Laundry Love

by Patric Richardson

  Car mats: There are several ways to wash carpeted car mats. In the winter, I tend to just throw them in the washing machine and wash normally—they turn out just fine. In the summer, I wet them down with the hose in my backyard, sprinkle soap flakes on them, scrub them with a stiff brush, and then rinse. You can also do this in your bathtub. Whatever way you choose to wash your car mats, hang them on a drying rack or over your back fence to dry.

  Coat (fur coat): Place the coat in your (very clean) bathtub to which you’ve added a few inches of warm water and soap flakes. Add the coat to the tub, gently knead the fur with your fingers for a few minutes, and then let the coat rest in the soapy water for about twenty minutes. Next, swish the coat again in the soapy water and let the water drain from the tub. Now fill the tub with fresh tepid water, and let the coat soak for another twenty minutes; then drain the tub again. For the third and final time, fill the tub again with fresh tepid water, let the coat soak again, and then drain the tub. Allow the coat to rest in the tub overnight or even for twenty-four hours. When the coat is just damp, hang to finish drying.

  Coat (raincoat): Button or zip up the raincoat and then place it on your bed or a table with its front down. Fold in the sides and then the sleeves to create a long rectangle; then roll up the coat and place it in a large mesh bag, safety-pinning the mesh bag snugly around it so it can’t move. Wash as normal, but use soap flakes or a liquid laundry soap, not detergent, as that can negatively affect the coat’s moisture-repellant treatment.

  After washing, remove the coat from the mesh bag and shake it out. While some manufacturer instructions say that machine drying is fine, I highly recommend hanging up your raincoat to dry. Again, the heat of the dryer can harm the moisture-repellent treatment. If you need to iron it, do so when the coat is still slightly damp and iron with a pressing cloth.

  Coat (wool coat): Yep, you can wash a wool coat at home. I wash mine at the end of every winter and it’s a doozy—black cashmere and hemmed to the floor to keep me extra warm throughout cold Midwestern winters.

  First button the coat and then place it on your bed or a table with its front down. Fold in the sides and then the sleeves to create a long rectangle; then roll up the coat and stuff it into a large mesh bag.

  Next, fasten the mesh bag securely around the coat with several safety pins. The goal: You don’t want the coat to move within the mesh bag. Then wash the coat as normal.

  After washing, remove the coat from the mesh bag, shake it out, and hang to dry, patting flat the areas that are particularly wrinkly. When the coat is still slightly damp, press as needed.

  Down items: You can wash nearly any down item—including jackets, sleeping bags, and comforters—in a front-loading washing machine. Unfortunately, top loaders don’t work for down garments, because they float in the water and don’t really get clean. If you have a top loader, whip up some brownies or a pie and go visit a friend with a front loader. Or head to a Laundromat and eat the brownies yourself.

  The real difference in caring for down garments comes in the drying process. For a comforter, throw it in the dryer with a bunch of clean tennis balls for maximally fluffed results. For the jacket or sleeping bag, however, hang to dry—the heat of the dryer is too hot for the exterior fabric. And nope, the down won’t get musty if you air dry. Then, once the jacket or sleeping bag is completely dry, fluff it up by throwing it into the dryer with tennis balls on the no-heat, air-fluff setting.

  Dress (prom, pageant, and wedding dresses): There’s typically too much fabric to wash any of these dresses in a washing machine. Instead, head to your bathroom and place the gown—satin, sequins, tulle, and all—in your (very clean) bathtub to which you’ve added a few inches of warm water and some soap flakes. Now spend a few minutes gently swishing the dress through the water with your hands, and then let the dress rest in the soapy water for twenty minutes or so. Next, swish the dress again in the soapy water and let the water drain from the tub. Now fill the tub with fresh tepid water, let the dress soak for another twenty minutes, and drain the tub again. For the third and final time, fill the tub again with fresh tepid water, let the dress soak again, and then drain the tub. Allow the dress to rest in the tub for a few hours or even overnight. Finally, hang the dress to finish drying.

  Feather bed: Unfortunately, you can’t wash a feather bed in a residential-size washing machine. Instead, take this item to a Laundromat with commercial-size washing machines. Then wash the bed as normal and throw it in the dryer with at least a trio of clean tennis balls to fluff up the feathers.

