Chop Suey : A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States
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early cooking methods, 73, 76, 84
in fan-cai dichotomy, 79, 94, 98, 101
in food therapy, 78
milling of, 76, 87–88
See also specific grains
Grand Vatel, 157
Grant Avenue (Dupont Street). See San Francisco Chinatown
Gray, John Henry, 95–96, 97
Great Depression, 205
Great Hall of the People, 224, 227, 229, 237
Great Shanghai (restaurant), 221
Great Wall of China, 18, 23, 72, 234
Green, John, 1, 2, 6, 7, 13
Guangdong, 69
Guangdong Province, 5, 36, 97, 99–100, 206
Guangxi Province, 69
Guangzhou (Canton):
American missionaries in, 31–34, 59, 60
blockade of, 36, 40
food culture of, 24, 35, 71, 97, 98, 100, 101, 112
geography of, 100
1700s landscape, 6–7
as trade center, 7, 8–9, 20, 26, 108, 118
Guangzhou Province, 17
Guideways through Mountains and Seas (Shanhaijing), 18, 21
guo (cooking pot), 87
Gwathmey Siegel Associates, 215
Haig, Alexander, 231
Hakka ethnic group, 206, 244
Haldeman, H.R., 233, 234
Hall of Supreme Harmony, 17
Hammerstein, Oscar, 197
Hamm, Margherita Arlina, 165
Han Dynasty:
culinary history of, 80, 84, 86, 87–91, 92
expansionism in, 19, 78, 83
Hang Far Low (restaurant), 123
Hangzhou, 65, 79
Harland, Marion, 185
Harlem, 167
Harper’s Bazaar, 185–86
Harte, Bret, 146
Hawaiian Islands, 27, 41, 109, 206–7
“The Heathen Chinee” (Harte), 146
Hee Seung Fung (restaurant), 244
Henan Province, 72
Henry, Gale, 195
Hickey, William, 14
“high dishes,” 14
“Hi Lee Hi Lo—I Love you Chop Suey a la Foxee,” 196
Hinky Dinks Tavern, 216
hoisan sauce, 223
Holdridge, John, 230, 232
“Hold That Critter Down” (Nolan), 139–40
Holt, Jane, 219
Hom, Ken, 248
Honam, 13, 14, 29
Hong fa-lo (restaurant), 123–24
Hong Heong Restaurant, 103–7
Hong Kong:
ceded to Britain, 37
culinary culture of, 112, 214
geography of, 69–70, 100
as port city, 109, 118, 217
Honolulu, 206
Hopper, Edward, 197
horse meat, in Chinese cuisine, 23, 80, 166, 249
hot and sour soup, 251
Hou Ji, 76
Howells, William Dean (Mr. and Mrs.), 170
How to Cook and Eat in Chinese, 217–19
HSF (Hee Seung Fung restaurant), 244
Huang Di (Yellow Emperor), 73, 78
Huanghe River (Yellow River), 68–69, 70, 71, 88
Hunam (restaurant), 241–42, 242
Hunan cuisine:
in American restaurants, 221, 241–43, 244
origins of, 83, 99
“Hunan Gulch,” 244
Hunan Province, 83, 99
Hunan Restaurant, 241
Hunter, William C., 44–45
Ichthyophagus Club, 151, 154
Illustrations of the Tribute-Bearing People of the Qing (1761), 21–22
immigrants to United States:
French, 151
German, 149, 151
Irish, 133, 137, 140, 149, 151, 173
Italian, 120, 151
Jewish, 151, 198–205
lure of gold for, 102, 107–10, 112–14, 134
in 1980s, 243–44
Scandinavian, 151
and “white slavery” issue, 184
See also Chinese Americans
Immigration and Nationality Act, 217, 223
Imperial China:
anti-foreign attitudes in, 9, 19, 21–22, 36, 44, 49, 52–53, 165–66
etiquette of, 43–44, 46–48
importance of cookery in, 67
interest in outside world, 19–20
inventions of, 16
as “Middle Kingdom,” 16–19, 29
system of government, 16–17
trading partnerships, 19–22
tribute system in, 17, 19–20
See also Chinese cuisine; Emperors
