WHERE: 100 miles/161 km southwest of Cuzco. MANU EXPEDITIONS: Tel 51/84-225-990; www.manuexpeditions.com. Cost: 6-day trips $1,650, all-inclusive (shorter expeditions available), air extra. WHEN: Apr–Dec, when there is less rain.
Age-Old Mysteries Etched into the Desert Floor
THE NAZCA LINES
Nazca, Peru
Peru’s desert coast is the setting for the mysterious, ancient Nazca lines, a vast series of furrows in the earth that depict stylized human and animal forms as well as geometric shapes. The full impact of their 193-square-mile expanse sets in only when they are seen from the air, which is how they were discovered in the 1920s. Faithful to the motifs of the Nazca culture, some of these simple, perfect triangles, trapezoids, and crisscrossing lines run for miles across the desert. There’s also a 540-foot-long lizard, a 360-foot-long monkey with a tightly curled tail, and a condor with a 440-foot wingspan. The geoglyphs are believed to have been “etched” by the removal of rocks and topsoil to reveal lighter soil underneath between 2,000 and 5,000 years ago.
So what, exactly, are they? Though every theory from extraterrestrial landing strip to astronomical calendars has been postulated, these extraordinary pre-Inca cultural artifacts remain veiled in mystery. But a visit to the Italian-run Museo Antonini may shed some light through its archaeological displays, trophy skulls, textiles, and artifacts that have been found in the area.
From 1946 until her death in 1998, the German-born mathematician Maria Reiche dedicated her life to researching the lines and the Nazca culture. The simple room in the village of Pascana, where she lived for much of that time, is now a tiny museum. Reiche spent most of her last decade as a guest in the Hotel Nazca Lines, about 5 miles from the site. Today, this Colonial hacienda’s 32 rooms are modest yet comfortable. It has a pleasant patio and welcoming pool, and the staff presents nightly lectures. For a more luxurious stay, there’s the newly reincarnated seaside Hotel Paracas, which has the excellent bonus of access to the amazing Ballestas Islands, promoted as Galápagos-in-miniature for their enormous populations of sea lions, pelicans, and penguins. The parent company’s private plane, which trumps local competitors for newness and comfort, offers flights over the Nazca lines.
Along with monkeys, living creatures depicted by the lines include hummingbirds, spiders, and whales.
WHERE: 280 miles/450 km south of Lima. HOW: U.S.-based Andean Treks offers trips to Nazca and throughout Peru. Tel 800-683-8148 or 617-924-1974; www.andeantreks.com. Cost: 3-day trip $675. Originates in Lima. MUSEO ANTONINI: Tel 51/56-523-444; www.digilander.libero.it/mdantonini. HOTEL NAZCA LINES: Tel 51/56-522-293; www.peru-hotels.com. Cost: from $100. HOTEL PARACAS: Tel 51/56-581-333; www.starwoodhotels.com. Cost: from $200. BEST TIME: Dec–Apr for warm, dry weather.
Mythical Birthplace of the Incas
LAKE TITICACA
Puno, Peru
Set in the Andes at 12,500 feet above sea level, legendary Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world and, at 3,200 square miles, it is the continent’s largest. Ancient myth holds that Manco Cápac and his sister-consort, Mama Ocllo, emerged from these magical Andean waters, known for their luminescence and calm, to found Cuzco and the Inca Empire. The Uros Indians first created the lake’s 50-odd floating islands and their boats of totora reeds as early as the 15th century to escape conflicts with the land-dwelling Inca. The two natural islands of Taquile and Amantani are peopled by Quechua-speaking Indians, whose brightly colored, handwoven textiles fill the markets in the islands’ main plazas. There are no cars here, no bicycles or roads.
The lakeside town of Puno, while not big on charm, is Peru’s capital of folklore. Its mythical founding is the reason for November’s fascinating Semana de Puno (Puno Week) festivities, with ornate and imaginative costumes, wild dancing, masks, and music that are rooted in Inca culture. But February 2 marks the beginning of the biggest event of the year, the festival of the Virgen de la Candelaria. It ostensibly figures on the Roman Catholic calendar, but witness the famous diablada (devil’s dance) and the kallahuaya (medicine man’s dance) before deeming the celebration strictly Christian. The flamboyant Trajes de Luces (Suits of Lights) dances are considered the festival’s main draw.
The gleaming white Hotel Libertador sits on its own island, connected by causeway to Puno. Most of its 120 comfortable and spacious rooms offer views of the lake, as does the hotel’s popular restaurant. Well off the beaten path, about 45 minutes by boat from Puno, the new, all-inclusive Hotel Titilaka looks stark and almost Scandinavian in design. Each of its 18 stylish lakeview suites is labeled Dusk or Dawn, depending on whether its windows open to the rising or the setting sun.
