Making the Neck and Spout
The spout is a separate three-row insert that is added to the neck. An insert will add height to a specific area.
1. From scraps of cording, cut one 1"-long piece, one 2"-long piece, and one 3"-long piece for the spout.
2. Wrap each piece of cording with a fabric strip, leaving about ⅜" of fabric at each end. Secure the ends of the fabric strip with a straight pin.
3. Centering the 1"-long piece on the 2"-long piece, zigzag stitch them together.
4. Centering the 2"-long piece on the 3"-long piece, zigzag stitch them together. Mark the center point with a straight pin.
5. For the neck, stitch one round of wrapped cording around a 4"-diameter starter coil.
6. Using the Direct-Lift method, stitch three more rows. Stop sewing directly above your starting point. Remove the piece from under the presser foot.
7. Insert a straight pin directly across from where you stopped sewing. Matching the straight pins, pin the 3"-long side of the insert to the neck. Return the piece under the presser foot and stitch the insert to the neck.
8. Continue stitching the wrapped cording around the neck. When you come to the insert, stitch the cording over the top of the insert as shown, stitching as close to it as possible.
9. Stitch another complete row, so that you have two rows over the insert.
10. Finish off the edge as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method Two” on page 20.
11. Use a seam ripper to remove the starter coil; trim any loose strings or fibers. Finger-press or steam the spout into shape. Examine the spout for holes or areas that aren’t stitched, especially around the insert. You may have to do a little hand sewing to make it look perfect. Your neck and spout are complete!
Joining the Elements
Refer to “Joining the Elements” on page 28 for detailed instructions as needed. Pin the neck/spout to the top element, aligning their starting points. Using a whipstitch, sew the two elements together. Remember that your stitches will show. Then, join the top element to the bottom element using the connecting stitch.
Making the Handle
1. Cut five 12"-long pieces of cording and zigzag stitch them together side by side to make a 1" x 12" strip.
2. Wrap the interfacing around the cording strip, leaving 1" of interfacing at each end. Stitch the interfacing to the cording strip as shown. Trim the ends of the interfacing, leaving ½" at each end. This is the core of the handle.
3. In the same manner that you wrapped the cording, wrap fabric strips around the handle from step 2, making sure to cover the interfacing at each end. Secure the fabric at each end with a straight pin.
4. Zigzag stitch along one side of the handle, stitching on and off the edge. When you reach the end of the handle, pivot the handle 180° and zigzag stitch in the opposite direction. When you reach the end of the handle, pivot and sew another row of zigzag stitches. Repeat until you come to the other edge of the handle. Zigzag stitch on and then off the second edge.
5. At each end of the handle, fold the ½" of fabric and interfacing under and hand stitch them in place to make a finished end. Apply a drop of fabric glue to each cut edge to prevent fraying.
6. Measure 2½" from one end of the strip, mark with a pin, and then stitch the end of the strip to that point, forming a roll. Hand sew it in place, making sure the cut edges don’t show.
7. Pin the flat end of the handle to the top of the pitcher, directly across from the point of the spout. Pin the rolled end of the handle to the pitcher, forming a nice rounded arch. Then hand stitch the handle in place, hiding your stitches so that they don’t show on the inside or outside of the pitcher.
8. For embellishments, I used six matching coils and polymer clay beads. To make the coils, refer to “Swirls” on page 51. Evenly space the coils around the top of the pitcher and hand stitch them in place. Then hand sew a bead at the center of each coil. For detailed instruction on making polymer beads, refer to “Making Beads” on page 48. Your beautiful pitcher is finished!
HELPFUL HINT
You can make your pieces functional for flowers or dried stems by putting a glass or plastic container in the opening. Remember, though, don’t get your piece wet!
Not Your Grandma’s Teapot
For those of you that have an interest in pottery, you’ll know that teapots have become a hot item in the last few years. “Funky” seems to be the style of choice. The more unusual the better!
Once you’ve mastered the techniques in the previous projects, try this advanced teapot project. We’ll be combining top and bottom elements, and then adding a neck and foot. Finally, we’ll add a lid, a handle, and a spout. Your teapot will be really funky because it’s made from fabric and cording!
Finished Measurements
Height: 8"
Diameter across widest point: 6" (not including handle)
What You’ll Need
⅝ yard of fabric of your choice
50' of 3⁄16"-diameter cording
3"-diameter starter coil
Matching thread
Straight pins
Fabric glue, clear glue, or seam sealant
Seam ripper
Small presser foot*
Hand sewing needle
Nexcare 3M Durable Cloth Tape (optional)
⅛ yard of bright fabric for embellishments (optional)
Small amount of green polymer clay for lid and side embellishments (optional)
2 silk leaves for side embellishment (optional)
*See “Presser Foot for Spout” on page 45.
