Straight pins
Fabric glue, clear glue, or seam sealant
Seam ripper
Hand sewing needles
Nexcare 3M Durable Cloth Tape (optional)
Making the Bottom Element
We’ll make the bottom element first. Refer to “Let’s Start Sewing” (page 13) and “The Direct-Lift Method” (page 18) for detailed instructions on completing the following steps.
1. Cut 18 fabric strips, ¾ wide.
2. Make a 3½"-diameter base coil. Mark your starting point with a straight pin.
3. Raise the base coil directly up to touch the side of your sewing machine. Continue sewing until the side of the bottom element measures 4".
4. Finish the top edge of this element as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method One” on page 20.
5. Measure the top diameter of the bottom element and write down the number.
Making the Top Element
Refer to “Starter Coils” (page 17) and “The Gradual-Lift Method” (page 18) for detailed instructions on completing the following steps.
1. Stitch three rows of wrapped cording around a 2"-diameter starter coil.
2. Raise the coil to the 9:30 position and stitch three rounds.
3. Stitch three rounds in the 10:00 position.
4. Stitch four rounds in the 10:30 position
5. Stitch four rounds in the 11:00 position.
6. Remove the top element from under the presser foot. Measure the diameter; it should be the same as the bottom element. If it isn’t, continue stitching (or remove a few stitches using a seam ripper) until the elements have equal diameters.
HELPFUL HINT
You can eliminate problems if you measure the diameter of the top element several times as you’re sewing. This will help you determine how close you are to reaching the desired diameter.
7. Finish the top edge as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method One.”
8. Remove the element from under the presser foot. Use a seam ripper to remove the starter coil from the top element. Trim any loose threads or fibers from around the hole.
9. Position the top element under the presser foot again and zigzag stitch around the hole to finish the edge.
Joining the Elements
When I realized I could join two shapes, I needed a way to sew them together. As a result, I developed a connecting stitch, which is done by hand but looks like a machine zigzag stitch. This stitch is done from the outside of your pot. Once both the top element and the bottom element are completed and their diameters match, you’re ready to join them.
1. Place the top element on the bottom element, matching the edges. Using straight pins, pin the two elements together, butting the finishing points together.
2. With the two elements pinned together, turn your piece on its side. Set your work in your lap with the area to be joined facing up.
3. Use a single strand of thread and start about ½" from where the two elements are butted together. With your hand inside your pot, insert the needle and come up at position 1 as shown below. The thread knot should be on the inside of the pot or buried between two cords. (If the top opening is too small you can start on the outside of the pot.) Note that the position of the pot is for right-handers; reverse the pot if you’re left-handed.
4. Referring to the illustration with step 7, insert the needle at 2 and come back out at 1.
5. Go in at 3 and come out at 4. Then, go back in at 3 and come back out at 4.
6. Go in at 5 and come out at 6. Then, go back in at 5 and come back out at 6.
7. Go in at 7, and continue stitching in this manner all the way around the pot.
8. When you’re back to where you started, you’ll need to add a few stitches to the previous round. Try to make the point where the two elements butt together look as seamless as possible. This is what will amaze your friends, having your pot look like it’s all one piece!
HELPFUL HINT
Since I’ve been sewing pots, I’ve found that things don’t always go as planned. I’ve learned that sometimes you just have to let your pot be what it wants to be. Sometimes it tells you. Just relax! No one will know that your rounded pot was supposed to have straight sides. You’ll still end up with a great-looking piece.
Easy Three-Piece Pot
What makes this three-piece pot simple is that you’ll use only the Direct-Lift method. Adding the neck and embellishments make it look like a real pot. But don’t be fooled, it won’t hold water!
Finished Measurements
Height: 8"
Diameter across widest point: 6"
What You’ll Need
⅝ yard of batik
35' of 3⁄16"-diameter cording
Matching thread
2"-diameter starter coil
Straight pins
Fabric glue, clear glue, or seam sealant
Seam ripper
Hand sewing needle
Polymer clay pendant for embellishment (optional)
Black twine for embellishment (optional)
Nexcare 3M Durable Cloth Tape (optional)
When I saw this batik, I knew it would make a good-looking pot. Different shades of a single color are exactly what I look for in a fabric. It reminds me of a glazed piece of pottery.
Making the Bottom Element
We’ll make the bottom element first. Refer to “Let’s Start Sewing” (page 13) and “The Direct-Lift Method” (page 18) for detailed instructions on completing the following steps.
