On Los Roques, flamingos enjoy an unspoiled, protected habitat.
WHERE: Gran Roque is 125 miles/201 km north of Caracas. POSADA MOVIDA: Tel 58/237-221-1016; www.posadamovida.com. Cost: $260 (off-peak), $320 (peak), all-inclusive. BEST TIME: Apr–Dec for nicest weather.
The Serengeti of South America
LOS LLANOS
Venezuela
The grassland region of Los Llanos, “the Plains,” covers more than 115,000 square miles, nearly one-third of Venezuela, stretching from the foothills of the Andes through the lowlands of the Orinoco Delta and into neighboring northeast Colombia. This spectacularly diverse area is one of the top spots on the planet for bird-watching: home to nearly 475 species, including seven species of ibis, the Orinoco goose, 20 species of heron, and endangered jabiru storks that grow up to 5 feet tall. More than 148 mammal species make this their habitat too, perhaps most notably the capybara, the world’s largest rodent, weighing in at up to 175 pounds, while dolphins, crocodiles, and piranhas swim in the Orinoco and Apure rivers. Los Llanos has only two seasons. In the extreme wet season, running from May to October, the plains flood, making travel difficult and spotting the capybara and other mammals easier. The dry season, from November to March, leads to improved roads while forcing birds and animals to congregate around sparse water sources.
Cowboys in Venezuela are called llaneros, or “plainsmen,” and their culture dates from the mid-1500s and the Spanish settlement. Many large ranches, or hatos, have taken up the torch of ecotourism and are now open to the public, with naturalist guides who explain the agricultural way of life and lead tours of the nearby nature reserves. One of the best is Hato Cedral, in the lowlands of Los Llanos. These sprawling grounds are home to 390 species of birds (best seen in the dry season, when massive flocks are common) and an astonishing variety of wildlife. The anaconda is commonly spotted here in the dry season; the jaguar and ocelot are only rarely seen.
WHERE: The access point of Barinas is 250 miles/402 km southwest of Caracas. HATO CEDRAL: Tel 58/416-502-2757; www.elcedral.com. Cost: from $175, all-inclusive. HOW: Lost World Adventures offers an 8-day Andes and Los Llanos tour. Tel 58/212-577-0303; in the U.S., 800-999-0558; www.lostworldadventures.com. Cost: $1,827, all-inclusive; with domestic air. Originates in Caracas. BEST TIME: Nov–Mar for dry season, when birding is good and roads are best.
Terra Australis Incognita
THE WHITE CONTINENT
Antarctica
Antarctica—Terra Australis Incognita,“the unknown land of the south”—is the surreal seventh continent at the bottom of the world, a place of ethereal beauty and unequivocal grandeur that inspired the great explorers of old and captures the hearts of adventurers today. The limitless landscape of ice, sea, and sky comes in a million shades of blue, and jagged, snowy mountain peaks and glistening glaciers dwarf anything ever made by man. It is the ultimate, end-of-the-earth expedition, the world’s most inaccessible continent.
The nearly total absence of humans means you might be the first to leave footprints in a centuries-old snowbank, while the peaceable wildlife welcomes you into its habitat with childlike curiosity. Orca, humpback, fin, and right whales—even the giant blue whale—are known to swim right up to passing ships, while Weddell and leopard seals may stare at you from their lazy perch on floating icebergs.
But it’s the penguins that draw so many travelers; to stand inside a wild, thriving rookery of tuxedoed Adélies or much larger, iconic emperors, is a once-in-a-lifetime experience: You will be outnumbered by 10,000 to one.
Trips to the warmer, animal-rich Antarctic Peninsula are the most popular; they sometimes include ports of call in the Falklands and South Georgia Island (see p. 995 and next page). Zodiac launches allow for quick landings on remote islands, including Deception Island, a collapsed but still active caldera where visitors take a dip in Pendulum Cove’s volcano-heated water so they can tell the folks back home that they went swimming in the Antarctic. Despite the chill, nature’s never-ending show keeps you out on deck, mesmerized by this year-round winter wonderland. If you travel during December and January, the sun shines for nearly 24 hours.
Sign up for a tour that offers a high number of shore landings to optimize wildlife encounters and choose a line whose ships have reinforced hulls to break through the ice. A veteran crew that includes geologists, zoologists, polar explorers, historians, ecologists, and oceanographers will help make the incredible real.
Icebergs form when glacier pieces break off into the ocean; Antarctica boasts among the world’s largest.
