Setting Up Your Sewing Machine
You’ll need a slightly tight tension. On my machine, I set the tension on 3 (out of 10) and set the zigzag stitch as wide as it will go. The stitch length is set at 2, or a fairly short stitch length. It’s best to practice first. If you encounter stitching problems such as skipped or loose stitches, refer to the owner’s manual that came with your machine. Your piece will come together much nicer if you solve any potential problems before you begin the project.
Make sure the presser foot is suitable for sewing a zigzag stitch and that it allows you to clearly see the area where the two rows of cording will be stitched together. Fill several bobbins with thread, and then thread your sewing machine.
HELPFUL HINT
The bobbin thread is what will show up on the outside of your pot. If you’re making an enclosed pot and you’re getting low on matching thread, save the thread you have for the bobbin. As long as you can’t see inside the pot, you can use another color of thread on the top of your machine.
Wrapping the Cording
Now that you’ve gathered your tools, cut your fabric strips, and set up your sewing machine—let’s wrap the cording. For all of the projects in this book, you’ll be starting with cording that’s wrapped, and you’ll be wrapping as you go.
I find it’s easiest to wrap the fabric strips onto the cording as I go. If I wrap too far ahead, the fabric strip will start to come unwrapped in places, which is frustrating and causes headaches. You may decide that you like to wrap long lengths of fabric onto the cording so that you can just sew away. This is entirely up to you. I usually wrap 18" to 24" of cording at a time.
You’ll also need to apply tension to the cording as you wrap. It’s easier to do this if the cording is under the presser foot. When you need to wrap more cording, stop sewing and leave the needle in the down position to keep your work from shifting under the presser foot.
I like to have the cording dangling next to my left leg and onto the floor. I place my fabric strips next to my sewing machine on my right and I sit about 18" from my machine.
1. Hold the cording in your left hand. Lay the first strip of fabric under the cording at an angle, about 1" from the end of the fabric strip.
2. Bring the end of the fabric strip over the top of the cording, covering the end of the cording.
3. With your left thumb, roll the end of the fabric strip under the cording.
4. When the end of the strip is secure, flip the fabric strip over the top of the cording, to the left.
5. Secure the fabric strip with a straight pin. Always make sure the pointed tip of the straight pin is facing toward the unwrapped cording so the pin head doesn’t get buried under the fabric strip as you wrap. Otherwise, it’s very hard to remove the pin. I know because I’ve done it!
6. Continue wrapping the cord until the fabric strip is used up.
7. To start the next strip of fabric, wrap the new strip around the end of the previous strip once and secure it with a straight pin. (The straight pin is sufficient to hold the fabric strips together; you don’t need to stitch or glue them.) Once you sew past the straight pin, you can remove it. Continue wrapping the cord using the new fabric strip.
Starting the Coil
Now the fun begins!
1. Start by wrapping about 8" of cording with fabric and secure it with a straight pin. Then fold the first 1¼" of wrapped cording in half. Holding it tightly, place the wrapped cording under the presser foot with the loop end away from you and the rest of the cording on the right.
2. Take a few stitches, stop, and then turn your work counterclockwise.
3. Take a few more stitches, stop, and turn your work counterclockwise. Repeat until your coil is about 1½" in diameter. At this point you should be able to smoothly stitch without having to stop to turn your work. Always keep the shape to the left of the machine where there is ample room for the project to grow.
HELPFUL HINT
When you start the coil, if you’re having a hard time turning your work counterclockwise, use a corsage pin or a stylus to ease it around.
4. To continue, wrap the rest of your fabric strip around the cording as you go, wrapping about 18" to 24" at a time. For a nice, smooth wrap, put a lot of tension on the cording by pulling it tight as you wrap the fabric around it. Flip the fabric strip over the cording from right to left, exposing ½" to ¾" of fabric with each wrap.
5. Mark the starting point with a straight pin so that you can easily ensure that you’ve made complete rounds. This will be important in the future!
Starter Coils
To get a feel for making a coil, you can practice by making starter coils. A starter coil is used to make the opening in two- or three-piece pots. Eventually the starter coil will be removed from the pot opening, but using one ensures that the opening will be round and symmetrical. Start by making a coil that is 2" in diameter. Then make additional starter coils with the following diameters: 2½", 3", 3½", 4", and 4½". When the coil is the desired diameter, stop sewing and cut the wrapped cording off. You can use these starter coils in future projects. I have a supply of starter coils, in all different diameters, which I use over and over again.
Starter coils
Two Basic Coiling Methods
MOST OF THE PIECES you see in this book were made using either the Direct-Lift or Gradual-Lift method described in this section. A few were made using a combination of methods.
