Lonely Planet Laos

by Lonely Planet

  Sadly, Souvannakhomkham's access roads are infuriatingly rutted, dusty when dry and appalling muddy when wet. Get here by heading 8km southwest from Tonpheung, turn right when you spot the '900' on an otherwise all-Lao script sign, then fork left just before arriving at the 7.2m-high seated brick Buddha, a very eroded figure that's the site's best-known icon.

  Golden Triangle

  Around 5km north of Tonpheung, small Rte 3 abruptly undergoes an astonishing transformation. Suddenly you're gliding along a two-coloured paved avenue, lined with palm trees and immaculately swept by teams of cleaners. Golden domes and pseudo-classical charioteers rear beside you. No, you haven't ingested a happy pizza. This is the Golden Triangle's very own Laos Vegas, a casino and entertainment project still a work in progress, but planned to eventually cover almost 100 sq km. After 2.5km this surreal strip turns left and dead-ends after 600m at the Mekong beside another Disneyesque fantasy dome and a mini Big Ben. The huge casino here is open to all, but most of the games are aimed at Chinese or Thai gamblers and may not be familiar. Electronic roulette tables are the most accessible of the games on offer.

  This area of riverfront is part of the famous Golden Triangle, where Thailand and Laos face off, with Myanmar sticking a long-nosed sand bank between the two. Boat cruises potter past from the Thai side. On the Lao bank speedboats await but foreigners can't cross the border without prearranged authorisation.

  Pak Beng ປາກແບ່ງ

  Pop 20,000 / %084

  The best time to enjoy Pak Beng (ປາກແບ່ງ) is late afternoon from on high at one of the restaurant balconies clinging to its vertiginous slope, watching the Mekong slide indolently by in a churn of gingery eddies, dramatically framed by giant boulders and sharp jungle banks.

  A halfway riverine stop between Luang Prabang and Huay Xai (lunch for speedy longtails, overnight for slowboats), this one-street town is short on architectural charm, but there are some good places to stay and nice spots to eat, including bakeries and Western-friendly cafes.

  Pak Beng

  1Sights

  1Wat Sin Jong JaengF2

  4Sleeping

  2D.P GuesthouseD1

  3Luang Say LodgeA2

  4Mekong Riverside LodgeC2

  5Monsavan GuesthouseD1

  6Sanctuary Pakbeng LodgeB2

  7Villa SantisoukC2

  5Eating

  D.P BakeryD1

  8HashanD1

  9KhopchaideuC2

  1Sights & Activities

  The tourist office offers treks to a Hmong village (400,000K per person for a group of four) or cooking classes (100,000K per person for a group of four), and can suggest a typical selection of local caves and waterfalls in the district to explore if you can find a motorbike for rent (try asking at your guesthouse; individuals around the market ask a steep 40,000K per hour).

  A pleasant excursion is to cross the river by motor canoe ( GOOGLE MAP ; 5000K) then walk for about 10 minutes diagonally right away from the river to a tiny, authentic Hmong hamlet.

  Wat Sin Jong JaengBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດສິນຈົງແຈ້ງ MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  Overlooking the Mekong, archaic little Wat Sin Jong Jaeng dates back to the early colonial period. Although its eaves have been entirely repainted, an old, very faded mural remains on theeastern exterior of the sǐm. Look carefully and you'll spot a moustached figure with hat, umbrella and big nose, presumably representing an early European visitor.

  ELEPHANT CONSERVATION CENTER

  Set on the shores of the stunning Nam Tien lake, the Elephant Conservation Center (ECC; %020-23025210; www.elephantconservationcenter.com; 1-day visit US$60, 3-day experience US$205, 6-day eco-experience US$495) has placed Sainyabuli firmly on the visitor map. Established in partnership with elephant NGO ElefantAsia (www.elefantasia.org), the centre offers visitors a unique insight into the lives of these majestic creatures in a natural setting. Life as an elephant in Laos – be it one of the remaining 400-odd left in the wild, forever on the run from ivory poachers, or one of the 450 captive elephants working in logging or elephant tourism – is not much fun. It's hard to say which is worse, giving 20 rides a day overladen with people on your back (the spine of an elephant is jagged and unsuitable to carry loads on anywhere but its neck) or trying to extract trees on dangerously steep mountain slopes. For every 10 elephants born in Laos, only two survive.

