Lonely Planet Buenos Aires

by Lonely Planet

  Incorporating three spacious suites and a cozy 'garden house,' this is one of Colonia's most unique lodging options, abounding in homey features such as armchairs, colorful carpets, flat-screen TVs, well-equipped kitchenettes, local artwork and a woodstove in one unit. Enhancing the charm is La Taza de Té ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lavalleja 169; afternoon tea for 2 UR$640; h1:30-7pm), an on-site tearoom serving crepes, blinis, cakes and afternoon tea.

  4Sleeping

  Buenos Aires may be the city that never sleeps – but really, who doesn't need a bit of rest once in a while? You'll find a wide range of places to rest your head here, from hostels to boutique hotels, guesthouses, rental apartments and international five-star hotels. Just remember to book ahead – or pay in cash – for the best deals.

  Book Your Stay Online

  For more accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet authors, check out http://lonelyplanet.com/hotels/. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.

  Rates, Discounts & Payments

  Buenos Aires is decent value compared to the USA or Europe. However, inflation has been running at 25% to 30% annually. To avoid sticker shock, double check the prices we list before reserving.

  The prices we list – particularly for the four- or five-star hotels – are generally the rack or high-season rates from November through January. Rates for top-end hotels can vary widely on any particular day, as many are dependent on how empty or full the hotel is that day. Rates can also skyrocket during holidays such as Easter, Christmas or New Year. Some places lower their rates during slow periods, while others don’t. But whatever the season, you don’t always have to pay the official posted price.

  Your best bet for getting a cheaper rate is to book in advance. You can do this via most hotels’ websites. Calling ahead and talking to a salesperson with the power to negotiate prices can also be fruitful, especially if you plan on staying more than a few days. Offering to pay in cash can also bring about a discount.

  The most expensive hotels will take credit cards, but budget or midrange places may not – or they may levy a surcharge (about 10%).

  Hostels

  Buenos Aires' hostels range from basic no-frills deals to beautiful, multi-perk buildings more luxurious than your standard cheap hotel. Most fall in between, but all have common kitchens, living areas, shared bathrooms and dorm rooms (bring earplugs). Most have a few private rooms (with or without bathroom) and provide some traveler services. BA has a few Hostelling International ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4511-8723; www.hostels.org.ar; Av Florida 835, 1st fl; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri; bLínea C San Martín) hostels, where members can get a small discount.

  Hotels

  As in many cities, BA's hotels vary from utilitarian holes-in-the-wall to luxurious five-star hotels with all the usual top-tier services. In general, hotels provide a room with private bathroom, cable TV and sometimes a phone. Cheap hotels might also have cheaper rooms with shared bathroom. Higher-end hotels may have safe boxes, a refrigerator and a desk. Some hotels have a cafe or restaurant. Staff members at tourist-oriented hotels will usually speak some English.

  Boutique Hotels & B&Bs

  The neighborhood of Palermo has dozens of boutique hotels; most are pricey but beautiful, with a handful of hip, elegant rooms and decent service. In BA, B&Bs are sometimes (but not always) run by the owners, and usually have fewer rooms than boutique hotels – but often offer a better breakfast.

  Need to Know

  Price ranges

  The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom. Unless otherwise stated, breakfast is included in the price.

  $ less than US$75

  $$ US$75–US$150

  $$$ more than US$150

  Reservations

  It's a good idea to make a reservation during any holidays or the busy summer months of November through February.

  Breakfast

  Some kind of breakfast, whether it be continental or buffet, is usually included at most accommodations. Unless you're staying somewhere fancy, however, don't expect too much – a typical breakfast will often consist of toast or medialunas (croissants), with some jam or butter if you're lucky, plus coffee or tea.

  Lonely Planet's Top Choices

  Poetry Building Lovely apartments decorated with vintage-reproduction furniture.

  Faena Hotel + Universe Unique luxury hotel located in Puerto Madero.

  Cabrera Garden Peaceful B&B boasting just three gorgeous rooms and a grassy garden.

