The Story of Sushi
Page 36
rice prepared by, 33, 36–40, 41–42
working at sushi bar, 216, 268, 269, 288–91
Nitta, Jeffrey, 99–101, 131–32, 134–35, 165, 177, 258, 309, 315
nori, 82–85, 87, 277, 281
crispness of, 95
in hand rolls, 24
laver growing and, 83–84
making of, 82–83
in sushi rolls, 82, 85, 86, 95, 159
Noto Sushi, London, 58
Nozawa, Kazunori, 103
O
occupied Japan, 66–67, 79
Ocean Fresh, Los Angeles, 111–12
ocean perch, 187
octopus (tako), 232–35, 237
Okamoto, Kanoko, 11–12
okimari (“it’s been decided;” ordering option), 318
Oki Ton Japanese Bistro, San Diego, 312–14
okonomi (“as I like it;” ordering option), 318–19, 320
omakase (“I leave it up to you;” ordering option), 76, 77, 80, 98, 101, 102–3, 113, 287–88, 318, 319, 320
One Woman Sushi (Yuyama), 53–54
Ono, Jiro, 40–41, 232, 234, 272, 279, 319
ordering, 318–20
in America vs. Japan, 96–97
omakase and, 76, 77, 80, 98, 101, 102–3, 113, 287–88, 318, 319, 320
order in which dishes are prepared, 94–95
Osho, Los Angeles, 46
toro (very fatty tuna), 246, 247
Otsuka Chemical Industry Corporation, 39
overfishing, 237, 251
P
Paramount Pictures, catered event at, 24, 32, 60–64, 67–71, 75, 81, 86, 139
parasites, 143–44, 149, 178–80, 198, 254
PCBs (polychlorinated biphenyls), 182–83, 199
perilla leaves (shiso), 151, 322
pin bones, 155, 184
Pine Sushi, Edo (Tokyo), 78
plaice. See flatfish
prawns, 136
presentation, 95, 97, 98, 118, 122, 124, 151–52, 238
preserving fish, 28–30, 149
prices, 100, 101, 319
protease, 39
puffer fish, 67
Q
“quick sushi” (haya-zushi), 31, 64–65
R
radishes, 160, 235
cutting, 17, 150–51, 259–60
shredded, as garnish, 150, 322
red tides, 242
Rehermann, Frank, 295–96
rice, 28, 33–42, 76. See also sushi rice
brown, 34, 35
cooking, 39–40, 277
drying, 38
enriched with vitamins, 34, 35
grown in California, 294, 295–96
milling process for, 34–35
in miso and soy sauce production, 14–17
rinsing, 33–34, 36, 178
sake never served with, 76
species and varieties of, 37, 38
spiritual beliefs about, 36–37
white, nutritional value of, 35
during World War II and occupation, 66–67
rice vinegar:
invention of, 31, 96
production of, 17
in sushi rice, 31, 38, 39, 40, 41
rigor mortis, 250
Rika’s, Los Angeles, 57
robots, sushi-making, 63–64, 67–68, 70
Roman Empire, 29, 82, 226
Rudie, Dave, 280–81
Russia, caviar trade in, 279
S
saba. See mackerel
sake, 31, 38, 76–77, 178, 278
salmon (sake or shake), 112, 155, 178–85, 187, 194, 237, 251
farmed, 181–83, 199
parasites in, 178–80
return of, to home streams, 180–81, 182
sushi or sashimi, 183–85
salmon eggs (ikura), 278–79, 281
salt:
marinating fish in, 142–46
preserving fish in, 28–30
samurai, 7, 65, 78, 150
san-mai oroshi (three-piece breakdown), 147
sashimi, 149–52, 260. See also specific fish
arrangement of, 151–52, 238
eating, 152, 322
history of, 149–50
origin of word, 150
Saturday Night Live, 46
scales, 154–55, 189, 191, 200–202, 210, 226
Schmidt, Johannes, 226
scombroid poisoning, 153
sea bass, 154, 187
sea bream (also known as snapper; tai), 154, 186–96
clean, sweet taste of, 195
farmed, 188–89
Japanese love of, 186–87
poisonous fins of, 187–88, 189, 190
sushi and sashimi, 193–96
tenderizing skin of, 192
searing techniques, 148
