Healing my Heart: Book 2 - My Heart Series

by Michelle, Aleya

  The flight is extremely long; thank god the seats are comfortable. The food is not so great, but edible, it’s just the restriction, goddamn we are stuck on there for ten hours. Thank god Roxy was there to keep me calm. Giving me something beautiful to look at and her idea of joining the Mile High Club totally had me distracted and desperately trying to get her arse into the bathroom.

  We finally arrive in Honolulu just after lunchtime and the humidity is a killer. I can tell the training leading up to the heats is going to be intense. I squeeze my goddesses’ hand and give her a warm loving smile. I can’t hide my excitement that I’m on a tropical island with her by my side. She leans in to kiss me and I deepen the kiss and hold her close.

  After collecting our luggage we leisurely walk outside to meet our resort driver and hired van that coach has organised for us. As we drive along the road, I take in the amazing scenery of this country.

  There are waving coconut palms swaying along the sidewalks, the brilliant sun shining high in the bright blue sky, the tropical haven has me in awe of its natural beauty.

  I unwind the window and I can smell the salty air, knowing there must be a beach close by, has me itching to jump on my board and try out the monster waves.

  The Hawaiian driver pulls up to our resort and I am speechless. It is picturesque and tranquil and I think I’m in heaven. The islanders are waiting welcoming us as we climb out, we are given bright and colourful leis to wear, and Roxy can’t wipe the grin from her gorgeous face.

  The resort is enormous yet elegant, modern and refurbished entry and foyer, beautifully landscaped gardens, palm trees line the entrance. I can see two large pools, and again my sensitive senses know the ocean is just over the rocks.

  The hospitality so far is friendly and very pleasant. No wonder they call this island paradise, I could live here tomorrow.

  “Roxy this place is amazing,” I say to my angel as I kiss her cheek with adoration.

  “Yep it really is amazing, and we have only been here a couple hours. I can’t wait to explore with you,” Roxy tells me looking deep into my eyes. Giving her a wink I wonder what kind of exploring she is actually referring too.

  Our deluxe beachfront room is spectacular. It has full ocean views, modern furniture and all fully contained kitchens, large spa bath with double vanity. Roxy is in awe of the architecture and design. According to my very own graphic design professional the dining table, chairs and other items are classic contemporary pieces.

  “Wow Kade look at the abstract canvass’ they are all so unique and breathtaking,” she tells me in awe of it all, I am in awe of her knowledge and her beauty. “Check out the ambience when I lower the lighting shades of the low hanging pendants,” she informs me making me chuckle. I really don’t care about the lights.

  Now on the other hand the magnificent king size bed catches my eye. I scoop Roxy playfully up into my arms and lower her onto it, and we get all hot and heavy creating our own paradise while we christen it for the next couple of hours.

  The afternoon is picturesque as we go exploring the island. We walk along the spectacular beach, watching dolphins glide through the ocean, enjoying the beautiful sun’s rays and bright hibiscus flowers.

  There are three rectangular pools; one is Adults only so we make note to try that out later, clothes not an option, another with a slide, spa, sauna and double tennis courts.

  We make plans to go snorkelling and scuba diving next week and even parasailing when the comp is over and I can relax. I plan to do as little as possible with the woman of my dreams.

  Coach has me on an intense training plan that has me collapsing into bed each night and up at the crack of dawn. It will be worth it if I can make my dreams of winning come true.

  I hesitantly start my morning sprints, then legs and abs, jogging and cardio followed by chest and triceps. Aching and sore is an understatement. Next morning I work on back, biceps, abs again, shoulders, calves and more sprints.

  At least afternoons surfing training are the fun parts. It’s where I can be one with the waves. Coach has me carving, side railing, doing more difficult floaters and adding three-sixty manoeuvres to my technique. Love it.

  We have had five amazing days on the island so far. It really has flown with the training for me; at least having Roxy by my side has made life in general more enjoyable and pleasurable.

  As the night before my huge day rolls around, we spend it by having a nice casual dinner with the family, coach, and my squad, who have come along for support and no doubt the Hawaiian babes.

