Renovation 4th Edition

by Michael Litchfield

  use the straight edge of a notched trowel to spread thinset adhesive. then, using

  the notched edge of the trowel, comb ridges into the adhesive. as you apply and

  comb adhesive, try to stop just short of the layout lines so you don’t obscure them.

  in theory, you can start setting tiles anywhere, but it’s usually best to start

  where the control lines meet and work out toward the walls. that way, you know

  that tile joints in the middle of the room—which are the most visible—will line up.

  Set several tiles, then pull up one and examine the back, which should be uniformly

  covered with adhesive. if it isn’t, you may have applied too thin a layer of thinset,

  used a notched trowel with teeth that are too small, or mixed the thinset too thin.

  if you are using large, handmade tiles such as Mexican pavers, they are often irregu-

  lar, so you may need to butter additional adhesive onto their back surfaces before

  setting. For buttering, use the straight edge of a trowel.

  conversely, if adhesive oozes up between tiles, the notched trowel’s teeth are

  probably too large; try

  one with smaller teeth.

  use a margin trowel to

  remove excess thinset

  between the tiles

  before it hardens. left

  in place, the thinset

  between tiles would

  prevent grout from fill-

  1. This installer is lightly snapping a chalked control line

  ing the joints and

  that will run roughly through the midpoint of the

  bonding properly.

  doorway to the room’s opposite wall. In the background

  are dark full tiles he initially positioned outward from

  the wall to mark the eventual tile joint near the

  doorway’s midpoint.

  2.

  468 chapter 16

  be consistent when Placing tiles

  When placing tiles in a grid, be

  consistent. if, for example, you

  place the top left sides of the first

  tile directly on the intersecting

  zzzzzz the First tile becomes a

  template for the grid

  chalklines of your grid, then your

  Grout line

  unit measurements must include

  space for the width of grout joints

  in the bottom right sides of that

  Adjacent

  tile. alternatively, some tilers pre-

  grout line

  fer to set back the top left sides of

  the first tile one-half the thick-

  ness of the grout joint. it doesn’t

  Grout line

  matter which placement you

  choose, just that you be consis-

  tent throughout the grid as you

  measure out from already set tiles

  to position new ones.

  Chalklines

  3. When corners aren’t square, start

  in the middle of the room—where

  control lines intersect—and work

  toward the walls. As you near out-

  of-square walls, cut tiles to fit. Avoid

  sliding tiles into place. Instead, align

  one edge to a control line or grout

  joint, “hinge” the tile down, and press

  it into the thinset.

  5. After setting the field of full tiles,

  4. As tile fills each quadrant, have a straightedge nearby attend to those that need cutting or

  to see if tile edges line up, especially if thinset has

  special fitting. The installer used a

  obscured the chalklines.

  wet saw to cut the two longer lines,

  then a nipper to finish off the

  rounded inner corner.

  tiling

  469

  Once it was established that the chalkline was meet obstacles in the middle of the field, such as

  parallel to the adjacent wall, they snapped a

  a toilet closet flange. By cutting these tiles first,

  chalkline onto the floor. Because it ran through

  you can set them quickly and install other full

  the middle of the doorway, that chalkline became tiles around them. Give the adhesive a day to

  the primary control line. Holding a story pole next harden, and you’re ready to grout the surface.

  to the chalkline, the crew then found a tiling-unit

  Note: This description is much condensed. If

  point that was roughly midway along the

  you’re a perfectionist, you’ll fuss with the spacing

  chalkline. Placing a framing square on this point, between tiles or between tile sheets and continue

  the crew next snapped a second chalkline per-

  making little adjustments until the job is done.

  pendicular to the first: It became the secondary

  Be sure to stand back from time to time for an

  control line. In this manner, they divided the

  overview of the layout.

  room into quadrants roughly equal in size. By

  measuring from these two control lines, using

  oFFSetting tile JointS

  the story pole, and sighting by eye, the crew

  to add ViSual intereSt

  could make sure that successive courses lined up. The layout method just described—using two pri-

  The rest of such a layout is mostly fine-tuning, mary control lines set at right angles—is useful

  with an eye to the four time-tested tips of tiling,

  regardless of the tile shape you’re working with.

  as outlined earlier: using full tiles at focal points,

  When your tiles are rectangular rather than

  cutting as few tiles as possible, making layouts as square, however, you may want to create a more

  symmetrical as possible, and avoiding tiles less

  interesting pattern by offsetting the end joints, as

  than half size. For this, a story pole is essential.