PROJECT NOTES
For this teapot, we’ll be trying to make the top and bottom elements as round as possible. If you remember your geometry, a hemisphere (top and bottom elements) is twice as wide as it is tall. That will be our goal. Don’t get discouraged if the elements don’t come out as round as you’d like. The important thing is that the top and bottom elements have the same diameters. Remember—this is a funky teapot!
Making the Bottom Element
Refer to “Let’s Start Sewing” (page 13) and “The Gradual-Lift Method” (page 18) for detailed instructions on completing the following steps.
1. Cut 30 fabric strips, ¾" wide.
2. Stitch a 3"-diameter base coil. Mark your starting point with a straight pin.
3. With the base coil in the 9:30 position, stitch one round. Stitch four more rounds in the 10:00 position.
4. Stitch four rounds in the 11:00 position.
5. Stitch four rounds in the 11:30 position.
6. Stitch five rounds in the 12:00 position.
7. Finish off the top edge using “Finishing the Edge, Method One” on page 20.
8. Measure the top diameter of the bottom element and write down the number.
Making the Top Element
1. Stitch one row of wrapped cording around a 3"-diameter starter coil.
2. Stitch four rounds in the 10:00 position.
3. Stitch four rounds in the 11:00 position.
4. Stitch four rounds in the 11:30 position.
5. Stitch five rounds in the 12:00 position.
6. Remove the top element from under the presser foot. Measure the diameter; it should be the same as the diameter of the bottom element. If it isn’t, continue stitching, or remove a few stitches, until the elements have equal diameters. Audition the two elements by placing them one on top of the other.
7. Finish off the top edge using “Finishing the Edge, Method One.”
8. Use a seam ripper to remove the starter coil; trim any loose threads.
Making the Neck and Foot
The neck and foot are identical; use the following instructions to make both elements.
1. Stitch one row of wrapped cording around a 3"-diameter starter coil.
2. Move to the 12:00 position and stitch two rounds. Finish off the last round as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method Two” on page 20.
3. Use a seam ripper to remove the starter c
oil; trim any loose threads. Finger-press the element to make it smooth and round. Repeat steps 1–3 to make a second element.
Making the Lid
The lid should fit inside the neck element.
1. Measure across the wider opening on the neck element, one row down from the edge, to determine the diameter. Write down the number.
2. Stitch a coil in the 9:30 position. You’ll want the diameter of the finished lid to be the same measurement noted in step 1. Stop stitching 3" before the coil reaches this measurement.
3. Finish off the lid edge as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method Two”.
Making the Spout
The spout is the trickiest part of this project. Take a deep breath—you can do it!
1. Replace your presser foot with a smaller foot that is shallow from front to back. See “Presser Foot for Spout” below.
2. Wrap a length of cording with a fabric strip.
3. Using the fabric-wrapped cording, make a loop just large enough to go around the presser foot on your sewing machine. Secure the loop with a straight pin, making sure that the beginning of the cording is on the left side of the loop.
4. Holding the loop as vertically as possible, start carefully zigzag stitching the cording around the loop. Continue stitching, keeping your work as vertical as possible. The more vertical you can hold it, the smaller the diameter of your spout will be. The base should be 1" wider than the tip of the spout.
5. Stitch until the side of the spout measures 2½". Finish off the edge as described in “Finishing the Edge, Method Two.”
6. Examine the spout. Hand sew the starting point of your spout, tucking the wrapped cording to the inside to make a finished edge around the spout opening.
PRESSER FOOT FOR SPOUT
The key to making the spout is to use a small presser foot. The presser foot needs to be as short from front to back, as possible. The smaller the foot, the smaller you’ll be able to make the spout. If you don’t have a small presser foot, check with your local sewing-machine dealer to find the best foot for your sewing machine. I have a Kenmore sewing machine and used the gathering/shirring foot for my machine. I also replaced the large thumb screw that holds the presser foot on my machine with one that had a smaller head. (My husband found the new screw in his stash of stuff. Men have stashes too!) If you don’t have a small presser foot for making the spout, you can still make this project. Just eliminate the spout, reposition the handle, and you will have a funky pot!
Making the Handle
1. Cut four 12"-long pieces and one 9"-long piece of cording.
2. Zigzag stitch the four 12"-long pieces of cording together side by side, keeping the ends as even as possible. This is the core of the handle.
3. Wrap fabric strips around the handle core, making sure the fabric extends ½" beyond the handle core at each end. Secure the fabric with a straight pin at each end.
4. Zigzag stitch across each end of the handle, and then zigzag stitch two rows down the middle.
5. Wrap the 9"-long piece of cording with fabric strips, leaving ½" of fabric at each end. Turn the ends of the fabric under and secure with straight pins.
6. Center the wrapped 9"-long piece of cording lengthwise on the handle core. Carefully zigzag along both sides of the 9"-long piece as shown.
Assembling the Teapot
Assemble the teapot, starting with the neck and working down to the foot.