  Given these depressing statistics the work of the ECC is evermore vital, paying mahouts the equivalent of three years' salary to come and live at the centre and give their females the chance to breed, and care for their baby – something the average elephant owner could not even consider as their workhorses must be constantly earning to pay for their care (US$250 per week to feed). Aside from their conservation work here, vets are busy throughout Laos helping keep its domesticated elephants as well as possible. The complex includes a mahouts' training centre, an elephant hospital with qualified international vets, an information centre, a restaurant and some traditional bungalows and dormitory rooms for overnight guests.

  Arriving at the centre is a memorable experience in itself, as a small wooden boat glides through the green weeds that carpet the water. It's straight out of Apocalypse Now and as the boat approaches the centre, visitors may see some of the resident elephants enjoying their morning bath. A one-day visit includes a guided tour of the centre to learn more about the conservation work done here, including the on-site hospital, which works to safeguard the health of the resident elephants and some of the other 360 registered elephants working in Sainyabuli Province. Mobile teams head out for regular check-ups on the health of elephants around the province and beyond.

  On another part of the lake shore is the elephant nursery, where young elephants are safely reared in isolation from possible threats to their health. Witness the elephants enjoying a hearty breakfast and taking a bath in the lake.

  If time allows, it's rewarding to immerse yourself in the work of the centre with a three-day stay. This includes the chance to observe the elephants from morning until evening, as they bathe, are fed (you get to feed them), and let loose in the socialisation area (you are able to watch unseen from a treehouse high above). You'll also get the chance to watch one of the vets at the hospital giving a check-up to a pachyderm in the 'medical crush', a humane wooden structure that allows the carer to examine its feet and body without getting trodden on.

  For those with a jumbo-sized interest in elephants, it is possible to volunteer for six days or more, offering an even greater insight into the lives of the elephants and their mahouts, as well as the work of the centre. Those on the longer volunteer stay live in the dormitory accommodation and take meals with the project staff, offering a fascinating insight into the Lao lifestyle.

  Accommodation at the centre is in basic thatched bungalows that include some electricity after dark to power LED lights for reading. They include a mosquito net and a small verandah to relax on during the heat of the day. Bathroom facilities are shared but scrupulously clean.

  All meals and transport from and to Sainyabuli are included in all packages. The ECC has also teamed up with Sakura Tour to run minibuses from Luang Prabang to Sainyabuli. Meals are enjoyed at the welcoming restaurant, which offers a panoramic view of the lake and centre. The food is tasty Laotian cuisine and a range of snacks and drinks are available on demand. However, this is a long way from Vientiane, so should you be craving something special or have special dietary requirements, then plan ahead.

  The ECC is not your typical tourist elephant camp. It is run by people with a passion for the animals and the proceeds generated from your visit go towards funding the centre and other elephant conservation projects around the country. The only hope for Laos' dwindling elephant population, they are a bright light in a very grim storm.

  4Sleeping

  Villa SantisoukGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55781797; r US$5-15; aW)

  This uber-friendly place is a welcoming
joint to stay in. The new building includes rooms with stylishly presented towels, comfy new beds and sash curtains. In contrast, rooms in the old building are basic, with hard beds and hard-board ceilings. A simple terrace restaurant allows guests to contemplate the Mekong.