sea urchins (uni), 45, 279–81, 319
seaweed, 82–85. See also nori serving sizes, 98
Sever, Tali, 57
shari (“Buddha’s bones;” slang for rice), 36
shari-kiri (“cutting Buddha’s bones”), 41
shimofuri (“fallen frost;” cut of tuna), 247
Shinto, 7, 36
shiokara (fermented fish paste), 28
shirauo (whitebait), 66
shiso (perilla leaves), 151, 322
Shogun, 49
shrimp, 136–39, 143, 188, 232
cooked (kuruma-ebi or ebi), 136–39
sweet (ama-ebi or botan-ebi), 136–37
simmering in broth, 98
slime eels, 114
snakehead, 67
snapper, 154, 183, 197. See also sea bream
use of word, 187
sole. See flatfish
Something’s Fishy, Malibu, 48, 49, 55
soybeans, in miso and soy sauce
production, 14–17
soy sauce, 277
chef’s “house” (nikiri), 22, 23, 320
dipping nigiri in, 26, 272, 321
production of, 16–17
sashimi and, 150, 322
stirring wasabi into, 26, 320–21
spicy tuna, 61, 95, 256
squid (ika), 233, 235–38, 290
stance of sushi chef, 259–60, 266
starry flounder, 207, 208
Stone Age, 187
street food, sushi as, 64–66, 79
Streisand, Barbra, 48
sugar, in sushi rice, 40–41
Suguira, Daisuke, 63, 68, 70–71
Suguira, Toshi, 25, 42–43, 47–51, 110, 111, 228, 231, 266
antics and charisma of, 48–50, 99, 120–21, 134, 170, 214–15
background and early career of, 47–49
catered events and, 24, 60–64, 67–71, 212, 213, 216, 217–21, 282–83
Hama Hermosa’s decline and, 43, 50, 239, 281
nigiri demonstrated by, 261–63, 271
“Sushi Masters” competition judged by, 294–300, 302
sushi school founded and run by, 4–7, 50–51, 55, 98, 278, 300, 302–3, 315
tests administered by, 124, 125–27, 164, 166–68, 171, 240, 259–63
women students and, 51, 55, 58
working at sushi bar, 22, 120–21, 214–15, 268, 269, 281–82, 288–91
sushi. See also nigiri; sushi rolls
history of, 28–31, 64–67, 77–79, 96, 149
invention of toppings for, 66, 67, 183
meaning of word, 27
origin of word, 29–30
quest for speed and, 96–97
regional varieties of, 40, 67
“Sushi” (Okamoto), 11–12
Sushi: The Japanese Tradition, 317–18, 319–20
sushi bars:
eating at, 317–22
origins of, 79
sitting at tables vs., 95, 317
Sushi Central, Los Angeles, 57
Sushi Chef Institute, 4
Sushi Chef Kirara’s Job, 52–53, 93, 115, 170, 192, 229, 234, 256, 262, 311–12, 315
Sushi Girl, 57
“Sushi Masters” competition, 294–30
0, 302
sushi rice:
factory-produced, 27, 31, 33
Miora in, 39, 41–42
origins of, 28–31
rice varieties used for, 37, 38
robot-pressed, 63–64, 67–68, 70, 92
sugar in, 40–41
sushi chefs’ preparation of, 27, 33, 36, 37–41
vinegar in, 31, 38, 39, 40, 41
sushi rolls, 81–88, 94–97, 100, 317
Americans’ fondness for, 81, 82, 85, 96–97
big (futo-maki), 27, 95, 159
California, 81–82, 85–86, 95
cucumber (kappa-maki), 86–87, 95, 304
eating, 322
inside-out (ura-maki), 81–82, 85–86, 88, 95, 97, 158, 159
Japanese tourists and, 88
neta as term for fillings in, 89–90
nori in, 82, 85, 86, 95, 159
special or creative, 127, 157–60, 163–67
students tested on, 124, 125–27, 164, 166–68
thin (hoso-maki), 86–87, 95
in traditional Japanese meals, 81, 86
tuna (tekka-maki), 86, 87, 95, 254
Suzumo SSG-GTO, 63–64, 67–68, 70
swordfish, 154, 202, 237
T
tai. See sea bream
Takayama, Masayoshi, 101
takeout sushi:
in America, 133, 134
in Japan, 65, 78–79
Takezushi, New York, 46
