DIY Autoflowering Cannabis
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One method is to simply tuck the big fan leaves underneath and behind branches and stems. This exposes the flower tips to light. It can be done gently so that the leaves still can serve their function.
Another method is called FIM (for Shucks, I Missed). Instead of taking the whole tip off, only the tip’s leaves are pinched or cut off (which must be why it is comparatively low stress). This causes four colas to form in replacement. If done to shoots at the 3rd or 4th node, you get a very bushy plant. FIMing on Autoflowers, while setting them back during recovery, is not as hard on the plant as is topping. Still, it is not suggested for first grows, even though you might want to experiment later.
Pinching or high-stress training. WINNI CASACOP.
In a much less energy-draining procedure, a plant can be simply bent and twisted, with nothing snipped or cut off (although often plants are pinched first and then trained using a low-stress method). This is like pulling a tomato down. Tomato plants and Cannabis will respond to this treatment in the same way.
Bending a stem confuses the plant as to where the top should be, and it sends auxins to nodes along the stem in an attempt to keep the plant in flowers, as long as the stems don’t start to grow upward again. In the case of Autoflowering Cannabis plants, the idea is to gently pull the plant stems into a more horizontal position so that all its nodes are directly exposed to the same amount of light.
LST Bending method. WINNI CASACOP.
LST methods—There are a couple of established procedures that use low-stress training. The first is known as SCROG or Screen of Green. This consists of placing a net over the plant so it grows into it.
Once a stem starts to grow through the netting, it is pushed back down under the net, bending it horizontally. This causes the auxin movement previously discussed, and new growth from these nodes grows upward through the net.
Another popular method of low-stress training is to train branches using string, yarn, bonsai training wire, or hemp twine (if you don’t think the plants will be offended). Tie the string to the first branch, gently bend it to the side of the container, and secure it there with tape or a binder clip.
LST Bending by simply attaching to the side of the pot will expose more nodes.
Some growers use pots with holes drilled into the lip and secure the string through these. You should continue to train new branches all the way up to the first week or so of flowering, when the plant will stop elongating.
Circular LST ties the branches down in a circular or spiraling fashion. Not all Autoflowering Cannabis can handle this. It is an easy way to maximize exposure to light and to increase yield to a maximum but may require the removal of a few leaves. It is pretty easy if you know the trick: the plant should be started at the side of the container so it is easier to guide the branches along its edge.
LST Circular training. JUDITH HOERSTING.
After the tip starts growing vertically again (a day or so later), make a second tie down and so on, eventually pulling the branch around the pot. You can clip the branch to the side of the container to help train it. You will end up with a beautiful arrangement and should have great yields, all other things like genetics and lighting conditions being equal.
This is possible because when Autoflowering Cannabis is young, the branches and stems are easy to bend without damaging them. If they do snap, just leave them as they probably will slowly repair themselves.
However, as the plant matures, stems become stiffer and you have to be more deliberate and slower in training. Then it may take a couple of days to pull a branch all the way down. And, because these plants go to flower so quickly, there is a point after which it doesn’t make sense to train any further. Experience will guide you if you decide to engage in training at all.
The advantage to this LST method is that it is simple. It does not require any special equipment. You can also get creative as you learn the way these plants grow.
If you want to train an Autoflowering Cannabis plant, start soon after the emergence of the first set of true leaves. Over time, after you have grown a few crops, you will intuitively know when you can perform LST and what to expect from it.
Again, you may never need to train an Autoflowering Cannabis plant. The plant’s breeder may have taken care of it for you.
JUST PAY ATTENTION
Keep an eye on your plants, checking them daily, at least. Keep some notes so you don’t forget. Watch the addition of leaves, the appearance of sex parts, branching, changes in color, speed of growth, and all the other things discussed here.
Look for the pests and plagues that can hit any plant. Don’t let plants dry out. And, if you see a need, then fertilize.
WHEN AUTOFLOWERING CANNABIS IS READY TO HARVEST
Harvest timing can impact the characteristics of your flowers. Fortunately, there are clear signals given off by Autoflowering Cannabis to indicate the proper time. First, as the wanted compounds accumulate, the liquid in a plant’s trichomes turns milky or cloudy. Then, all the trichomes gradually turn a darker color, best described as honey or amber.
Using stigma and trichomes to determine harvest time. WINNIE CASACOP.
Harvest with early trichome clouding, and the high should be more energetic. Most commercial growers believe that at 70% milky trichomes the high is at its greatest intensity, with the highest amounts of THC. Lots of CBD is produced by the time 60 to 70% of the trichomes are amber, and the high is said to be less energetic and more sedative.
At the same time, as the trichomes color up, the white stigma curl a bit and start to turn brown. These alone are not a reliable indication of time to harvest, however. They can turn brown when touched during the growing process (so don’t touch them, no matter how tempted), and water and cold temperatures can also prematurely brown them. Nonetheless, they can help indicate harvest timing, so you need to watch them.
The trichomes indicate a flower that is ready to harvest. Most are milky. Some are amber. FRED GUNNERSON, SOFRESHFARMS.