  Magnolia Hotel Fine boutique hotel with a very relaxing rooftop terrace.

  Casa Calma Ecologically minded luxury hotel providing a paradise in BA's busy downtown.

  Best by Budget

  $

  América del Sur Five-star boutique hostel with awesome rooms and services.

  Reina Madre Hostel Very comfortable, well-run and intimate hostel.

  Palermo Viejo B&B Friendly B&B in a classic chorizo (sausage) house.

  $$

  Le Petit Palais Charming French-run little palace in a great location.

  Imagine Hotel Peaceful guesthouse with plenty of designer touches and outdoor space.

  Patios de San Telmo Historic building turned stylish boutique hotel.

  $$$

  Faena Hotel + Universe Supremely elegant and over the top – this is where celebrities stay.

  Palacio Duhau – Park Hyatt Gorgeous remodeled mansion with a stunning courtyard.

  Alvear Palace Hotel Buenos Aires' most traditional and luxurious five-star hotel.

  Best Boutique Hotels

  Magnolia Hotel Splendid boutique hotel with a very relaxing rooftop terrace.

  Imagine Hotel Cozy interior design touches and spacious gardens.

  Mansión Vitraux San Telmo's slickest spot to lay your head.

  Patios de San Telmo Plenty of outdoor space and nicely decorated rooms.

  Duque Hotel Elegant and beautiful, and there's a spa too.

  Vain Boutique Hotel One of Palermo's first boutique hotels is still going strong.

  Best Hostels

  América del Sur Well-run hostel with excellent facilities.

  Reina Madre Hostel Character-filled place with resident cat.

  V & S Hostel Club Centrally located hostel in a beautiful old building.

  Portal del Sur Laid-back place to stay with a roof terrace.

  Milhouse Youth Hostel BA's premiere party hostel.

  Best for Families

  Poetry Building Upscale apartments, all with kitchen, plus a soaking pool.

  Novotel Hotel Especially family-friendly services – including two kiddie pools.

  Hotel Lyon Simple budget lodgings with tonnes of space for large families.

  4Where to Stay

  Neighborhood For Against

  The Center Great transportation options; fairly close to all neighborhoods except Palermo; offers many services. Limited eating, shopping and nightlife options; noisy and crowded during the day and impersonal after dark.

  Puerto Madero Very safe, calm, quiet and upscale; great strolling opportunities, both in a natural reserve and along the pleasant restaurant-lined dikes. Expensive: many restaurants are overpriced; very limited public transportation, accommodations, shopping and service options and not much interesting nightlife.

  Congreso & Tribunales Reasonably central, with plenty of traditional theater and other cultural options; interesting local flavor, tending toward classic architecture and governmental vibe. Certain sections are desolate and less safe at night; limited shopping and eating possibilities.

  San Telmo Endearing traditional atmosphere, reasonable shopping and nightlife, a good range of restaurants and many decent hostels. Far from Palermo; some areas can be edgy at night; public transportation is somewhat limited.

  La Boca Not recommended and practically no accommodations options.

  Retiro Beautiful upscale neighborhood within walking distance of Recoleta and the Center; convenient for pu
blic transportation. Very expensive; limited accommodations options; not many affordable restaurants or shops.

  Recoleta & Barrio Norte Buenos Aires' most upscale neighborhood; gorgeous architecture, good transportation options and fairly safe. Most accommodations, restaurants and shopping are very expensive.

  Palermo Many boutique hotels to choose from; the city's widest range of interesting restaurants, by both cuisine and budget; great shopping and nightlife. A bit of a trek to the Center and San Telmo; might be too touristy for some.

  South of Palermo Up-and-coming neighborhoods with local atmosphere and some decent accommodations, restaurants and shops; quick access via Subte to the Center. Fewer traveler services; some neighborhoods are not central.