tako (octopus), 232–35, 237
talc, rice coated with, 33–34
tamago yaki (sweet egg omelet), 124–25
Tamamura, Toyoo, 96–97
tapeworms, 179
taurine, 235
tea ceremony, 76
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, 87
tekka-maki (tuna rolls), 86, 87, 95, 254
te-maki (hand rolls), 24
Terauchi, Jay, 6, 7, 12, 24, 25–27, 31–32, 33, 61, 98–101, 103, 104–7, 127, 131, 132, 185, 278, 295, 297, 298, 300, 301–5, 315
Thailand, 28, 30
thin rolls (hoso-maki), 86–87, 95
three-piece breakdown (san-mai oroshi), 147
TMA (trimethylamine), 144, 145
TMAO (trimethylamine oxide), 144, 235, 242
Tokugawa, Ieyasu, 66
Tokyo, 154, 198. See also Edo
sushi in, 40, 41, 64–67, 77–78, 208
Tsukiji Fish Market in, 110, 228, 233, 249, 281
Tokyo Kaikan, Los Angeles, 46, 81–82, 100, 109
toro (fatty tuna), 45, 60, 82, 111, 112, 182, 209, 246, 247–48, 252, 255, 319
trout, 155, 180, 251
Tsukiji Fish Market, Tokyo, 110, 228, 233, 249, 281
Tsumoto, Tetsuya, 108–12, 214, 253, 264–74, 277–79, 288–91, 303
Tsunami, Los Angeles, 56–57
tuna (maguro), 153, 154, 155, 183, 187, 194, 195, 237, 245–57, 260
aging of, 249–50
albacore, 148, 151–52
bigeye, 245, 251, 253–57
bluefin, 28, 245, 246–53, 320
bonito, 21–22, 23, 28, 187
challenges posed by, 249–51
cutting, 60–61, 253–57
fatty (toro), 45, 60, 82, 111, 112, 182, 209, 246, 247–48, 252, 255, 319
filleting, 252
freezing, 248–49
medium fatty (chutoro), 246, 248, 256
mercury and, 252–53
old, camouflaging age of, 106
population decline of, 251
red meat (akami), 246, 248, 255, 256
rolls (tekka-maki), 86, 87, 95, 254
spicy, 61, 95, 256
status of, 60, 66, 186, 245
very fatty (otoro), 246, 247
yellowfin, 245, 251
turbot. See flatfish
U
umami, 23, 39, 84, 117, 146, 195, 242
unagi (freshwater eels), 225, 227–28
uni (sea urchins), 45, 279–81, 319
ura-maki. See inside-out rolls
V
Vega, Alexa, 221
vegetables, pickled, 67
vegetarianism, 16
vinegar. See also rice vinegar marinating fish in, 142–46
vitamin B1, 35
W
Walton, Luke, 58
Warner, Jerry, 298–99, 300
wasabi, 26, 61, 150, 160–63, 277, 320–21, 322
wave cut (namagiri), 233, 235
whitebait (shirauo), 66
Wisner, Marcos, 75, 87, 93, 118–19, 126, 158, 190, 210, 211, 212–13, 230, 235, 243, 254, 260, 277, 278, 292–93, 301–3, 315
background of, 68
catered events and, 68–69, 70, 212, 213, 217–21
creative roll devised by, 163, 165, 167–68
student lunch counter and, 131, 139–41, 175, 176–77
Wolf, Harry, 45
women, 52–59
dining on their own, 53–54, 317
as sushi chefs, 5, 51, 52–53, 54–59, 115, 169–70, 311
World War II, 40, 66–67, 79
worms:
evolution of, 114, 116, 201–2
parasitic, 143–44, 149, 179, 198, 254
Woytisek, Ken, 299, 300
Y
yeasts, 14, 15–16, 29
yellowfin tuna, 245, 251. See also tuna
yellowtail (buri, hamachi, or kanpachi), 154, 197–205, 232
farmed, 198–200
scales of, 200–202
stages of, 197–98
sushi and sashimi, 204–5
Yohei Sushi, Edo (Tokyo), 77–78
Yuyama, Reiko, 53–54
yuzu, 195
Z
Zen gardens, 152
ZeroSushi, 315
About the Author
The author of The Secret Life of Lobsters. TREVOR CORSON has studied philosophy in China, resided in Buddhist temples in Japan, and worked on commercial fishing boats off the Maine coast. He has written for the Atlantic Monthly and the New York Times and is the only “sushi concierge” in the United States. He lives in New York City.