  shown in the photo at left below. (To compare

  other examples of offset joints, see the brick pat-

  Setting the tileS

  terns on p. 219. The common bond pattern, with

  Set full tiles before partial tiles. To get a rhythm

  offset end joints, is far more interesting than the

  going, most tilesetters first set all the full tiles,

  stretcher bond, in which end joints all line up.)

  then attend to partial tiles, which take time to cut

  Offsetting tile end joints requires a slightly

  and set. However, you may want to make com-

  greater attention to detail, however, because if

  plex cuts beforehand, for example, where tiles

  you offset every other row of tiles, one of the con-

  trol lines will be covered half of the time. This is

  easier to see than to explain. The tiler in the

  Installing an offset tile array is a bit trickier because every

  other row of tiles will cover one of the control lines. Here,

  the first tile in the first row sits within the intersecting

  offsetting end joints so that they align every other row creates a more

  chalklines, but the first tile in the second row is offset by

  interesting pattern—especially when installing rectangular tiles.

  8 in., covering the chalkline.

  470 chapter 16

  photo sequence is working with 8-in. by 16-in.

  Countertops

  slate tiles and offsetting each end joint by 8 in.

  The front edge of a counter is almost always the

  Therefore, end joints line up every other row. As

  focal point. The primary control line runs pa
ral-

  you can see in the bottom right photo on the fac-

  lel to the front of the counter, and all other layout

  ing page, the first tile in his first row fits nicely

  lines are secondary to it. If the counter will be

  into the intersection of the control lines; the first

  subject to moisture, install a membrane before

  tile in the second row overshoots the control line

  installing a setting bed.

  by 8 in.; the first tile in the third row lines up,

  and so on.

  Straight counter, no Sink

  P R O T I P

  Not to overthink things, but when one of your

  control lines is covered half the time, you will

  The simplest surface to lay out is a straight coun-

  probably rely more on the control line that isn’t

  thinset adhesive should be

  ter with no sink because it has only one control

  covered up (because it runs parallel to tiles’ long

  moist enough to stick to the tile

  line. Begin by using a framing square and a story

  but not so wet that it slides off

  sides). Our tiler seems to be doing just that. After pole to survey the countertop.

  a trowel. if thinset skins over

  setting his first row of tiles all the way to a wall,

  “Counter Layout” on p. 474 assumes the coun-

  while you’re setting tile, recomb

  he uses a straightedge to check tile alignments

  ter edges are finished with V-cap trim, a common

  it with a notched trowel. but if it

  and then weights down the straightedge so it won’t choice, and tile joints are 1⁄8 in. wide. Place several

  gets stiff in the pan or it doesn’t

  move as he adds and adjusts subsequent rows.

  V-caps along the counter edge, then measure

  stick readily to the tiles, discard

  Installing each row is an ongoing process of

  back from the edge 1⁄16 in. from each cap to mark

  it and mix a fresh batch. likewise,

  adjusting and aligning—using a tiler’s straight-

  the middle of the first grout joint. Snap a

  if you move a tile after the adhe-

  edge, a measuring tape, a framing square—but

  chalkline through these marks to establish a con-

  sive has started to set, scrape

  that’s true of any tiling job. And, of course, while

  trol line. Because the front edge is the counter’s

  the thinset off the back of the

  you’re constantly checking tile positions against

  focal point, you’ll place full field tiles next to the

  tile and the setting bed, and

  the two control lines, you must also keep an eye

  row of V-caps.

  apply fresh mortar to both

  on the third dimension—how level the tiles are,

  surfaces.

  Using your story pole, measure the length of

  as illustrated in the photo at right below. This job the counter to see if you must cut tiles. If one end

  was particularly exacting because tile thicknesses of the counter abuts a wall and the other is open,

  varied somewhat. So in addition to the layer of

  plan a row of full tiles along the open end, thus

  thinset he applied to the floor with a notched

  consigning cut tiles to the wall end where they’ll

  trowel, he also “buttered” the back of each tile,

  using the trowel’s straight edge.

  When tile thicknesses are slightly

  irregular, butter the backs of tiles

  with thinset adhesive in addition

  to troweling adhesive on the floor.

  That is, you’ll butter the backs of

  all tiles, but apply varying thickness

  of thinset.