The Direct-Lift Method
Once your coil is about 1½" in diameter, you should be able to freely sew the coil without stopping and starting. This coil is going to be the flat bottom of your pot. I call this bottom coil the base coil. Don’t confuse “base coil” with “starter coil” (page 17). The base coil is a permanent part of the pot, while a starter coil will be removed to reveal the pot opening.
1. Start the base coil as described in “Starting the Coil” (page 16); then continue zigzag stitching until the base coil is the diameter indicated in your project instructions. Be sure that you’ve marked your starting point with a pin.
2. With the needle down, raise the left edge of the base coil until it touches the side of your sewing machine. (Now you see why it’s called the Direct-Lift method.)
3. Carefully stitch one round, being careful to catch the previous row of cording as you zigzag. You’ll see the sides of your pot starting to form.
4. Continue stitching until the sides of your pot are ¼" less than the height indicated in the project instructions (each round adds ¼" to the height of the side).
5. On the last round of stitching, mark a point directly above your starting point with a straight pin. When you’re about 3" from the pin, stop sewing.
The Gradual-Lift Method
The best way to understand the Gradual-Lift method is to look at the following illustration and photos. Picture the space at the left of your sewing machine like a clock.
Start by sewing a base coil until it measures the diameter given in the project directions. The flat base coil is in the 9:00 position. Set your left hand firmly, palm up, at the edge of your sewing machine with the base coil on top. This is the 9:30 position. Sew the number of rounds indicated in the project instructions. Raise the base coil to the 10:00 position and sew the indicated number of rounds. Repeat for the 11:00 and 12:00 positions, or for the positions indicated in the project instructions.
Coil in the 9:30 position
Coil in the 10:00 position
Coil in the 11:00 position
Coil in the 12:00 position
The number of rounds you stitch in each position will depend on how large and rounded the element (top or bottom section of the pot) needs to be. Not all projects will go from the 9:00 to the 12:00 position. This is a place where you can use your own judgment and visual skills. If you want a slightly rounded top for a piece, sew the coil only to the 11:00 position. The higher you lift the element, the rounder it becomes.
When I started making pieces using the Gradual-Lift m
ethod, I realized how similar this sewing technique is to making pottery. You use your left hand to help form the roundness of the element, much like you would to form the shape of a pot on the pottery wheel.
Finishing the Edge
As with the lifting options, there are two different methods for finishing off an edge. The type of pot or which element you’re making will determine which method to use.
Method One
When making an element that will be joined to another element, use this method.
1. Remove your work from under the presser foot.
2. Bring the cording only over to the straight pin (see “The Direct-Lift Method,” step 5, on page 18). Cut the cording off at the straight pin.
3. Wrap the remaining cording with fabric. Wrap past the end of the cording so that the cording doesn’t show. Trim the fabric strip, leaving a 1"-long tail.
4. Secure the wrapped cording to the pot with a straight pin. Resume zigzag stitching until you come to the end of the cording, making sure the fabric tail is on the inside of the pot. Stop stitching where the cording ends.
5. Trim off the fabric tail close to the stitching. Apply fabric glue, clear glue, or seam sealant to the cut end of the fabric strip to prevent fraying.
Method Two
Use this method to finish off the top edge of an open-top pot or the edge of a neck or lid. This method allows the last row of cording to gradually taper off for a smooth transition from the previous row to the end of the cording.
1. On the last round of stitching, mark a point directly above your starting point with a straight pin. When you are about 3" from this point, stop sewing.
2. Remove your work from under the presser foot.
3. Bring the cording only over to the straight pin. Cut the cording off at the straight pin (see step 2 of “Method One” above).
4. Push back the outer covering of the cording to reveal the inner fibers. Trim the inner fibers at an angle.
5. Pull the covering back over the inner fibers. Finger-press the cording to make a tapered point.
6. Position the pot under the presser foot and continue wrapping the tapered cording with a fabric strip. Apply tension by pulling firmly on the cording as you wrap it, all the way to the end. Trim the fabric strip, leaving a 1"-long tail.
7. Pin the tapered and wrapped cording to the pot. Stitch to the end of the cording, making sure the fabric tail is on the inside of the pot.
8. Continue to zigzag stitch around the entire top edge of the pot, making sure the needle swings on, and then off, the fabric. Stitching over the top coil will make a nice finished edge.
9. Trim away the fabric tail close to the stitching. Apply fabric glue, clear glue, or seam sealant to the cut end of the fabric strip to prevent fraying.
Easy Direct-Lift Project
This first project is a confidence builder. It’s quite easy and shouldn’t take too long to complete. You’ll be using the Direct-Lift method to make a nice open-top pot. I’ve intentionally used solid fabric so you can see that even a plain, easy pot can look great with some simple embellishments.
