicago. She and her brother Craig, two years older, are raised by their parents Fraser and Marian Robinson. They live on the top floor of a brick bungalow on the South Side of the city. Michelle’s great-aunt, who lives downstairs, teaches Michelle to play the piano. Michelle’s mother, Marian Robinson, would later tell Chicago magazine, “she would practice the piano for so long you’d have to tell her to stop.”
1970s
Michelle skips the second grade, and by the sixth grade, joins a gifted class at Bryn Mawr Elementary (now the Bouchet Math and Science Academy). She would describe her childhood to The New Yorker, “Not a whole lot of money. Going to the circus once a year was a big deal. Getting pizza on Friday was a treat. Summers were long and fun.”
1981
Michelle Robinson graduates from Whitney Young High School, Chicago’s first magnet high school. She is on the honor roll all four years, a member of the National Hono
r Society, and graduates as class salutatorian.
Michelle follows her older brother Craig to the east coast to attend Princeton. Two classes ahead of his sister, he would become the university’s star basketball player. She would later recall adjusting to life at Princeton in Vogue: “I remember being shocked by college students who drove BMWs. I didn’t even know parents who drove BMWs.”
1985
Michelle graduates cum laude with a bachelor of arts from Princeton University, where she majors in sociology and minors in African American studies.
1988
Michelle Robinson graduates with her J.D. from Harvard Law School. At Harvard, she would work at the Legal Aid Bureau, representing clients who couldn’t afford lawyers.
Michelle returns to Chicago to accept a position with the corporate law firm Sidley Austin; she works as an associate in the marketing and intellectual-property group.
SUMMER 1989
Michelle meets Barack Obama, a first-year intern at Sidley Austin. Michelle is assigned to be his advisor. Despite hesitation on her part because of their professional relationship, the two begin dating. For their first official date, Barack takes Michelle to the Art Institute of Chicago, to lunch at the museum’s outdoor café, and later to see Spike Lee’s Do the Right Thing. According to the Chicago Sun-Times, Michelle has said of the date, “He was definitely putting on the charm…. He swept me off my feet.”
1991
Michelle Robinson’s father, Fraser, passes away at the age of 56.
Barack proposes to Michelle at Gordon’s on Clark Street. Dessert is served with an engagement ring on the side.
JULY 1991
Michelle leaves Sidley Austin to work for Chicago Mayor Richard M. Daley’s office. She take a position as assistant to the Chicago mayor, specializing in human service initiatives. Michelle later told The Daily Princetonian of her decision to leave the private sector: “[Barack and I] had many debates about how to best effect change,” she said. “We both wanted to affect the community on a larger scale than either of us could individually, and we wanted to do it outside of big corporations.”
1992
Michelle is named the assistant commissioner in the city of Chicago’s Department of Planning and Development.
OCTOBER 18, 1992
Barack and Michelle Obama are married at Trinity United Church of Christ. Santita Jackson, daughter of Rev. Jesse Jackson Sr., sings at the wedding.
1993
Michelle Obama becomes Executive Director for Chicago office of Public Allies, a non-profit organization for young adults pursuing careers in public service. She works there for nearly four years, establishing an office, board of directors, and significant funding.
1996
Michelle Obama is named the Associate Dean of Student Services at the University of Chicago, where she develops the University’s Community Service Center.
Barack Obama is elected to the Illinois Senate, where he will continue to serve through 2004.
JULY 1998
Michelle gives birth to Malia Ann Obama.
NOVEMBER 7, 2000
Barack Obama has an unsuccessful bid for a seat in the U.S. House of Representatives.
JUNE 2001
Michelle gives birth to Natasha (known as “Sasha”) Obama.
2002
Michelle Obama is named Executive Director for Community Affairs for the University of Chicago Hospitals. She serves as a liaison between the hospital and surrounding community.
JULY 2004
Barack Obama, United States Senate candidate for Illinois, delivers a keynote address at Democratic National Convention in Boston.
OCTOBER 2004
Michelle Obama is profiled in Chicago magazine; the feature is titled, “First Lady in Waiting.”
NOVEMBER 2, 2004
Barack Obama is elected as the junior United States senator from Illinois.
JANUARY 4, 2005
Barack Obama is sworn in as the United States senator from Illinois at the state capitol in Springfield, Illinois.
MAY 2005
Michelle Obama is promoted to the Vice President for Community and External Affairs for the University of Chicago Hospitals. Through her job, she encourages low-income South Side residents to use community-based health clinics rather than more expensive, less efficient emergency rooms.
AUGUST 2006
Michelle and Barack Obama travel to Africa, where Barack Obama visits his father’s birthplace in rural western Kenya.
