1,000 Places to See Before You Die

by Patricia Schultz

  It can feel like time travel to stroll through the narrow streets and high-walled alleys of Shibam, a city of 7,000 where women are covered head to ankle in black and wear conical straw hats nearly two feet tall when working in the fields outside of town. Shibam’s Jami Mosque is a 10th-century marvel, whitewashed in crushed gypsum and standing near the town’s fortified 17th-century walls, while the Fort of Shibam has guarded the town since the 13th century, surviving numerous destructive floods.

  Accommodations in Shibam are limited; most travelers make for Say’un (Seiyoun), the valley’s largest town, a short drive away. Along with some of the most beautiful mosques and minarets in Yemen and an evocative market, Say’un is home to the Al-Hawta Palace, a traditional whitewashed mud-brick hotel set in a lovely garden with a tiny yet refreshing pool.

  Shibam’s use of vertical space was innovative for its time.

  WHERE: 350 miles/500 km east of Sanaa. HOW: Universal Touring Company in Sanaa specializes in customized itineraries, including those to Wadi Hadhramawt. Tel 967/1-272-861; www.utcyemen.com. Cost: 7-day tours from $830. AL-HAWTA PALACE: Tel 967/1-440-305. Cost: $120. BEST TIMES: Apr–May and Sep–Oct for dry, cool weather.

  An Otherworldly Botanical Treasure Trove

  SOCOTRA ISLANDS

  Yemen

  Utterly remote and virtually untouched, this tiny, four-island archipelago in the Indian Ocean—far off Yemen’s southern coast and halfway to the Horn of Africa—is one part Galápagos, one part Jurassic Park.

  The Socotras’ biodiversity (particularly on the eponymous main island) reflects their extreme isolation from both Arabia and Africa. Indeed, some 700 species of plants and animals found here exist nowhere else on earth: Only Hawaii and the Galápagos have greater numbers. The flora and fauna are protected by the annual monsoons, which keep predators at bay, and by the natural barrier of the islands’ geological formations. There are towering granite mountains, sheer limestone cliffs, and endless red stone ridges—all sheltering verdant valleys filled with oddly shaped trees, strange-looking insects, and the ubiquitous frankincense-producing trees, nine species of which are unique to Socotra.

  There are locals too—some 40,000 residents live on Socotra Island, many of whom speak their own non-Arabic tongue, follow a unique 23-month calendar, and subsist mostly as goatherds or fishermen. Legend has it that they’re descended from subjects of the Queen of Sheba, who ruled the mainland 3 millennia ago. Increasingly, they dabble in tourism, guiding Socotra’s barely 3,000 annual visitors to its powdery white beaches that stretch unspoiled for miles, to the world-class deep-water diving offshore, or on treks to view the islands’ unique red-sapped dragon’s blood trees. Increasingly rare, the trees can live for more than 300 years, with their unusual inside-out-umbrella shape and their cinnamon-spiked nectar.

  Despite outside pressures, the Yemeni government has kept Socotra’s development well under control, permitting shorefront tent camps instead of massive hotels, small-scale guesthouses in place of sprawling resorts. And getting to Socotra is difficult: Just a pair of flights depart each week from the Yemeni mainland. But the isolation and small number of accommodations mean that you can enjoy the sandy shores, colorful coral reefs, and groves of those otherworldly dragon’s blood trees without fear of fighting the crowds.

  The peculiar dragon’s blood trees are unique to the islands.

  WHERE: 320 miles/500 km south of the Yemeni mainland; flights from Sanaa, Aden, or Mukalla. VISITOR INFO: www.socotraisland.org. HOW: Universal Touring Company specializes in customized itineraries. Tel 967/1-272861; www.utcyemen.com. Cost: 5-day trip, $455. BEST TIME: Oct–Apr to avoid monsoon season.

  ASIA

  EAST ASIA

  SOUTH AND CENTRAL ASIA

  SOUTHEAST ASIA

  EAST ASIA

  A Walk in the Clouds

  HUANGSHAN

  Anhui, China

  Huangshan (Yellow Mountain) in eastern China’s Anhui Province is the perfect blend of natural beauty and human ingenuity. Emperors and poets have lauded the mountain range’s misty landscapes, scroll painters have sought to capture its ethereal beauty, and a thousand years of labor have gone into creating its dizzying pathways and staircases. The mountain has no religious associations: It’s as if the power of nature alone has been enough to inspire centuries of admirers.