Peru shares the ancient lake with Bolivia; regular boat service links Puno to that country’s picturesque shoreside town of Copacabana (see p. 996). The Andean Explorer, one of the world’s highest railways, runs along the shore of Lake Titicaca, connecting the ancient Inca capital of Cuzco (see p. 1040) to Puno. Jointly overseen by the Orient Express and PeruRail, the 10-hour scenic journey carries passengers in luxurious 1920s Pullman cars, some with open-air observation cabins.
WHERE: 243 miles/389 km southeast of Cuzco. HOTEL LIBERTADOR: Tel 51/1-518-6500; in the U.S., 877-778-2281; www.libertador.com.pe. Cost: from $150. HOTEL TITILAKA: Tel 51/1-700-5100; in the U.S., 866-628-1777; www.titilaka.com. Cost: $530, inclusive. ANDEAN EXPLORER: Tel 51/1-612-6700; www.perurail.com. Cost: from $220 one-way from Cuzco to Puno or reverse; includes lunch. BEST TIMES: May–Nov for pleasant weather; early Feb for Festival de la Virgen de la Candelaria; 1st week in Nov for Puno Week.
A Little-Known Getaway
COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO
Uruguay
A tiny colonial outpost on the Río de la Plata surrounded by rolling gaucho country and vineyards and an easy ferry ride away from Buenos Aires (see p. 980), Colonia is the unappreciated gem of Uruguay—itself vastly underrated among South American countries. Founded by the Portuguese and fought over by the Spanish, Colonia is a beguiling collection of whitewashed buildings, tile-and-stucco homes, and historic landmarks such as Iglesia Matriz, Uruguay’s oldest church. The sycamore-shaded, cobblestoned Barrio Histórico, the town’s colonial core, is among the continent’s most carefully restored urban areas. Tiny museums, smart bars, and romantic, candlelit restaurants cluster around the ancient Plaza Mayor (visit the Sunday market here); more line Calle de los Suspiros, which leads to the old port.
While you can certainly see the most important sights in a day, an overnight stay allows you to steep in Colonia’s history. The charming 19th-century Posada Plaza Mayor’s flowering patio and simple Colonial-style guest rooms are matched only by its location, the best in town. Dine at nearby La Florida: Owned by a French Argentine and housed in a former brothel, this restaurant lets you choose between overlooking the water or eating in a pretty, secluded courtyard for full-on romance.
More than 270 wineries surround Colonia, offering a less crowded, quaint alternative to Argentina’s wine scene (see Mendoza, p. 988). Locally produced Tannat, known for its soft tannins and fruity essence, is the national wine. The perfect place to sample it, as well as Albariño and other varietals, is at the family-owned Bodega Bouza, on the road from Colonia to the capital city of Montevideo. Guests can dine in rustic splendor after touring the vineyards.
Just an hour away from Colonia, on the Río de la Plata, is Uruguay’s most award-winning hotel, the Four Seasons Carmelo. Secluded in a pine and eucalyptus forest, it mixes Asian and regional elements in its enormous private bungalows, outdoor patios, and expansive Zen-like spa. Spend time on the 18-hole golf course and then lose yourself in the gardens on an afternoon stroll. The nearby town of Carmelo delights with a century-old serenity and charm.
WHERE: 113 miles/182 km west of Montevideo. POSADA PLAZA MAYOR: Tel 598/522-3193; www.posadaplazamayor.com. Cost: from $110. LA FLORIDA: Tel 598/94-293036. Cost: dinner $40. BODEGA BOUZA: Tel 598/2-323-7491; www.bodegabouza.com. Cost: lunch $50. FOUR SEASONS CARMELO: Tel 598/542-9000
; www.fourseasons.com. Cost: from $275. BEST TIMES: Mar–Apr for fall weather, foliage, and grape harvest; Sep–Nov for spring weather.
Like Bohemian Summer Camp with Celebrities and Soccer Stars
JOSÉ IGNACIO
Uruguay
A 40-minute drive east of Punta del Este (see next page) but a world away from its high-rise development is the small peninsula of José Ignacio and the stylish Playa Brava beach. A former fishing village set around a rocky promontory, its most prominent landmark is Faro José Ignacio, a century-old lighthouse where surfers catch waves at sunset. The area draws a boho-chic crowd that gathers for house parties, dines in restaurants tucked into beachside pine groves, and feasts on the day’s catch, sipping wines from nearby vineyards. The vibe in this laid-back, off-the-radar getaway is like summer camp with celebrities, soccer stars, and their supermodel friends.
