Lonely Planet Laos
Page 27
Other popular noodles include mii (traditional Chinese egg noodle), particularly prevalent in the unofficial Chinatown area bounded by Th Hengboun, Th Chao Anou, Th Khounboulom and the western end of Th Samsènethai, and bǎn kǔan (Lao for bánh cuôn), a freshly steamed rice noodle filled with minced pork, mushrooms and carrots, a Vietnamese speciality that is popular in Laos. Look for it in the mornings near the intersection of Th Chao Anou and Th Hengboun.
Around Vientiane
oDoi Ka NoiLAOTIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55898959; 242 Sapang Mor; mains 25,000-50,000K; h10am-2.30pm Tues-Thurs, 10am-9pm Fri-Sun; W)
An authentic Lao restaurant near That Luang, this is the place to spice up your life. The menu changes almost daily and focuses on home recipes and seasonal ingredients. Sample dishes include fish curry with hummingbird-tree flowers and bamboo curry with mushrooms. Co-owned by a photographer, there are some stunning food shots adorning the walls.
Cafe NomadCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Phonsay; mains 25,000-50,000K; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; aW)
Right near the Thai consulate, this little gem has original artwork on the mustard-coloured walls, whirring fans, various delicious panini and perhaps the best brownies in town. Flavoursome coffee and friendly staff. Popular with expats.
ParadIceFRENCH$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-312836; Th Lan Xang; mains 35,000-50,000K; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; W)
On the grounds of the Institut Français, this airy, comfortable cafe is a real oasis in which to sit and read with a coffee (and quick wi-fi). There's French news on the tube and a range of sandwiches and cakes to keep you quiet. Don't miss the delicious homemade ice creams and chocolates.
Ban Anou Night MarketLAOTIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; meals 10,000-20,000K; h5-10pm)
Setting up on a small street off the north end of Th Chao Anou every evening, this atmospheric open-air market dishes up Lao cuisine, from grilled meats to chilli-based dips with vegetables and sticky rice.
oSenglao CafeFUSION$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-5880588; mains 30,000-300,000K; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat; aW)
Named after a now-defunct cinema in the centre of town, this contemporary restaurant has a cinematic theme and restored leather chairs from the old movie hall. The fusion menu is ambitious but executed with some panache and includes everything from fusion squid-ink pasta with scallops to stone-baked pizzas. Films are shown in the garden at weekends.
Delhi DurbarINDIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-410013; www.delhidurbarlaos.com; Th Phonsay; mains 25,000-90,000K; h11am-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; aWv)
One of the smarter Indian restauarants in town, with a menu that includes chicken, mutton and seafood classics, plus a generous selection of vegetarian dishes. A full spread with a main, side, rice and breads will set you back about 100,000K.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Vientiane is no longer the illicit pleasure palace it once was. Nowadays, brothels are strictly prohibited and Beerlao has replaced opium as the nightly drug of choice. Most of the bars, restaurants and discos close by 11.30pm or midnight, apart from a few late-night stragglers.
DJs have only recently caught on in Vientiane. Karaoke is popular, as are live-music performances of international songs or Thai classics.
oSpirit HouseCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-262530; Th Fa Ngoum; cocktails 40,000-60,000K; h7am-11pm; W)
This traditional Lao house facing the Mekong has a well-stocked bar with enough cocktails on the menu to keep a roué rolling along. A chilled soundtrack complements the dark woods and comfy couches of its stylish interior. Hit the exceptionally happy hours from 5pm to 7pm.
oBor Pen YangBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-27873965; Th Fa Ngoum; h10am-midnight; W)
Overlooking mother Mekong, a cast of locals, expats, bar girls and travellers assembles at this tin-roofed, wood-raftered watering hole to gaze at the sunset over nearby Thailand. Western tunes, pool tables and a huge bar to drape yourself over, as well as international football and rugby on large flat-screen TVs.
Chokdee CafeBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-263847; www.chokdeecafe.com; Th Fa Ngoum; h7am-11pm; W)
A Belgian bar and restaurant on the riverfront, Chokdee offers one of the best selections of Belgian brews in Asia with around 70 varieties to sample. Keep the flag flying with a bucket of moules (mussels) and frites (French fries), with 20 original sauces available to douse them in.
Khop Chai DeuBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-223022; www.inthira.com; Th Setthathirath; h7am-midnight)
KCD boasts low-lit interiors and a sophisticated drinks list, plus activities like speed dating and women's arm wrestling. On the 3rd floor there's a super-slick bar with great views. A popular place for draught Beerlao, and there's plenty of good food to go with it.
Sea Sunset BarCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-264193; Th Dong Palan; h10.30am-11.30pm; W)
Set in the suburbs of popular Dong Palan, Sea Sunset Bar offers one of the most extensive cocktail menus in this neck of the woods. It also offers decent food, including popular burgers and a 65,000K buffet on Monday and Tuesday. Cocktails are 50% off during a generous happy hour on Saturdays.
@ HomeCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55444555; Th Souphanouvong; h9pm-1am)
There are a few clubs on the road to the airport and the best known of the bunch is the heavy-duty techno club @ Home. Don't come expecting conversation as the volume is permanently set to 11, but the drinks flow and a young crowd dances until the DJ stops.