Imperial Palace (restaurant), 220
In a Chinese Restaurant (movie), 195
India, 9, 10, 19, 36, 83
insects, as food, 81, 198
Irish immigrants, 133, 137, 140, 149, 151, 173
Jade Emperor, 82
Japan, 19, 221, 247
Java, 4, 5
Jay, John, 7
Jefferson, Thomas, 23, 67
jellyfish, 82
Jesuits, 20, 23
Jewish immigrants, 198–205
Jiahu village site, 72
jiaozi (dumplings), 89, 90
Johnson, Margaret, 196
Johnson, Samuel, 11
jujubes, 82
Jurchen tribesmen, 17–18, 79
Kaemmerer, Charles, 151–52
Kaifeng, 94–95
Kan, Johnny, 220
Kansas City, 172
Kansas City Star, 172
Kan’s Restaurant, 220
kashrut laws, 198–99, 204–5
Katz’s Delicatessen, 203
Kearney, Denis, 141–42, 152
Keh, David, 224, 241
Kelly, William, 111
Ken Hom’s East Meets West Cuisine (Hom), 248
Kentucky Fried Chicken, 249
Key Chong, 123, 124
King Hong Lau (restaurant), 209
King Honk Low (restaurant), 188
Kissinger, Henry, 226–27, 228–31, 232, 237, 243
Kon-Tiki Club, 216
Korea, 17, 225
kosher laws, 198–99, 204–5
kreplach, 210
kumquats, 82, 119
Kun Iam Temple (Wang Xia Temple), 42, 47
Kwoh, Emily, 221
La Choy, 192–94, 240
Lajia, 88
lamb, 80–81, 85, 99, 224
See also mutton; sheep
languages of China:
teaching to barbarians, 29
used for trade, 9–10
See also Cantonese language; Mandarin language
Laos, 17
Laozi, 75–76
lard. See fats
“La Vie de Bohème” (Murger), 156
Ledyard, John, 25, 27
Lee Kan, 124
leeks, 71, 79, 85
Lee, Virginia, 222
legumes, 91
See also beans; soybeans
Lem Sen, 176
Lewis, Sinclair, 187, 192
Libby, McNeil & Libby, 192
Li Hongzhang, 161–65, 162, 240
Li Hung Chang, 164, 177
Liji, 18–19
Ling, Hawk, 147
Ling, Leon, 180–83
Lin Yutang, 199
Liptzin, Sam, 204
liquors:
Chinese rice, 159, 235, 239
consumed by western traders, 2, 46
See also alcohol; rice wine; wines
Li Shu-Fan, 161
lizards, in Chinese cuisine, 81, 249
Lloyd, Harold, 195
lobscouse, 3
Long Acre (Times) Square, 167, 168
longans, 82, 101
Loo, C.M., 220
loquats, 82
Lord, Bette Bao, 227
“Lord Chesterfield’s Advice to his Son, on Men and Manners,” 11
Lord, Winston, 226–27, 228, 232
Los Angeles, 140, 173–74
lotus, 80, 154
Lum Fong’s (restaurant), 210
; Lum Pong Chop Suey Place (nightclub), 189
Lu Yu, 92
lychees, 82–83, 101
Macao, 101
Macau, China:
Cushing and Qiying in, 38, 41, 42, 43
Europeans in, 21, 26
geography, 5, 69–70, 100
missionaries in, 31
Madeira wine, 2, 5, 12
Magnuson Act of 1943, 216–17
Maine (battleship), 165
Main Street (Lewis), 187–88
maize, 83
mallow, 71–72
Manchu, Fu, 205
Manchuria, 68
Manchus:
cuisine of, 46, 47–49, 93, 99
as rulers of Qing Dynasty, 17–18, 37, 43, 100, 166
tribal homeland, 68, 99
Manchu Wok, 247
Mandarin (restaurant), 221
Mandarin House (restaurant), 221, 222
Mandarin language, 17, 29, 43, 160
mandarin oranges, 82, 119
Mandate of Heaven, 16–17
Manifest Destiny, 40–41, 115, 165
Mannequin (movie), 204
manners. See etiquette
mantou (steamed bread), 89, 95
“A Man Will Do Anything to Make a Living” (Liptzin), 204
mao-tai (liquor), 235, 239
Mao Zedong, 225, 226, 227, 232, 237, 239
marinades, 86
Marjorie Morningstar (Wouk), 200–203
The Market for Souls (Goodnow), 184
markets. See vendors
Marsh, Reginald, 197
McAllister, Ward, 155–56
M’Cardell, Roy L., 168
