Lonely Planet Laos
Page 23
Things picked up in the 1990s and in recent years Vientiane has seen a relative explosion of construction, road redevelopment and vehicular traffic, much of it financed by China, the country that will likely have the most significant influence on Vientiane's future.
Vientiane
1Top Sights
1COPE Visitor CentreG4
2PatuxaiG2
1Sights
3Wat Si MuangF4
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Bee Bee FitnessF7
5Vientiane Yoga StudioG2
Villa LaoD2
6Wat Si AmphonG6
4Sleeping
7Green Park Boutique HotelG4
8Hotel Beau Rivage MekongD3
9Mandala Boutique HotelF4
10S Park Design HotelB2
11Villa LaoD2
12Villa ManolyF4
5Eating
13Cafe NomadG3
14Delhi DurbarG3
15Doi Ka NoiH2
16Kung's Cafe LaoF4
17Once Upon a TimeH4
18Pizza Da Roby (PDR)D2
19PVOG3
20Senglao CafeH2
21Suntara RestaurantF4
6Drinking & Nightlife
22@ HomeC2
23Highland BarC2
24Kong ViewB2
25Sea Sunset BarH4
26Spirit HouseC2
3Entertainment
27National CircusE1
Transport
Air AsiaA1
China Eastern AirlinesC2
Lao AirlinesA1
Lao SkywayA1
SixtA1
28Thai Airways InternationalC2
29Wattay International AirportA1
1Sights
The bulk of sights are concentrated in a small area in the centre of the city. With the exception of Xieng Khuan (Buddha Park), all sights are easily reached by bicycle and, in most cases, on foot. If you're interested in visiting the city's minor temples, consider tackling our bicycle tour. Most wats welcome visitors after the monks have collected alms in the morning until about 6pm.
oCOPE Visitor CentreCULTURAL CENTRE
(ສູນຟື້ນຟູຄົນພິການແຫ່ງຊາດ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-218427; www.copelaos.org; Th Khu Vieng; donations welcome; h9am-6pm)F
COPE (Cooperative Orthotic & Prosthetic Enterprise) is the main source of artificial limbs, walking aids and wheelchairs in Laos. Its excellent Visitor Centre, part of the organisation's National Rehabilitation Centre, offers myriad interesting and informative multimedia exhibits about prosthetics and the unexploded ordnance (UXO) that make them necessary.
Wat Si SaketBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(ວັດສີສະເກດ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Th Lan Xang & Th Setthathirath; 5000K; h8am-noon & 1-4pm, closed public holidays)
Built between 1819 and 1824 by Chao Anou, Wat Si Saket is believed to be Vientiane’s oldest surviving wat. And it is starting to show, as this beautiful temple is in need of a facelift. Along the western side of the cloister is a pile of Buddhas that were damaged during the 1828 Siamese-Lao war.
Haw Pha KaeoMUSEUM
(ຫໍພະແກ້ວ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Setthathirath; 5000K; h8am-noon & 1-4pm)
Once a royal temple built specifically to house the famed Emerald Buddha, Haw Pha Kaeo is today a national museum of religious art. It is about 100m southeast of Wat Si Saket. The main hall contains a mix of Khmer carvings, Laotian Buddhas and relics from temples around town.
oPatuxaiMONUMENT
(ປະຕູໄຊ, Victory Monument MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Lan Xang; 3000K; h8am-5pm)
Vientiane's Arc de Triomphe replica is a slightly incongruous sight, dominating the commercial district around Th Lan Xang. Officially called 'Victory Monument' and commemorating the Lao who died in prerevolutionary wars, it was built in 1969 with cement donated by the USA intended for the construction of a new airport. Climb to the summit for panoramic views over Vientiane.