La Posada del Faro sits on a hilltop perch, overlooking José Ignacio Bay. Many of the whitewashed rooms have ocean views and balconies, while the pool is a favorite spot for people-watching. Afternoons, everyone gathers at Parador La Huella, on Playa Brava. The informal gourmet spot, with tables on a deck that opens onto the sandy beach, offers fresh fish and local wines. Or brave the sandy road winding through the pines to find Namm, where just-caught seafood and grilled beef are prepared with an Asian flair. It’s so well hidden that many call it “the tree house,” but it’s well worth the quest.
A working cattle ranch with an ocean view is no oxymoron at Estancia Vik, offering the ultimate in privacy and luxury on Laguna José Ignacio. Surrounded by 4,000 acres of rolling plains, its 12 rooms range from simple quarters to cutting-edge suites, each uniquely designed with artwork by Uruguayan and international artists. Lounge by the granite pool or ride horses down to the estancia’s new sister property, Playa Vik, at the beach. The dusty town of Garzón took on a new sophistication when celebrity chef Francis Mallmann transformed the old general store into an inn and candlelit restaurant, where magic happens every night. He splits his time between the dining room here and 1884, his restaurant in Argentine wine country (see p. 989).
WHERE: 25 miles/35 km north of Punta del Este. POSADA DEL FARO: Tel 598/4-862-110; www.posadadelfaro.com. Cost: from $250 (off-peak), $375 (peak). PARADOR LA HUELLA: Tel 598/4-862-279; www.paradorlahuella.com. Cost: lunch $30. NAMM: Tel 598/4-862-526. Cost: dinner $40. ESTANCIA VIK: Tel 598/94-605-212; www.estanciavik.com. Cost: from $490 (off-peak), $1,000 (peak), all-inclusive. GARZON INN: Tel 598/4-102-811; www.restaurantegarzon.com. Cost: from $820, inclusive; dinner $75. BEST TIMES: Nov–mid-Dec and Feb–Apr for warm weather and fewest crowds.
South America’s St-Tropez
PUNTA DEL ESTE
Uruguay
Straddling a peninsula flanked by the Atlantic Ocean and the Río de la Plata, “Punta,” as South Americans call it, has reigned for decades as the continent’s premiere jet-set mecca. A former fishing village now full of high-rise hotels and condominiums, it has lost some of its exclusive air. Yet it still has a whiff of St-Tropez about it with its long stretches of white sandy beaches, elegant designer boutiques, and chic nightclubs. To escape the crowded central beaches and towering con-dos, try neighboring Punta Ballena and Barra de Maldonado (simply known as La Barra) or a day trip to Isla Gorriti or Isla de Lobos to glimpse sea lions instead of beautiful people.
Where to eat is the day’s pressing decision. Of the plethora of possibilities, La Bourgogne, overseen by Jean-Paul Bondoux, is a favorite. This casual Provençal outpost, with an outdoor garden patio, is the sister to the more formal version in Buenos Aires’s grand Alvear Palace Hotel (see p. 981). Simple, French-inspired cuisine emphasizes local ingredients—many from the chef’s own farm—and a wildly popular bakery features French bread and pastries.
One of the most surreal hotels in South America is Casa Pueblo in Punta Ballena, a cliff-top Gaudiesque structure built over a period of 36 years by the Uruguayan sculptor and painter Carlos Páez Vilaró. Rooms are small and simple but all have magnificent views of the sunset over the Río de la Plata and the Atlantic waters famous for migrating whales (ballenas in Spanish) that give this area its name. For a glamorous beach holiday, the sophisticated Mantra Resort is the grande dame of Punta. Situated right on the coast, in the relatively less congested La Barra area, it features a spa, a lively pool scene, a casino, and its own cinema.
Join local families and knowing Argentines who show up at L’Auberge for late-afternoon tea and the legendary Belgian waffles drizzled with warm dulce de leche. Think about unpacking your bag here: The redbrick, Tudor-style mansion in a secluded residential neighborhood enchants with 36 cozy rooms, a popular barbecue lunch pavilion, and a pool surrounded by immaculate grounds. All make you feel a world away from Punta’s beach scene.
Mediterranean influences are visible in the façade of Casa Pueblo, designed by a local sculptor and artist.
WHERE: 60 miles/96 km east of Montevideo. LA BOURGOGNE: Tel 598/42-482-007; www.labourgogne.com.uy. Cost: dinner $75. CASA PUEBLO: Tel 598/42-578-041; www.clubhotelcasapueblo.com. Cost: from $150 (off-peak), from $290 (peak). MANTRA RESORT: Tel 598/42-776-100; www.mantraresort.com. Cost: from $250 (off-peak), from $1,100 (peak). L’AUBERGE: 598-42-488-888; www.laubergehotel.com. Cost: from $125 (off-peak), from $300 (peak). BEST TIMES: Nov–Apr for summer weather; mid-Dec–Jan for peak season.
