Renovation 4th Edition
Page 45
insulation.
plumbed spirit level or board.
Drywall clips
Nail the top plate with two 16d nails per rafter
and the sole plate with two 16d nails per joist.
192 Chapter 8
Two studs, lstiburek points out, are adequate structurally and, combined
engineering studies done by the naHb research Council in the 1970s.
with r-5 foam sheathing and full-width cavities full of insulation, they will lstiburek’s article “The Future of Framing is Here” ( Fine Homebuilding eliminate cold spots and condensation. moreover, using superfluous studs
#174), in which these illustrations originally appeared, has more on the
to back drywall is not a smart choice when drywall clips (p. 431) would
subject, as does his website, www.buildingscience.com.
allow panels to float slightly and crack less.
incorporating these framing suggestions into an old-house renovation
Spacing rafters, 2x6 studs, and joists 24 in. o.c. and lining up framing
could be tricky, but they’re certainly worth considering in an addition of
members so loads are transmitted straight down to the foundation are a few any size.
things lstiburek recommends to save wood and make it easy to route
plumbing, wiring, and the like. His observations build upon optimum-value
zzzzzz a better way to Frame
Single top plate
No header in
Header hangers
nonbearing wall
eliminate jack
studs.
Rigid-foam
sheathing
Place windows
improves thermal
and doors on
performance.
stud layout.
2x6 at 24 in.
on center
Single stud at
rough openings
Rim joint
Stacked framing
For point loads,
transfers loads
the rim joist acts
directly.
as header.
Minimize stud
nailers at
intersecting walls.
Properly sized
header with foam
on interior
Two-stud corner
won't compress
No cripples
batt insulation.
under ends of
windowsill
Structural Carpentry
193
zzzzzz Sizing gable-end Studs
Rafter
X
Sole plate
X
16 in.
16 in.
After marking off 16-in. stud centers onto the
Demolition is incredibly dusty and disruptive, so seal off
sole plate, plumb up and transfer the stud marks
one room where you can store your stuff.
to the rafter or top plate. Once you’ve cut two
consecutive studs, you’ll know the difference in
length between adjacent studs, indicated by “X.”
Cut across the faces of the studs in the angle
established by the bevel gauge. To attach the
studs to the plates, toenail each end with 8d nails.
Demolition
Before demolishing an old wall, determine
whether it’s a bearing wall. If so, erect shoring if
zzzzzz Kneewalls
needed, and have a plan for rerouting electrical
cables, pipes, or heating ducts in existing walls.
Above all, shut off the electrical power before
cutting into finish surfaces—and use a voltage
tester to be sure the power is off.
geTTing readY FOr demOliTiOn
Drywall
Living in a house that’s being torn apart and ren-
ovated isn’t fun, and it can be murder on mar-
Rafter
riages. But you can minimize the stress caused
2x4 top
by disruption, noise, confusion, and dirt. If you
plate
don’t need to be around the house during the
demolition, don’t; house-sit or camp out at a rela-
2x4 stud
tive’s if you can’t afford to rent another place. But
if you must live where you renovate, create a
clean zone—usually a bedroom—in which you do
no work at all.
Isolate the zone by covering the doorway with
When nailing a kneewal top plate to the underside of a rafter, align the leading
sheet plastic held up by duct tape or by installing
edge of the top plate with the inner edge of studs. Drywal wil cover the smal
temporary plastic walls with zippered doorways
triangular voids where the plate meets the rafter.
such as the ZipWall® System. Situate your
194 Chapter 8
Shangri-La upstairs if you can because dust set-
durable cardboard) or 1⁄8-in. Masonite hardboard.
tles downward. If you are beneath a room being
A HEPA vacuum’s fine filters will capture dust,
renovated, particularly one in bad repair, tape
rather than recirculate it as ordinary shop vacs
plastic to the ceiling. In the clean zone, store
do. Disposable hooded coveralls are a good way
clothes, stereo equipment, art—anything that
to leave dust at the job site. Get heavy rubber
could get ruined by the omnipresent dirt of
trash cans, wheelbarrows, push brooms, dustpans,
tearout. At the end of the day, go there and relax.
square-nose shovels for scooping debris, and
heavy canvas tarps to drape over plants or man-
laST-minuTe PreliminarieS
age debris outside. Rent a Dumpster for big jobs.