Central Vientiane
1Sights
1Haw Pha KaeoF5
2Lao National MuseumD2
3Presidential PalaceE5
4That DamF3
5Wat ChanthabuliB3
6Wat In PaengA2
7Wat MixaiC3
8Wat Ong Teu MahawihanB3
9Wat Si SaketE4
2Activities, Courses & Tours
10Herbal SaunaB3
11Lao Bowling CentreE1
12OasisB4
13Tangerine Garden SpaB3
4Sleeping
14Ansara HôtelB3
15Auberge Sala InpengA3
16Avalon B & BC2
17Best Western VientianeB4
18Champa Garden HotelC3
19City InnE2
20Day Inn HotelE2
21Dhavara Boutique HotelC3
22Dream Home Hostel 2A2
23Hotel KhamvongsaA3
24Intercity HotelA4
25Lane Xang HotelD4
26Lani's House by the PondB2
27Lao Orchid HotelA3
28Lao Plaza HotelD2
29Lao Silk HotelB3
30Le Luxe Boutique HotelB3
31Lucky BackpackerC4
32LV City Riverine HotelB4
33Manorom Boutique HotelC2
34Mixay Paradise GuesthouseC3
35Orange Backpacker HostelA2
36Phonepaseuth Guest HouseD3
37Salana Boutique HotelB3
38Settha Palace HotelE1
39Souphaphone GuesthouseB3
Sport GuesthouseC3
40Syri 1 Guest HouseD1
41Vayakorn InnC3
42Vientiane Backpackers HostelC3
Vientiane Garden HotelA2
5Eating
43AcquaB3
44AmphoneC3
45Baguette & Pâté VendorD3
46Ban Anou Night MarketC1
Benoni CaféD4
47Bistrot 22G4
48Common Ground CaféA3
49Croissant d'OrC3
Han Sam Euay NongA3
50Han Ton PhaiE2
51iPhoB3
52IstanbulB3
53Jamil Zahid Punjab RestaurantA1
54JoMa Bakery CaféD4
55Khambang Lao Food RestaurantA3
56Khop Chai DeuD3
57Korean RestaurantB2
58La Cag du CoqC2
59La SignatureB3
60La TerrasseC3
61L'Adresse de TinayB3
62Lao KitchenC2
63Le BannetonC3
64Le SilapaB2
65Le VendômeA3
66Little HanoiB4
67Makphet RestaurantA3
68Naked EspressoC4
69Noy's Fruit HeavenC2
OsakaC3
70OtafukuC2
71ParadIceG2
72Phimphone MarketD4
73PimentónC3
74Pricco CafeC3
75Sputnik BurgerD3
76Taj Mahal RestaurantC3
77Temple View CafeC2
78That Dam NoodleE3
79Vieng SawanB2
80XayohC2
6Drinking & Nightlife
81Bor Pen YangA4
82CCC BarA2
83Chokdee CafeC4
Jazzy BrickD3
Khop Chai DeuD3
84Le TrioD3
3Entertainment
85Anou CabaretB2
86Centre Culturel et de Coopération LinguistiqueG2
87Lao National Culture HallC3
88Lao National Opera TheatreC1
89Wind WestA2
7Shopping
90Carol Cassidy Lao TextilesC3
91Dee Traditional Antique TextilesC3
92Indochina HandicraftsB3
93Kanchana BoutiqueE3
94Khampan Lao HandicraftC4
95Monument BooksC3
96Night MarketB4
97Oriental BookshopB3
98Satri LaoC3
99Talat SaoG3
100Treasures of AsiaC3
101True ColourC3
102T'Shop Lai GalleryB3
103Vins de FranceE3
8Information
104ANZG3
105Bank of AyudhyaG2
106Banque pour le Commerce Extérieur LaoC4
107Green DiscoveryD3
108Immigration OfficeG2
109Internet CafeD3
110Joint Development BankG2
111Krung Thai BankE4
112Krung Thai Exchange BoothC4
113Lao-Viet BankH2
114Lin Travel ServiceB1
Oriental Bookshop InternetB3
115Poppy's Pharmacy & BeautyB2
116Siam Commercial BankF3
117Thai Military BankB1
Transport
AvisC3
Bangkok AirwaysD2
118First-One Motorbike RentalB4
Lao BikeB2
119Mixay Bike 2A4
120Talat Sao Bus StationG4
121Thai-Lao International BusH4
Vietnam AirlinesD2
Lao National MuseumMUSEUM
(ພິພິດທະພັນປະຫວັດສາດແຫ່ງຊາດລາວ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-212461; Th Samsènethai; 10,000K; h8am-noon & 1-4pm)
Unfortunately, this charming French-era building, flanked by cherry blossom and magnolia trees, is due to be knocked down and moved to newer premises. It was formerly known as the Lao Revolutionary Museum, and much of its collection retains an unshakeable revolutionary zeal.