All things considered, once 50 to 90% of the stigma are brown, it is time to check out the trichomes with the hand lens. For your first grow, start checking trichomes when 25% of the stigma are brown. Remember not to touch the buds while doing so, if at all possible, as those trichomes are fragile.
It is best to use a magnifying glass or a small hand lens, your cell phone, or the closeup setting or macro lens on a digital camera to gauge trichome and pistil color changes. Finally, there are several inexpensive microscope attachments for your computer that will show your flowers on a screen. Do use some sort of magnification when determining harvestability.
Note that if (God forbid!) a plant continues to mature beyond the point of harvest, trichomes will turn gray and start to fall off. This would be 2 or 3 weeks after the first trichomes cloud up. It is doubtful you will ever let it happen—in any case, you shouldn’t.
Autoflowering Cannabis flowers often do not all ripen at the same time. The flowers closest to the light are ready first, which makes sense. This means you must look at several flowers through magnification when making a harvest decision. It also means you should only harvest the buds that are actually ripe.
Finally, ripeness is in the eye of the user. As you become experienced, you will find that somewhere on the spectrum of trichome and pistil color will be your perfect harvest. Just remember, too early or too late and you are not going to get the maximum benefits of these plants, insofar as cannabinoids and terpenes are concerned.
A FEW FINAL WORDS ON GROWING
That’s it. Autoflowers are truly easy plants to grow. Nature and breeders have ensured nothing about it need be complicated or difficult. Now, just grow some. That is the best way to learn how. Go ahead, without fear. Don’t bother to train or pinch the plants. Just provide light, water, and the proper temperature and humidity.
Be ready to add additional nutrients if the plant calls for it. Keep notes. These days, that includes taking lots of pictures with your cell phone or digital camera.
Once you see a female flower or a pollen sac, you won’t forget the way they look, and it will become easier to recognize them in future grows. And once you see how these plants operate, you will automatically (just like recognizing the appearance of their flowers) know what to do. It is just like growing tomatoes, as I keep saying.
Finally, don’t skimp on drying and curing. This is what makes mere ditch weed turn into fine Cannabis. It pays to set up a system and follow it. It takes a bit of patience, and you must not rush things. Oh, and, most important, have fun.
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PESTS AND OTHER POTENTIAL PROBLEMS
AUTOFLOWERING CANNABIS is a plant, and there is always an insect or disease trying to take any plant out. (They want to live, too.) Be prepared, is the motto, especially when growing a fast-moving plant like Autoflowering Cannabis.
Actually, one of its saving graces is that Autoflower plants grow very fast. Pests can miss their opportunity. And, Autoflowers don’t require specific hours of light to bloom. This means that if you have problems you cannot fix, you can always start over and almost catch up, rather than having to wait for a few seasons to roll around so you have the right photoperiod.
PESTS THAT LIKE AUTOFLOWERING CANNABIS
All plants can get attacked by pests, and Autoflowering Cannabis plants are no exception. Fortunately, the inclusion of the scrappy Cannabis ruderalis in their genes gives Autoflowering Cannabis plants some resistance. And, breeders are always working to improve upon their plants’ natural abilities to grow pest-free. These efforts, and fast growth, make it difficult for some enemies to take hold or have an impact when they do.
There are lots and lots of books on plant pests, and as a gardener, you should have at least one as a reference. Still, there are some specific rules you should follow to prevent or minimize pests on Autoflowering Cannabis, and there are some specific critters that merit special note.
The two-spotted spider mite, Tetranychus urticae, is one of the most common mite species of agricultural importance. If you see fine spider webs on your house plants, you probably have spider mites. USDA, ELECTRON AND CONFOCAL MICROSCOPY UNIT.
As a gardener, you already know that prevention is the best route. Keep your grow and grow areas clean, provide adequate air movement, and watch the humidity. Prevent pests.
Some specific pests
Here are the major specific pests for which you should be on the lookout. You are probably familiar with most of these as most can attack tomatoes (and other vegetables). Knowing what they look like is important. So is knowing what the proper organic remedy is to prevent or control them.
Spider mites—The two-spotted spider mite has a particular fondness for any Cannabis. These tiny (0.5 mm, 1/50th of an inch long) cell-sucking insects can be the bane of growing Autoflowering Cannabis. Here is where your hand lens will come in handy.
First signs of an infestation of mites are tiny white or orange spots appearing all over leaves, which then turn yellow. If you turn these leaves over, you will see tiny eggs and the characteristic webbing created by spider mites. It is most pronounced at nodes. The buds of badly infected plants will also become covered with the webbing.
Since spider mites thrive under hot and dry conditions, temperatures should be kept below 27°C (80°F), and the humidity should be controlled. Many commercial growers apply a mist every few hours. You might use a spray bottle a few times a day.
Help prevent spider mite infestations by keeping your growing area clean. Don’t bring in other plants. If outdoors, don’t kill beneficials by spraying any generalized insecticides. Keep plants in a constant breeze as this makes it more difficult for the mites to reproduce.
