Personal Recollections of Sherman's Campaigns in Georgia and the Carolinas

by George W Pepper

  A good canal has also been constructed from the town to a point on the Rappahannock river, about 40 miles above, by which large quantities of wheat, flour, and tobacco were formerly received for transportation. The river affords extensive water power, which, however, has not been much used. The hills in the neighborhood, varying in height from 40 to 100 feet, abound in fine granite and freestone. About thirty years since the prospect of Fredericksburg's being a rapidly rising town was very great; but it suddenly stopped in its prosperity, and after, as it were, standing still for about twenty years, it gradually retrograded in its importance. In 1840, its population numbered nearly 4,000 souls, and in 1850, ten years after, it had only increased 88 persons — less than nine each year, and being about two per cent., in the decade — a remarkably small increase. Before the rebellion it contained five churches, one orphan asylum, two seminaries, four newspaper offices and two banks.

  The county in which Fredericksburg is situated has an area of 400 square miles, or 256,000 acres. The Rappahannock forms the boundary on the north-east, the North Ann River on the south-west, and the Mattapony rises within its limits. The surface is diversified by hill and dale. The soil is generally fertile in the vicinity of the streams. Two gold mines were worked within the county in 1850, and as before stated, freestone and granite are abundant. The canal running north-west, carries the river trade far above the falls, and the county m intersected by the Richmond and Potomac Railroad. Spottsylvania was organized in 1720, and named, in honor of Alexander Spottswood, at that time Governor; of Virginia. The capital of the county is Spottsylvania Court House, a post village on the Potomac River, and situated over sixty miles nearly due north from Richmond, with which it is connected by a turnpike road. The last return of the population gave over 16,000 persons, about one-half of whom were slaves.

  The Rappahannock is historic and worthy of a passing notice. The striking features of this celebrated river are its woods. It is nearly as large as the Shannon, and as remarkable for beauty, purity and brightness of its waters, as the grass is for verdure. It is not a scene which a poet or a painter would visit, if he wished to elevate his imagination by grand views of nature or by images of terror, but if he desire to represent the calm repose of peace and love, he would choose the banks of this bright stream as the place of residence There are several rich planters' residences in this delightful valley. I shall leave to the mineralogist the description of the valuable ores with which the surrounding hills abound, being as rich within as they are beautiful on the surface.

  One of the attractions of Fredericksburg is the monument to the mother of Washington. At present this testimonial to departed worth appears desolate and neglected. Its yards are overgrown with weeds, and the monument itself has assumed that dull, hoary aspect so indicative of ruin, and appears as if destined to moulder through all the various stages of decay. The country between Bowling Green and Fredericksburg presents a very fine appearance, being well cultivated and much ornamented by planting in various directions. The houses look neat and comfortable. The people are tolerably well informed, but very pro-slavery and attached to many old notions of Southern, chivalry. In this neighborhood is Garrett's plantation, where 'Booth was shot.

  The chief speciality of Fredericksburg is its great battle. For months the utmost pains had been taken to strengthen and furnish the place for a vigorous and protracted defence; but Burnside, actuated by the fierce and steady determination which characterized him, and sensible of the advantage of promptitude and decision, was not to be impeded by any ordinary obstacle. Disdaining the regular approaches and forms of a siege, he crossed the river and issued orders for a general assault. The desperate valor of our brave fellows was encountered by the desperate valor of the rebels, so that with appalling havoc on both sides the Union troops were terribly repulsed. Had Franklin done his duty, this disaster would have terminated in a brilliant victory.

  As Sherman's conquering soldiers caught a glimpse of the bloody hills of Fredericksburg, they would say in tones of exultation: " There is the place where the Irish Brigade fought so heroically and so grandly for the land of Washington and Franklin." A citizen showed me and scores of others the exact spot where the chivalrous Meagher led his fiery Brigade in person to the breach, and with an intrepid, steady and impetuous charge, bore down all opposition, and gained for a time possession of the ground. All honor to the beautiful memories of the dead. In one large hole, seven hundred of these gallant fellows were buried.

  "They struggled, fell, their life blood stained

  The cruel Southerner's hand, they clasped their country's flag and cried:

  God and our adopted land. Let angels spread their wings above

  Let flowers forever bloom, Let bays, green bays, spring forth to mark

  the martyr's sacred tomb."