  Monsavan GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55771935, 084-212619; r from 130,000K; aW)

  This decent guesthouse on the main strip has a hammer-and-sickle flag out front and polished wood doors. Bamboo-walled rooms are clean affairs with TV, bathroom and tasteful fittings. Better still is the river-view bakery just across the street (open from 6.30am to 10pm) for fresh pain au chocolat (chocolate croissants), muffins, croissants, sandwiches and delicious shakes and coffee.

  oLuang Say LodgeLODGE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %084-212296; www.luangsay.com; r US$73)

  Principally for the use of passengers aboard the Luang Say Cruise, this traditional hardwood-and-rattan lodge has stylish bungalows in a pretty garden, overlooking a dramatic stretch of river, with fans and hot-water showers. A terrace restaurant overlooks the Mekong, for breakfast and dinner. Be warned: it's a steep and sometimes slippery climb from the jetty to the hotel.

  oD.P GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081-212624; operation@duangpasert.com; Main St; s/d US$40/45; aW)

  Run by a friendly Lao guy, this fresh new guesthouse outstrips the competition with mint-green and orange walls and above-average rooms with nice touches like bedrunners, air-con and cool tile floors and bathrooms. Just the shot in the arm the midrange sector needed. There's also a terrific restaurant to hang in.

  oMekong Riverside LodgeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55171068; www.mekongriversidelodge.com; r from US$45; W)

  Widescreen views of the river from romantically finished private-balcony bungalows, with stylish bathrooms, lacquered rattan walls, wood floors, fresh linen, mozzie nets and swan towel origami. Some rooms can be combined for families with an adjoining door. Breakfast is included at Khopchaideu opposite. Good value for what's on offer and lovely management.

  Sanctuary Pakbeng LodgeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %084-212304; www.sanctuaryhotelsandresorts.com/english/main/pakbeng; r US$120; aW)S

  Sanctuary Pakbeng Lodge has elegantly presented rooms with pretty interiors, Western-style bathrooms and minibars, all offering panoramic views. The bar-restaurant is a stylish spot for a sundown drink or a meal, and traditional Lao massage is also available. Part of the profits go towards funding a health-care initiative called Les Medicins du Pakbeng.

  5Eating

  oKhopchaideuINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55171068; mains 30,000K; h7am-10pm; v)

  Based at the Mekong Riverside Lodge, this place may serve some of the best Indian food you'll find in northern Laos. You can expect all the usual curries, as well as dishes like buffalo masala, executed with flair and sufficiently zesty spice. The English-speaking staff are charming and the view superb. They also dish up Lao and Western food.

  D.P BakeryBAKERY$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 30,000K; h6.30am-8.30pm; W)

  Fresh and bursting with doughy aromas, D.P is a great new spot for Western or healthy fruit breakfasts. And as well as mouthwatering pastries (get here early before they go), it makes good coffee, fruit shakes and ice cream. Spotlessly clean. You'll find it – surprise, surprise – in the same location as D.P Guesthouse.

  HashanINDIAN$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 30,000K; h7am-10pm; v)

  By night, its paper lanterns like glowing pupas hanging from the ceiling, this trusty old place pulls you in with its delicious aromas drifting out on to the street. Terrific Indian food – try the melt-in-your-mouth roti. Grab a table overlooking the river.

  8Information

  Internet Access

  Most guesthouses offer free wi-fi as part of their packages.

  Money

  Guesthouses change money at unimpressive rates. Thai baht are also widely used here.

  Lao Development Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; h24hr) Has an ATM in town near the redeveloped market. It's been known to run out of money at busy times.

  Tourist Information

  Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.oudomxay.info; h7am-noon & 2-9pm) Can arrange guides and has maps of the town.

  8Getting There & Away

  The tiny bus station is at the northernmost edge of town, with departures to Udomxai (40,000K, four hours) at 9am and 12.30pm. Once the new bridge is completed to the north of Pak Beng, there will also be daily transport to Muang Ngeun and the Thai border, plus Hongsa.

  The downriver slowboat ( GOOGLE MAP ) to Luang Prabang departs between 9am and 10am (110,000K, around eight hours) with request stops possible at Pak Tha and Tha Suang (for Hongsa). The slowboat for Huay Xai (110,000K, around nine hours) departs 8.30am.

  Speedboats ( GOOGLE MAP ) take around three hours to either Luang Prabang or Huay Xai, costing 180,000K per person assuming a crushed-full quota of six passengers (dangerous and highly uncomfortable, but cheaper than a 1,300,000K charter). Arriving by speedboat, local boys will generally offer to carry your bags for about 5000K (after some bargaining). If your bags are unwieldy this can prove money well spent, as when river levels are low you'll need to cross two planks and climb a steep sandbank to reach the road into town.