P R O T I P
Take care of these items before you start:
eleCTriCal SaFeTY
Notify gas, water, and electric companies
Plaster lath nails are often
if you haven’t done so already. Utility
Before you cut into finish surfaces, always shut
razor sharp and will puncture the
representatives can tell you what temporary
off electrical, water, and gas service to that area.
soles of tennis shoes as easily as
hookups are safe and who must do them.
After disconnecting electrical power and using a
they would a balloon. wear work
boots with hard soles if you’re
If you have newly purchased the building
voltage tester to make sure the power is off, start
and if an inspection found signs of insect
slowly and proceed carefully. If electricity-related
demolishing plaster surfaces.
infestation, have a pest-control professional
procedures described in the following sections
treat the condition before you move in.
are unclear, read chapter 11 and especially
“Using a Voltage Tester” on p. 268 before con-
Make sure your general contractor is
tinuing. Particularly useful are inductance testers
properly covered by insurance. Or, if you’re
(see p. 278), penlike voltage detectors that can
acting as your own GC, check with your
detect electrical current through a wire’s insula-
insurance company to make sure you and any
tion. In other words, inductance testers do not
helpers are covered.
need to touch a bare conductor to detect electri-
If you don’t have a cell ph
one, have a
cal current.
telephone installed so you can call for help in
an emergency. Have a first-aid kit and fire
Circuits. Identify circuit breakers or fuses con-
extinguisher handy. Ensure that everyone on
trolling electricity to the construction areas. This
site has had a tetanus shot. And if possible, get
will require one person at the panel to flip breaker
help. Don’t demo alone: It’s inherently
switches or unscrew fuses while another person
dangerous and unpredictable work.
watches a light fixture or a voltage tester inserted
in a receptacle to see if the light goes out. If you
use cell phones to communicate, you won’t need
uSeFul TearOuT
to scream instructions between floors.
TOOlS and equiPmenT
receptacles and switches. Voltage testers allow
Many of the tools mentioned here are shown and you to see if a receptacle is energized. Always test
discussed at greater length in chapter 3.
a tester first on an outlet you know is hot to be
Safety. Be sure you have a voltage tester, hard
sure the tester is working correctly. Usually it’s
hat, goggles or safety glasses that wrap around
sufficient to insert the tester probe into a recepta-
the sides of your face, a respirator mask with
cle to get an accurate reading, but occasionally
HEPA filters, sturdy work gloves, a droplight, and devices fail or wires become detached. To be
shoes with thick soles. Make sure your tetanus
absolutely certain an outlet is not live, remove
shot is up to date, your first-aid kit is complete,
the cover plate and—being careful not to touch
and your cell phone is charged.
bare metal—apply tester probes to wire ends.
To do so safely, follow the procedures shown on
Dismantling. Your kit should include wrecking
pgs. 268 and 301.
bars of various sizes (see p. 54), a flat utility bar,
a cat’s paw, a sledgehammer, and heavy scrapers.
Junction boxes. As you break through drywall
Reciprocating saws with demolition blades (see
or plaster surfaces, you may find junction boxes.
p. 48) are the workhorses of renovation. Demo
To get at the wires within, remove the junction
blades typically have pointed ends that enable
box cover. The wires inside will either be spliced
plunge-cutting (gradually lowering a blade into a together with wire nuts or wrapped in tape.
surface) and bimetal construction that can cut
Using pliers with insulated handles, carefully pull
through nails without shattering.
wire groups out of the box and remove wire nuts
or tape to expose wire ends. (If you are at all
Work aids. Rent scaffolding if you’re doing a
uneasy about handling wires, turn off all the elec-
lot of tearout over your head. To protect finish
tricity in the house and remove the wire nuts
floors, you’ll need a good supply of sheet plastic,
before proceeding.) Touch your voltage tester to
painter’s tape, duct tape, and Ram Board (thin,
Structural Carpentry
195
COnTaining THe meSS
visually isolating the work area
Managing the mess is crucial to a successful ren-
ovation and, from a contractor’s point of view,
Chip Harley, Renovation’s technical editor and a contractor for more than three
tangible proof to your clients that you’re trying to
decades, offers these thoughts about isolating the mess of a renovation when the
keep them safe and comfortable. Torn-out plaster
homeowners are living in the house:
and drywall are nasty to handle and create nox-
“when a job is going to run a week or longer, we isolate the work area by erect-
ious dust. The dust gets everywhere, and the vol-
ing temporary walls out of 2x2s, 2 ft. on center, and covering them with 1⁄8-in. door
ume of debris is prodigious. So especially if part
skin over a layer of plastic. The walls are strong but lightweight; the whole assembly
of the house is going to be occupied, isolating the
is only 50 to 60 lb. if you cut the 2x2 studs a bit long, you can pressure-fit them so
work area and containing the dust is job one.
there’s little damage to finish surfaces. Just a couple of screws will keep the walls
Visually isolating the work area is also a smart
from walking.
move, as explained at left.