  In the suburbs of the battle-field, the cemetery is a most interesting part of the scene. How calm and serene it now looks in its desolate splendor. Yet how well calculated to excite sad feelings! Its peculiar situation, and the singular appearance of the ruins, tell a tale that no pen can with justice describe — there is a sadness of feeling that imposes dead silence on all visitors. Many of the graves have simple labels. One is observed to be erected by an inconsolable mother, another by an aged father, an affectionate sister, a dutiful wife, or a heart-broken lover, who have followed from home, and with their own hands plucked the bodies from the scene of carnage and of death. If my country ever forgets such heroes, her very name should perish.

  The trip from Petersburg to Richmond was one of real beauty and splendor. We passed Fort Darling that so long commanded the defenses of the rebel Capital, and so persistently defied the indefatigable endeavors of our brave soldiers and sailors. Near here is Butler's celebrated Dutch Gap Canal. Fort Darling was almost impregnable. A slight glance at the narrow, tortuous channel, in connection with the heavy guns frowning from these lofty positions, afford conclusive evidence why our monitors could not pass. The shore teems with torpedoes. At one spot I saw thirty of these infernal machines. Around Fort Darling you can see iron-clads, side-wheels, monitors all splintered into pieces. Fort Darling will always be retained as a military post. It certainly is one of the most important forts in the whole country.

  Richmond reached at last. And a fine, noble, beautiful city Richmond is — more brilliant and attractive than any I have ever seen in the "sunny South." From a distance the city presents an imposing appearance. It is situated on several hills, and its grand buildings, its Spires, its monuments, its schools, speak of the greatness and splendid taste of the people. I bare traveled extensively in the Southern States, and I must confess that Richmond has more splendid buildings, more banks, more colleges, more churches, more beautiful gardens, more rebels, than any other city in the Confederacy. Everything looks so monarchical, exclusive, and lordly. The Capitol building is a fine addition to the city, affording for the citizens a beautiful and elegant promenade.

  The city, by last census, had a population of thirty-eight thousand souls; but the great influx of civil and military officials and refugees from other parts of the State, has probably raised it, of late, to a much higher figure. It is situated at the head of tide-water, at the lower falls of James River, about one hundred and fifty miles from its mouth. The city occupies a most picturesque situation, being built on Richmond and Schockoe hills, which are separated by Schockoe Creek and surrounded by beautiful scenery. It is regularly laid out and well built, the streets, which are lighted by gas, crossing each other at right angles, On Schockoe Hill are the State Capitol and other public buildings. The Capitol is an imposing edifice, and contains in its central hall Houdon's celebrated statue of Washington. On the east of the square is the Governor's mansion, now occupied by the drunkard and traitor, Letcher. Jeff. Davis resided in a private mansion, which was purchased for him by the rebel government. The city has many fine public buildings, six banks, thirteen newspapers, and thirty-three churches. In one of the three Episcopalian church
es Jeff. Davis worships.

  The fells -of James River afford immense water power, and there are very extensive factories, including four cotton and about fifty tobacco factories, flour mills, forges, furnaces, machine shops, &c, the latter of which, and particularly the Tredegar Iron Works, have been of immense service to the rebels in turning out ordnance and material of war. The annual exports of Richmond, before the rebellion, reached to near $ 7,000 000, and its imports, three-quarters of a million; but since it had the honor of being the rebel Capital, its foreign commerce has been extinguished. Vessels or gun-boats drawing ten feet can ascend to within a mile of the city, at a place called Rockets, from which the rebel Capital could be conveniently shelled. Vessels of fifteen feet draught ascend to Warwick, three miles below. A canal has been built around the folia, and above them there is navigation for over two hundred miles. The James River and Kanawha Canal, intended to extend to Covington, is completed for two hundred miles.

  Richmond has very extensive railroad communications, being the terminus of five roads running to Fredericksburg and the Potomac, (now in our hands,) to West Point and the York River, (in our hands,) to Petersonburg and Norfolk, (partly in our hands,) to Danville, Virginia, to Jackson's River, by the Central Railroad, and from these the connections lead all through the Southern States. Opposite the city are the two towns of Spring Hill and Manchester.