  4The Center

  Buenos Aires’ Center, being right in the middle of things, has the most business-type accommodations in the city. The recent pedestrianization of most of the neighborhood has made the area more pleasant to walk around and it's close to the upscale neighborhoods of Puerto Madero, Retiro and Recoleta. The Plaza de Mayo area contains the bustling banking district and many historic buildings, and is within walking distance of San Telmo.

  oPortal del SurHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4342-8788; www.portaldelsurba.com.ar; Hipólito Yrigoyen 855; dm from US$13, r with/without bath from US$44/39; aiW; bLínea A Piedras)

  Located in a charming old building, this is one of the city’s best hostels. Beautiful dorms and hotel-quality private rooms surround a central common area, which is rather dark but open. The highlight is the lovely rooftop deck with views and attached bar. A relaxed but sociable place with plenty of activities on offer including asados (barbecues) and free tango classes.

  Milhouse Youth HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4345-9604; www.milhousehostel.com; Hipólito Yrigoyen 959; dm from US$15, r from US$47; aiW; bLínea A Av de Mayo)

  BA’s premiere party hostel, this popular spot offers a plethora of activities and services. Dorms are good and private rooms can be very pleasant; most surround an appealing open patio. Common spaces include a bar-cafe (with pool table) on the ground floor, a TV lounge on the mezzanine and a rooftop terrace. A gorgeous annex building nearby offers similar services.

  V & S Hostel ClubHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4322-0994; www.hostelclub.com; Viamonte 887; dm from US$15, d from US$42; aiW; bLínea C Lavalle)S

  This attractive, central hostel is located in a pleasant older building. The common space, which is also the dining and lobby area, is good for socializing, and there's a kitchen for guests. The spacious dorms are carpeted and the private rooms are excellent; all have their own bathroom. A nice touch is the tiny outdoor patio in back.

  Goya HotelHOTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4322-9269; www.goyahotel.com.ar; Suipacha 748; s US$39-45, d US$55-60; aiW; bLínea C Lavalle)

  This family-run hotel is a good budget choice with 42 modern, comfortable and carpeted rooms. ‘Classic’ rooms are older and have open showers; ‘superior’ rooms are slicker and come with bathtubs. Pleasant breakfast room with patio; good breakfast too.

  Gran Hotel HispanoHOTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4345-2020; www.hhispano.com.ar; Av de Mayo 861; s/d/tr/q US$48/64/74/87; aiW; bLínea A Piedras)

  The tiny stairway lobby here isn’t an impressive start, but upstairs there’s a sweet atrium area with covered patio. Most rooms are carpeted; those in front are biggest, and those on the top floor are brightest and have air-con. It’s a popular, central and well-tended place, so reserve ahead. Pay in cash for a 10% discount.

  Hotel Facón GrandeHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4312-6360; www.hotelfacongrande.com; Reconquista 645; d/tr/q US$84/103/123; aiW; bLínea B Florida)

  For those seeking a touch of the country in Buenos Aires, there’s this (slightly) gaucho-themed hotel. The lobby has rustic furniture and cowhide-covered pillows, and rooms are modern and comfortable. The location is good and there’s an intimate vibe that’s rare in hotels of this size. Get a top-floor room for views. Overall, a good deal for the price.

  Hotel LafayetteHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4393-9081; www.lafayettehotel.com.ar; Reconquista 546; d US$90; aiW; bLínea B Florida)

  Spacious, elegant rooms are on offer at this comfortable, well-run downtown hotel that attracts a largely business clientele. The bathrooms are small but efficient, while double-glazed windows guarantee peace and quiet. Hotel amenities include a sauna and gym. Book ahead for the best rates.

  Claridge HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4314-2020; www.claridge.com.ar; Tucumán 535; d/ste from US$100/150; aiWs; bLínea C Lavalle)

  Behind the Claridge's grand entrance is a less high-end hotel than you might expect. Standard rooms are fine but go for a suite (some with balcony and Jacuzzi) if you want something special. The pool is only open in summer. Prices vary widely, so check beforehand.

