Lonely Planet Buenos Aires
Page 25
ABoat Sturla Viajes ( GOOGLE MAP ; %in BA 011-4314-8555, in Tigre 011-4731-1300; www.sturlaviajes.com.ar; Ceclilia Grierson 400; one-way/return AR$450/590; g92, 106) You can take the Sturla boat straight to Tigre from Puerto Madero. Boats leave Puerto Madero at 10am (journey time two hours) and make the return trip from Tigre's Estación Fluvial at 4pm.
Need to Know
Area Code 011 ALocation 35km northwest of Buenos Aires
A Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4512-4497; www.vivitigre.gov.ar; Bartolomé Mitre 305; h9am-6pm)
1Sights
Tigre city itself is very walkable and its main sights are easily reached on foot.
Museo de Arte TigreMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4512-4528; www.mat.gov.ar; Paseo Victorica 972; AR$40; h9am-7pm Wed-Fri, noon-7pm Sat & Sun)
Tigre’s grandest museum is located in a magnificent 1912 social club. Inside, it showcases the work of famous Argentine artists from the 19th and 20th centuries. Perched on the river bank in glorious grounds, the building in itself is worth a visit. Guided tours in Spanish are given at 11am and 5pm Wednesday to Friday and more frequently on weekends.
Museo NavalMUSEUM
(Naval Museum; GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4749-0608; Paseo Victorica 602; AR$20; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-6:30pm Sat & Sun)
This worthwhile museum traces the history of the Argentine navy with an eclectic mix of historical photos, old maps, artillery displays and pickled sea critters. The intricate scale models of various naval ships are particularly impressive.
Puerto de FrutosMARKET
( GOOGLE MAP ; Sarmiento 160; h10am-6pm)
At this popular market, vendors sell homewares, furniture, wicker baskets, souvenirs and knickknacks; there are restaurants too. Weekends are busiest.
Parque de la CostaAMUSEMENT PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4002-6000; www.parquedelacosta.com.ar; Vivanco 1509; AR$285; h11am-6pm Fri, to 7:15pm Sat & Sun)
Near to Puerto de Frutos is Tigre’s amusement park with some fun attractions including roller-coaster rides and waterslides.
Museo del MateMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4506-9594; www.elmuseodelmate.com; Lavalle 289; AR$50; h11am-6pm Wed-Sun)
This niche museum with over 2000 items (mostly mate gourds) is dedicated to the national drink. The visit begins with a short film explaining the history of mate and Argentinian yerba production.
DELTA BOAT TRIPS
To explore the swampy waters of the delta, you'll need to get out in a boat. Frequent commuter launches depart from Estación Fluvial, behind the tourist office, for various destinations in the delta (AR$70 to AR$190 one-way). A popular destination is the Tres Bocas neighborhood, a half-hour boat ride from Tigre, where you can take residential walks on thin paths connected by bridges over narrow channels. There are several restaurants and accommodations here. The Rama Negra area has a quieter and more natural setting with fewer services, but is an hour’s boat ride away.
Several companies offer inexpensive boat tours, but commuter launches give you flexibility if you want to go for a stroll or stop for lunch at one of the delta’s restaurants.
5Eating
oBoulevard Sáenz PeñaINTERNATIONAL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5197-4776; www.boulevardsaenzpena.com.ar; Blvd Sáenz Peña 1400; mains AR$155-190; h10:30am-7pm Wed-Sat, to 5pm Sun)
Occupying a prime corner spot on an attractive avenue is this appealing cafe serving salads, sandwiches, coffee and cakes. Inside, it's spacious, modern and airy with plenty of contemporary design touches, but you'll want to bag a table on the outdoor patio, beneath the ivy and surrounded by plants. There's also a shop here, selling art, books and homewares.
Almacén de TigreARGENTINE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5197-4009; www.facebook.com/almacendeflorescafeboutiquetigre; Blvd Sáenz Peña 1336; mains AR$98-185; h9:30am-7pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
Serves a tempting range of healthy soups, salads, sandwiches and bigger mains such as lasagne and milanesas (breaded meat cutlets), as well as homemade cakes.