  In addition to checking the alignment

  of tile joints to the two primary

  The tiler sets the first row of tiles all

  Periodically, use a framing square to

  layout chalklines, use a straightedge

  the way to the wall, places a

  check to make sure end joints line up.

  periodically to make sure tile faces

  straightedge along the edge of the

  The white spacers between tiles

  are level.

  row (at left), and weights down the

  ensure the correct spacing for the

  straightedge so the first row won’t

  grout, which will be applied when the

  move as he adds successive rows.

  tiling is complete.

  tiling

  471

  be less conspicuous. If both ends of the counter

  FroM THE ArCHIVES

  are open, and you see that you’ll need to cut tiles,

  move the story pole so that cut tiles will be the

  same dimension on both ends. That decided, mark

  positions for the tile units along the control line.

  Last, measure to the back of the counter to

  determine whether the final row of tiles will need

  cutting. You can precut tiles, but on a counter so

  simple, you can just measure and cut partial tiles

  individually after all the full tiles are set, likely

  giving you more accurate measurements anyway.

  Straight counter, With Sink

  To tile a straight counter with a sink, the layout is

  much the same as a counter without a sink,

  except that here, your main concern is making

  symmetrical tile cuts (if necessary) on either side

  of the sink. If you need to cut tiles, move the

  story pole side to side until the tile joints are

  equidistant on each side of the sink’s rough

  opening. Then transfer those two marks to the

  control line. Finally, use a framing square to run

  lines through those marks, perpendicular to the

  control line, to the back of the counter.

  l-ShaPed counter

  On an L-shaped counter, you have in effect two

  counters at right angles to each other, so you

  will need two control lines, perpendicular to

  each other, running along the front edge of each

  section. Any other layout considerations are

  subordinate to these two control lines because

  they determine how the two oncoming tile fields

  Because the front edge of a counter is the most visible, start layout

  will align.

  and installation there. Place V-cap trim along the front edge to position

  Use your framing square and a straightedge to

  successive courses of field tile. As you set each course of tile, use a

  establish control lines and to keep the tiles

  straightedge to align them.

  aligned once you’ve turned the corner. After

  setting V-cap trim tiles, start tiling where the two

  control lines intersect. As with straight counters,

  MoSAIC TIlE

  After you’ve set paper-backed sheets of mosaic tile in

  Use a grout float to seat mosaic tile in the thinset

  adhesive, the paper will start to soften, allowing you to

  adhesive. Choose knee pads that are comfortable enough

  reposition the tiles slightly. To move a row of tiles, place

  to wear for extended periods of time.

  the straight edge of a trowel against them and tap the

  trowel lightly with a hammer handle.

  472 chapter 16

  Waterproofing counter edges

  installers often mistakenly overlook


  countertop edges when installing the

  waterproof membrane. a membrane is

  especially important if you’re floating a

  zzzzzz countertop Front and back edges

  mortar bed because the moisture from

  FRONT EDGE

  BACK EDGE

  Thinset

  curing mortar is enough to swell unpro-

  tected plywood edges and, in time,

  1/2-in.

  Backsplash

  Self-sticking

  backer board

  cause V-cap trim to fall off. at the very

  V-cap trim

  metallic flashing

  1 in. above

  least, extend the membrane and wrap it

  Thinset

  Silicone caulk

  tile level, minimum

  down over the edge of the plywood sub-

  Tile

  strate. however, because building paper

  folds unevenly and can create a welt

  that won’t lie flat, a better solution is to

  Expansion joint

  cover counter edges with a self-sticking

  Thinset

  flashing such as Polyken Foilastic. it will

  lie flat, it’s impervious to water, and

  Self-sticking

  Waterproofing

  most thinsets will stick to it—but check

  metallic flashing

  membrane

  3/4-in.

  your thinset’s specs to be sure.

  Waterproofing

  exterior plywood

  the back edge of a counter, where it

  membrane

  abuts a wall or backsplash, also is sus-

  ceptible to water damage if not detailed

  Flash the front edge of a counter, as shown, to prevent the exposed edges of the

  correctly. run the waterproof membrane

  plywood from wicking moisture from the thinset adhesives and then swelling. Because

  the back edges of the countertops are also vulnerable to water damage, caulk and flash

  all the way to the wall, then flash the

  them, too.

  countertop–wall joint using self-sticking

  flashing. Fold the flashing lengthwise

  (into an l), adhering one leg of the l to

  the membrane and running the other

  leg up the wall at least 1 in. above the

  finish-tile level.

  zzzzzz tiles at the Sink

  DON’T DO THIS!

  DO THIS!

  1/4-width

  3/4-width

  tiles

  tiles

  1/2-width tiles

  both sides

  Symmetrical layouts look better. When a layout results in unequal tile widths

  along the sides of a kitchen sink—a very noticeable spot—either shift the layout