FEBRUARY 10, 2007
Barack Obama announces his run for president of the United States in Springfield, Illinois.
CHAPTER II PRIMARY CAMPAIGN
Dressed for Change
Michelle Obama wears a wool crepe dress by Maria Pinto. She waits backstage at the North Carolina State University arena in Raleigh, North Carolina, May 6, 2008.
With the launch of her husband’s presidential campaign, Michelle Obama began to move into the national spotlight. While she was comfortable with public speaking, thanks to her job at the University of Chicago Medical Center as Vice President for Community and External Affairs, she had not played a prominent role in her husband’s past campaigns.
Yet almost immediately, her charm and ability to connect with people proved to be a valuable asset to the campaign. Barack Obama began to call her “The Closer” for her ability to resonate with voters.
For her expanded duties on the political stage, Mrs. Obama turned repeatedly to the two Chicago women who sartorially knew her best: designer Maria Pinto and boutique owner Ikram Goldman. “Some people were amazed that there were great fashion choices in Chicago,” says Timothy Long, costume and textile curator for the Chicago History Museum. “But those people don’t know their history. For decades, glamorous women here have been using dress to prove that there is a high level of sophistication in Chicago.”
During the primary campaign, Mrs. Obama wore a predominance of Maria Pinto designs. When named to Vanity Fair’s Best-Dressed List for 2007, Mrs. Obama cited Pinto as her favorite designer.
While Maria Pinto made her name first by designing luxurious wraps and evening wear, she had expanded her daytime line significantly. “I love creating these make-an-entrance evening dresses,” Maria Pinto told Chicago magazine. “But we all have daytime lives. Women need clothes that work but also look wonderful.” Mrs. Obama’s choices helped showcase Pinto’s new direction, which married a sophisticated feminine style with slightly edgy, flirtatious appeal.
Fitted sheath dresses, many designed by Maria Pinto, became a signature of Mrs. Obama’s style during this time period. “Mrs. Obama’s clothing choices are diverse, but she seems to favor the shift dress, which is ideal for her body type,” said Andrew Bolton, curator, The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art. “It expresses her youthfulness and athleticism, two of the traits that, traditionally, have symbolized the ‘American Woman.’”
SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 10, 2007
*
Running For President
*
ON A SINGLE-DIGIT FRIGID MORNING, the launch of the Obama presidential campaign started outdoors, in front of the Old State Capitol building in Springfield, Illinois. The location was weighted with history, for it was here that Abraham Lincoln spent important early years in his political career.
In spite of daunting weather, thousands of people crowded into the town square to witness the historic speech and to welcome the Obama family to the presidential race. Mrs. Obama braved the chill in a black coat made of alpaca. The coat, designed by Maria Pinto, was light in weight yet comfortably warm. It sported a large portrait collar, which drew attention to Mrs. Obama’s face, accented by a purple cashmere scarf. Bracelet-length gloves and a small-brimmed hat in black complemented her winter wrap, while cuffed, wide-leg wool pants and high-heeled black boots finished the look.
Maria Pinto fashioned this coat specifically for this memorable occasion, with an eye on comfort and a streamlined, almost graphic silhouette
that would photograph well. While discussing the details of this design, Pinto asked about what coats the Obama daughters would be wearing. Mrs. Obama answered that she had not had time to shop for them yet. Pinto offered to make coats for the girls, too.
For Malia, Pinto made a black wool coat with fullness similar to the coat Mrs. Obama wore; it was accessorized with white knit gloves, scarf, and cap; for Sasha, Pinto chose a black-and-white houndstooth check, with hot pink knit accessories. Senator Obama wore his classic charcoal black overcoat and scarf. The final result was a picture perfect tableau of a young American family, coordinated but still individuals. Standing together on the steps of the Old State Capitol, waving to the crowds, their message was clear: We are in this together.
*
“Her style is timeless. She possesses a natural sophistication. But what I love most is her brilliance and eloquence coupled by the grace and beauty of a dancer.”
MARIA PINTO
*
It was an evocative way to face down the wind chill, as well as the long and winding campaign road ahead—not to mention a stylish beginning to the official campaign.
FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 2007
*
Perry, IA
*
THE POLITICAL STRATEGY OF THE OBAMA CAMPAIGN centered on winning the caucuses in Iowa—the first primary vote of 2008. Both the Obamas visited the state repeatedly, getting to know the voters through small gatherings.
On a beautiful spring day, Mrs. Obama attended a neighborhood coffee in Perry, Iowa. For this backyard gathering, she chose an ensemble by Maria Pinto: a sleeveless blouse in apricot silk charmeuse paired with a pencil skirt in cotton. An oversize leather belt defined her waist. Overall, the look conveyed a ladylike accessibility—an ideal message for meeting voters.