McDonald’s, 239–40, 248–49, 250
meat:
in Chinese cuisine, 14, 23–24, 48, 80–81, 83–85, 86, 99, 100
early cooking methods, 83, 84–85, 99, 100
fermentation of, 86
and “high” dishes, 14
in kosher practice, 198
in western European cuisine, 2, 3, 44, 45
See also specific meats
melons, 80, 122
Mencius, 93
mian (noodles), 90–91
See also noodles
mice, in Chinese cuisine, 58–59
“Middle Kingdom,” 16–19, 29, 58
The Middle Kingdom (Williams), 56–59
millet:
in Chinese cuisine, 71, 74, 76, 78, 99
domestication of, 71
early cooking methods, 73, 76, 84
noodles from, 88
Ming Dynasty, 17–18, 20, 98
mining camps:
Chinese culinary traditions maintained in, 119, 120, 134–35, 136–37
Chinese laborers in, 108–9, 112–13, 135
racism in, 113–14
western diet in, 135
Minneapolis, 172
missionaries in China:
banquets attended by, 33–34, 63
and diplomatic negotiations, 39, 40, 52
first American, 31–35, 53, 55, 59–63, 116, 117
wives of, 61, 62
writings of, 33–35, 55–59, 60–63
missionaries in United States, 115, 207
mollusks, 82
Mongolia, 17, 68
Mongolian barbecue, 221
Mongol invasion, 37
Mong Sing Wah’s (restaurant), 157–59
Monterey Park, 244
Monzon, Zosimo, 234
moo goo gai pan, 210
moo shu pork, 220, 221
Morse, Edward S., 170
Mott Street. See New York City Chinatown
Moy Afong, 149
Moy Auk’s restaurant, 169
mung beans, 91
Murger, Henri, 156
mushrooms, 80, 86, 99, 192
muskmelon, 80
mustard, 79
mustard sauce, 147
mutton, 44, 62, 80–81, 99
See also lamb; sheep
Nanjing, 65, 217
Nanking, Treaty of, 37, 39
New, Ilhan, 192
New Jersey, 216
New Joy Young (restaurant), 211–12, 212, 213
Newman, Ed, 238
New Year, Chinese, 77
New York (magazine), 223
New York City:
Bohemians in, 156–57, 186
Broadway, 157, 189, 190, 221, 224, 244
elites of, 155–56
immigrants to, 150–51, 198, 199
Li Hongzhang’s visit to, 161–65, 240
See also New York City Chinatown; New York City restaurants
New York City Chinatown:
anecdotes of, 149–50, 151–53
as distributor Chinese products, 208
and Elsie Sigel case, 180–84
first Chinese newspaper in, 152, 153
founding of, 148–51
immigrants to, 150–51, 243–44
Kaemmerer incident in, 151–53
Mott Street, 145, 146, 148, 150, 152, 157, 159, 162, 180, 182, 208, 209
as tourist attraction, 164, 166
New York City restaurants:
anecdotes of, 144–48, 157–59, 166, 168
banquet restaurants in, 208–10
images of, 146, 167, 242, 245
menus of, 193, 209–10, 209
outside of Chinatown, 166–67
New York Journal, 163, 164
New York Times:
entertainment reviews, 196
food critics, 221–23
food stories, 215, 219, 222–23, 241
news stories, 149, 150, 151, 176–77, 215, 238–39
New York Times Guide to Dining Out in New York (1969), 223
New York Tribune, 110, 117, 137
nightclubs, in Chinese restaurants, 188–91, 207
99 Ranch Market chain, 250
Ningpo, 53
Nixon, Patricia, 224, 235, 236, 236, 238
Nixon, Richard M.:
diplomatic goals of, 225–26
etiquette concerns of, 234–36
favorite foods of, 233–34
welcoming banquet for, 224–25, 225, 237–39
Nolton, Jessie Louise, 185
no-ma-das, 159
noodles:
in Chinese cuisine, 76, 88, 90–91, 95, 98, 99
chop suey, 147
chow mein, 192, 194
evolution of, 88, 90–91
oldest found, 88
Nordhoff, Charles, 137
North China:
