Lonely Planet Buenos Aires

by Lonely Planet

  PanoramaCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4806-0282; www.pnrm.com.ar; República de la India 2905; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat; bLínea D Plaza Italia)

  About 20 emerging young designers are showcased at this small, upscale store in Palermo Chico. Peruse the clothing racks for one-of-a-kind, eclectic tops, pants, dresses and coats that can be definite show-stoppers. Small sizes dominate, though custom orders are possible. There are also a few accessories and shoes.

  Paseo AlcortaMALL

  (Alcorta Shopping; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5777-6500; www.alcortashopping.com.ar; Jerónimo Salguero 3172; h10am-10pm; Wc; g130, 33, 93)

  At this large, upscale shopping mall all the popular Argentine women’s clothing shops are represented, as are international brands such as Adidas, Nike and Lacoste. Other stores sell leather goods, kids’ clothes, men’s designs, sportswear and accessories. There’s also a large food court and a children’s play area.

  Feria Plaza SerranoMARKET

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Honduras & Jorge Luis Borges; h10am-8pm Sat & Sun; g140, 141, 34)

  Costume jewelry, hand-knit tops, hippie bags, mate gourds, leather accessories and much more fill the craft booths at this popular street fair on Plaza Serrano (also known as Plaza Cortázar). It’s not huge, but the plaza is close to Palermo’s nightlife and surrounded by bars, restaurants and stores.

  Harapos PatagoniaGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-2058-7810; www.harapospatagonia.com.ar; Serrano 1542; h11am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, 2-7:30pm Sun; g140, 141, 110)

  Can't make it all the way to Patagonia? Just visit this small store to grab a southern souvenir. There are woolen goods (sheep are big down there), handmade ceramics, wooden utensils and silver and alpaca jewelry. All products are made by Patagonian craftspeople.

  Alto PalermoMALL

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5777-8000; www.altopalermo.com.ar; Av Santa Fe 3253; h10am-10pm; bLínea D Bulnes)

  Smack bang on bustling Av Santa Fe, this popular, shiny mall offers dozens of clothing shops, bookstores, jewelry boutiques, and electronics and housewares stores. Look for local brands Complot, Ayres and Ay Not Dead. Services include a food court, a cinema complex and a good kids’ area on the 3rd floor.

  BA'S EMERGING DESIGNERS

  One of the most notable transitions in Buenos Aires fashion in the last few years is the growing prominence of emerging designers. Based mostly out of private homes and apartments, known locally as 'showrooms,' a young community of recent fashion-school grads and 20-somethings with an entrepreneurial spirit are taking over BA’s inventive design world. Initiatives by the Buenos Aires City government, such as competitions including IncuBA and La Ciudad de Moda (which allowed several of the most promising emerging designers to stage runway shows at Buenos Aires Fashion Week), have given the industry the boost it desperately needs to make BA one of the most intriguing fashion hot spots in Latin America. Whether you’re on the hunt for casual street wear, luxurious leather or innovative jewelry design, BA’s best emerging designers take pride in their originality and skilled craftsmanship.

  When it comes to clothing design, names like Belén Amigo (www.underboutique.com) and Bianca Siconolfi of Blackmamba are capturing stylish locals with their alternative, street-chic designs that range from Siconolfi's exquisite leather pieces to Amigo’s tailored pants and drapey silk organza tops. For more comfy casual wear, stop in at Deleon’s (www.deleonba.com) Palermo Hollywood showroom, a destination for young fashionable locals looking to expand their collection of urban cool garments that scream sophistication.

  Yet another exciting fresh face in BA’s emerging fashion scene is Julia Schang-Viton (www.schangviton.com), a young design prodigy whose structured, architectural cuts and neutral color palette draw upon her Asian heritage.

  In the world of jewelry, Inés Bonadeo (www.inesbonadeo.com.ar), a metal-working craftswoman who has shown her work in New York at the international design fair NY Now, can’t be missed.