Maria LujánARGENTINE$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4731-9613; www.ilnovomariadellujan.com; Paseo Victorica 611; mains AR$190-355; h8:30am-midnight)
For an upscale meal on Paseo Victorica, the city’s pleasant riverside avenue, try Maria Luján, which has a gorgeous shady patio. Serves the usual Argentinian fare – grilled meats, homemade pastas – as well as a number of seafood dishes.
2Sports & Activities
El Dorado KayakKAYAKING
(%011-4039-5858; www.eldoradokayak.com; full day AR$900)
Kayaking tours deep inside the delta; all equipment and lunch included. Also offers full-moon night kayaking trips.
Bonanza DeltaventuraADVENTURE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4409-6967; www.deltaventura.com; Stand 16, Estación Fluvial, Bartolomé Mitre 305; h9am-5pm)
Adventures include canoe trips, guided nature walks and horseback rides. Also offers overnight accommodations. Located a one-hour boat ride from Tigre.
4Sleeping
Posada de 1860HOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4749-4034; http://hotelposada1860.com.ar; Av Libertador San Martín 190; d Mon-Thu US$65, Fri-Sun US$78, extra bed US$10; aiW)
This well-run hotel has eight simple but good-value rooms. Spacious common areas give the place a homey feel; there's a kitchen, plenty of dining space indoors and out on the deck, and a parrilla (grill) in the garden for asados (barbecues). Rooms can sleep up to six people, making this a good choice for families or small groups.
Casona La RuchiGUESTHOUSE$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4749-2499; www.casonalaruchi.com.ar; Lavalle 557; d/tr with shared bath US$80/90; iWs)
This family-run guesthouse is in a beautiful old 1893 mansion. Most of the four romantic bedrooms have balconies; all have shared bathrooms with original tiled floors. There’s a pool and large garden out back.
San Isidro
Explore
About 20km north of Buenos Aires is peaceful and residential San Isidro, a salubrious suburb of leafy cobblestone streets lined with some luxurious mansions, as well as more modest houses. The historic center is at Plaza Mitre with its beautiful neo-Gothic cathedral; on weekends the area buzzes with a crafts fair. There are a number of worthwhile museums with sweeping river views that make for a pleasant day trip from the city. The suburb is easily reached by train from Buenos Aires; it's also possible to stop here on the way to or from Tigre.
San Isidro is steeped in history dating back to the first settlement of Buenos Aires in 1580, when Juan de Garay divided a 20km stretch of coastline into narrow strips of land that were divvied up among the group of 40 who had made the journey from Spain.
The Best...
ASight Villa Ocampo
APlace to Eat Bruna
APlace to Drink Perú Beach
Top Tip
Don't miss the views of the Río de la Plata from the gardens of Quinta Los Ombúes.
Getting There & Away
ATrain The Tigre branch of the Mitre line train from Retiro stops at San Isidro and Beccar stations (with/without SUBE card AR$5/12, 35 minutes). The most scenic way to reach San Isidro is via the Tren de la Costa, whose southernmost station (Maipú) is in the suburb of Olivos. The Mitre train from Retiro will take you to Maipú (get off at Mitre station at the end of the line and cross the pedestrian bridge to Maipú).
ABus Certain branches of the 60 bus go to San Isidro via Plaza Italia in Palermo; the route you need is 'Alto Tigre por Bajo San Isidro'; check with the driver.
Need to Know
Area Code 011 ALocation 20km north of Buenos Aires
1Sights
oVilla OcampoMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4732-4988; www.villaocampo.org/web/; Elortondo 1837; AR$50; h12:30-7pm Wed-Sun, guided tours 3pm & 4:30pm; dBeccar)
This beautifully restored mansion and Unesco-protected site was once the home of Victoria Ocampo (1890–1979), a feminist writer, publisher and intellectual who founde
d the magazine Sur. It's worth timing your visit to coincide with one of the excellent guided tours (in English and Spanish) of the property, which once hosted the likes of Graham Greene, Albert Camus, Le Corbusier and Pablo Neruda. There's also a pleasant cafe serving lunch until 3:30pm and then afternoon tea.
oMuseo PueyrredonMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4512-3131; www.museopueyrredon.org.ar; Rivera Indarte 48; h10am-6pm Tue-Thu, 2-8pm Sat & Sun; dSan Isidro)F
This colonial villa was once the home of revolutionary hero General Juan Martín de Pueyrredón. Inside the building has been beautifully preserved and contains historical displays and re-creations of the colonial-era kitchen, living room, bedroom and dining room complete with period furniture and historical portraits. The glorious gardens have sweeping views down to the river. Note the algarrobo (carob tree) under which Pueyrredón and José de San Martín planned battle strategies against the Spanish during the wars of independence.