  Richmond is constructed with regularity and taste and many rich and varied trees of Southern clime lend their charms. Besides the city proper, there are populous suburbs, which afford splendid sites for residences, and are the summer resorts of the planters and merchants Richmond, before the war, was considered the metropolis, of Southern pride, wealth and fashion. There is a large number of public buildings, many of them splendid and costly. Capitol Hill is a lovely spot in manufactories and in commerce, Richmond ranked with the greatest cities of America. The James River affords numerous excellent sites for mills and manufactories of various kinds. The most conspicuous and fashionable part of the city was not touched by the terrible fires which attended the evacuation of the place. Five hundred houses, it is said, were destroyed. The ruins are a sad sight to behold.

  Richmond is justly celebrated for its monuments. The Washington Monument is the grandest work of art I have seen. I looked at it again and again. A mighty statue; and one cannot look at it without feeling his brow expand and his soul dilate. It is a noble specimen of architecture, both in design; and in execution it rises majestically above the Capitol and the surrounding houses. It is supported by sixteen pedestals, containing statues of Mason, of Patrick Henry, and of Thomas Jefferson, holding in his hand the immortal charter. The statue of Henry Clay is truly a noble pillar. Many of the churches are remarkable for splendor. The ministers generally remained. The notorious Dr. Burroughs, who so frequently insulted our prisoners, is here, and is universally detested. He is a northern man, with more than Southern principles. He is the contemptible preacher whom the brave Corcoran kicked out of Libby Prison.

  In a few years Richmond will be thoroughly renovated, and will become what it should be — a healthful and mild climate — a place of great refinement, wealth and intelligence— commanding, by sea and land, an extensive commerce — a city renowned for its beauty, and full of fascinations; and in short, a place where one might wish to live always, nor care to find more genial spot. Here money will be abundant, and virtue its own reward. Here you will see in the good time coming, the finest specimens of manhood and womanhood — the polished, the real chivalry of the country. In a literary point of view it will be the Athens of the Southern States, and will produce orators, poets, novelists, statesmen and philosophers. Luxury and philosophy will be associated by a system of harmonic principles.

  Richmond was founded in 1742, became the Capital of the State of Virginia in 1779, and' in June, 1861, it was made the seat of government for the Confederate States of America, whose Congress assembled there on July 20th. Its history since then is only too familiar to the country. Around the city are various hills extending a great distance, on the most important of which, fortifications were erected last summer, in the days of the “On to Richmond " cry. What fate mar now await the city, depends upon that of Jeff Davis and his army.

  I paid a short visit to the Davis palace, and by the politeness of General Halleck was permitted to glance at the splendid rooms and the gardens. I also looked to the Libby Prison, that purgatory of suicides, where so many thousands of the brave and patriotic young men of the country eked out a miserable existence. Libby Prison! As a friend remarks — what horrors have been witnessed within its walls! What sighs and. groans! What prayers and tears what nights of darkness settling on human souls! Its doors and entrance to a living charnel house; its iron-grated windows, loop-holes of hell Death was the Warden. Like the Bridge of Sighs, it will be a memorable place —forever an object of interest, awaking harrowing feelings and melancholy thoughts. Where, in the annals of Nations, is there such a hellish record as that written in Richmond — at Libby, at Bell Isle, at Castle Thunder? There are about five hundred prisoners in it now, among them the ruffianly Turner, who was so ingenious in torturing our boys.

  In my peregrinations throughout the city of Richmond, I took the liberty, in company with Surgeon McCracken, a common friend, of walking to the Lee mansion, unrecommended, and in plain republican style rang the entrance bell. Quickly there appeared at the door a good looking mulatto, who politely waited my demand. This colored servant was very courteous all kind. His manner was easy and unassuming, indicating familiarity with the duties of his office and a readiness to accommodate. Sambo seemed to have a kind heart, but was somewhat suspicious, and was very particular as to who we were, and what our business was with his master, for whom he seemed to entertain a profound attachment.

  "Can I see General Lee?" was the simple question I put on this occasion, to the servant

  ‘This is not the regular day when he receives company, and he has not yet received any visitors," he replied,” but, but " — and he surveyed me with a hesistating look, not knowing what to say next, when I observed.

  "Perhaps Mr. Lee will see a Northern clergyman in his private parlor a little while."

  "Your name, sir?" he asked.

  Mr.—of —," I replied.