  Then Roxy and I relax and soak up the tranquillity outside in the spa, my favourite place in the world is being in her arms or by her side.

  “Sorry I’ve been training so hard baby, next week I’m all yours I promise,” I tell her sweetly, as I am fretting over not spending as much time together lately.

  “I totally understand Kade. You are going to smash it tomorrow baby, I just know it and I love you unconditionally no matter what the outcome,” she tells me with adoration.

  “I love you too, so god damn much,” I admit openly to her feeling so in love with this amazing woman by my side. I can’t wait to show her the surprise I have planned for next week.

  The sun has not long risen, as I wake at five to shower and head out for a morning jog. Today is the day; finally I can show the world what I can do on a surfboard! I have become quite familiar with the territory, but the thing about Sunset Beach besides the sand, is that the waves are unpredictable, and with the wind picking up already, I know we will be dealing with some big shit.

  The Surf comp in Manly was pretty damn big, but pulling up to phenomenal Sunset Beach I swear there must be ten times the amount of fans and supporters here today.

  We take our bags and gear to the tent we are assigned. Our sponsor is Vans so we are given shirts, bags, hats, and shoes. I can just see Pete’s face when I take some home for him. Definitely one of the perks.

  Over the loud speakers the hosts for the day make a start on the events and schedules.

  “Ladies and Gentleman, welcome to Sunset Beach for the World Cup of Surfing. The World Cup of Surfing is the second jewel in the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing. Held at Sunset Beach, we are expecting a fantastic line up of amazing surfers here from around the world!”

  Sunset Beach pulls in the largest swells seen in surfing comps and the waves are usually wild and untamed, just the way we like them. Every wave I have ridden so far in training has been unique.

  “Let’s get the Surfing rounds underway, I know the competitors are eager to hit the waves, let’s give them all a warm welcome to Hawaii with a loud cheer”

  “Woo hoo!” the crowd roars and screams, getting me pumped and excited. Mind you my heart is imitating a drummer’s solo, like it might burst out through nerves.

  “First heat Competitors are:

  Kai Waits USA

  Laine Bradley HAW

  Troy Slater USA

  Kade Thomas AUS

  Hamish Flores FRA”

  “Okay Kado, the first three competitors pretty well nailed their waves so you have to be fierce out there like I know you can be son,” Mm coach challenges me as I know he believes in my ability, sometimes even to a higher degree than I believe in myself.

  Really the others did nothing spectacular, but none of them wiped out either. It’s me then Hamish from France left in this heat.

  As the commentators calls my name for my turn out there, I wave to some fans, groupies, regulars that I see around. There is a blonde in the crowd, waving to me frantic, that bleach blonde hair looks familiar. Not now Kade you need to focus.

  I jog with my board under my arm, it’s an all too familiar feeling now and I’m so used to doing it. The sheer magnitude of the crowd watching, cheering, and the amount of fans is mind blowing. I know it’s a big event but huge doesn’t even begin to cut it. I wave to my beach babe Roxy, she blows me a kiss.

  Reaching the ripples of the ocean, I lay my K small board in the wate
r, lying face down I begin my paddle for the ride of my life. Judging from my training sessions here this event will be the highest waves I’ve ever surfed and they are increasing height by the hour.

  I hastily paddle with a swiftness that is rapid, no lagging off. I thrash through the water fast and hard with the strength I’ve been training to build. Who wants second place? Not fucking me!

  The vigorous waves are constant, not gradual just frequent and unrestrained. As George from Seinfeld says, “The Sea was angry that day my friend.”

  Towering, rough and dangerous but a surfer’s wet dream... I’m feeling slightly scared yet aroused and eager to surf these monstrous waves.

  I pause and straddle my board to let a couple slam down, they weren’t calling to me. But the fourth wave has my name on it!

  Hands digging deep into the water, increasing my speed I’m speeding toward the amazing mountain of water before me. The board I am using is the K Small; it’s a smaller board than I had used previously to help enhance my power and style. Used by Kelly Slater himself. So there’s gotta be some truth in it. Right?