HELPFUL HINT
If you have experience using another coiled-cording technique, you may want to skip the first two projects. They’re designed to give you practice starting a coil and using the Direct-Lift and Gradual-Lift methods.
Finished Measurements
Height: 4"
Diameter across top: 5½"
What You’ll Need
⅜ yard of fabric
20' of 3⁄16"-diameter cording
Matching thread
Straight pins
Fabric glue, clear glue, or seam sealant
Nexcare 3M Durable Cloth Tape (optional)
Fabric embellishment (optional)
Embroidery floss (optional)
Four 6 mm glass beads for embellishment (optional)
Making the Pot
Refer to “Let’s Start Sewing” on page 13 for detailed instructions on completing the following steps.
1. Cut 12 fabric strips, ¾" wide.
2. Start the base coil and continue sewing until the base coil measures 3½" in diameter. Mark your starting point with a straight pin.
3. Raise your work directly up to touch the side of your sewing machine, referring to “The Direct-Lift Method” (page 18) as needed.
4. Continue sewing until you have half of the last fabric strip remaining.
5. On the rim, use a straight pin to mark a spot that is directly above the pin that marks your starting point. Remove your work from under the presser foot, if needed, to position the pin correctly.
6. Continue sewing and wrapping the cording until you’re about 3" from the straight pin.
7. Finish the top edge as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method Two” on page 20.
8. Examine your piece for any stray straight pins and any places where the zigzag stitch is missing. Go back and correct any unstitched areas.
9. Add a fabric embellishment (see “Fabric Embellishments” on page 50).
You’re done—great job! Wasn’t that easy?
USE A LITTLE STEAM
After I’ve finished a project, I like to steam it with my iron to give the piece a nice, smooth surface. But be careful not to burn yourself on the steam.
While you’re at it, you can turn a basic open-top pot into a square pot just by steaming it with your iron. Fold your pot in half. Mark the two outer points with straight pins. Steam these two edges. You may want to use a pressing cloth. Next, fold the pot in half again, matching the straight pins in the center. Steam these two edges. Shape it into a square. You can use this method to make a rectangular or six-sided pot too.
Embellish the pot with whatever you can dream up! See “Yarn” on page 48 for instructions on making this embellishment.
Easy Gradual-Lift Project
This project is designed to give you practice using the Gradual-Lift method. You’ll start to get the feel for making rounded shapes. We’ll be making a nice bowl.
Finished Measurements
Height: 3"
Diameter across top: 7"
What You’ll Need
⅜ yard of fabric
20' of 3⁄16"-diameter cording
Matching thread
Straight pins
Fabric glue, clear glue, or seam sealant
Nexcare 3M Durable Cloth Tape (optional)
Scrap of fabric for embellishment (optional)
5 beads for embellishment (optional)
Making the Bowl
Refer to “Let’s Start Sewing” (page 13) and “The Gradual-Lift Method” (page 18) for detailed instructions on completing the following steps.
1. Cut 12 fabric strips, ¾" wide.
2. Make a base coil 3½" in diameter. Make sure that you’ve marked your starting point with a pin.
3. With the base coil in the 9:30 position, zigzag stitch five rounds.
4. Stitch five more rounds in the 10:00 position.
5. Stitch four rounds in the 11:00 position.
6. Stitch three rounds in the 12:00 position.
7. On the rim, use a straight pin to mark a spot that is directly above the pin that marks the starting point. Remove your work from under the presser foot, if needed, to position the pin correctly.
8. Continue sewing and wrapping the cording until you’re 3" from the straight pin.
9. Finish the top edge as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method Two” on page 20.
10. For the embellishment, I used six turquoise-colored polymer clay beads that were rolled in black pepper before they were baked. I positioned a complementary strip of fabric on one side of the bowl and stitched the beads to the bowl, through the fabric, to secure them. For instructions on making polymer beads, see “Making Beads” (page 48).
Let’s Sew a Pot
Once you’re familiar with both the Direct-Lift and Gradual-Lift shaping methods, you’re ready to make an enclosed pot. We’ll use the Direct-Lift method for th
e bottom element and the Gradual-Lift method for the more rounded top element. And I’ll introduce you to using a starter coil for the hole in the top of your pot.
The goal is to make the diameter of the top element equal to the diameter of the bottom element—which really is the secret to making a great pot! Then you’ll simply join the two elements using a connecting stitch.
Finished Measurements
Height: 6½"
Diameter across top: 6½"
What You’ll Need
½ yard of batik
35' of 3⁄16"-diameter cording
Matching thread
2"-diameter starter coil
Sewing Pottery by Machine Page 2