  The range is comprised of over 70 peaks characterized by gnarled pine trees, teetering rock formations, bubbling hot springs, and a shifting sea of clouds. A cable car can transport you up (you can also travel by sedan chair), but hiking is traditional. The eastern steps will take 3 to 4 hours, the western steps 4 to 6 hours, but the longer trek is compensated by even more spectacular scenery. The going is tough and steep and is unsuitable for those with no head for heights, but the scenery is among the most amazing in the world. While the extremely fit could hike up and return down on the same day (taxis and minibuses are also available), staying at the top means the chance to experience sunrise piercing the sea of mist, surely one of China’s most awesome natural sights.

  Even though Huangshan’s hotels aren’t going to win any prizes, they should be booked well in advance. The Shilin Hotel provides compact but cozy rooms and basic services; the Xihai Hotel is a Swiss-designed establishment popular with foreign visitors.

  On the southwest slopes of the mountain, Hongcun is a venerable village of 1,000 or so residents. Founded 900 years ago, it was laid out by a feng shui master in the auspicious shape of a buffalo. One of China’s most beautiful historic villages, it is comprised of some 150 buildings, including a farmhouse and clan halls that date back to the Ming and Qing dynasties and are among the best preserved in China. Scenes in the movie Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon were filmed here in 2000.

  The Huangshan mountain range is known for its jutting granite peaks and pine trees shaped by time and the elements.

  WHERE: 315 miles/500 km southwest of Shanghai. Nearest airport is Tunxi, 40 miles/65 km away. SHILIN HOTEL: Tel 86/559-558-4040; www.shilin.com. Cost: from $190. XIHAI HOTEL: Tel 86/559-558-8888. Cost: from $165. BEST TIMES: Mist and fog shroud Huangshan at any time; May–Oct is busiest.

  “The city was bigger, noisier, brighter, more prosperous—it amazed me . . .”—Paul Theroux, Riding the Iron Rooster

  BEIJING

  China

  China’s political and cultural capital—and the center of imperial and Communist power alike for half a millennium—Beijing, home to over 15 million people, is a city in the throes of a vast transformation. Its world-famous historic sights are staggering, and the last remaining ancient hutongs (residential alleyways) are now being carefully preserved. But Beijing is also about futuristic buildings, architectural experimentation, a modern can-do spirit, and a striking optimism. It’s forward-looking and fast-paced—at least when traffic doesn’t grind it all to a standstill.

  TOP ATTRACTIONS

  THE FORBIDDEN CITY—Off-limits to commoners for 500 years, this is the largest, most complete, and best-preserved cluster of ancient buildings in China. Also known as the Imperial Palace or Palace Museum, it was the court for 24 emperors—from the 15th-century days of the Ming Dynasty until the fall of the Qing Dynasty in 1911. Fires and lootings over the years have left a largely post-18th-century shell that mimics its original layout, and much of its storied wealth and opulent furnishings are long gone. Nonetheless, this vast complex of halls, pavilions, and courtyards is a masterwork of architectural balance—monumental, but never oppressive. An audio guide helps bring it alive, with tales of eunuchs, concubines, ministers, priests, court intrigues, and fabulous excesses. It was not unusual for emperors and servants alike never to venture beyond the moat-surrounded 35-foot walls and formidable gates—the fantasy that they were at the cosmic center of the universe can readily be appreciated today. INFO: www.dpm.org.cn.

  The daunting, maze-like interior of the Forbidden City humbles the seven million visitors it receives annually.

  THE HUTONGS OF BEIJING—The bustling, frenetic
Chinese capital of traffic jams, American fast food, and oft-spectacular modern architecture does have another side—that of its labyrinthine hutongs (residential alleyways), so narrow that only pedicabs, pedestrians, and bicycles can fit through. While many of the hutongs have disappeared in the rush for development, those that remain are now being carefully preserved. They are atmospheric remnants of imperial Beijing, where honking horns give way to the occasional ding of bicycle bells and the squawks of chickens and quacks of ducks from inside walled courtyards. The chief sight in the area—sometimes referred to as the Back Lakes District—is Prince Gong’s Mansion, built in 1777 by a favorite at the court of Emperor Qianlong. But wandering about and getting lost is the best way to enjoy it—along with dining by the lakeshores and dropping into any of the tiny but lively alleyway bars.