  Get tickets at the boat ticket office ( GOOGLE MAP ).

  Hongsa ຫົງສາ

  Pop 10,000 / %074

  Hongsa (ຫົງສາ), famous for elephants, is also the site of a massive new power station constructed by Thai investors and this is a major blight on the horizon. Still, it has been good for employment in the town and there is a mini-boom going on here. Hongsa is a logical break between Luang Prabang and Nan (Thailand, via Muang Ngeun). Its centre is a grid of newer constructions but the town's stream-ribboned edges (away from the power station) are backed by beautiful layered rice fields.

  The most characterful of Hongsa's several monasteries is Wat Simungkhun (ວັດສີມົງຄົນ, Wat Nya hdawn-dusk). Its hang song pa (initiation pavilion) is fashioned in attractive naive style while the archaic, muralled sǐm (ordination hall) sits on an oddly raised stone platform covering a large hole that is said to lead to the end of the world. It's 1km west of the centre towards Muang Ngeun, then 100m north after the first river bridge.

  Located behind the market, China Si Chuan Restaurant (%074-2666009; mains 30,000K; h7am-10pm) is a clean Chinese restaurant that packs them in with rice dishes, kung pao chicken and some interesting options such as 'smell chicken slices' and 'couples lung'.

  The ticket office (%020-5558711) beside the market opens at around 7.30am, with vehicles departing for Sainyabuli (70,000K, three hours) and Muang Ngeun (25,000K, 1¼ hours) as soon as a decent quota of guests has piled aboard (usually before 9am).

  Sainyabuli (Sayaboury) ໄຊຍະບູລີ

  Pop 28,000 / %074

  One of Laos' 'elephant capitals', Sainyabuli (ໄຊຍະບູລີ; variously spelt Sayaboury, Sayabouri, Sayabouli, Xaignabouri and Xayaboury) is a prosperous town backed to the east by an attractive range of high forested ridges. Making a self-conscious attempt to look urban, central Sainyabuli consists of overspaced avenues and showy new administrative buildings that are surprising for their scale but hardly attractions. Starting around the tourist office and continuing south you'll find an increasing proportion of attractive wooden or part-timber structures, some with languid settings among arching palm trees. Overall it's a friendly and entirely untouristed place, but numbers are unlikely to increase dramatically with new roads, as most visitors will be heading directly to the Elephant Conservation Center.

  Sainyabuli (Sayaboury)

  1Sights

  1Wat SibounheuangB3

  2Wat SisavangvongA1

  4Sleeping

  3Alooncheer HotelA2

  4Santiphap GuesthouseA1

  5Eating

  5Sainamhoung RestaurantB1 />
  6Drinking & Nightlife

  6Beer GardensB1

  1Sights

  Wat SibounheuangBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  (ວັດສີບູນເຮືອງ MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  Wat Sibounheuang, the town's most evocative monastery, sports a lopsided gilded stupa and reclining Buddha in a delightful garden setting where the bare-brick ruins of the tiny original sǐm are reckoned to be from the early 14th century. The 'new' sǐm is covered in murals, including anti-adultery scenes in a style reminiscent of Matisse.

  This building covers a mysterious 'hole' traditionally associated with singkhone spirit-ghosts who are placated in the Phaveth Festival (the 13th to the 15th day of the third Lao month) leading up to the February full moon.

  Nam TienLAKE

  (ນ້ຳຕຽນ )

  To fully appreciate the charm of Sainyabuli's setting, drive 9km southwest to the Nam Tien reservoir-lake, access point for the Elephant Conservation Center. A restaurant here is perched above the dam, offering views across emerald rice paddies and wooded slopes towards a western horizon where the Pak Kimin and Pak Xang ridges overlap.

  The 3km asphalt road to Nam Tien branches west off the Pak Lai road 500m before the southern bus station, just before a bridge (6.5km from central Sainyabuli).

  Wat SisavangvongBUDDHIST TEMPLE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  More central than the other wats in Sainyabuli, Wat Sisavangvong was reportedly built by King Sisavang Vong on an older temple site.