1. Cut 24 fabric strips, ¾" wide.
2. Stitch a 3½"-diameter base coil. Mark your starting point with a straight pin.
3. Raise the base coil directly up to the side of your sewing machine.
4. Continue sewing until the side measures 3½". Stop directly above your starting point.
5. Finish the edge as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method One” on page 20.
6. Measure the top diameter of the bottom element and write down the number.
Making the Top Element
Refer to “Starter Coils” (page 17) and “The Direct-Lift Method” as needed to make the top element.
1. Stitch one row of wrapped cording around a 2"-diameter starter coil.
2. Raise the starter coil up so that it’s aligned with the side of your sewing machine. (Your work isn’t large enough yet to bring up to the side of your machine.) You’ll need to visualize a line as shown.
3. Continue sewing until the side of the top element measures 4". Stop directly above your starting point.
4. Remove the top element from under the presser foot. Measure the diameter; it should be the same as the bottom element. It it isn’t, continue stitching (or remove a few stitches using a seam ripper) until the elements have equal diameters.
5. Finish off the edge as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method One.”
6. Remove the element from under the presser foot. Use a seam ripper to remove the starter coil from the top element; trim any loose threads.
Making the Neck
Refer to “Starter Coils” and “The Direct-Lift Method” as needed to make a neck for your pot. The neck will give your pot a nice finishing touch!
1. Stitch one row of wrapped cording around a 2"-diameter starter coil.
2. Repeating step 2 of “Making the Top Element,” raise the starter coil up so that it’s aligned with the side of your sewing machine, and then stitch four rounds.
3. Finish the edge as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method Two” on page 20.
4. Remove the element from under the presser foot. Use a seam ripper to remove the starter coil from the neck; trim any loose threads. Measure the hole in the neck; it should be the same diameter as the hole in the top element.
HELPFUL HINT
Save any short lengths of cording left over from your projects. They come in handy when making necks, handles, and lids for future pots.
Joining the Elements
When joining elements, it’
s easiest to work from the top down. You’ll want to connect the neck to the top element before you connect the top and bottom elements.
It’s difficult to join the neck element to the top element using a connecting stitch because the neck and top elements come together at an inverted angle. I’ve found that it’s easier to use a whipstitch to join the neck and top elements, making sure the stitches look nice. They’re going to show!
1. Aligning the starting point on the top element with the starting point on the neck element, pin the neck and top elements together using straight pins.
2. Using a single strand of thread, whipstitch the neck to the top element from the inside, making sure the stitches are as inconspicuous as possible.
3. Aligning the finishing point on the top element with the finishing point on the bottom element, pin the top and bottom elements together using straight pins.
4. Use a single strand of thread and a connecting stitch to join the two elements. Refer to “Joining the Elements” on page 28.
5. Examine your pot. Remove any stray straight pins and trim any loose threads or fibers. Steam your piece if desired. You’ve just completed a three-piece pot!
Adding Embellishments
It’s fun to get creative with embellishments. For this project I made a simple polymer clay pendant and tied it on with black twine.
Refer to “Making Pendants” on page 48 for instruction on making this polymer clay pendant. For other great ideas, see “Embellishments” on page 47. You can really think outside the box with your embellishments. If you’re a crafter as well as a sewer, you may already have some ideas. Try using craft foam, rubber stamps, inks, yarns and fibers, or polymer beads. Tyvek is also a fun new product to try. The right embellishment will really make your piece pop!
Pot with Handles and Lid
In clay pottery, not every piece is an enclosed form. Not all of your coiled-cording pots have to be enclosed either. A pot with handles and a lid is not only functional, it’s also fun and easy to make. This project can be used as a sewing basket, candy dish, or a gift basket for a special friend. You can use it as a small Easter basket, or add a liner and put Christmas cookies in it. Its purpose is whatever you imagine it to be!
Finished Measurements
Height: 5"
Diameter across top: 7" (not including handles)
What You’ll Need
⅝ yard of fabric
30' of 3⁄16"-diameter cording
Matching thread
Straight pins
Fabric glue, clear glue, or seam sealant
Hand sewing needle
Nexcare 3M Durable Cloth Tape (optional)
Making the Pot
In this project, you’ll make the pot using the Direct-Lift method, and then make the lid to fit using the Gradual-Lift method. Refer to “Let’s Start Sewing” (page 13) and “The Direct-Lift Method” (page 18) for detailed instructions on completing the following steps.
1. Cut 24 fabric strips, ¾" wide.
2. Make a 3½"-diameter base coil. Mark your starting point with a straight pin.
3. Raise the base coil directly up to the side of your sewing machine. Continue stitching until the side of the pot measures 3½". Stop sewing directly above the starting point.
Making the Handles
1. Remove the pot from under the presser foot and insert a straight pin in the top of your pot where you stopped sewing.
2. Measure 3" from the straight pin and place a second pin in the top of the pot. Bend the wrapped cording so that it forms a 1"-high arch; pin the cording at the 3" mark (the second straight pin) to make the first handle as shown.