CCC BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55448686; Th Souphanouvong; h7pm-late)
The most popular gay bar in town, this place draws a convivial crowd to its small bar. It pushes it up a gear at weekends with a cabaret show and draws a mixed crowd from 1am as one of the only late, late places in the capital.
Le TrioCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22553552; Th Setthathirath; h8am-4pm; W)
Le Trio roasts its own coffee and is one of the top hang-outs for caffeine cravers in Vientiane. As well as original coffees, it also offers fragrant herbal teas, juices and blends, plus some creative cocktails and desserts.
Scorpion WingsBAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-5945367; Th Dongnasok; h5-11pm; W)
A self-proclaimed dive bar run by a long-term American resident, this is the place for cheap drinks far from the madding crowd. Craft beers are available, but the signature dish is the scorpion wings – barbecued chicken wings that get progressively hotter until the sting kicks in.
Highland BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-251206; Th Fa Ngoum; h11am-11pm; W)
Located on a breezy stretch of the Mekong River to the west of the city centre, Highland Bar is a great spot to catch your favourite sporting action, from rugby union to Aussie rules and everything in between. There is a solid bar menu and the drinks are usually flowing early evenings and all weekend.
Kong ViewBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-520522; off Th Luang Prabang; h11am-midnight)
The stylish balcony here, suspended over a quiet section of the Mekong, functions equally well as a beer garden or dinner destination (dishes 25,000K to 200,000K), and is a great spot for a sundowner on the way to or from the airport.
Jazzy BrickBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-212489; Th Setthathirath; h7pm-late; W)
With its stylish, exposed-brick interior adorned in old jazz posters, and Coltrane sliding through the low-lit atmosphere, this place is perfect for an upscale evening on the tiles. Occasional live Latin and bossa nova, and enough cocktails on the menu to keep a connoisseur on their toes.
3Entertainment
Cinema
Centre Culturel et de Coopération LinguistiqueCINEMA
(French Cultural Centre; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-215764; www.ambafrance-laos.org; Th Lan Xang; entry free, cinema 10,000K; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
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br /> Dance, art exhibitions, literary discussions and live music all take place in this Gallic hive of cultural activity. As well as cult French films – shown weekends at 3pm (kids) and 6.30pm (adults) – the centre also offers French and Lao language lessons.
Live Music
Wind WestLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-265777; h6pm-1am)
A roadhouse-style bar and restaurant, Wind West has live Lao and Western rock music most nights. The music usually starts about 9pm and finishes around 1pm. Depending on the night it can be heaving, or completely dead, but the interior, hung with 10-gallon hats, antlers and wooden Native American statues, lends the place a folksy atmosphere.
Anou CabaretLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-213630; cnr Th Hengboun & Th Chao Anou; h8pm-midnight)
On the ground floor of the Anou Paradise Hotel, the cabaret has been swinging along here for years. It's a funny place, with old crooners and a palpable 1960s feel.
TRADITIONAL MUSIC & DANCING
Six types of traditional Lao dance can be seen nightly from 7.30pm to 11pm in the Lane Xang Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-214100; www.lanexanghotel.com.la; Th Fa Ngoum; s 400,000-600,000K, d 500,000-800,000K, ste 1,500,000K; aiWs). The Lao National Culture Hall ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Samsènethai) also hosts similar performances on occasions, but with no publicly available schedule of events you'll need to keep a close eye on the Vientiane Times for announcements.
Performing Arts
Lao National Opera TheatreTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-26000; Th Khounboulom; h7-8.30pm Tue, Thu & Sat)
This state-sponsored performance venue features a smorgasbord of Lao entertainment ranging from self-proclaimed 'Lao oldies' to Lao boxing and traditional performances of Pha Lak Pha Lam, the Lao version of the Indian epic the Ramayana.
National CircusPERFORMING ARTS
(Hong Kanyasin; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Thong Khan Kham; c)
The old 'Russian Circus' established in the 1980s is now known as Hong Kanyasin. It performs from time to time in this National Circus venue, in the north of town. It has mainly acrobatic performances plus clowns. Check for dates in the Vientiane Times.
7Shopping
oT'Shop Lai GalleryCOSMETICS, HOMEWARES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-223178; www.laococo.com/tshoplai.htm; off Th In Paeng; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)S
Vientiane's finest shop. Imagine a melange of aromas: coconut, aloe vera, honey, frangipani and magnolia, all of them emanating from body oils, soaps, sprays, perfumes and lip balms, plus bangles, prints, fountain pens and more. These wonderful products are made with sustainable, locally sourced products by disadvantaged women who make up the Les Artisans Lao cooperative.
Carol Cassidy Lao TextilesARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-212123; www.laotextiles.com; 84-86 Th Nokèokoummane; h8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat, or by appointment)
Lao Textiles sells high-end contemporary, original-design fabrics inspired by generations-old Lao weaving patterns, motifs and techniques. The American designer, Carol Cassidy, employs Lao weavers who work out the back of the attractive old French-Lao house. Internationally known, with prices to match.