Wat Si MuangBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(ວັດສີເມືອງ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Th Setthathirath, Th Samsènethai & Th Tha Deua; h6am-7pm, special days to 10pm)F
The most frequently used grounds in Vientiane are those of Wat Si Muang, the site of the lák méuang (city pillar), which is considered the home of the guardian spirit of Vientiane. The large sǐm (ordination hall; destroyed in 1828 and rebuilt in 1915) was constructed around the lák méuang, and consists of two halls.
The large entry hall features a copy of the Pha Kaeo (Emerald Buddha), and a much smaller, rather melted-looking seated stone Buddha that allegedly survived the 1828 inferno. Locals believe it has the power to grant wishes or answer troubling questions, and the practice is to lift it off the pillow three times while mentally phrasing a question or request. If your request is granted, then you are supposed to return later with an offering of bananas, green coconuts, flowers, incense and candles (usually two of each).
The pillar itself is located in the rear hall, and is believed to date from the Khmer period, indicating the site has been used for religious purposes for more than 1000 years. Today it is wrapped in sacred cloth, and in front of it is a carved wooden stele with a seated Buddha in relief.
Behind the sǐm is a crumbling laterite jęhdii (stupa), almost certainly of Khmer origin. Devotees deposit broken deity images and pottery around the stupa's base so the spirits of the stupa will 'heal' the bad luck created by the breaking of these items. In front of the sǐm is a little public park with a statue of King Sisavang Vong (1904–59).
Kaysone Phomivan MemorialMUSEUM
(ຫໍພິພິດທະພັນແລະອະນຸສາວລີໄກສອນພົມວິຫານ GOOGLE MAP ; Km 6, Silivay Village; 5000K; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Tue-Sun)
In contrast to the huge Kaysone Phomvihane Museum, Kaysone's house is a remarkably modest affair, yet fascinating both because of its history and that it remains virtually untouched since the great man died in 1992. A Lao People's Revolutionary Party (LPRP) guide will show you through the house, making for a remarkably good-value experience.
The house is inside the former USAID/CIA compound, a self-contained headquarters known as 'Six Klicks City' because of its location 6km from central Vientiane. It once featured bars, restaurants, tennis courts, swimming pools, a commissary and assorted offices from where the Secret War was orchestrated. During the 1975 takeover of Vientiane, Pathet Lao forces ejected the Americans and occupied the compound. Kaysone lived here until his death.
The house includes Kaysone's half-empty bottles of scotch, tacky souvenirs from the Eastern bloc, white running shoes, notepads and original Kelvinator air-conditioners. Even the winter coats he wore on visits to Moscow remain neatly hanging in the wardrobe.
Kaysone's house can be tricky to find, so it's easiest to backtrack from the nearby Kaysone Phomvihane Museum (ຫໍພິພິດທະພັນແລະອະນຸສາວລີໄກສອນພົມວິຫານ GOOGLE MAP ; Km 6, Rte 13 South; 5000K; hmuseum 8am-noon & 1-4pm Tue-Sun). Head back towards the city centre and turn right at the first set of traffic lights, continuing about 1km until you see the sign on your right that says 'Mémorial du Président Kaysone Phomvihane'. Alternatively, a tuk-tuk will cost around 40,000K from the centre.
oPha That LuangBUDDHIST STUPA
(ພະທາດຫລວງ, Great Sacred Reliquary, Great Stupa GOOGLE MAP ; Th That Luang; 5000K, rental of long skirt to enter temple 5000K; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Tue-Sun)
Svelte and golden Pha That Luang is the most important national monument in Laos; a symbol of Buddhist religion and Lao sovereignty. Legend has it that Ashokan missionaries from India erected a tâht (stupa) here to enclose a piece of Buddha's breastbone as early as the 3rd century BC. Pha That Luang is about 4km northeast of the city centre.
Lao Textile MuseumMUSEUM
(ພິພິດທະພັນຜ້າໄໝບູຮານລາວ GOOGLE MAP ; %030-5727423; 30,000K; h10am-4pm)
What began as a private museum, established by the family that runs Kanchana Boutique, has subsequently become something of a Lao cultural centre. The emphasis at this leafy traditional Lao compound is on textiles. There is a wooden house filled with looms and antique Lao textiles representing several ethnic groups, plus the museum offers courses in weaving and dyeing.