To get here from the cathedral, walk five blocks south down Av Libertador, turn left onto Sáenz Peña and after two blocks turn right onto Rivera Indarte.
Quinta Los OmbúesMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.quintalosombues.com.ar; Adrián Beccar Varela 774; h10am-6pm Tue & Thu, 2-6pm Sat & Sun; dSan Isidro)F
This beautiful quinta (country house) is now a museum that's worth a look. The rooms leading off the Spanish-style central patio contain period furniture and antiques as well as a few of the personal belongings of the house's most celebrated former resident, Mariquita Sánchez de Thompson. It was here in 1813 that Sánchez is said to have sung the first ever rendition of the Marcha Patriótica (now the Argentinian national anthem). Don't miss the impeccably maintained gardens with river views.
WORTH A DETOUR
PERú BEACH
If you're keen to do some water sports – or simply sit by the river and watch – head to Perú Beach ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4798-4642; www.peru-beach.com.ar; Sebastián Elcano 794; hwater sports 10am-6pm Tue-Sun; dTren de la Costa Barrancas). This riverside sports complex offers windsurfing, kitesurfing, stand-up paddle and kayaking equipment hire and instruction (book online in advance). There’s also a grassy lawn and outdoor tables for refreshments – great on a sunny day. Perú Beach is located in Acassuso, just across from the Tren de la Costa’s Barrancas station. This is the station before San Isidro as you travel from Buenos Aires on the Tren de la Costa, making it a convenient place to stop. It’s more of a social scene than anything else, and families are welcome.
5Eating
BrunaINTERNATIONAL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4743-3390; www.facebook.com/BrunaDelBajo/; Juan Bautista de Lasalle 433; mains AR$90-200; h9:30am-midnight Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun; W; dSan Isidro)
Bright and sunny restaurant with beachy white furniture and a pretty outdoor patio serving decent burgers, sandwiches, salads and classic mains such as milanesas (breaded meat cutlets) and grilled salmon. Portion sizes are generous. Good in-house lemonade, too.
San Antonio de Areco
Explore
San Antonio de Areco is the prettiest town in the pampas. Located 113km northwest of Buenos Aires, it welcomes many day-tripping porteños (residents of capital) who come for the peaceful atmosphere and picturesque colonial streets. The town dates from the early 18th century and preserves many gaucho and criollo traditions, including the fine silverwork and saddlery of its artisans. Gauchos from all over the pampas gather here for November’s Día de la Tradición (www.sanantoniodeareco.com; hNov), when you can catch them, and their horses, strutting the cobbled streets in all their finery.
San Antonio de Areco’s compact town center and quiet streets are very walkable. Around the Plaza Ruiz de Arellano, named in honor of the town’s founding estanciero (ranch owner), are several historic buildings, including the iglesia parroquial (parish church).
Like many other small towns in this part of Argentina, Areco shuts down during the afternoon siesta.
The Best…
ASight Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes
APlace to Eat Almacén Ramos Generales
APlace to Drink Boliche de Bessonart
Top Tip
If you're here in early to mid-November, don't miss the Día de la Tradición, when the town puts on the country's biggest gaucho celebration.
Getting There & Away
ABus Areco's bus terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Av Dr Smith & Gral Paz) is five blocks east of the central square. Chevallier ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02326-453904; www.nuevachevallier.com; Av Dr Smith & Gral Paz) runs frequent buses to/from Buenos Aires (AR$130, two hours).
AShuttle A useful option if you're trying to connect to one of the area's estancias (ranches) is the shuttle services operated by independent companies like Areco Bus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.arecobus.com.ar; round-trip AR$650; hSat & Sun). Check the website for the latest itineraries and to make reservations.