  While popular among locals, shopping in showrooms can prove intimidating for visitors. To gain access to these hidden treasures, it takes some local knowledge and the right connections. Thankfully, a few ambitious expats are giving tourists the chance to discover the exciting world of BA's emerging design through personalized shopping tours that will take you to some of the most notable showrooms in town, as well as the hippest open-door boutiques. Sophie Lloyd at ShopHopBA (www.shop-buenosaires.com) is the perfect option for those looking to get inside the city’s exclusive showrooms. Warm, welcoming and knowledgeable, Sophie's tours include champagne toasts and privately catered lunches, and she also offers personal color consultations to those in need of a wardrobe makeover. Vanessa Bell at Creme de la Creme (www.cremedelacreme.com.ar) is known for her extensive contacts and excellent taste.

  Natalie Schreyer is a fashion writer and resident of Buenos Aires. She is the creator of www.bashopgirl.com, a fashion blog covering BA’s best emerging designers. In addition to her blog, she has written for LandingPadBA.com.

  2Sports & Activities

  oBar du MarchéWINE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4778-1050; www.bardumarchepalermo.com; Nicaragua 5946; tasting AR$195; h9:30am-midnight Mon-Sat; bLínea D Ministro Carranza)

  This small, upscale and French-inspired bistro is a great place for wine by the glass; the sommelier can fill you in on the 50 varieties on offer. Wine tastings are from 5pm to 8pm daily and – at AR$195 for three small glasses paired with specialty cheeses – are good value.

  oBuenos Aires Fútbol AmigosFOOTBALL

  (BAFA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fcbafa.com; El Salvador 5301; per game AR$100; hgames 5-9pm Wed-Mon; bLínea D Plaza Italia)

  Friendly five-aside soccer games for men and women with a mixture of locals and foreigners at pitches in Palermo and Villa Crespo. All levels are welcome and it's a great way to meet people and counteract all the meat consumption while playing the city's best-loved sport. Sign up for games in advance via the website. Game times and locations vary.

  Pain et VinWINE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-5654; www.facebook.com/painevin/; Gorriti 5132; tastings per person AR$400; hnoon-10pm Tue-Sat, to 7pm Sun; g140, 34, 111)

  An inviting spot to try some wines by the glass in a contemporary, airy setting. Book in advance for tastings (in English) which include a detailed talk about the wines, four tasting glasses and a cheese and charcuterie board with freshly baked bread. A few gourmet sandwiches are available, too. Check the Facebook page for special tastings from particular vineyards.

  Argentine ExperienceFOOD

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4778-0913; www.theargentineexperience.com; Fitz Roy 2110; US$89-115; h6:30-11:30pm Mon-Sat; mLínea D Palermo)

  Learn the meaning of local hand gestures, the story of Argentina’s beef and how to make empanadas (a pastry turnover filled with a variety of savoury ingredients and baked or fried) and alfajores (cookie sandwiches) at an interactive dinner party where the main course is a supremely tender steak. Book in advance.

  Norma SouedCOOKING

  (%011-15-4470-2267; www.argentinecookingclasses.com; Palermo; per person US$65-85; h10:30am-1pm Tue & Thu, 11am-2pm Sat; bLínea D Olleros)

  At her Palermo home, Norma will teach you the basics of how to prepare typical Argentine food such as empanadas, traditional stews and alfajores. The exact address is given when you book.

  Buena Onda YogaYOGA

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.buenaondayoga.net; Thames 1916; class US$14; bLínea D Plaza Italia)

  Vinyasa flow and yin yoga classes taught in English; see the website for the current schedule. Classes also held in San Telmo and Villa Crespo.

  Street Art

  Buenos Aires’ turbulent history, its passion and its creativity have driven the growth of an internationally acclaimed street-art scene.

  In the years following the 2001 economic crisis a generation of artists took to the streets to reclaim public spaces. At first graffiti and stencils delivered scathing criticisms of the governmen
t, then gradually a new style began to emerge, bringing humor, color and creative experimentation. Stencil artists, graffiti writers, activists and art collectives began to work together, giving the city walls a new role: channeling artistic expression. Out of a dark period of political and social upheaval, a vibrant new art movement was born.