  Lunch bags: Empty out any crumbs from the fabric lunch bag, turn it inside out, and wash as normal with your regular wash. Line-dry.

  Mop heads: The best way to wash a mop head is to place it in a mesh bag—to prevent tangling—and then wash it as normal. For maximal cleaning, add a tablespoon of bleach alternative right in the washer’s drum. Then line-dry.

  Oven mitts: While fabric oven mitts can be laundered as normal in a mesh bag in your washing machine, the easiest way to wash silicone oven mitts is to wash them in your dishwasher on the top rack. You should line-dry silicone mitts, but you can dry fabric mitts in the dryer.

  Pillows: Whatever type of pillow you own—down or Poly-fil—you can wash them as normal in a front-loading washing machine. Feel free to stuff them in. If you have a top loader, however, be sure to wash an even number of same-size Poly-fil pillows (two or four, for example) so you don’t throw off your machine’s balance. Unfortunately, you can’t wash down pillows in a top loader—they float and don’t get clean. If that’s your situation, it’s time to get out the butter, sugar, eggs, and flour, and use the bribery, ahem, baking method shared above.

  After washing, throw down pillows right into the dryer with three clean tennis balls to fluff them up. For Poly-fil pillows, hang them up to dry or place them across the top of a drying rack—the heat of the dryer is too hard on these. Then, once the Poly-fil pillows are completely dry, fluff them up in the dryer with tennis balls using the no-heat, air-fluff setting.

  Stuffed animals: Whenever Teddy needs a bath, place this Poly-fil guy in a mesh bag to protect his plastic eyes and any other accessories. Then wash as normal in either a front- or top-loading washing machine. Hang him up to dry and, once he’s completely dry, fluff him up in the dryer, using the no-heat, air-fluff setting and a few tennis balls.

  Rugs (small): Throw small rugs right into the washing machine. Then hang to dry. I’ve even thrown small, inexpensive oriental rugs in the wash with good results.

  Rugs (large): If it’s snowy outside and you’ve got a rug that needs cleaning, you’re in luck (if it’s not snowy, see below). Here’s what you do: After a fresh snow has fallen, take your area rug outside and place it faceup on an area of snow for five minutes to chill slightly. Next, flip the rug upside down on a clean patch of snow for twenty minutes. Then, flip it back over and, with a stiff broom, sweep snow onto the top of the rug; let the rug sit with the snow on it for twenty minutes before sweeping the snow back off again. The look of your rug should be much improved. Now, rather than bringing it right back into your home, let it warm up a bit in a garage or atop kitchen tile.

  If, however, you’re enjoying a balmy season, here’s what you do: Take your area rug outside and place it faceup on a clean driveway or a large clean sheet. Spray the top of your rug with a yard hose (not a power washer), sprinkle soap flakes across it, rub the soap in with your fingers, and then rinse it off. Then flip the rug over and spray the back. Flip it back over and let the rug dry.

  Running shoes and sneakers: If the shoes are fabric, place them in a mesh bag and wash as normal with your other laundry. If they’re leather, however, it’s best to spot treat them. If you must wash them, fill a basin with water and add a smidgen of soap; then wash by hand. Be sure to pull out the insoles and wash these separately. (Alternatively, consider just washing the insoles.) Rinse everything well and allow to air dry.

  Shower curtain and liner: If your shower
curtain is silver lamé, like mine, it requires placing it in a mesh bag before washing. Or maybe it’s a wool blend. Then roll it up in a mesh bag and fasten securely to prevent any abrasion during a normal wash. Or maybe it’s cotton—then just throw it right into the washing machine. Use your best judgment based on your shower curtain’s fabric and simply wash accordingly. To clean a shower liner, wash it in your machine on its own with soap flakes or a safe, plant-based, liquid laundry soap and a tablespoon of bleach alternative to remove any scale and mildew.

  Slipcovers: While I know a few Laundry Campers who wash their slipcovers in their washing machine and experience no problems, I typically just spot-clean my slipcovers. If you do decide to wash your slipcovers, wash them as normal, ensuring that you use the fast spin to get them as dry as possible. Then, rather than drying them in the dryer, I recommend zipping the slipcovers right back on your cushions while they’re still damp to ensure they fit well. You can just smooth out any wrinkles with your hands. Let the pillows dry thoroughly before placing them back on your sofa.