Need to Know
Area Code 02326 ALocation 115km northwest of Buenos Aires
A Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02326-453165; www.sanantoniodeareco.com; cnr Zerboni & Arellano; h8am-8pm)
San Antonio de Areco
1Top Sights
1Museo Gauchesco Ricardo GüiraldesA1
1Sights
2Museo Las Lilas de ArecoB3
3Museo y Taller de Platería DraghiB2
4Puente ViejoB1
Eating & Drinking
5Almacén Los PrincipiosB2
6Almacén Ramos GeneralesC2
7Boliche de BessonartC2
8La Esquina de MertiC2
9La Olla de CobreB2
4Sleeping
10Antigua CasonaC2
11Estancia La CinacinaA2
12Paradores DraghiB2
13Patio de MorenoB3
Transport
14Areco BusB2
15ChevallierD2
16Terminal de ÓmnibusD2
1Sights
oMuseo Gauchesco Ricardo GüiraldesMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02326-455839; www.facebook.com/museoguiraldes/; Camino Ricardo Güiraldes; h10am-5pm)F
This sprawling museum in Parque Criollo dates from 1936 and is largely dedicated to Ricardo Güiraldes, author of the novel Don Segundo Sombra, and local gaucho history and culture in general. The entrance is in a re-created pulpería (tavern), set up as it would have been when it first opened in 1850, while the museum's main displays are housed in a 20th-century reproduction of an 18th-century casco (ranch house). Guided tours are offered at 11am and 3pm.
Museo Las Lilas de ArecoMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02326-456425; www.museolaslilas.org; Moreno 279; AR$100; h10am-6pm Thu, to 8pm Fri-Sun)
Florencio Molina Campos is to Argentines what Norman Rockwell is to Americans – a folk artist whose themes are based on comical caricatures. This pretty courtyard museum displays an extensive collection of his famous works. As well as the gallery there is also a Sala de Carruajes (carriage room) to look at and a gaucho-themed sound-and-light show.
Stop for a coffee or a slice of homemade cake at the museum's cafe.
Museo y Taller de Platería DraghiMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.draghiplaterosorfebres.com; Lavalle 387; AR$75; h10am-2:30pm & 4-6:30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun)
This small museum contains an exceptional collection of 19th-century silver facones (gaucho knives), beautiful horse gear and intricate mate paraphernalia. It's attached to the silversmith workshop of the locally renowned Draghi family. Tours in English and Spanish of the museum and workshop are on Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 11am. Mariano Draghi's jewelry and silverwork are for sale in the attached shop.
Puente ViejoBRIDGE
(Old Bridge; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The pink puente viejo (old bridge) spanning the Río Areco dates from 1857 and follows the original cart road to northern Argentina. Once a toll crossing, it’s now a pedestrian bridge leading to San Antonio de Areco’s main attraction, the Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes.
THE GLORIOUS GAUCHO
; If the melancholy tanguero (tango dancer) is the essence of the porteño (resident of Buenos Aires), then the gaucho represents the pampas: a nomadic cowboy-like figure, pitted against the elements, with only his horse for a friend.
In the early years of the colony, the fringe-dwelling gauchos lived entirely beyond the laws and customs of Buenos Aires, eking out an independent and often violent existence in the countryside. They slaughtered the cattle that roamed free and unsupervised on the fertile grasslands and drank mate, the caffeine-rich herbal tea.
As Argentina grew, cattle became too valuable to leave unprotected. Foreign demand for hides increased and investors moved into the pampas to take control of the market, establishing the estancia (ranch) system in which large landholdings were handed out to a privileged few. Many freewheeling gauchos became exploited farmhands, while those who resisted domestication were threatened with prison or the draft.
Like so many heroes, the gaucho only won love and admiration after his demise. His physical bravery, honor and lust for freedom are celebrated in José Hernández’s 1872 epic poem Martin Fierro and Ricardo Güiraldes’ novel Don Segundo Sombra. His rustic traditions form part of Argentina’s sophisticated folk art, with skilled craftspeople producing intricate silver gaucho knives and woven ponchos, while his image is endlessly reproduced – most amusingly in Florencio Molina Campos’ caricatures.