  Mural by Gaia & Nanook | GRAFFITIMUNDO ©

  Graffiti in Buenos Aires incorporates a dizzying array of techniques and styles and is found everywhere from sidewalks and shutters to garbage cans and towering walls. Huge-scale murals reflect both the talents of local artists and the tolerance their work enjoys. It’s not unusual to find artists creating enormous, detailed pieces in broad daylight, and they travel from across the world to experience the freedom of painting BA’s streets. Look out for works by Martin Ron, including his surrealist work The Parrots’ Tale in Villa Urquiza and Pedro Lujan and his Dog in the southern neighborhood of Barracas.

  Mural by Martin Ron | GRAFFITIMUNDO ©

  To check out works from some of the scene’s leading artists head to Post Street Bar, a Palermo bar covered in stencils. There’s a gallery at the back that specializes in street art.

  Graffiti in Post Street Bar, Palermo | POST STREET BAR ©

  To learn more and see some of the city’s most impressive art, why not take a graffiti tour? Graffitimundo and Buenos Aires Street Art are two organizations that work closely with leading local artists. Reserve a spot on one of their tours and venture off the beaten track to discover spectacular murals and the hidden history of this remarkable scene.

  South of Palermo

  Sights

  Eating

  Drinking & Nightlife

  Entertainment

  Shopping

  Sports & Activities

  South of Palermo

  Neighborhood Top Five

  1Museo Casa Carlos Gardel Learning about tango's most famous singer via his old recordings, news clippings and personal items at this small museum located at the very house he used to live in.

  2La Bomba de Tiempo Dancing it up at Monday night's drumming parties at the Ciudad Cultural Konex.

  3La Catedral Dancing tango at BA's most bohemian milonga, after taking a class at DNI Tango nearby.

  4Mercado de Abasto Visiting this impressive, gorgeously remodeled shopping center.

  5Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales Wandering among old skeletons, taxidermy rooms and natural-science exhibits.

  Explore: South of Palermo

  There are just a few interesting sights dotting the map in these refreshingly local neighborhoods. Start in Villa Crespo, a good area for outlet shopping that's also home to several casual but excellent restaurants. A short walk south is Caballito, a pleasant neighborhood that's home to the circular Parque Centenario. The main sight here is the Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales, a good natural-science museum that’s worth a peek for its musty taxidermy and cool skeleton room.

  East of Villa Crespo are the Abasto and Once (pronounced ‘ohn-seh’) neighborhoods, both melting-pot destinations that have attracted sizable populations of Jews, Peruvians and Koreans – and their respective ethnic cuisines as well. The main attraction in Abasto is the Mercado de Abasto, one of the city’s most attractive shopping malls. On a side street just east of the mall, look for a small statue of Carlos Gardel, the famous tango singer who lived in this neighborhood; four blocks northeast is the Museo Casa Carlos Gardel, a museum in his former home. Many alternative theaters can also be found in this area.

  East of Abasto is Once and its bustling train station, surrounded by hundreds of street vendors selling all manner of garments and cheap electronic devices. There’s a colorful feel to this gritty, commercial pocket. Nearby Once are the bohemian neighborhoods of Almagro and Boedo. The intersection of Av San Juan and Boedo is especially historic and right on the Subte line.

  Local Life

  AParklife For a condensed dose of local life head to Parque Centenario, the circular park at the geographical center of the city. It's always busy here; you'll see families out with their dogs, people jogging and doing yoga, and plenty of mates and guitars.

  AHanging out Local señoras take a break at Las Violetas, quite possibly the most beautiful traditional cafe in Buenos Aires.

  AEating Classic neighborhood eateries such as Café Margot will take you back in time.

  ATheater Artsy porteños head to one of the many alternative theater productions going on in Almagro.

  Getting There & Away

  ABus From Plaza de Mayo take bus 140 to Villa Crespo and Almagro, bus 26 to Once, bus 132 to Caballito and bus 126 to Boedo.

  ASubte Líneas A, B and E are the fastest way to these neighborhoods.

  Lonely Planet's Top Tip

  Consider finding a place to stay in Villa Crespo or Almagro, the neighborhoods just south of Palermo. New restaurants, bars and guesthouses are opening here as rents become too expensive for many businesses in Palermo, but the nightlife and sights of the better-known neighborhood are often within walking distance.