3. Continue around the top edge, pinning the wrapped cording to the edge of the pot. Directly across from the first handle, make another handle that measures 3" across and 1" high. Measure the distance between the handles, making sure they’re evenly spaced; adjust the handles as needed.
4. Place the pot back under the presser foot at the first straight pin. Zigzag stitch straight across the bottom of the handle opening. When you reach the second pin, continue stitching around the pot, sewing the two rows of cording together. Then sew across the bottom of the second handle opening and continue stitching around the pot until you come to the first handle again.
5. Place the wrapped cording along the top of the handle and zigzag stitch the two rows of cording as shown to make a two-row handle.
6. Continue stitching until you come to the second handle. Repeat step 5 to make a second two-row handle. Once you’ve made the second handle, stop sewing and remove the pot from under the presser foot.
7. Using the cording tail, measure from the stopping point to where the first handle starts. Cut off the cording only 1" before the first handle, leaving the fabric tail.
8. Finish off the top edge as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method Two” on page 20, including both handles.
9. Zigzag stitch the lower edge of both handles.
Making the Lid
To make the lid we’ll use a variation of the Gradual-Lift method. Instead of sewing from the 9:00 position to the 12:00 position, we’ll hold the coil in the 10:00 position. We’ll also start with a loop so you can add a ball knot to the top of the lid. Refer to “The Gradual-Lift Method” (page 18) as needed.
1. Measure the top opening of the pot, inserting a ruler through the handles so that you’re measuring across the opening from edge to edge. Write down the number.
2. Start a coil, leaving a small hole in the center. Stitch until the coil measures 1½" in diameter.
3. Raise the coil to the 10:00 position and continue stitching. You may have to lightly rest your left hand on the coil to keep it in the 10:00 position. Stitch until the diameter of the lid measures the same as the top opening of the pot.
4. Finish the edge using “Finishing the Edge, Method Two.” Your lid should fit on top of the pot, just inside the handles.
Making a Ball Knot
When making a pot with a lid, a ball knot is an easy way to finish it off.
1. Wrap a 12" length of cording with a fabric strip. Secure the end of the fabric strip with a straight pin. Tie the ball knot as shown. Both ends of wrapped cording should be at least 2" long.
2. Once the knot is tied tightly, insert the ends of the cord through the hole in the top of the lid. On the inside of the lid, hand sew the cording ends in place. Trim off the excess wrapped cording. Apply fabric glue to the cut ends of the cording to prevent fraying. Your beautiful pot is finished!
Pitcher
One of my favorite forms in pottery is the pitcher. Pitchers can come in all sorts of interesting shapes and sizes. I’ll show you how to add a spout and a handle to a three-piece pot, turning it into a pitcher. Look in your kitchen or on the Internet to find inspiration for your pitcher!
Finished Measurements
Height: 7"
Diameter across widest point: 6¼" (not including handle)
What You’ll Need
¾ yard of fabric
50' of 3⁄16"-diameter cording
4"-diameter starter coil
4" x 14" piece of heavy interfacing
Matching thread
Straight pins
Fabric glue, clear glue, or seam sealant
Seam ripper
Hand sewing needle
Polymer beads for embellishment (optional)
Nexcare 3M Durable Cloth Tape (optional)
Making the Bottom Element
We’ll make the bottom element first. Refer to “Let’s Start Sewing” (page 13) and “The Direct-Lift Method” (page 18) for detailed instructions on completing the following steps.
1. Cut 30 fabric strips, ¾" wide.
2. Make a 5"-diameter base coil. Mark your starting point with a pin.
3. Raise the base coil directly up to the side of your sewing machine. Continue stitching until the side of the bottom element measures 3¾". Stop directly above the starting point.
4. Finish off the edge as desc
ribed in “Finishing the Edge, Method One” on page 20.
5. Measure the top diameter of the bottom element and write down the number.
Making the Top Element
For the top element, refer to “Starter Coils” (page 17) and “The Gradual-Lift Method” (page 18) for detailed instructions on completing the following steps.
1. With a 4"-diameter starter coil in the 9:00 position, stitch one row of wrapped cording around the coil.
2. Stitch two rounds in the 9:30 position.
3. Stitch three rounds in the 10:00 position.
4. Stitch three rounds in the 11:00 position. Remove the piece from under the presser foot, and then measure the diameter.
5. Raise the piece to the 12:00 position and continue stitching until the diameter matches the diameter of the bottom element.
6. Finish off the edge as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method One.”
Sewing Pottery by Machine Page 3