1. Pin the neck element to the top element butting their starting points. Whipstitch the two elements together, making sure your stitches are as neat as possible. Finger-press the neck.
2. Turn the bottom element upside down. Center the foot so that there are an equal number of rounds on each side of the bottom element’s starting point. Pin the foot in place with straight pins. Don’t sew the pieces together yet.
3. Place the top element on top of the bottom element, aligning the finishing points. Make sure the neck and foot are lined up, adjusting the position of the foot as needed. Separate the top and bottom elements and then whipstitch the foot to the bottom element, again making sure your stitches are neat.
4. Place the spout on the top element in a position that’s pleasing to you; pin in place. Whipstitch the spout to the top element.
5. Pin the top element to the bottom element, butting their finishing points. Use a connecting stitch to join the elements, referring to “Joining the Elements” on page 28 as needed.
6. Shape the handle in a manner that’s pleasing to you, or you can follow the example shown on page 42. Pin in place, and then whipstitch the handle to the teapot.
Adding Sassafras
Sassafras is a fun term I learned in a pottery class, and I wanted to share it with you. It’s really just adding something to your piece to give it pizzazz. For this funky teapot, I used several different fun things to make my sassafras. This is your opportunity to think outside the box and give your teapot some sass!
I added a large spiral flower and a polymer clay knob to the lid. On the side of the pot, I added three smaller spiral flowers, polymer clay beads, and purchased silk leaves to finish it off. Grandma would be proud!
Spiral Flowers
1. To make the large spiral flower, cut a 2½" x 22" strip from the bright fabric.
2. Fold the strip in half, right sides together and stitch across each end.
3. Turn the strip right side out and align the raw edges. Machine baste along the long side, about 3⁄16" from the raw edges. Remove the strip from your machine, leaving long threads at each end.
4. Pull one thread to gather the edge. As you pull the thread the strip will begin to spiral and create a flower. Pull the thread until the flower is the proper size for your lid. Hand sew a few stitches to hold the flower in place, and then hand sew the flower to the lid.
5. To make the flowers on the side of the teapot, cut one 1½" x 7" strip and two 1" x 7" strips from the bright fabric. Repeat step 2–4 to make three flowers. Then stitch them to your teapot in a manner that’s pleasing to you.
Polymer Clay Beads
For the knob on the lid, I made a large polymer clay bead in a fun, contrasting color. For the flowers on the side of the teapot, I made three small polymer clay beads. Hand sew a bead at the center of each flower. For detailed instruction on making polymer clay beads, refer to “Making Beads” on page 48.
Embellishments
YOUR POTS CAN really make a statement when you add embellishments. This is your opportunity to let your imagination take over! You can use something as simple as leftover yarn or stray buttons, or try making polymer beads. The options are many, and I’ll share a few of my favorites here.
Yarn is a fun and easy way to add texture and visual interest to a pot.
Yarn
You can make interesting embellishments with yarn scraps. I like to mix several different yarns to give the embellishment lots of texture. I especially like to use novelty eyelash yarn in the mix—it adds an extra dimension. Try stringing polymer beads onto the yarn. Or you could even knit or crochet a band around the neck of your pot.
For this pot, I hand stitched several strands of yarn in different colors and textures in a spiral, and then stitched a bead in the center.
Polymer Clay
You can make great embellishments using polymer clay. It’s easy to manipulate, and you can use tools you have around the house to make pendants, buttons, or beads. You can form polymer clay into any size or shape to complement any piece. And you can even blend the colors to match your fabrics. You’ll find many books on polymer clay and bead making at your local book store, and they’re full of great ideas! For an easy pendant or bead, follow the instructions below.
Making Pendants
1. Roll out a piece of black polymer clay to a thickness of ⅛", and then cut it into a 1⅜" x 1⅝" rectangle.
2. Using a color similar to your fabric, roll out a piece of polymer clay to a thickness of ⅛". The piece should measure at least 1⅜" x 1⅝" (you’ll trim it t
o size later).
3. Carefully press a texture of your choice into the surface of the clay piece from step 2, being careful not to press through the clay. You can use almost anything to make the texture—rubber stamps, shells, lace, plastic onion bags—whatever you find around the house. I used the stamens from an old plastic flower. You can also add some pearly powder to the surface. I used Pearl Ex powdered pigments by Jacquard (see “Resources” on page 62).
4. Cut the textured clay into a 1¼" x 1½" rectangle, and then carefully center it on top of the black rectangle. Lightly press the two pieces together.
5. To make a hole for attaching the pendant to your pot, run a pointed object, such as a toothpick or stylus, through the clay. Center the hole near the top edge of the pendant, making sure the hole is large enough to accommodate the twine.
6. Place the pendant on a ceramic tile, baking dish, or cardboard covered with foil. Bake the pendant according to the manufacturer’s instructions and allow it to cool completely.
Sewing Pottery by Machine Page 4