  Sports gear: To clean sports gear, from scuba equipment to curling gloves, it’s best to rely on manufacturers’ guidelines. Each (often pricey) item likely calls for special instructions, and this is one instance where you can follow those directions. If you’re cleaning your gear at the end of a sports season, be sure to store it in a place free from dirt—or cover it with an old, clean sheet or muslin, so the gear is ready to use, and not dusty, when the right season rolls around again.

  Wool suit: Begin with the suit jacket spread out on your bed or a table with its front down. Fold in the sides and then the sleeves to create a neat rectangle; fold the jacket in thirds, then roll it up, and tuck it into a medium-size mesh bag.

  To avoid any abrasion while the suit jacket is washing, fasten the mesh tightly and securely with several safety pins to prevent the jacket from budging while in the washing machine. You want the suit jacket to look like a giant sausage, with the mesh bag as its casing.

  Next, for the dress pants, place one leg atop the other, fold in half, and then fold in thirds—you want the pants to be folded as small as possible. Or you can place one leg atop the other and roll up the pants. Whichever method you use, place the pants in a small mesh bag and secure again with safety pins. Remember: You don’t want the pants to budge. Then wash the suit with the load of clothes that makes sense for the color of your suit, e.g., a black suit with black clothes or a navy suit in a load of cool colors. Wash on warm using the thirty-minute cycle.

  After washing, take the jacket and pants out of the mesh bags, shake them out, and hang to dry, patting flat the areas that are particularly wrinkly. When the garments are nearly dry, press as needed.

  (Pro tip: As I’ve mentioned before, unless it’s the victim of a spill, a wool suit likely only needs to be washed once a season. In the meantime, just air it out.)

  Yoga mat: Like bathtub mats, yoga mats aren’t textiles, so only their surfaces must be cleaned. For a great yoga mat cleaner, mix equal parts vinegar and water in a small spray bottle, and then add a few drops each of two antibacterial essential oils (tea tree, lavender, or eucalyptus are good choices). Simply spray and wipe.

  Now that you’ve completed this chapter on caring for special items, I hope you’re inspired, already thinking about favorite garments in the back of your closet that you’ve been meaning to dry clean. Who needs dry cleaning when you can launder everything you own at your home, in your apartment or dorm laundry room, or in a Laundromat! Not only will you be treating your garments (and yourself) more gently and more responsibly, you’ll be saving lots of time and money, too. Unlike your wash loads, the benefits of home laundry just keep piling up.

  10

  Making the Laundry Room Your Happy Place

  I used to have a blankie, and when my mom had to wash it, I would sit outside the dryer and watch it go round and round, and cry.

  —DREW BARRYMORE, ACTOR, DIRECTOR, PRODUCER, ENTREPRENEUR

  Flip through home magazines or surf online through gorgeous laundry room images and it’s easy to imagine blissful washing-and-drying sessions performed in a space outfitted with crystal chandeliers, cabinets with wainscoting, a dog-washing station, a wine cellar, and a hot tub.

  Sound like your laundry room? Not mine, either. While few of us are that fortunate (and perhaps we don’t even aspire to have dominion over such a room), most laundry rooms could stand to have some better organization, a couple of items to improve our laundering efficiency, and some cheery decor.

  And that’s if your laundry room is under your own roof. But what if you use an apartment laundry room, a dorm laundry room, or a Laundromat? How can you add more fun to your laundry room experience—regardless of what type of facility you use?

  That’s what this chapter is all about. But before we get down to brass tacks (or clothespins, as it were) and I share a few insights, plus great tools and tips, I’d like to give you a tour of the laundry room of my dreams.

  This laundry room doesn’t feature a sauna, a sensory deprivation tank, or a clothes-folding robot (although that would be awesome). My wants are much more down-to-earth and far more fun.

  To begin, my dream laundry room (like my current one) would be next to my bedroom for short trips back and forth with my clothes, bedding, and towels. Two washers and one dryer would offer maximal time efficiency. A steam cabinet, common in department-store backrooms, would make garment steaming a cinch. A built-in drying rack would disappear into a custom cabinet and, of course, a hanging rod would accommodate lots of drying shirts.