WHERE: Hobart, Tasmania (Australia), and Ushuaia, Argentina, are the most common points of embarkation. HOW: U.S.-based Abercrombie & Kent offers 14-day expeditions. Tel 800-554-7016 or 630-725-3400; www.abercrombiekent.com. Cost: from $10,465, all-inclusive. Originates in Buenos Aires. When: Dec and Jan. BEST TIMES: Nov–Feb (austral summer), when temperatures average a balmy 28°F; late Nov–Dec for nesting penguins; Jan–Feb for baby fur seals and baby penguins.
South Atlantic Bird Paradise
SOUTH GEORGIA ISLAND
South Georgia and the Sandwich Islands (British Overseas Territory)
Windswept and largely unknown, the utterly isolated isle of South Georgia stands days away from any civilized shore, a white crest of carved ice rising from the cold subantarctic waters that surround the South Atlantic mountains nearly 1,300 miles east of Tierra del Fuego and 800 miles southeast of the Falkland Islands (see pp. 994 and 995). Deemed unlivable by Captain James Cook, the first explorer to land on the island, in 1775, and still virtually uninhabited, the 100-mile-long island nevertheless delights intrepid visitors with impossibly high sea cliffs, dazzling fjords, and snowy alpine peaks sloping down to wave-whipped beaches of fine-grained salt-and-pepper sand.
These seemingly desolate shorelines harbor one of the world’s largest and most important penguin colonies: More than a half million breeding pairs of king penguins, the second largest penguin in the world, serve as the island’s biggest draw. Arriving at the glacial valley of the Salisbury Plain, you instantly find yourself surrounded by at least 100,000 of them, all braying in chorus and waddling to and from the sea.
Bird-watchers find heaven in the 81 other rare and wonderful species too, including the million-plus macaroni penguins, with their distinctive yellow crest, and petrels of all kinds. Albatross Island and Prion Island provide a close-up view of the regal wandering albatross, whose 12-foot wingspan is the largest of any bird on earth.
Expedition cruises typically sail the length of the narrow, steep-walled Drygalski fjord, then follow the island’s calmer northern coast, where protected bays allow for smooth Zodiac landings and easy access to the wildlife. In summer, some 3 million fur seals breed on the shores of South Georgia, giving birth to playful pups. Enormous elephant seals loll in muddy pools, whales dominate the surrounding ocean, and up in the hills you can glimpse members of the world’s southernmost reindeer herd, introduced by 19th-century Norwegian whalers who longed for a taste of home.
Vestiges of the area’s whaling days remain at the “capital” of Grytviken, home to a cozy museum and fewer than 20 souls, mostly research scientists and the British government officers who manage this crown colony. A prim wooden church built in 1913 is open so that visitors can climb the belfry and ring the dolorous iron bell. Nearby lies the grave of legendary explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton, who perished here on his final voyage to Antarctica (see previous page). His wife back in England insisted the hero’s body remain in South Georgia. Today, hikers can follow in his footsteps by crossing the high pass between Fortuna Bay to Stromness—the final leg of his daring rescue from the doomed Endurance.
WHERE: Expedition ships typically depart from Ushuaia, Argentina. HOW: U.S.-based Lindblad Expeditions offers a 24-day expedition that also includes the Falklands. Tel 800-397-3348 or 212-765-7740; www.expeditions.com. Cost: from $13,780, all-inclusive. Originates in Buenos Aires. WHEN: Oct. BEST TIMES: Nov–Mar (austral summer) when temperatures
hover around 40°F; late Nov for penguins nesting with eggs; Dec for hatching baby penguins; Jan–Mar for baby fur seals and fledgling penguins.
THE CARIBBEAN, THE BAHAMAS, AND BERMUDA
33 Spectacular Beaches
ANGUILLA
Lesser Antilles
Anguilla is a flat, scrubby island that’s light on interior scenery, but take a look at its confectionery 12-mile perimeter: These are some of the most picture-perfect white-sand beaches and crystal-clear waters you’ll find anywhere. Some of the finest of its 33 beaches are anchored by special hotels with celebrated in-house restaurants, making the island an unrivaled choice for an indulgent stay-put vacation. Venture beyond your hotel grounds and you’ll find friendly towns undisturbed by cruise ships, casinos, or strip malls.