Visit www.AuthorTracker.com for exclusive information on your favorite HarperCollins author.
PRAISE FOR Trevor Corson and The Story of Sushi
(Previously titled The Zen of Fish)
“Rarely has a Westerner written so knowledgeably, or entertainingly, about the subject [of sushi]…. An expert’s command…. The reader emerges not only enlightened but a much better sushi eater.”
—New York Times
“A clever narrative strategy—the reader learns the practice and history of sushi alongside the students…. Authoritative, often amusing, chapters on sushi history, marine biology, and the physiognomy of taste. While the students hack away at mackerel, Corson serves up bite-size explanations of the invention of soy sauce, the sex life of red algae, and the importance of umami, that mysterious fifth taste that underlies so much of Eastern cuisine. His chapter on rice, a subject that Americans take for granted, is itself worth the price of the book.”
—New York Times Book Review (Editor’s Choice)
“Riveting…. Corson beautifully intersperses the drama with lessons about the history and science of each fish…along with the rice and wasabi…. Foodies will find dozens of useful tips to enhance their appreciation of ‘the fast food of old Tokyo.’…The combination of culinary insights and personal drama makes for one of the more compelling food-themed books in recent years.”
—Publishers Weekly (starred review)
“A meticulously reported account…chock-full of great tidbits, revelatory findings, and amazing science. What could have been a dry sushi treatise is instead turned into a compelling read by the writer’s inventive narrative approach…. Corson proves a master at providing a nonstop banquet of tasty morsels sure to delight anyone who has taken a seat at a sushi bar.”
—Seattle Post-Intelligencer
“An amicably told tale that takes a quirky, humanistic, and mostly nonlinear approach to the story of sushi…. [The reporting]
technique creates an immediate, and lasting, respect for the author’s narrative purity…. Corson’s work mimics an omakase meal, which signals to the chef that you are in his or her hands, guiding the reader on a mostly enjoyable, sometimes delightful journey through sushi land…. Corson also possesses a touch of the poetic, visible in beautiful sentiments.”
—San Francisco Chronicle Book Review
“The action…is fast and furious and should keep you flipping pages. If scenes of fish gutting doesn’t keep you riveted, then women fighting for equality in a man’s world might. Anyway, the catering jobs to Hollywood sets will definitely do so. [The Story of Sushi] is an excellent example of the narrative nonfiction style of writing.”
—Santa Cruz Sentinel
“Fun, even sumptuous, and occasionally touching…. I was enchanted with how this tale unfolds…. [The Story of Sushi] is a highly readable field guide to sushi, beginning to end. Corson is a fine nature writer, a thorough and compassionate researcher with a well-honed literary voice…. This is a gem of a book for food lovers who care about their sources. It should be required reading for every chef and aspiring chef in North America.”