  SUMMER PALACE—In the suburbs of Beijing, away from the hectic hustle and bustle of downtown, lies China’s largest ancient garden. Spread over 726 acres on the shores of Kunming Lake, the Summer Palace was the summertime playground for royal families, beginning with the Qing Dynasty in 1749. Its most famous resident was the Empress Dowager Cixi, who diverted navy funds to finance what would become her permanent residence. The collection of more than 2,000 beautifully landscaped gardens, temples, and pavilions had been ravaged by war and fire many times before being reconstructed to its current beauty in 1902. You can spend half a day visiting the park’s most famous sites: the half-mile Long Corridor, with painted scenes of Chinese history on every beam, pillar, and wall; the 490-foot Seventeen Arch Bridge, the longest in any Imperial Chinese garden; and the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity, where the empress managed her Court—and where tales of her many excesses abound. WHERE: 7 miles/11 km northwest of downtown Beijing.

  TEMPLE OF HEAVEN—Considered one of the finest examples of Ming Dynasty architecture, the Yongle Emperor began construction of this temple in 1406 while simultaneously overseeing the creation of the Forbidden City: Both took 14 years to complete. Like many of Beijing’s historical monuments, the Temple of Heaven (Tian Tan) has seen numerous renovations: The wooden Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, after being ravaged by fire in 1889, was rebuilt completely—without a single nail, an exact copy of the original. In the early mornings, locals flock to the huge surrounding park to perform traditional activities: tai chi, sword fencing, and amateur Peking Opera performances among them. INFO: Tel 86/10-6702-8866; www.tiantanpark.com.

  LAMA TEMPLE—Visitors often overlook this 300-year-old temple (officially called Yonghe Temple) in northeast Beijing. The Yongzheng Emperor’s former home became a Buddhist monastery that was patronized by the imperial family throughout the Qing Dynasty; it is China’s largest (16 acres) and best-preserved lamasery, with Tibetan-influenced architecture. A series of five halls and courtyards is crammed with decorative stonework, sweeping red and gold eaves, and Buddhist art. The details are delightful: Decorative steles are carved with calligraphy and stone lions smile against red walls. Visitors come and go, spinning prayer wheels and burning incense and visiting the 59-foot-tall Buddha sculpted from the trunk of a single sandalwood tree. INFO: Tel 86/10-6404-4499.

  OLYMPIC GREEN—Beijing may be rightly famous for its imperial architecture, but some of its contemporary buildings are just as awe-inspiring. A walk around Olympic Green, site of the 2008 Summer Olympic Games, is an eye-opening lesson in the architectural swagger and scale of modern-day Beijing. The green is presided over by an ultramodern tower known as Ling Long Pagoda. The National Stadium has a spectacular and challenging roof that resembles a bird’s nest, whereas the National Aquatics Center is nicknamed the Water Cube for its translucent, avant-garde design. The latter reopened in 2010 as a water park, where slides and wave pools offer a refreshing pastime for kids and kids at heart. INFO: Tel 86/10-8836-2233; http://en.beijing2008.cn/venues.

  Built for the 2008 Summer Olympics, the National Stadium is the world’s largest steel structure.

  798 ARTS AREA—If you want to see the capital at its most cutting-edge, head northeast to the Dashanzi Art District. Originally the vast Communist-era compound of the 798 Electronics Factory (built in the 1950s in the Bauhaus style), it has slowly been taken over by artists and now thrives as an edgy enclave of exhibit spaces, galleries, studios, design companies, and video screening rooms. Exhibitions change all the time, and activities include everything from fashion shows to of-the-moment product launches. Dozens of nightclubs and bars have sprung up in the surrounding streets, lending the area a new moniker: the Soho of Beijing. INFO: Tel 86/10-6438-4862; www.798space.com.

  WHERE TO STAY

  AMAN AT SUMMER PALACE—As a guest of the wonderful Aman at Summer Palace, you’ll gain access to the imperial complex (see p. 481) through a secret door. Set within painstakingly restored Qing and Ming dynasty pavilions and a maze of courtyards, the 51 rooms are simple, elegant, and redolent of the past. Naoki, famed chef Okumara’s French-influenced Japanese kaiseki restaurant, is just one of four excellent eateries. The hotel can arrange master demonstrations in Chinese arts like calligraphy and jianzhi (Chinese paper cutting) and private visits to artists’ studios or the Chinese Dance Academy. Or just put your feet up in the hotel’s small, leather-chaired theater for a private showing of The Last Emperor. INFO: Tel 86/10-5987-9999; in the U.S., 800-477-9180; www.amanresorts.com. Cost: from $550 (off-peak), from $650 (peak); 10-course dinner at Naoki $150.