Sensual, romantic Cap Juluca was an early arrival on the island, attracting Hollywood moguls and financiers with whitewashed Moorish turrets, arches, and domes on Maunday’s Beach, a magical, mile-long crescent of sugary white sand that all 98 luxurious suites overlook. It manages Anguilla’s first and only golf course, an 18-hole links-style creation by Greg Norman. The only place guests wear anything more elaborate than a swimsuit and a suntan is in its Pimm’s Restaurant, whose menu features Eurobbean cuisine—think Anguillan lobster bisque drizzled with spiced Cognac or green peppercorn-marinated swordfish.
Just a few beaches east on Rendezvous Bay, CuisinArt Resort & Spa is another whitewashed Mediterranean vision on a long stretch of perfect beach. Lie back in a beach chair and enjoy the dreamy views of the volcanic slopes of St. Martin. Dinner at Santorini, the resort’s restaurant, is a major draw; its famous grilled tuna and johnnycakes are served with herbs and vegetables grown on the hotel’s hydroponic farm. The two-story Venus Spa is one of the largest in the Caribbean.
Stroll down the shoreline to the Dune Preserve, a fantastical beach bar owned by local reggae legend Bankie Banx, who sometimes performs, especially during the full-moon parties and March’s music festival, Moonsplash.
On the island’s northern side, the bluff-top Malliouhana Hotel & Spa on Meads Bay was the first luxury hotel on Anguilla when it opened in 1984, and it wears its age beautifully. It offers hands-on involvement by the gracious British owners and staff and a highly regarded spa. Nonguests are welcome to dine at the island’s most refined restaurant, which offers classic French dishes with an island accent, as well as one of the most extensive wine lists in the Caribbean. A boutique alternative is the Mediterranean-style Anacaona Hotel, just paces from Meads Beach. Save an evening for nearby Blanchard’s, a trailblazer in Anguilla’s impressive food scene where choices like chunky lobster cakes and warm lemon-buttermilk pound cake with homemade ice cream explain its popularity.
Shoal Bay might be the beauty pageant winner of Anguilla’s can’t-go-wrong beaches, a 2-mile strip on the northeast coast known for food shacks such as Uncle Ernie’s, famous for grilled chicken, ribs, and special cole slaw, and Gwen’s, another rib specialist, with hammocks in a shady palm grove and a reggae colada–fueled Sunday afternoon jump-up. Or play castaway on Gorgeous Scilly Cay, a popular beach-shack restaurant on its own coral-sand islet. The alfresco feast of simple grilled Anguilla lobster marinated in a curry-based sauce is legendary, so reserve ahead.
Anguilla’s 12 miles of coastline are home to some of the world’s most beautiful beaches.
VISITOR INFO: www.anguilla-vacation.com. CAP JULUCA: Tel 888-858-5822 or 264-497-6666; www.capjuluca.com. Cost: from $495 (off-peak), from $995 (peak); dinner $75. When: closed Sep–Oct. CUISINART RESORT: Tel 800-943-3210 or 264-498-2000; www.cuisinartresort.com. Cost: from $440 (off-peak), from $815 (peak); dinner $75. When: closed Sep–Oct. MALLIOUHANA HOTEL: Tel 800-835-0796 or 264-497-6111; www.malliouhana.com. Cost: from $430 (off-peak), from $860 (peak); dinner $80. When: closed Sep–Oct. ANACAONA HOTEL: Tel 877-647-4736 or 264-497-6827; www.anacaonahotel.com. Cost: from $150 (off-peak), from $300 (peak). BLANCHARD’S: Tel 264-497-6100; www.blanchardsrestaurant.com. Cost: $60. GORGEOUS SCILLY CAY: Tel 264-497-5123; www.scillycayanguilla.com. Cost: lobster lunch $75. BEST TIMES: Nov–Apr for finest weather; Mar for Moonsplash; May for Anguilla Regatta; Nov for Tranquility Jazz Festival.
A Nautical Kentucky Derby and Stellar Beaches
ANTIGUA
Lesser Antilles
In 1784, a young Horatio Nelson arrived in Antigua, the premier Caribbean naval base for the British fleet during the Napoleonic Wars. He’d still recognize the restored dockyard, now a national park bearing his name and one of a few British Georgian–style naval dockyards left in the world. Antigua remains one of the most British of the Caribbean isles and reveres its rapport with the sea. Every April some 200 boats from 25 countries descend on this otherwise quiet outpost for Antigua Sailing Week, one of the top regattas in the world.
