Advanced Criminal Investigations and Intelligence Operations
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Health Department, Clerk of Circuit Court, or Board
Sec. 5.
(a) A copy of the decree of the court changing the name of any natural
person, certified under the seal of the court by the clerk of the court,
is sufficient evidence of the name of the person, and of a change hav-
ing been made, in any court of Indiana.
(b) In the case of a petition described in section 2(b) of this chapter, the court shall send a copy of the final decree to the state department of
health and to the local health department of the county.
(c) In the case of a petition filed by a person at least 17 years of age, the court shall send a copy of the final decree to the clerk of the circuit
court or board of registration of the county where the person resides.
As added by P.L.1-1998, SEC.24.
Defenses against
Methods of Entry
4
The U.S. military and law enforcement communities do not teach surrepti-
tious entry or methods of burglary (which would be wrong). What they do
teach is defenses against methods of entry (DAME) or how to prevent, detect, and investigate burglaries. Obviously, to know how to prevent, detect, and investigate burglaries and provide security and counterintelligence services, it only makes sense to understand how unauthorized, covert, or surreptitious entry is accomplished by spies, burglars, thieves, and others.
There are three common types of locking systems: (1) the pin tumbler
system, (2) the wafer tumbler system, and (3) the side bar system. Warded locks are also commonly used on door locks using skeleton keys, padlocks, and handcuffs.
Neutralization of locks and locking devices can be accomplished in a
clandestine manner, leaving no trace, and entry gained by covert means.
In addition to locks and windows and doors with locking devices, DAME
may be achieved by other methods of target hardening through a variety
of security technologies and access control hardware. These include, but are not limited to, lighting, barriers (such as fencing and walls), and alarms and other early warning systems (such as sensors, video cameras, enhanced vision surveillance devices, etc.).
Harry Houdini became famous as The Handcuff King because of his
ability to escape from handcuffs. He later became famous as an escapologist and a magician. He is rumored to have worked undercover as an operative
for the U.S. Secret Service, the London Metropolitan Police Force Criminal Investigation Division (CID or Scotland Yard), and other law enforcement
and intelligence agencies in the United States and Great Britain. He was also a close friend of Dr. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, the author of the Sherlock Holmes mystery novels. (See Infamous Murders & Mysteries by Dr. Robert Girod.) There are various methods of picking locks on handcuffs that are used by
locksmiths, magician-escapologists, and criminals. Many begin by using a
common bobby pin with the plastic tip removed. Bend the end that had been concealed and put it into the key hole. Take it out and bend it the other way making an angle shape having two bends. Then insert it into the keyhole of the handcuffs. Bend the edge of the bobby pin down and release the latches that will open the jaws of the handcuffs. If you have a double lock, put the bobby pin in the keyhole on the other side and turn it around to release the 63
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double lock latches and open the jaw. Use care, as the pick may break while you are working on the double lock because of the additional force needed, causing you to be in worse shape than before.
Basic Lock Picking
Lock picking is one method of locksmiths and a method that is shared by law enforcement and intelligence agents. Even if never used to gain lawful entry, such methods are useful to know in the investigation and prevention of burglary crimes and for security of facilities.
Locksmithing, naturally, requires knowledge of locks (and a lot of prac-
tice). We will discuss pin cylinder and disc tumbler locks here. Safes and automobile locks will be discussed later.
Practice Preparation
To begin practicing locksmithing and lock picking, a few items are standard fare:
• Pin cylinder lock (common night latches found in hardware stores and locksmith supply stores) (Figures 4.1 and 4.2)
• Plug follower (found at a locksmith supply store or made from a
1/2 inch diameter wooden dowel) (Figure 4.3)
• Large tweezers (for removing and inserting tumbler pins) (Figure 4.4)
• Lock picks and torsion (tension) wrench (approximately 0.025 inch
thick) (Figure 4.5)
• Vise, such as a table vise (for holding the cylinder when practicing)
(Figure 4.6)
Once you have your basic supplies and equipment, it is time to practice.
A table light and/or other lighting and a small tray to hold pins and other parts would also be useful. Figure 4.7 shows a cutaway view of a common pin tumbler lock. Take the cylinder apart by removing the retaining screws and retaining plate (at the right side, but not pictured, in the illustration in Figure 4.7).
If the cylinder has a key, insert the key, raising the pins to the shear line.
Use the key or plug follower (Figure 4.3) to prevent the springs and pins from flying. The plug will turn now and, with the retainer removed, the plug can be pulled out of the shell or case. As you pull the plug out (from the front) follow it from the rear (back) with the plug follower. The bottom pins will remain with the plug while the top pins and springs remain in the shell, held there by the plug follower.
Defenses against Methods of Entry
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Pin
Upper pins
tumblers
Shear line
Plug
Key
Pin cylinder locks
Cylinder mechanics
Figure 4.1 Pin cylinder lock (Yale).