Here are some other tips:
“On a really short job (a day or two) in which we make only a couple of cuts, we
Isolate the demolition area by taping
may use an expandable pole-and-plastic system. To be fair, they’re fast to put up,
clear plastic over door and window openings.
but they’re not durable. if the poles get bumped you need to reset them, and it
Clear plastic lets in light. Extendable ZipWall
seems like you spend a lot of time taping and retaping the zipper entry or repairing
poles allow you to raise a plastic wall quickly,
holes where somebody’s tool belt snagged when he entered.
and they have integral zippers in their systems.
“The other big advantage of our temp walls over plastic is that they give both
In front of the zipper door, hang a second
the homeowners and the workers a safety barrier and a visual barrier—and hence a
sheet of plastic to create an airlock of sorts.
modicum of privacy. The longer a project runs, the more important that sense of
Inside the work area, put a fan in the window
separation becomes. it’s stressful having strangers in your house all day. and for a
farthest from the entry, blowing out to move
worker, privacy means being able to take the time you need to think through a tricky
dust away from the entry.
detail without having a client looking over your shoulder wondering, ‘why has he
Finish floors are particularly vulnerable
been scratching his head for the last five minutes?’
to grit that isn’t swept up and to stray nails.
“Thinking is some of the hardest work there is, and the best carpenters stop and
think all day long.”
the black and white wires simultaneously, then to
each wire group and the metal box.
hidden wires. If you unexpectedly discover
cables running through a wall you are demolish-
ing, stop and turn off all power in the house.
Then snip the cable in two with a pair of insulated
wire cutters—never do this when the power is on.
After testing both ends of the snipped cable with
P R O T I P
a voltage tester to make sure that they are not
energized, separate the black and white wires,
blue painter’s tape is the best
and wrap individual wire groups with electrical
choice to stick sheet plastic to,
say, painted door trim. but READ
tape or cap them with wire nuts. While the power
THE LABEL. Tape is rated accord-
is off, also pull any staples holding the cable to
ing to how tacky it is and hence
the stu
ds so that you can remove the studs later
how long you can leave it up
without damaging the cable.
before it will become gummy
With the cable severed, you may proceed with
and start pulling paint or clear
the demolition. If the cable is to be discarded,
finishes off.
have a licensed electrician disconnect it from the
entrance panel. If the cable is to be reconnected,
reroute it after the structural work is complete
and house all new connections in a junction box.
Per code, all junction boxes must be accessible—
that is, not buried in a wall. Again, for your safety,
have an electrician do this.
A zipped plastic entry is a good first step toward isolating
the mess of a demolition. Use painter’s tape to attach the
plastic to woodwork, but don’t leave the tape on past its
day-rating or it will become gummy and lift off the finish.
196 Chapter 8
Sweep or vacuum floors thoroughly, then
to the nearest stud centers on both sides so the
cover them completely with 6-mil plastic.
plaster edges can be renailed before you patch
Overlap plastic seams by 6 in. and tape them
the opening.
with duct tape. At walls, run plastic up an inch
On the other hand, if at least half of a room is
or two and secure it to baseboards with blue
to be demolished or existing plaster walls are
painter’s tape. Over the plastic, put down a
cracked and damaged, it may be better to gut the
layer of Ram Board or 1⁄8-in. Masonite
room. With wires, pipes, and old studs exposed,
hardboard, which will protect flooring from a
new framing and drywall will go in faster. It’s
dropped hammer. Tape seams with duct tape.
tough and time-consuming to patch extensively.
P R O T I P
Be deliberate when you demolish. Have a
battle plan. Know what tools and helpers
remOving dOOrS and Trim
before storing salvaged trim,
you’ll need, where you’ll start tearout, and
Doors, hardware, and wood trim make a house
remove finish nails by pulling
which route is best for removing debris. As
distinctive. If you want to reuse casing and mold-
them through the back of the
much as possible, remove materials in
ing, carefully remove and store them until you
wood to avoid splintering the
manageable sizes so you won’t strain lifting it
face. likewise, if it’s difficult to
are done with tearout and rough framing. If