Earth’s Highest Waterfalls Deep in the Lost World
ANGEL FALLS
Puerto Ordaz, Gran Sabana, Venezuela
American bush pilot Jimmie Angel was searching for gold when he “discovered” these wondrous falls—the highest in the world—in 1935. Plunging from 3,212 feet, and with an uninterrupted drop of more than 2,600 feet, the thundering water nearly dissolves into mist by the time it hits bottom. The falls are a staggering 19 times taller than Niagara Falls (see p. 929) and more than twice as tall as the Empire State Building.
The setting is impressive as well. Angel Falls—in Spanish called Salto Ángel and known locally by the native name Kerepakupai-meru—spring from the summit of the sheer-sided Auyantepuy (Devil’s Mountains), formed by the confluence of tributaries from three of South America’s greatest rivers, the Amazon, Essequibo, and Orinoco. La Gran Sabana (the Great Savanna), a grassy plateau in Venezuela’s remote southeastern Bolívar state and the main jumping-off point for a visit to the falls, is dotted with more than 100 massive sandstone mesas or tepuys (from a Pemón Indian word meaning “mountain”). Formed more than 130 million years ago, they are some of the oldest and—with heights reaching 9,000 feet—most impressive rock formations on earth. They cover roughly 65 percent of Canaima National Park, the sixth largest national park in the world. The highest of the formations and easiest to hike, Mount Roraima, served as the setting for Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s The Lost World, his 1912 classic about dinosaurs and pterodactyls that would eventually inspire Michael Crichton’s bestselling novel Jurassic Park. In this primeval land of unimaginably lush forests live giant anteaters, three-toed sloths, tapirs, and the elusive jaguar. The official tally of bird species stands at 550.
Overlooking a lagoon and ringed by soft sandy beaches, the Pemón Indian village of Canaima is the gateway to La Gran Sabana and about 30 miles from the falls. Dutch adventurer and trailblazer Rudy Truffino, aka Jungle Rudy, established a 15-room nature lodge here in 1956 and called it Campamento Ucaima. Rudy is long gone, and his daughters now run the lodge, helped by a loyal staff, as well as a satellite camp at the base of the falls. They can arrange flyover tours when clouds obscure the tops of the falls from lower vantages.
Clouds frequently deter hopeful falls viewers aboard sightseeing planes, so an in-person excursion at its base is the best bet.
WHERE: 450 miles/725 km southeast of Caracas. CAMPAMENTO UCAIMA (JUNGLE RUDY): Tel 58/289-808-9251; www.junglerudy.com. Cost: 2-day stay per person $360 (off-peak), 3 days $940 (peak), all-inclusive. BEST TIME: Jun–Jan is the unofficial season when the falls are voluminous, although frequently covered by clouds.
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p; The Caribbean’s Oldest and Largest Marine Park
ISLAS LOS ROQUES
Venezuela
Venezuela’s offshore islands are so little known that few but Venezuelans talk about them—and they rave. Islas los Roques form a remarkable archipelago of 40 largish coral islands (only three are inhabited—sparsely) and more than 250 islets and cays, all surrounded by healthy reefs that promise snorkeling and diving in conditions that haven’t existed elsewhere in the Caribbean for decades: over 280 species of fish, schools of fish numbering in the thousands, massive forests of soft coral, long stretches of virgin hard coral, perpendicular drop-offs, caverns, and pinnacles. At 850 square miles, Los Roques Archipelago National Park, created in 1972, is the Caribbean’s oldest and largest marine national park. Nondivers will find talcum-soft beaches with no trace of a footprint and 92 bird species, including the largest concentration of scarlet ibises on earth, along with red-footed boobies and pink flamingos.
There’s a small airport on the ambitiously named Gran Roque (Big Rock), a traffic-free island with about a thousand residents and a main fishing village all of three blocks long. A few dozen simple, Venezuelan-owned island posadas (guesthouses) are done up in tropical tones, mixing with the more stylish ones owned by the large number of Italians living on the island. Among them is the intimate, whitewashed Posada Movida, with only six rooms and a boat that can whisk you to some of the archipelago’s remotest islands for sunbathing and snorkeling. Return to the posada for some of the best cuisine on the island. Los Roques is also the ideal spot for kite boarding and sea kayaking, and is one of the best places in the world for fly-fishing (bonefish and tarpon are abundant). Posadas can arrange boat trips into the coral-strewn inlets, where the prized fish congregate in crystal-clear waters.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 165