  Best Places to Eat

  A i Latina

  A Guarda la Vieja

  A Sarkis

  A Café Crespin

  Best Places to Drink

  A Las Violetas

  A 878

  A El Bandarín

  Best Entertainment

  A La Catedral

  A La Bomba de Tiempo

  A Complejo Tango

  1Sights

  These neighborhoods aren't packed with must-see sights, but there are a few interesting galleries and museums and some impressive architecture to see. The real attraction here is the local flavor – soak it up by exploring the streets on foot or by bike.

  Mercado de AbastoNOTABLE BUILDING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4959-3400; www.abasto-shopping.com.ar; Av Corrientes 3247; h10am-10pm; bLínea B Carlos Gardel)

  The historic Mercado de Abasto (1895) has been turned into one of the most beautiful shopping centers in the city. The building, once a large vegetable market, received an architectural prize in 1937 for its Av Corrientes facade. It holds more than 200 stores, a large cinema, a food court and the only kosher McDonald’s outside Israel (the one upstairs and next to Burger King). It’s great for families, with a good children’s museum and even a small amusement park.

  Museo Casa Carlos GardelMUSEUM

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4964-2071; www.facebook.com/carlitosrgardel/; Jean Jaurés 735; AR$10; h11am-6pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun; bLínea B Carlos Gardel)

  Small but noteworthy is this tribute to tango's most famous voice. Located in Gardel’s old house, this museum traces his partnership with José Razzano and displays old memorabilia including photos, records and news clippings. There isn’t a whole lot to see inside but the house itself – a typical chorizo-style residence with rooms leading off a central patio – is worth a look.

  Carlos Gardel StatueMONUMENT

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Av Anchorena; bLínea B Carlos Gardel)

  The Abasto neighborhood was once home to tango legend Carlos Gardel, and on this cobbled street off Av Anchorena is a statue of the singer.

  Casa BrandonCULTURAL CENTER

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4858-0610; www.brandongayday.com.ar; Luis Maria Drago 236; h8pm-3am Wed-Sun; bLínea B Ángel Gallardo)

  Located in Villa Crespo, this meeting spot is so much more than a bar. The concept at Casa Brandon is to promote art in the context of sexual diversity. There’s an art gallery that showcases paintings and photographs, and you can watch movies or take in a live music performance. And for those who need a bit more excitement, there are karaoke and drag party nights.

  Museo Argentino de Ciencias NaturalesMUSEUM

  (Natural Science Museum; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4982-6595; www.macn.gov.ar; Av Ángel Gallardo 490; AR$25; h2-7pm; c; bLínea B Ángel Gallardo)

  In the geographical center of the city at circular Parque Centenario is this excellent natural-science museum. On display are large collections o
f meteorites, rocks and minerals, Argentine seashells, insects and dinosaur-skeleton replicas. The taxidermy and skeleton rooms are especially good. Bring the kids; they can mingle with the hundreds of children who visit on school excursions.

  Observatorio AstronómicoOBSERVATORY

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4863-3366; www.asaramas.com.ar; Av Patricias Argentinas 550; guided observation AR$50; bLínea B Ángel Gallardo)

  This observatory offers one-hour telescopic stargazing sessions. Call or check the website before your visit, as observation hours change depending on the season.

  CARLOS GARDEL

  In June 1935 a Cuban woman committed suicide in Havana; meanwhile, in New York and Puerto Rico two other women tried to poison themselves. It was all over the same man – tango singer Carlos Gardel, who had just died in a plane crash in Colombia.

  Gardel was born in France, and when he was three his destitute single mother brought him to Buenos Aires. In his youth he entertained neighbors with his rapturous singing, then went on to establish a successful performing career.

  Gardel played an enormous role in creating the tango canción (song) and almost single-handedly took the style out of Buenos Aires’ tenements and brought it to Paris and New York. His crooning voice, suaveness and overall charisma made him an immediate success in Latin American countries – a rising star during tango’s golden years of the 1920s and 1930s. Unfortunately, Gardel’s later film career was tragically cut short by that fatal plane crash.