  A jetted laundry sink—like a whirlpool bath for clothes—would let me wash a single item or two, plus I could use it to see whether my stain-removal steps have gone far enough before throwing an item into my washing machine. (Also, I would totally climb up on the counter and stick my feet in the laundry tub for a jetted foot soak.)

  I’d have a bar sink for washing my hands while something soaks in the other sink and a mini fridge stocked with Diet Coke (and gin for the occasional G&T). A built-in sound system would spark some grooving as I fold and could lead to spontaneous dance parties. And one main item that I’d retain from my current laundry room is a disco ball. (Like hangers, a disco ball is a must in every laundry room.)

  A spacious ironing area would accommodate the ironing board—permanently set up and ready to go on a moment’s notice. A generous-size island would enable clothes folding on one end and spot-treating on the other, while canvas laundry bins would roll right underneath. Bright lighting, including at least one window, would enable me to see well enough to hem a pair of pants or sew on a button in the sewing area. And a couple of chairs (laminate for easy cleaning) would let us catch our breath after all that dancing. (Of course, friends are invited to join in on the laundry fun.)

  Speaking of dancing, the natural (and nontoxic) linoleum floor would be heated so that our tootsies would always be warm, no matter the season or time of day. And toe-kick vacuum vents, just like in a hair salon, would enable quick and easy vacuuming for a spick-and-span space. Finally, I’d draw a line at adding a TV. Because if I did, I may never leave my dream laundry room.

  (Truth be told, I’d also love to have a small washer and maybe even a dryer near my kitchen for loads of tablecloths, linen napkins, and kitchen towels. OK, now I’m done dreaming.)

  Back to Reality

  The worst laundry room I ever used was one in college that had the washer and dryer on opposite sides of the room. And it had no sink. Doing laundry there was a total pain. The most amazing laundry room I ever actually set foot in was a former breakfast room in a beautiful home. Green palm-print wallpaper ensconced one wall, classic black-and-white tiles covered the floor, and three walls of windows looked out over a horse ranch.

  But for sheer efficiency, my favorite room to do laundry in is at my mom’s house. Unlike the one that I grew up using, this laundry room features refurbished kitchen cabinets for lots of storage, a large table in the middle of
the room for folding clothes and removing stains, and a rod that runs the room’s length for hanging clothes. Doing laundry there is simple and easy. And when I have my mom there to keep me company, how could it not be fun?

  Most of us inherit our laundry rooms when we move into our homes, whether single-family dwellings or apartments. For many of us, the laundry room is more of a closet, with stackable appliances hidden behind a door. For others, the laundry room is in a dark, unfinished basement with a cobwebby ceiling and a bare lightbulb lit with the pull of a chain (like the creepy laundry room in Home Alone). And for lucky others, it’s a combination mudroom-laundry room, which allows dirty clothes to go right into the washer. No matter what your laundry room looks like, even if it’s one of those glossy-magazine-type laundry rooms, a few improvements can up your laundry game and your laundering experience.

  Soon my friend Mary Ann will move into a brand-new condo. She’s one of the fortunate few who didn’t inherit her laundry room but gets to design it. In fact, when she found out that the builder was inviting her input on its layout, she turned to me for advice. I, of course, was only too happy to help.

  As originally designed, hers is one of those hallway laundry rooms—really, more of an alcove—hidden behind folding doors. My goals? To maximize its space, to ensure it serves all of her laundry needs, and to make it fun. For starters, I recommended using a stackable washer and dryer. That way Mary Ann has space to add a small laundry sink, enabling her to remove stains right there (not in her kitchen or bathroom sink). I also suggested hanging a bar over the sink to accommodate drying laundry. Next, I advocated replacing the folding doors with a solid wood door so that she can add an accordion-style laundry rack to the inside. And I proposed a small counter on which she can remove stains and fold clothes. Lastly, I advised painting the wall a bright pop of color and including a piece of artwork to set an upbeat tenor for all the tasks performed there. (I didn’t suggest hanging a disco ball—that’s because I want to bring her the perfect housewarming gift.)