The museum is located about 3km northeast of the National Circus (Hong Kanyasin). We do not suggest visiting without first making a reservation at Kanchana Boutique, where you can also pick up a map. Otherwise you may find the place closed.
Xieng KhuanMUSEUM
(ຊຽງຂວັນ, Suan Phut, Buddha Park GOOGLE MAP ; 5000K, camera 3000K; h8am-4.30pm)
Located 25km southeast of central Vientiane, eccentric Xieng Khuan, aka Buddha Park, thrills with other-worldly Buddhist and Hindu sculptures, and was designed and built in 1958 by Luang Pu, a yogi-priest-shaman who merged Hindu and Buddhist philosophy, mythology and iconography into a cryptic whole. Bus number 14 (8000K, one hour, 24km) leaves Talat Sao Bus Station every 15 minutes for Xieng Khuan. Alternatively, charter a tuk-tuk (200,000K return).
Wat ChanthabuliBUDDHIST TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Fa Ngoum)
This beautiful riverside wat was built in the 16th century, destroyed during the Siamese invasion of 1828 and later fully restored to its present glory. It's notable for its enormous bronze seated Buddha.
Wat MixaiBUDDHIST TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Setthathirath)F
One of a cluster of temples on the main drag, known for its Bangkok-style sǐm and heavy gates, which are flanked by two nyak (guardian giants).
Wat Ong Teu MahawihanBUDDHIST TEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Setthathirath)F
This temple is one of the most important in Laos. It was originally built in the mid-16th century by King Setthathirat and is believed to occupy a site first used for religious purposes in the 3rd century. However, like almost every other temple in Vientiane it was destroyed in later wars with the Siamese, then rebuilt in the 20th century.
That DamMONUMENT
(Black Stupa; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Bartholomie)
That Dam sits on a quiet roundabout near the centre of Vientiane. Legend has it that this stupa was once coated in a layer of gold. The gold is said to have been carted off by the Siamese during their pillaging of 1828, after which the stupa took the ‘black’ sobriquet in memory of the dastardly act.
VIEWING PHA THAT LUANG
Each level of Pha That Luang has different architectural
features in which Buddhist doctrine is encoded; visitors are supposed to contemplate the meaning of these features as they walk around. The first level is an approximately square base measuring 68m by 69m that supports 323 sĕe máh (ordination stones). It represents the material world, and also features four arched hŏr wái (prayer halls), one on each side, with short stairways leading to them and beyond to the second level.
The second level is 48m by 48m and is surrounded by 120 lotus petals. There are 288 sĕe máh on this level, as well as 30 small stupas symbolising the 30 Buddhist perfections (báhlamée săhm-síp tat), beginning with alms-giving and ending with equanimity.
Arched gates again lead to the next level, a 30m by 30m square. The tall central stupa, which has a brick core that has been stuccoed over, is supported here by a bowl-shaped base reminiscent of India's first Buddhist stupa at Sanchi. At the top of this mound the superstructure, surrounded by lotus petals, begins.
The curvilinear, four-sided spire resembles an elongated lotus bud and is said to symbolise the growth of a lotus from a seed in a muddy lake bottom to a bloom over the lake's surface, a metaphor for human advancement from ignorance to enlightenment in Buddhism. The entire tâht was regilded in 1995 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Lao People's Democratic Republic (PDR), and is crowned by a stylised banana flower and parasol. From ground to pinnacle, Pha That Luang is 45m tall.
VIENTIANE IN...
TWO DAYS
Start with a coffee and croissant at Le Banneton before embarking on the Monument to Mekong cycling tour, taking you through most of Vientiane's main sights, including Wat Si Saket, Haw Pha Kaeo and Talat Sao. Top off your day with riverside cocktails at Spirit House. On day two consider getting some motorised wheels and leaving the city centre to visit the concrete Buddhas and Hindu deities at Xieng Khuan. On the way back stop at Pha That Luang for great afternoon photos. Enjoy a fine French dinner at Le Silapa.