climate, 70
earliest crops, 71–72, 76
geography, 69
military campaigns, 79
North China Plain, 69, 70, 99
Northern regional cuisine of China, 99, 221
nuts, in Chinese cuisine, 71, 83
Oakie, Jack, 196
“Ode to Bing” (Shu), 88–89
Ogden Standard, 183
oils:
in Chinese cuisine, 59, 92
from seeds, 85
Olympics, Beijing Summer, 248–50
onions, 35, 71, 79, 99
Oomologma (Mount Everest), 68
opium:
in America, 128, 150, 166, 175, 184, 185
in China, 36, 53, 60
Opium War, 36–37, 39, 40, 53
oranges, 82, 101, 119
Oriental Restaurant, 193
Orient Luau (restaurant), 216
Overland Monthly, 131
oxen, 80
oyster sauce, 100
Pacific islands, 27
Panda Express (franchise), 247
Parker, Mrs. Peter, 44
Parker, Peter:
as China expert, 41, 43, 46, 47
as missionary to China, 32, 40, 60
Paunkeiqua, 29–30
peaches, 71, 82
Pearl River (Zhu River), 5, 6, 69–70, 100
Pearl River Delta:
agriculture in, 100–102, 122
cuisine of, 100–102, 150, 154–55, 161, 168, 206
cultural history of, 72
; fishing tradition in, 119
geography of, 69–70, 100–102
immigrants from, 102, 112–13, 117, 119–20, 154–55, 159–60, 206
1700s landscape, 5, 6
Pearl’s Chinese Restaurant, 215
pears, 82
peddlers. See vendors
Pekin (restaurant), 189
Peking. See Beijing
Peking duck, 99, 220, 229, 230, 240, 248, 250
Peking Man, 71
Peking Restaurant, 220, 222, 224
Peng Chang-kuei, 242–43
Peng’s, 243
People’s Republic of China, 58, 68, 225, 226, 234–35
See also China
pepper, 30
Sichuan, 83, 85
Persia, 83
persimmons, 63, 71, 82
Pfaff’s saloon, 157
P.F. Chang’s China Bistro, 247, 249
Philadelphia, 23, 50, 169, 170, 248
Philadelphia Enquirer, 178
pickles, 86, 91, 137
pidgin Chinese, 9–10
Pierce, Idaho, 137
pigs:
domestication of, 72, 81
on sailing vessels, 2
See also pork
plums, 82
plum sauce, 82, 147
Polo diplomatic trips, 227, 230, 231, 232
Polo, Marco, 58, 91
Polyglot House (restaurant), 139
pomegranates, 83
pomelos, 82
pork:
in Chinese cuisine, 67, 74, 80, 81, 93, 99, 100, 134
in kosher practice, 198, 204–5
in western culinary tradition, 2
pork dishes:
barbecued, 216
moo shu pork, 220, 221
roofs of hogs’ mouths, 48
See also chop suey
Port Arthur (restaurant), 146, 180, 181
Portugal, 5, 21, 83
potatoes:
sweet, 83
in western cuisine, 2, 44, 134
poultry. See chickens; ducks; geese
Po Yi, 72
prawns, 67, 239
prejudice. See racism
Prima, Louis, 197
Prohibition, 189, 207
Puck, Wolfgang, 248
pupu platters, 215
Qianlong Emperor, 17
Qin Dynasty, 57, 78
Qing Dynasty:
culinary history of, 77, 93, 95, 98, 99, 227
decline of, 53
hairstyle of, 43
Manchu rulers of, 17–18, 37, 43, 100
xenophobia of, 19
Qiying:
banquet with Americans, 44, 46–49
culinary skill of, 48
as imperial emissary, 37, 41–44, 49
portrait of, 56
racism toward Chinese:
in American West, 113–17, 126, 127, 139–43, 174–75
in arts and entertainment, 139–40, 196–97
and Chinese Exclusion Act, 142, 161, 205, 206, 216–17
in newspapers, 140, 176
and “white slavery” stereotypes, 183–84, 195
radishes, 79, 122
railroad construction, 137–38, 171
Ranhofer, Charles, 156
Rather, Dan, 239
Ratner’s dairy restaurant, 203, 204
rats:
in Chinese cuisine, 24, 61
as stereotyped Chinese food, 58–59, 114, 124, 129, 151–53, 166, 172