  HOTELG—Located in the buzzy Sanlitun neighborhood, Hotel G’s design was inspired by the retro-chic Hollywood era of the ’60s, then infused with a Chinese accent. All three levels of rooms (from “good” to “greatest”) are elegant, loft style, and understated, and all should please the fussy. The artwork, provided by artists of the 798 Dashanzi Art District, has an avant-garde edge. A fun choice for those looking for Beijing’s glam side. INFO: Tel 86/10-6552-3600; www.hotel-g.com. Cost: “good” rooms from $165, “greatest” from $255.

  THE OPPOSITE HOUSE—The theme is hip and minimalist at this 99-room hotel designed by prominent Japanese architect Kengo Kuma. Situated in the trendy nightlife area of Sanlitun, Zen-like rooms are light and luxe, with floor-to-ceiling windows and brushed-oak floors, and amenities include a walking tour through Beijing’s hutongs and a ground-floor art gallery showcasing contemporary Chinese works. Splurge on the hotel’s airport transfers—choose between a Maserati Quattroporte or an Audi Q7—then work out your jet lag with laps in the hotel’s 22-meter stainless-steel swimming pool. Its acclaimed restaurant, Bei, offers pan-Asian flavors in a sophisticated space. INFO: Tel 86/10-6417-6688; www.theoppositehouse.com. Cost: from $250; dinner at Bei $35.

  PARK HYATT BEIJING—Located in the prestigious Beijing Yintai Center, with its lobby on the 63rd floor, the Park Hyatt Beijing overlooks the CCTV towers, the World Trade Center, and the Forbidden City—an incredible vista when illuminated at night. The China Grill, on the 66th floor (and a fitness center on the 60th featuring sunlit pools), is equipped with similarly inspiring panoramas—enjoy the unique 360-degree view from the floor-to-ceiling windows. Guest rooms are the size of small apartments, with glass-walled bathrooms, light-wood fittings, and subtle lighting. INFO: Tel 86/10-8567-1234; in the U.S., 800-633-7313; www.beijing.park.hyatt.com. Cost: from $250; dinner at China Grill $90.

  RED CAPITAL RESIDENCE—It’s back to the future at this unique boutique hotel—a retro shrine to Maoist chic inside an old hutong residence. Staff in Red Guard uniforms man the red-lacquer front doors, helping to capture the essence of long-vanished revolutionary optimism with unabashed Communist kitsch and Mao memorabilia (you can even take a tour of Beijing in Madame Mao’s limousine). There are only five rooms centered around a tiny courtyard, each named for such revolutionary writers as Han Suyin and Edgar Snow, all with a contemporary and well-run polish. INFO: Tel 86/10-8403-5308; www.redcapitalclub.com.cn. Cost: from $135.

  SOFITEL WANDA BEIJING—To get an idea of how far the modern Chinese miracle has come, stay at one of the most recently arrived hotels. The Tang Dynasty meets contempo
rary France in the Sofitel Wanda’s stunning lobby, and its suave guest rooms have luxurious bathrooms and the latest in high-tech amenities. And in Le Pré Lenôtre restaurant, enjoy the city’s best French cuisine in surroundings that rival a room in Versailles. The hotel’s M Bar, with retro velvet couches and glistening crystal curtains, is perhaps the city’s best upscale watering hole. INFO: Tel 86/10-8599-6666; www.sofitel.com. Cost: from $160; 7-course tasting dinner at Le Pré Lenôtre $135.

  EATING & DRINKING

  BLU LOBSTER—Beijing’s international offerings have improved in recent years, and Blu Lobster’s Irish-born Brian McKenna is one of the chefs leading the way. One of the city’s more inventive tasting menus showcases his acclaimed mastery of molecular gastronomy while uniting flavors of Asia and Europe. The foie gras and lobster dishes (the lobster bisque is a signature) are a culinary adventure, but desserts—such as a dark-chocolate, coriander, and hazelnut tart—are also a favorite of the chef’s. The Shangri-La Hotel’s flagship restaurant has a chic, contemporary décor and a superb selection of Bordeaux wines. INFO: Tel 86/10-6841-2211; www.shangri-la.com. Cost: tasting menu $100.

  DA DONG KAOYA—Beijing’s preponderance of restaurants serving the local specialty of Peking duck can make the choice impossible. Of the handful of established institutions bandied about by those in the know, the new and stylish Da Dong is a winner, according to locals. After experiencing the dish elsewhere, you’ll appreciate Da Dong’s special method of reducing the amount of fat in their succulent birds while enhancing the taste. The foreigner-friendly menu (with photos) is long on nonduck options, but order half a bird and get a lesson in various cuts and condiments from the waitstaff. Even the delicate duck soup that comes with your meal is delectable. INFO: Tel 86/10-6582-2892. Cost: $25.