Figure 4.2 Cut away view of pin tumbler lock. (Reprinted http://en.wikipedia.org/
wiki/File:Pin_tumbler_no_key.svg.)
Slowly and carefully remove the plug follower to remove the top pins and
springs (one at a time) from the shell. If some of the top pins are preceded by a short pin, this indicates that the cylinder was master keyed. The master pins can be discarded.
If you have a cylinder without a key, disassemble it using a shim, a nar-
row piece of thin steel, or a feeler pick (feeler gauge), illustrated in Figure 4.8.
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Figure 4.3 Key followers.
Figure 4.4 Locksmith tweezers.
Figure 4.5 Lock pick and torsion (tension) wrench tool sets.
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Figure 4.6 Common table or bench vises.
Shell
Plug
Key
Top
Grove for side ward
pin
Spring
Bottom
Shear
Driver
pin
line
pin
Pin
Key
one
pin
Figure 4.7 Cutaway view.
After the retaining screws and plate are removed, insert the shim between the plug and the shell from the rear (back). Start with the rear pin and use a feeler pick to raise each pin consecutively until you feel the shim go between the top and bottom pins. Continue until the shim is between the shear line and all the pins. The plug can be removed now, as described earlier.
When you reassemble the cylinder, follow the earlier process in reverse.
The springs and top pins should be loaded into the shell (one at a time) and retained by inserting the plug follower (Figure 4.3). T
he bottom pins should be loaded into the plug and inserted from the front while the follower is pushed out of the rear.
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1/8 inch
or
about
3 mm
Figure 4.8 Feeler and shim.
Lock Pick Practice
Once you are ready to practice picking, remove the plug from the shell.
Remove all the pins and springs, except one or two. Insert the torsion (tension) wrench (Figure 4.9) into the keyway without blocking the keyway from accepting the pick. Use light turning tension with the torsion or tension wrench while lightly lifting the bottom pin with the feeler pick (Figure 4.8).
When the shear line is reached, the lock should turn and open. If you pass the shear line, it will not open, and you must release the tension on the tension wrench to allow the spring to bring the pins back into original position.
Lock
Pick
Tension
wrench
Figure 4.9 Tension wrenches (torsion wrenches).
Defenses against Methods of Entry
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Top pins thrown upward
Rake pick
Shear line
Raking motion
Figure 4.10 Rake picks. From left to right: offset diamond pick, ball pick, half-diamond pick, short hook, medium hook, saw or L rake, snake or C rake.
Then start again. The lock usually opens clockwise, but with the plug turning the lock will open in either direction.
Next, try using the pick rake (Figure 4.10). The rake pick is used similarly to the feeler pick, but it requires less tension on the torsion (tension) wrench.
Insert it past the pins and quickly rake it outward. The most common problem is using too much tension or torsion pressure. The pick rake can also be used to rake the pick in and out quickly. Practice using varying amounts of tension pressure, until you feel the proper amount for each method.
Once you feel comfortable with both the feeler and rake picks, using only one or two pins, add one or two more pins and springs to your practice lock.
Practice each technique again until you feel proficient in each method. You may notice now that, while using the feeler pick, one of the pins will catch on the shear line before the others. You will feel the plug turn slightly. When the last pin reaches the shear line, the lock will open. Cheaper locks are usually master-keyed, which means more shear lines and are easier to pick. Continue this process until you replace all the pins and feel proficient in picking them.
Some locks, obviously, will be easier than others.
Pin Cylinder Lock
We have been discussing and working with the pin cylinder or pin tumbler lock (also known as a Yale lock), which is a lock mechanism that uses pins of varying lengths to prevent the lock from opening without the correct key
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(Figures 4.1 and 4.2). Pin tumblers are most commonly employed in cylinder locks, but may also be found in tubular pin tumbler locks (also known as radial locks). The pin tumbler is commonly used in cylinder locks. If you can master the pin tumbler lock (as discussed earlier), other types of locks will be easier.
Warded Pad Locks
One of the derivatives of the warded lock is the warded padlock. Pick keys are used for simple warded locks and will open most padlocks (Figure 4.11). The basic warded lock uses a set of obstructions, usual y consisting of concentric plates that protrude outward. When the wrong key is inserted, the edge hits one or more of the obstructions, preventing it from rotating. When the correct key rotates, it will either push against the bolt or activate a latch, opening the drawer or padlock. Warded locks cannot be picked with tension wrenches and picks because there are no pins in the lock. However, warded locks are basic in design and relatively simple to pick. A set of skeleton keys will open most warded locks.
