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A Book of Mediterranean Food

Page 19

by Unknown


  woodcock and mushrooms, 114

  yoghourt

  with pilaff, 98

  as a sweet, 166

  youvarlákia (meat rissoles), with avgolémono sauce, 186

  zuppa di pesce, 20

  *An illustrated and revised edition was published by Dorling Kindersley in 1988.

  * In this case use half the quantity.

  * Hâchoir in French, mezzaluna in Italian. These instruments can now be bought at a few good kitchen stores (William Page, Shaftesbury Avenue, Staines of Victoria Street, Cadec, 27 Greek Street, Soho, etc.). Once you have used one, it is unthinkable to be without it.

  * Un Voyage en Espagne, translated by Catherine Alison Phillips, and published by Alfred A. Knopf, under the title of A Romantic in Spain.

  * A Russian fermented liquor.

  * Fifty Luncheons, by A. Kenney-Herbert.

  * The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas, by Gertrude Stein.

  * The quantities given fill a cake tin 6½ inches square and 2 inches deep.

  * Austin de Croze.

  * The Happy Glutton, by Alin Laubreaux, translated by Naomi Walford.

  * In England cockles could be used instead.

  * These are found in great plenty at Ancona and other parts of the Adriatic, where they go by the name of Bollani, as we are informed by Keysler.

  † Since I wrote the above letter, I have eaten several times of this fish, which is as white as the finest veal, and extremely delicate. The emperor associates with the tunny fish and is always taken in their company.

  * A correspondent writing from southern Spain tells me that a more satisfactory way of skinning an octopus is to coat your hand with coarse salt, grab each tentacle hard, and pull. The skin peels off.

  * In Greece wild marjoram is used; it is called rígani and has a much stronger perfume than our marjoram. Origanum means in Greek ‘the joy of the mountains’. Greek rígani, which gives the characteristic aroma and flavour to Greek kebabs, can be bought from the Hellenic Provision Stores, 25 Charlotte Street, London W1.

  * One often sees instructions in cookery books to marinate the meat in wine or vinegar. This is never done in Greece, and would completely ruin the natural beauty of the dish if it were.

  * The cloves of garlic can be left unpeeled – the skin will come off when they are cooked.

  * Birds and Beasts of the Greek Anthology, by Norman Douglas.

  * Chorizos. These can be bought at Gomez Ortega, 74 Old Compton Street, WI.

  * Since this was written the production of spaghetti in England has made great progress, and there is now good English-manufactured spaghetti on the market.

  * Cambacérés is one of the signposts, like parmentier (potatoes) or florentine (spinach). When one reads upon a menu the name of Napoleon’s arch-chancellor then look out for something stuffed with foie gras.

  * These times are given for a dinner to be served at seven o’clock.

  * In spite of the enormous quantity of garlic and shallots which enter into the composition of lièvre à la royale, the remarkable fact is that to a certain extent the two ingredients cancel each other out, so that the uninitiated would hardly suspect their presence.

  * Cèpes are not usually obtainable in England, although they do grow in some parts of the country. I have been able to buy them occasionally at Roche’s or Parmigiani’s, both in Old Compton Street. Dried cèpes are also obtainable in Soho and most delicatessen shops and are worth trying. Soak them for a few minutes and then simmer them in oil until they are tender. They have plenty of flavour. I do not recommend the tinned variety, which are woolly and have no taste whatever. For the civet de lièvre cèpes can naturally be replaced with mushrooms, or with chestnuts.

  * See Stuffed Pimentos (p. 136) for the cleaning of pimentos for cooking.

  * See p. 148.

  * Prospero’s Cell, by Lawrence DurrelL

  * The Hellenic Provision Stores, 25 Charlotte Street, John and Pascalis, 35 Grafton Way, Tottenham Court Road, The Little Pulteney Stores, Brewer Street, WI.

  † Or use tinned chick peas recooked until soft.

  * In Greece these conserves are always offered to a stranger arriving at the house, served on a tray with a glass of water and a small cup of sweet Turkish coffee, a symbol of hospitality which must on no account be refused.

  † Turkish Delight.

  * Page 50.

  * A ‘black’ wine made in Corfu.

  * Plums, peaches, pears, figs, cherries, melon, apricots, etc. To serve with ham, cold turkey, or chicken.

  * See note on dried cèpes, p. 123.

  Table of Contents

  Cover

  About the Author

  Title Page

  Copyright Page

  Dedication

  Contents

  Introduction

  Acknowledgements

  Preface to the Penguin Edition

  Introduction to the 1988 Edition

  Table of Equivalent Gas and Electric Oven Temperatures

  Table of Equivalent American Measurements

  A Book of Mediterranean Food

  Soups

  Eggs and Luncheon Dishes

  Snails

  Fish

  Shell Fish

  Sea and Freshwater Fish

  Octopus and Cuttlefish

  Meat

  Veal

  Lamb and Mutton

  Beef

  Pork

  Kid

  Boar

  Substantial Dishes

  Poultry and Game

  Hare and Rabbit

  Vegetables

  Cold Food and Salads

  Note on Hors d’Œuvre

  A Few Sweets

  Jams and Preserves

  Sauces

  Index

  Footnotes

  Introduction to the 1988 Edition

  Page 13

  Soups

  Page 20

  Page 23

  Page 25

  Page 26

  Eggs and Luncheon Dishes

  Page 33

  Page 35

  Page 37

  Page 41

  Page 45

  Fish

  Page 53

  Page 57

  Page 68

  Meat

  Page 77

  Page 78

  Page 79

  Page 89

  Substantial Dishes

  Page 97

  Page 100

  Poultry and Game

  Page 116

  Page 119

  Page 120

  Page 123

  Vegetables

  Page 131

  Page 137

  Cold Food and Salads

  Page 149

  Page 152

  A Few Sweets

  Page 160

  Page 164

  Jams and Preserves

  Page 175

  Page 177

  Sauces

  Page 185

 

 

 


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