  I hurriedly chase and stand as I ride the enormous wave, flicking and moving my hips once, twice, a third time making a large spray over my head. I am content with my first manoeuvre.

  Keeping my balance I try a Front Side Carving three-sixty. I’m now at the top of a wave. I ride down the slope; make a U-turn, head back up the wave and U-turn again to come back in. Of course make a complete three-sixty as the name suggests. Nailed it! Woo hoo!

  The wind is increasing speed as I feel the warm tingle against my wet skin, so I finish my heat off with a Backside Air, the wind will help this one along. I fleetingly ride into the surf and launch off the lip on the backhand, twisting and spraying for a smashing conclusion.

  Heat one complete. Pretty damn amazing effort, if I do say so myself.

  My arms have a sting to them as I paddle back in and carry my board up to await the scores with my squad, coach and family.

  “Proud of you Kado, fantastic heat!” coach states to me and places an arm across my shoulder.

  “Great work baby, you looked fantastic out there,” Roxy tells me embracing me tightly as we anxiously await the scores. Ebony and John give me a thumbs up, not wanting to overstep the zone, a wave from dad and I can’t help but notice his large grin.

  Is he proud of his surfer son that wouldn’t amount to anything?

  “the judges have given us the results, here are the scores:

  Kai Waits 6.73

  Laine Bradley 7.12

  Troy Slater 8.24

  Kade Thomas 8.27

  Hamish Flores 7.65

  Kade Thomas is the winner by 0.3 of a point. that is some close margins. congrats to Kade Thomas from Manly, Australia!”

  “Woo hoo, amazing job Kade!” my sister screams out, as the crowd roars for me. I actually have fans screaming my name, congratulating me and asking for my autograph. I kind of feel like a movie star.

  “Well done baby, I knew you would win,” my angel says sweetly to me as she wraps her arms around my neck and pulls me in for an embrace.

  “See you later sexy,” I say to Roxy as I kiss her lips, then head into the tent to get a rub down. I have a few little niggles in my knee that are hopefully nothing and I need to get ready for the next round.

  The beach bands are playing their tunes, displays of Vans merchandise is lined along the walkway and countless arrays of different foods and beverages to eat or drink during the thirty minute breaks between heats.

  “Up in the Next heat the competitors are:

  Ryan O’Neil HAW

  Jordan Alps USA

  Kade Thomas AUS

  Christian Lawrence HAW

  Antoine Lamor FRA”

  Ryan O’Neil is the one to beat. He pretty much does a fancy trick every time, which the judges love if you can pull it off successfully. Which he does, he nails a floater and half tube, damn it…

  Paddling out hastily for my turn after Jordan, I feel a little more confident that he didn’t quite nail his floater that he tried to manoeuvre. The Hawaiian sun is burning into me, so harsh and intense, the humidity is twice as high as back home and the sweat beads line my hairline.

  Ferociously digging my hands through the water, I paddle hard and rapidly. Numerous waves roll in, five so far. I need to wait for the perfect and attainable wave, but not too long, the timing is crucial.

  And then I spot it, its illusive, and possibly the largest for today, and it is mine. I see my name written all over the bastard.

  I’m gone, in pursuit of that essential wave, I successfully stand, knees bent well balanced so I advance and proceed for a Front Side Cutback. Speed is essential for this surfing trick, I utilise the rail of my surfboard and the cutback brings me successfully back to the source of the wave where I spin and twist to cut it back.

  Score!

  Last up I thrust and guide my board swiftly down the line, gathering maximum speed. The edge of the lip is starting to feather so I execute a quick bottom turn. Flicking the board on its heel side rail, I push my back leg to boost throttle as my body pushes the board out I keep pushing using both hands, crouching down. Using subtle body shifts I get myself back up in a flash. Fucking exquisite big rail turn!

  I retire from the water and glance to coach who is grinning from ear to ear, all this training has paid off when I execute this moves. “Smashed it Kado,” he states shaking my hand. I see Roxy and Ebony hugging each other with jubilation.