The Admiral’s Inn, a Georgian brick building dating back to 1788, is the unofficial headquarters for the Sailing Week hubbub and the architectural centerpiece of the Dockyard. Known as the Ads, it’s the island’s most interesting historic hotel, with 13 rooms and the ambience of an old ship. The well-tanned yachting crowd comes here to cool off in the shady terrace bar/restaurant, their carefully tended pleasure craft and racing yachts bobbing nearby. For a quiet retreat from the sailing scene, a loyal clientele repairs to the time-honored Curtain Bluff resort, flanked by two perfect beaches in one of the prettiest spots in Antigua. Guests are lulled to sleep at night by the pounding surf on the windward side, while the lagoon-smooth leeward beach serves as the launching place for the hotel’s host of water activities. Tennis buffs come to participate in the prestigious Antigua Tennis Week held here every May.
The newest and chicest hotel on Antigua, Carlisle Bay, swept the island scene into the 21st century: Its sleek and soothing suites overlook a lovely crescent of white and golden sand backed by rolling hills, with not a neighboring hotel in sight. Guests rarely leave the grounds, with everything you could want available—kids club, water sports, spa, yoga pavilion, tennis, fabulous food—and all offered with restrained good taste.
The largest of the Leeward Islands, Antigua is rightly known for its abundant beaches (365 of them)—and the snorkeling that goes with them. The most popular are Dickenson Bay in the northwest, a wide strip of powder-fine sand with blissfully calm turquoise waters, and Half-Moon Bay, which stretches for a sandy mile on the eastern coast. The most fashionable, however, and only five minutes from the Dockyard, is Pigeon Point.
Wherever you are (the island is only 14 miles long and 11 miles wide), it’s never very far to Shirley Heights, the highest point in Antigua (where the remains of General Shirley’s 17th-century fort still stand), for a sunset party on Sunday nights.
Antigua’s sister island to the north, flat and rocky Barbuda, is a bird-watcher’s paradise, best known for a rookery of frigate birds some 5,000 strong, outnumbering the local human population threefold. With seemingly endless stretches of white and pink sand beaches, Barbuda can bring tears to the eyes of beach aficionados.
A traditional English telephone booth sits on Dickenson Bay.
VISITOR INFO: www.antigua-barbuda.com. NELSON’S DOCKYARD: Tel 268-460-1379; www.antiguamuseums.org/nelsonsdockyard.htm. ADMIRAL’S INN: Tel 268-460-1027; www.admiralsantigua.com. Cost: from $105 (off-peak), from $170 (peak). When: closed late Aug–Oct 20. CURTAIN BLUFF: Tel 888-289-9898 or 268-462-8400; www.curtainbluff.com. Cost: from $715 (off-peak), from $1,100 (peak), all-inclusive. When: closed Aug–late Oct. CARLISLE BAY: Tel 866-502-2855 or 268-484-0002; www.carlisle-bay.com. Cost: from $425 (off-peak), from $920 (peak). When: closed early Sep–mid-Oct. BEST TIMES: Nov–Apr for good weather; Apr for Classic Yacht Regatta and Sailing Week; Aug for Summer Carnival; Dec for Yacht Show.
A Mini-Archipelago Lures Boaters, Diners, and Anglers
SAILING THE ABACOS
The Abacos, The Bahamas
Among the most affluent of the Out Islands, the Abacos are known as “the sailing capital of the world.” Although that’s a title it might share with
the British Virgin Islands and the Grenadines (see pp. 1071 and 1106), the Abacos promise a fine collection of 25 cays off the eastern coast of the long, thin, boomerang-shaped Great Abaco Island. Some are uninhabited, while others are home to small resorts and inviting towns that date to the American Revolution, when Loyalists from the Carolinas resettled here. Sail from one cay to the next, dropping anchor for snorkeling, swimming, excellent fishing, diving, or island exploration. With the exception of Eleuthera’s Harbour Island (see p. 1062), you’ll find more 18th-century charm here than anywhere else in the Bahamas.
The prime launch pad is Great Abaco’s Marsh Harbour, an easy harbor to enter and equipped with several full-service marinas—this is the place to rent a boat, with or without a crew. Before setting off, stop by the Jib Room for conch burgers and their signature Bilge Burner drink. The popular harbor-view spot really jumps with music and dancing on the two nights it serves dinner—barbecued baby-back pork ribs on Wednesdays, and juicy New York strip steaks on Saturdays.
There are beautiful beaches and harbors aplenty, but some are not to be missed. Elbow Cay is best known for its 120-foot-tall, peppermint-striped lighthouse built in 1838 in the charming village of Hope Town.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 166