Disc Tumbler Locks
Tumbler key locks or tubular key locks (also known as disc tumbler locks and axial pin tumbler lock) are commonly found on vending machines and things using similar locks. The pin tumbler lock has the pins radially situated around the axis of the plug. Special picks are available for these locks and provide turning force that allows each tumbler to be worked until reaching the shear line (Figure 4.12). Tubular key locks are sued on vending machines, file cabinets, pay phones, gun safes, and a variety of other containers (Figure 4.13).
Locking bolt
Wards
1
2
3
4
Figure 4.11 Warded pick keys and cutaway of a warded padlock.
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Figure 4.12 Tumbler key locks (disc tumbler locks or tubular key locks). (Used with
permission (public domain): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tubular_pin_
tumbler_lock.)
Figure 4.13 Tubular key locks are used on vending machines, file cabinets, pay phones, gun safes, and a variety of other containers.
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Pick Guns and Snap Picks
Electric pick guns or mechanical pick guns (Figure 4.14) use the same principles as picking locks by hand. The pick extends slowly forward and, once it reaches its full forward travel, it snaps back out of the lock, raking all the pins as it extracts itself. The amount of force is often adjustable. When the snapping pick (Figure 4.15) hits the bottom pin the force is transferred to the top pin, causing it to move up and away from the bottom pin. When
the top and bottom pins are apart at the same time, the slight turning
pressure or torsion force applied with a tension wrench (Figure 4.9) will open the lock.
Snap picks (Figure 4.15) can be purchased or made from 0.025 × 0.125 inch steel strips by grinding the end to fit various keyways. It is then inserted Figure 4.14 Electric pick guns or mechanical pick guns.
Figure 4.15 Snap picks.
Defenses against Methods of Entry
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into the keyway (the same as the pick gun), just touching the bottom pins. The spring is compressed. When the spring springs upward, it raps the pick end. A tension wrench provides light tension for turning force. The top pins should pop upward, making the shear line free to turn.
Schlage™ Disc Tumbler Lock
There are two types of keyway plugs or units in disc tumbler locks (Figure 4.16), each requiring a different cut on the key blank tip (ingeniously referred to as Type 1 and Type 2) from the same basic key blank (Figures 4.17 through 4.19).
There are three different keyway types: (1) one master tumbler (always farthest tumbler in the plug), (2) three series tumblers, and (3) four combination tumblers.
Figure 4.16 Disc tumbler lock. (Used with
permi
ssion (public domain): http://
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wafer_tumbler_lock#Types_and_Wafer_Arrangements.)
Type 1
Type 2
.060 inch
.060 inch
Figure 4.17 Type 1 and Type 2 key blanks.
.000
.000
Figure 4.18 Sketch of Type 1 and Type 2 key blanks.
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Advanced Criminal Investigations and Intelligence Operations
.060
.250
1.180
Key blank pick
Usually
45°
Figure 4.19 Key blanks pick.
The master tumbler (always farthest tumbler in the plug) and the three series tumblers are spring loaded to extend from the plug and prevent it from turning. When the proper key blank is inserted, the master tumbler withdraws into the plug. When an uncut key blank is inserted into the keyway, the master and three series tumblers are withdrawn into the plug. The four combination tumblers are spring loaded so that they are normally withdrawn into the plug. If an
uncut key blank is inserted into the keyway, the tumblers extend from the plug. This becomes clearer once you begin to practice on these locks. To pick these locks, you need a set of picks designed for these types of locks.
First, you can make a set of pick keys by altering the key blanks (as shown in Figure 4.19) with a 0.060 inch deep cut on both sides. On the side of the tip cut, the entire key is removed to the same level as the tip cut, and on the opposite side, a 0.060 inch deep cut is made. A short piece of material (2–3 inches) is soldered or otherwise attached to the remaining portion of the bow to provide turning force to the plug during picking. Second, a wire pick can be made from a 0.060 inch diameter wire with a beveled tip (tapered to a point on one side).
You will not be able to determine from exterior observation whether
the lock is a Type 1 or Type 2 lock. You will need to insert one of the two picks into the keyway. The correct pick key will withdraw the master tumbler and the combination tumblers. Holding the pick key in place, slide the wire pick into position. The resistance encountered while inserting the pick is the series tumblers withdrawing into the plug. If you feel resistance near the end of the travel of the pick toward the rear, the master tumbler indicates that you have chosen the wrong pick key. Repeat this step using the correct (the other) pick key. (See also Figures 4.20 through 4.27.)
Once you have the correct pick key, inserting the wire pick withdraws the series tumblers into the plug. The plug would turn now, but the wire pick
Defenses against Methods of Entry
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Figure 4.20 Cutaway view of a locking device.
(a)
(b)
Figure 4.21 Knob tool (a) and lever tool (b) for door entries.
Figure 4.22 DAME lock pick set and close-up of warded key set.
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Figure 4.23 Handcuffs and handcuff keys (note the double-lock tab at one end).
Double-lock actuator
Key
Swivel eye
Chain
Key way
Pawl
Ratchet