  “Now for the scores, and the best from each heat will be into the final”

  Ryan O’Neil 8.36

  Jordan Alps 8.17

  Christian Lawrence 7.63

  Kade Thomas 8.26

  Antoine Amor 7.78

  “We have the judge’s scores and the winner of Heat number two is Ryan O’Neil. he will be another finalist today along with Kade Thomas and Troy Slater. Come and check out the Hawaiian skate board events during the break of the surfing compition. the final event will start at two o’clock.”

  Roxy comes running towards me and I take her into my arms. “Fucking amazing Kade. You are so talented,” she tells me as we embrace.

  “Kade you are in the finals! This has been our plan all along, all the hours training, vigorous schedules, this is what you have trained for my boy,” coach exclaims to me with optimism and belief.

  I down a PowerAde, then get another rub down. I have a muscle pain in my leg that just won’t leave.

  I close my eyes as the trainer massages out the knots that should do the trick getting some much needed focus back in my mind, it needs to be clear for the final.

  I quickly change into my Billabong wet suit, disregarding the Quicksilver dampened suit, the more lightweight the better, then I make my way out of the tent.

  I am up first this time, so the nerves are running rampant, sweaty palms and heart racing.

  “Go out there and make me proud Kade. As long as you give it your best, which is worth more than wining in my book,” my coach says sincerely to me. He has been a role model to me over the years, showed me so much, I feel honoured to have him as my coach.

  Roxy throws her arms around me engulfing me with her love. She kisses me deeply and passionately and I almost forget about what lies ahead. “Whoa Rox that was some kiss. We will be finishing that off later that is for sure,” I say to her as she cheekily pinches my arse, so I smack hers following her lead. That has helped with the nerves for now.

  “Good luck Kade, I’m proud of you no matter what,” my father calls out to me and it warms my heart. Sometimes things happen for a reason; maybe the positive in mum leaving is that I’m now closer to my dad.

  Time to bring out the big guns and shoot for the stars….

  Jogging hastily through the cool ocean water, I place my board into the ripples of the current. I lay face down and scoop the water with my hands swiftly paddling out into the rapid ocean. It’s soothing out here. I can vaguely hear the cheers of the crowds.<
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  My focus is on the enormous swell of the slamming waves. They are rough and nasty, and hopefully they go easy on me.

  Then I see it, such a beauty at least eight feet, mountainous, I brazenly paddle into the eye of the wave.

  It takes me with velocity, I push up to my feet, as I stand I feel a knot under my knee, damn it, the pain is excruciating, but I will push through it. This is do or die...

  I get my balance, bending my knees riding over the wave. I feel slight vertigo from the steepness. FUCK! It’s insane and intense but I wouldn’t swap it for the world! I know I won’t last long with this roughness so I gotta get the tricks out now!

  First up is the Stale Fish Air Reverse. I grab my heel-side rail with my right hand, which is the hardest part, then I opt for a largely difficult spin into reverse rotation, my muscles and ligaments are stretched. My fucking knee is burning.

  As my turn progresses, I keep my body and board really connected so that it can move with the wave and the reverse spin is expedited with skill and expertise. One down.

  I proceed through the wave, its large and deep forming a barrel. If I can pull off this tube it will be magic and intense. The wave is hollow, I get inside the tube, keep my shoulders parallel and I face the line to hold it. Shaping myself to the barrel I avoid getting the lip to the head… Time stands still.

  Only a surfer knows the feeling.

  I make a clean exit…

  In the words of the legend Aussie singer John Farnham, “Down the barrel of a gun.”

  I’m doing something I love and doing it damn well, winner or not, I can honestly say I am proud of my achievement.

  I find myself limping out of the water, my knee hurts like a bitch, and thank god the training is over for a while. The crowd is cheering. “Love you Kade.” “Awesome waves.” “You rock.”

  A large grin forms across my face, this is more than enough, surfing waves like these and having fans love and appreciate me.

  My coach and squad are cheering, whistling all hopeful that I will take home the title.

  Roxy runs to my side and her dazzling smile warms my heart. No matter what else happens in the world she is all I need…