Night MarketMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Fa Ngoum; h6-10.30pm)
Vientiane's night market lights up the riverfront with a selection of stalls hawking handicrafts and T-shirts. It's not quite the atmosphere of Luang Prabang's, but nonetheless a good place to browse and hone your haggling skills.
Dee Traditional Antique TextilesARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55519908; khamtanh44@hotmail.com; Th Setthathirath; h8am-9pm)
It might not look much from the outside but within this chilled shop, stuffed from floor to ceiling with an array of fine silk scarves and Akha tapestries, there are great bargains to be found. The best-value quality scarves on the block.
Indochina HandicraftsARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-223528; Th Setthathirath; h10am-7pm)
Vientiane's version of the Old Curiosity Shop, this enchanting den of Buddha statuary sells antique Ho Chi Minh and Mao busts, Russian wristwatches, communist memorabilia, Matchbox cars, medals, snuff boxes and vintage serving trays. It's a visit that shouldn't be missed.
Oriental BookshopBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-215352; 121 Th Chao Anou; h10am-8pm)
Mr Ngo stocks a decent selection of second-hand novels, postcards and stamps, and also a comprehensive range of books on Lao ethnicity. Coffee and internet (5000K per hour) are also available.
Treasures of AsiaART
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-222236; 86/7 Th Setthathirath; hnoon-7pm Mon-Fri)
This tiny gallery holds the original works of established Lao artists, many of whom are featured in the book Lao Contemporary Art, also available here.
Vins de FranceWINE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-217700; 354 Th Samsènethai; h8am-8pm)
Vins de France (the sign says 'Baràvin') is one of the better French wine cellars in Southeast Asia. Even if you don't like wine, it's worth popping in for a look at a place so completely out of character with its surrounds. If you do like wine, the US$3 degustation might be a wise investment.
True ColourARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-214410; Th Setthathirath; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat)S
This store sells a wide spectrum of hand-spun silk shawls and wall hangings, as well as vividly coloured Hmong handbags and pincushions. All products are made in the affiliated Houey Hong Vocational Training Center for Women, which offers daily weaving courses.
Talat SaoMARKET
(Morning Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Th Lan Xang; h7am-5pm)
A once-memorable Vientiane shopping experience has sadly undergone a facelift; two-thirds of its world of stalls selling opium pipes, jewellery and traditional antiques have been ripped down and replaced with a eunuch of a modern mall. The remaining building's fabric merchants are hanging by a thread.
Monument BooksBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 124 Th Nokèokoummane; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)
A great one-stop shop for glossy magazines and a tasteful range of modern classic novels, plus travel guides, thrillers and lush pictorials on Laos.
Satri LaoGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-244384; Th Setthathirath; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun)
Set across three fragrant floors, this Aladdin's cave of an emporium hawks high-quality jewellery, Hmong handbags, pillowcases, chemises, Tintin lacquer paintings, Buddha statuary and a whole lot more. It's expensive, but perfect for some last-minute shopping.
Kanchana BoutiqueARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-213467; 102 Th Chanthakoummane; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat)
This shop carries what is possibly the most upscale selection of Lao silk in town (the most expensive designs, some of which sell for several thousand US dollars, are kept in an adjacent room). The friendly owners can arrange a visit to their Lao Textile Museum, as well as lessons in weaving and dyeing.
Khampan Lao HandicraftARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %021-222000; Th Nokèokoummane; h8am-9pm)
Khampan Lao Handicraft has textiles from the Sam Neua area, in the far northeast of Laos, at very reasonable prices and is worth a look.
TEXTILES & CLOTHING
Downtown Vientiane is littered with stores selling textiles. Th Nokèokoummane is the epicentre, but the city's main market, Talat Sao, is also a good place to buy fabrics. You'll find antiques as well as modern fabrics, plus utilitarian items such as shoulder bags (some artfully constructed around squares of antique fabric), cushions and pillows.
To see Lao weaving in action, seek out the weaving district of Ban Nong Buathong, northeast of the town centre in Muang Chanthabuli. About 20 families (many originally from Sam Neua in Hua Phan Province) live and work here, including a couple of households that sell textiles directly to the public.
8Orientation
Vientiane curves along the Mekong River following a meandering northwest–southeast axis, with the central district of Muang Chanthabuli at the centre of the bend. Most of the government offices, hotels, restaurants and historic temples are located in Chanthabuli, near the river. Some old French colonial buildings and Vietnamese-Chinese shophouses remain, set alongside newer structures built according to the rather boxy social realist school of architecture.
Wattay International Airport is around 4km northwest of the centre. The Northern Bus Station, where long-distance services to points north begin and end, is about 2km northwest of the airport. The Southern Bus Station deals with most services heading south and is 9km northeast of the centre on Rte 13. The border with Thailand at the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge is 19km southeast of the city.
Street signs are limited to major roads and the central, more touristy part of town. Where they do exist, the English and French designations vary (eg route, rue, road and avenue) but the Lao script always reads Thanon (Th). Therefore, when asking directions it's always best to just use Thanon.