To kill spider mites, use commercially available neem-based products or Spinosad. Read the instructions carefully so you know how long the formula lasts and when to reapply. Mites are tough little critters. They are so tough that you really should toss your soil after the current grow and thoroughly clean everything.
Biological control employs the predator Mesosaeiulus longipes. This is an aggressive mite that works quickly. Phytoseiulus persimilis works well and is also available commercially. Lady bugs and another spider mite destroyer, Stethorus punctillum, are also available to reduce mite populations, though these probably only work indoors. If you use biologicals, you need to be careful as they can impact other wanted predators.
Male broad mite. ERBE, POOLEY: USDA, ARS, EMU.
Grow stores will have lots of products from which to choose. Spray the entire grow area, the plants, soil, and containers. An effective home remedy spray for spider mites is a mixture of 9 parts water and 1 part rubbing alcohol.
Russet and broad mites—These tiny (0.5mm, 1/50th of an inch long) insects also suck the juices from leaves and stems. They are almost impossible to see, even with a good hand lens or microscope. Look, however, for first signs of wet or glossy-looking leaves that curl or develop drooping leaf tips. Later the leaves turn yellow and bronze and drop off. If plants are in flower, (alas) these will turn brown and die.
Russet and broad mites are very hard to eradicate as they lay their eggs inside the plant. Neem oil is the first recommendation. The predatory mites Neoseiulus Californians work well and are less harsh on the plants. A fungal remedy is MET52, Metarhizium anisopliae Strain F52, available from grow stores. Aloe products won’t kill them, but mites will avoid aloe and move to treated trap plants such as broad beans.
Fungus gnats. JEZEBELITHACA AND BY ICH, WIKIMEDIA COMMONS.
Heat may help you deal with russet and broad mites. If you can safely heat your grow area to 46–49°C (115–120°F) for an hour, you can do wonders. So will 10 seconds of water at 60°C (140°F) degrees. It is difficult for any mite to survive that. Obviously, you will need to remove your plants first as it is difficult for them to survive the heat, too.
Fungus gnats—These tiny flies breed in the top layer of soil. They mine roots which stunts plant growth, and they are very annoying as they fly around. Fungus gnats are attracted to and thrive in soil that has been overwatered and are normally not a problem if you let the soil surface dry out in between watering.
Aiming a fan on your soil will speed up drying and make it harder for gnats to move around. A physical barrier made by covering the soil with newspaper or a cut paper bag prevents adults from getting into the soil and laying eggs.
Organic solutions again include neem oil. Products containing Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelenisis (Bt) work great as well. They are best when applied while watering. Stratiolaelaps scimitus lives in the soil and will take out larva. You can also spread diatomaceous earth on the soil.
White flies—Tiny white flies lay eggs on the undersides of leaves. After they hatch, the larva suck the juices. Their numbers can become quite large. Often you won’t notice them until the population increases and all of a sudden you see lots of adults flying around. In addition to these annoying swarms, you will note leaves yellowing and a general decline in the health of the infested plant.
Treat white flies with neem oil or Spinosad products. You have to repeat applications as white flies are difficult to fully eradicate. When you spray, cover soil and the growing container. If you are growing indoors, parasitic Trichogramma wasps can be used to control populations.
Powdery mildew—White spots and powder on leaves are the signs of powdery mildew, a fungus that attacks Autoflowering Cannabis and eats leaves. A few fuzzy spots soon spread to other leaves. Infected buds are unusable. If you grow tomatoes, you have probably seen it. It can coat a plant in a matter of days.
Spores of powdery mildew are in the air, but they are encouraged by high humidity as moisture is needed for the fungus to grow. Good air circulation makes it difficult for the fungi to get established so using a fan is a good preventative measure.
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If your plants are hit by powdery mildew, reducing humidity to below 45% is a must. It is also imperative that you have a change of air, not just movement. Isolate your plants so they don’t spread the disease.
Early detection is key. Once you find it, immediately use a spray made of any of several home remedies: Baking soda (30mL/3.8 liters or 2 tablespoons/gallon of water), milk (1 to 9 parts water), hydrogen peroxide (mix 5mL of 35% strength hydrogen peroxide to 3.8 liters of water, or 1 teaspoon/gallon). Neem oils as per instructions are some of the best commercial remedies.
Aerated compost tea sprayed on leaves is a good prophylactic move. The microbes in the tea take up space and nutrients that would have been used by pests.
Powdery mildew on leaves. HAROLD FRAZIER, NEW BREED SEED.
Botrytis is another fungus that attacks Autoflowering Cannabis. It causes damping off of seedlings, weakens and destroy stems, and, most heart breaking, can infect and kill flowers. (Ah, the injustice of all that waiting, only to have them cut down in their prime!) It is hard to spot until established with a gray, white, or blue-greenish mold growing on the inside of the flower bud.
Look for signs of Botrytis in flowers. It starts with a drying leaf sticking out from a cola. And keep looking even when the flower has been harvested and is drying. This is a real pest, and if you get it, you will need to clean up to get rid of the spores. The best bet is to prevent it by making sure you have good air circulation.