  He bid me walk into the vestibule, and soon disappeared, then quickly returned, and ushered me into the parlor. I took my seat on one of the richly cushioned crimsoned sofas -constituting a part of the furniture of the room, and awaited the entrance of the great rebel chief! The room had nothing to ornament it but one table, on which was a pitcher of water — another of Spartan simplicity and, withal, some very ordinary chairs. My musings were soon interrupted by the entrance of the General, who, with an easy smile and a graceful simplicity of manner, bid me welcome as a member of Sherman's army. General Lee looks older than his portraits make him. He is nearly fifty-seven years old. His hair is gray; his head large; his brow grandly arched, and his eyes and nose of a generous greatness — finer than he is represented in the portraits. The mouth is large — the lips somewhat fallen; and it is here about the mouth that a faint feeling of vanity is visible. General Lee's manner is that of a man accustomed to homage, which has been rendered to him by the Southern people and soldiers, for the last four years. In his conversation with me, the General was extremely affable and talkative, but he undoubtedly has the faculty of being very reserved. I agree with the English Colonel, who pronounced General Lee the handsomest man he ever saw. He is tall, broad shouldered, well set up, looks every inch a soldier. He has a most captivating personale, a fair and open face, dark, liquid eyes, glowing when aroused like polished diamonds. His physiognomy is of the Corsair character, and he is peculiarly free and degage in all his attributes. He manifests no signs of vanity or personal bravado. There is not a glance that would betray the willing ambition that would say, “I am the man who commanded the armies of the South in their mission of destroying the 'fairest frame-work of government that e
ver rose to animate the hopes of mankind.'" Throughout all parts of the South he is regarded as the most consummate General in the world — hence, when he capitulated they gave up the cause as hopeless. 1 conversed with the rebel leader on a variety of subjects, upon all of which he expressed opinions. He was very emphatic in his utterances, and seemed to have weighed everything with studied care. The murder of the President met with his hearty detestation, and he regards that terrible deed as a calamity without a name. To my question, "Do you think the rebellion is ended?" lie answered, very expressively, "Yes, sir; and had it not been for the politicians, it would have been settled long ago." The politicians to whom he referred were undoubtedly Davis, Breckenridge, Toombs, and others of that sort. He believed that bitterness and revenge would soon die out from both sections, and that the soldiers of the two armies would become again united in the bonds of friendship and harmony. Had it not been for that one dark spot upon his fame, treason, I would have left the presence of General Lee, impressed with his greatness and goodness of heart.

  John Mitchell, a celebrated character, was the most powerful and brilliant of the Richmond editors. I knew Mr. Mitchell when he first became known to fame as the eloquent and heroic pleader for the liberties of poor Ireland! He was known and admired as the champion of the oppressed. I well remember his appearance at the monster meetings! At that time, his heart and soul were dedicated to the service of Ireland; and his magnificently-gifted writings soon aroused the indignation and chastisement of the British government. In Ireland, John Mitchell was a pure patriot, a conscientious republican, and a hero. Had he died there his name would have passed to immortal fame. His history in this country is too well known for comment He told me he had lost two sons in the rebel army, both of them killed, and a third had been wounded four times. Mitchell looks thin, pale, poor, and stricken; he is in the autumn of lifer— the leaf is yellow. No living man has led a more tumultuous life. When he was a young attorney in the North of Ireland, good fortune beamed on his brow. He had eminent talents; he won the hand of a beautiful and accomplished lady, the daughter of Colonel Verner, a member of the London Parliament. In 1842, Mitchell joined O'Connell, a noble Abolitionist; he then united with the young Irelanders: Thomas, Davis, Meagher, Duffy, Dennis, Reiley, and other brilliant spirits were his associate. He was so passionately fond of liberty there, that he was banished to the rocks of Bermuda. He was a troublesome convict to his keepers, and made his escape to America. He soon offended the whole nation by an offensive article defending Slavery. He moved from New York to Tennessee, where he turned planter. Afterwards he goes to Washington and publishes the Southern Citizen, a violent pro-slavery sheet in which he traduced the public men of the nation. The rebel journal soon expired, and Mr. John Mitchell goes over to France, where he remains until the breaking out of the rebellion. He embraced the Southern cause with enthusiasm. His two sons followed his example. Then came the killing of one of those sons, then came, in Paris, the death of his eldest daughter, a most beautiful young lady; then came the killing of his second son at Gettysburg. Mitchell is yet a haughty and defiant rebel.