  4Puerto Madero

  Puerto Madero is home to a few luxury chain hotels as well as the unique Faena Hotel + Universe, but is woefully short of midrange and budget sleeping options. The neighborhood is within walking distance of the Center, which has a wider range of accommodations choices.

  oFaena Hotel + UniverseHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4010-9000; www.faenahotelanduniverse.com; Martha Salotti 445; r from US$500; aiWs; g111, 43, 143)

  Located in a renovated storage mill, this Philippe Starck–designed fantasy hotel is more than just a place to stay. Traipse through the plush main hallway, lined with two top-notch restaurants, a sultry bar-lounge, a basement cabaret and – outside – a slick swimming pool. The luxurious rooms feature claw-foot beds and glass-walled bathrooms. Also has a Turkish bath and spa.

  4Congreso & Tribunales

  Congreso's hotels tend to be low-cost and often rather musty and old-fashioned, reflecting the slightly gritty, bureaucratic atmosphere of the streets around Avs Callao, Rivadavia and Corrientes.

  There are a couple of lovely boutique hotels in the area south of Av de Mayo in the non-touristy, local-feeling neighborhood of Montserrat. Bear in mind that some of the smaller streets in Congreso can feel a little desolate at night; take a taxi if you feel uncomfortable.

  Hostel EstorilHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4382-9684; www.hostelestoril3.com; Av de Mayo 1385, 1st & 6th fl; dm/s/d from US$15/33/46; aiW; bLínea A Sáenz Peña)

  This well-run hostel is located across two floors in a beautiful old building. It’s stylish and clean, with pleasant, good-sized dorms and hotel-quality doubles. There's also a decent kitchen for guests, but the hostel's biggest draw has to be the awesome rooftop terrace overlooking the Palacio Barolo and Av de Mayo; the owners organize regular asados (barbecues) and yoga classes.

  The same family runs a cheaper hostel on the 3rd floor.

  Hotel BonitoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4381-2162; www.bonitobuenosaires.com; Chile 1507, 3rd fl; r US$50-70; aiW; bLínea E Independencia)

  Lovely boutique hotel with just five artsy, gorgeous rooms mixing the traditional and contemporary. Some have loft beds and small balconies; floors are wooden or acid-finished concrete. There's a warm, homey atmosphere, with a small bar area and a good breakfast. It's in a non-touristy, very local neighborhood within walking distance of Congreso and San Telmo.

  Sabatico HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4381-1138; www.sabaticohostel.com.ar; México 1410; dm from US$15, d with shared/private bath from US$45/60; aiW; bLínea E Independencia)

  This friendly hostel is located off the beaten tourist path in an atmospheric neighborhood. Rooms are small but fine, and the pleasant common areas include a nice kitchen, dining and living room, airy patio hallways and a great rooftop terrace with hammocks, parrilla (grill) and soaking tub. There’s also a ping-pong table, bike rentals and a daily schedule of group activities.

  Hotel MarbellaHOTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4383
-8566; www.hotelmarbella.com.ar; Av de Mayo 1261; s/d/tr from US$38/50/60; aiW; bLínea A Lima)

  The carpeted rooms at this hotel are basic and rather worn, but clean – if you can stand a bit of traffic noise, try to secure one with a balcony. From here it’s an easy tramp to either Plaza del Congreso or Plaza de Mayo. Pay in cash and save 10%.

  Gran Hotel OrientalHOTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4951-6427; www.granhoteloriental.com; Bartolomé Mitre 1840; s/d US$25/32; aW; bLínea A Congreso)

  Despite its name this hotel is not grand, but it is reasonably priced. Downstairs rooms are a bit dark and have fans only (get one upstairs), and showers are small, but the simple, high-ceilinged rooms are fine for non-fussy travelers – just don’t expect many services.

  oImagine HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4383-2230; www.imaginehotelboutique.com; México 1330; d/tr from US$100/145; aiW; bLínea E Independencia)

  This beautiful guesthouse in a traditional chorizo-style house (a long, narrow sausage-like building) offers nine appealing rooms, all individually decorated with rustic, yet upscale, furniture. The rooms open onto three outdoor patios with original tiles and leafy plants; the last one has a grass lawn. It’s a peaceful little place in a non-touristy neighborhood. Fully wheelchair accessible. Reserve ahead; dog on premises.